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Los Angeles Times
08-06-2025
- Politics
- Los Angeles Times
How ‘Cali' became a slur among Vietnam's growing army of nationalists
HANOI, Vietnam — Last fall, Vietnam opened a sprawling new military museum here, and among thousands of artifacts in the four-story building and a courtyard filled with tanks and aircrafts, one exhibit quickly became the star attraction: the flag of South Vietnam. The government regards the yellow banner with three red stripes as a sign of resistance to the communist regime, violating laws about inciting dissent. With few exceptions, it is not displayed. Reactions to the rare sighting soon went viral. Young visitors at the Vietnam Military History Museum posted photos of themselves next to the flag with deep frowns, thumbs down or middle fingers raised. As the photos drew unwanted attention, the flag was unpinned from a wall and folded within a display case. Social media content featuring rude hand gestures was scrubbed from the internet. But the phenomenon persisted. Several weeks ago, schoolchildren who were on tour made it a point to check out the flag. Every few minutes, a new group crowded around the banner — also known online as the 'Cali' flag — holding up middle fingers or crossing their hands to form an 'X.' In Vietnam, Cali — sometimes written as 'kali' — has long been a reference to the Vietnamese diaspora in California, where many Vietnamese-Americans still fly the flag of the south to represent the fight against communism and the nation they lost with the war. People who live in Vietnam, however, are more likely to view it as a symbol of American imperialism, and as nationalistic sentiment here has swelled in recent years, evoking the Golden State has become a shorthand of sorts to criticize those opponents. 'They use that as a label against anyone who disagrees with state policy,' says Nguyen Khac Giang, a research fellow at Singapore's Yusof Ishak Institute, known for its political and socioeconomic research on Southeast Asia. There have been other signs of growing nationalism in the past year, often in response to perceptions of American influence. In addition to animosity toward the 'Cali' flag, a U.S.-backed university in Ho Chi Minh City was attacked over suspicions of foreign interference. And an aspiring Vietnamese pop star who'd been a contestant on 'American Idol' was savaged on social media last summer after footage of her singing at the U.S. memorial service of an anti-communist activist surfaced. Vietnamese nationalism, Giang said, is bolstered at every level by the country's one-party rule. The government controls education and public media; independent journalists and bloggers who have criticized the government have been imprisoned. In addition, the party's ability to influence social media narratives has improved over the last several years, particularly among the nation's youth. Since 2017, Vietnamese authorities have employed thousands of cyber troops to police content online, forming a military unit under the defense ministry known as Force 47. In 2018, the country passed a cybersecurity law that enabled it to demand social media platforms take down any content that it deems anti-state. The resulting one-sided discourse means that views that don't align with official propaganda often draw harassment and ostracism. At times, the government has also used that power to try and rein in nationalism when it grows too extreme — though banning posts about the South Vietnam flag did little to quell enthusiasm at the museum. Some visitors who were making hand signs said they were expressing their disapproval of a regime that, they'd been taught, oppressed Vietnamese people. One teenager unfurled and held up the national flag — red with a yellow star — for a photo. 'It's hard to say if I agree or disagree with the rude gestures,' said Dang Thi Bich Hanh, a 25-year-old coffee shop manager who was among the visitors. 'Those young people's gestures were not quite right, but I think they reflect their feelings when looking at the flag and thinking about that part of history and what previous generations had to endure.' Before she left, she took a selfie with her middle finger raised to the folded cloth. ::: Five years ago, when a student from a rural region of the Mekong Delta earned a full scholarship to an international university in Ho Chi Minh City, it seemed like a dream come true. But last August, when the school was caught up in the growing wave of nationalism, he began to worry that his association with Fulbright University Vietnam could affect his safety and his future. 'I was scared,' said the recent graduate, who requested anonymity for fear of retribution. He had just started a new job in education and avoided mentioning his alma mater to coworkers and wearing shirts marked with the school name. 'You had all kinds of narratives. Especially with the disinformation spreading at the time, it had some negative impacts on my mental health.' The attacks included allegations that Fulbright, which opened in 2016 with partial funding from the U.S. government, was cultivating Western liberal and democratic values that could undermine the Vietnamese government. Nationalists criticized any possible hint of anti-communist leanings at the school, such as not prominently displaying the Vietnamese flag at commencement. Even last year's graduation slogan, 'Fearless,' sparked suspicions that students could be plotting a political movement. 'You are seeing new heights of nationalism for sure, and it's hard to measure,' said Vu Minh Hoang, a diplomatic historian and professor at the university. Hoang said the online allegations — none of which were true — led to threats of violence against the university, and there was talk that some parents withdrew their children because of them. Several students said their affiliation drew hate speech from strangers and distrustful questions from family members and employers. Academics said the Vietnamese government likely acted quickly to shut down the backlash against Fulbright in order to prevent the anti-American sentiment from harming its ties with the U.S., its largest trade partner. But some of the original accusations were propagated by state media and bots associated with the Ministry of Defense, hinting at a schism within the party. Hoang said that while nationalism is often utilized as a uniting force in Vietnam and beyond, it also has the potential to create instability if it grows beyond the government's estimation or control. 'For a long time, it has been the official policy to make peace with the overseas Vietnamese community and the United States,' Hoang said. 'So this wave of online ultranationalism is seen by the Vietnamese state as unhelpful, inaccurate and, to some extent, going against official directions.' ::: Last summer, footage of Myra Tran singing at the Westminster funeral of Ly Tong, an anti-communist activist, surfaced online. She'd achieved a degree of fame by winning a singing reality show in Vietnam and appearing on 'American Idol' in 2019, but she received harsh condemnation from online nationalists and state media when the video from several years ago went viral. Facebook and TikTok users labeled Tran, now 25, as traitorous, anti-Vietnam — and Cali. The controversy prompted a more broadly-based movement to ferret out other Vietnamese celebrities suspected of conspiring against the country. Internet sleuths scoured the web for anyone who, like Tran, had appeared alongside the flag of South Vietnam and attacked them. An entertainment writer in Ho Chi Minh City, who did not want to be identified for fear of being targeted, says that as Vietnamese youth have become more nationalistic online, musicians and other artists have felt pressure to actively demonstrate their patriotism or risk the wrath of cancel culture. He added that the scrutiny of symbols like the South Vietnam flag has given those with connections to the U.S. greater reason to worry about being attacked online or losing job opportunities. That could discourage Vietnamese who live overseas — a demographic that the government has long sought to attract back to the country — from pursuing business or careers in Vietnam. 'There used to be a time when artists were very chill and careless, even though they know there has been this rivalry and this history,' he said. 'I think everybody is getting more sensitive now. Everyone is nervous and trying to be more careful.' Tran was bullied online and cut from a music television program for her 'transgression.' She issued a public apology in which she expressed gratitude to be Vietnamese, denied any intention of harming national security and promised to learn from her mistakes. Two months later, Tran was allowed to perform again. She returned to the stage at a concert in Ho Chi Minh City, where she cried and thanked fans for forgiving her. But not everyone was willing to excuse her. From the crowd, several viewers jeered and yelled at Tran to 'go home.' Videos of the concert sparked fierce debate on Facebook among Tran's defenders and her critics. 'The patriotic youth are so chaotic now,' one Vietnamese user complained after denouncing the hate that Tran was receiving online. Another shot back: 'Then go back to Cali.'
Tatler Asia
23-05-2025
- Tatler Asia
Legacy 50: 6 museums to visit this April 30
Vietnam Military History Museum Km 6+500 Thang Long Avenue, Nam Tu Liem, Hanoi Open since the late autumn of 2024, the new Vietnam Military History Museum is a striking, contemporary project that manages to retain its profound historical resonance. It is a place where the nation's wartime past is preserved through objects, light and architectural space. Situated on Thang Long Avenue, the museum becomes an especially moving destination during the April 30 holiday. More than 150,000 artifacts are housed within—from the legendary MiG-21 fighter jet to the Ho Chi Minh Campaign Determination map—each one offering a vivid glimpse into the nation's defining moments, while also capturing the quiet resilience of life during conflict. A key feature of the museum is its chronological exhibition design, blending directional sound with state-of-the-art interactive installations. The experience draws visitors in, encouraging a quiet, deeply personal engagement with history. In a Hanoi that evolves by the day, this museum stands as a firm spiritual anchor, inviting visitors to reconnect with their heritage and reflect on the enduring cost of independence. Whether you're discovering it for the first time or returning after many April seasons, a morning spent here, bathed in natural light and surrounded by artefacts once carried through war, will leave you contemplative and quietly moved. Ho Chi Minh City Museum of Fine Arts 97A Pho Duc Chinh, District 1, HCMC A journey that doesn't require leaving the city, yet manages to open the heart. Tucked away within an old French villa in the centre of District 1, the Ho Chi Minh City Museum of Fine Arts is an essential stop for those with an eye for beauty. The creaking wooden staircase, sun-dappled tiled floors and coloured glass windows evoke memories of a bygone Saigon—elegant, expressive and full of artistic grace. Above The Ho Chi Minh City Museum of Fine Arts is an essential stop for those with an eye for beauty (Photo: Ho Chi Minh City Museum of Fine Arts) The galleries here guide visitors across the many eras of Vietnamese art—from the days of Indochinese influences to contemporary expressions, from traditional lacquer work to modern installations and video pieces. The paintings hold traces of history, infused with a quiet national pride. They're never overbearing—simple in form, yet stirring in spirit, with a gentle ability to move the viewer. Above Welcome to Vietnam's total victory (Composed: 1975. Author: Tong Ngoc Phong. Material: Lacquer) The museum welcomes visitors this April 30. To walk its halls on a holiday such as this is to find beauty not only in colours and brushwork, but in the cultural weight and memory that art so often carries. Ho Chi Minh City Museum of History 2 Nguyen Binh Khiem, District 1, HCMC Tucked beside the city's Zoo in a calm, tree-lined enclave, the Ho Chi Minh City Museum of History offers a quiet retreat—a stillness in the midst of a bustling metropolis. The building itself is a graceful fusion of East and West: curved tiled roofs, wooden pillars, and traditional motifs lend it the charm of a storybook world gently waiting to be explored. Above From stone statues and regal crowns to time-worn woodblocks and delicate ceramics, the museum becomes a gentle stream of memory (Photo: Vietnam National Administration of Tourism) Inside, Vietnam's history unfolds through understated and poignant artefacts—from the ancient Van Lang and Au Lac periods to the later feudal dynasties. From stone statues and regal crowns to time-worn woodblocks and delicate ceramics, the museum becomes a gentle stream of memory, carrying its visitors through layers of time with quiet reverence. To pause here on April 30 is to reflect on the nation's long road—not through loud declarations, but through what has been preserved: fragments of once-great cultures and the imprints of their evolution. A morning meandering through cicada song and soft sunlight, among these artefacts, has a way of stilling the heart; a stillness born of remembrance, of heritage, and of a country that has weathered many storms to reach this moment. Vietnam Fine Arts Museum 66 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh, Hanoi In Hanoi, few places carry the same artistic gravitas as the Vietnam Fine Arts Museum. Home to some of the nation's most treasured works, its stately French colonial façade blends seamlessly with the deep red tiles and bricks, giving it a presence that is both timeworn and unmistakably Vietnamese. On April 30, the museum's resistance art galleries—portraying the strength of soldiers, the majesty of mountains, and the familiar tones of a not-so-distant past—take on a heightened resonance. Through these works, the national spirit reveals itself not through grandeur, but in quiet resilience, and in the human warmth that so often defines our shared stories. Above As one lingers before each canvas, the act of viewing becomes something more. Photo: Vietnam Museum of Fine Arts As one lingers before each canvas, the act of viewing becomes something more—a quiet dialogue with history, conveyed in the hushed, expressive language of painting. Above The underground struggle (Author: Huynh Phuong Dong. Medium: Watercolor, charcoal, pen and ink.) Spend a little longer here, and you'll notice the museum is not only speaking of the past. Woven between historical epochs is the subtle unfolding of Vietnam's modern artistic voice. Emerging talents continue this narrative, seeking their own place in a shifting world. Some works are rooted in folk traditions, others in bold abstraction—together, they speak of an evolving identity, where personal vision meets collective soul in a delicate yet resonant harmony. Ton Duc Thang Museum 5 Ton Duc Thang, Ben Nghe, District 1, HCMC In central District 1, the Ton Duc Thang Museum offers a quiet, poignant retreat—a space that traces the life of a steadfast, humble figure whose loyalty and depth left a lasting mark. The building itself, with its modern and understated design, allows the artefacts within to tell their story without distraction. Above Here, ideals and integrity speak softly—needing no embellishment, only their sincerity to resonate (Photo: Ton Duc Thang Museum) During the April 30 holiday, the museum's rooms dedicated to the resistance war take on a solemn tone, reflecting the spirit of solidarity and complete commitment that defined President Ton Duc Thang. Black-and-white photographs, an indigo worker's shirt, a simple wooden chair—these modest objects bring history to life not through grandeur, but through quiet conviction, mirroring the man himself. As visitors follow this path of memory, it feels as if time folds back. Here, ideals and integrity speak softly—needing no embellishment, only their sincerity to resonate. Read more: Legacy 50: April 30 legacy through the memoirs of diplomat Nguyen Thi Binh Ho Chi Minh City Museum 65 Ly Tu Trong, Ben Nghe, District 1, HCMC Set within an historic French colonial building, the Ho Chi Minh City Museum is a space that exudes time. Its lofty ceilings, grand wooden doors, arched corridors and light-drenched windows create an atmosphere of both elegance and quiet reflection. It feels less like a museum and more like a pause in the city's own timeline—capturing Saigon's transition from its colonial past to the dynamic city it is today. Above Set within an historic French colonial building, the Ho Chi Minh City Museum is a space that exudes time. Photo: Ho Chi Minh City Museum Around April 30, the museum's thematic exhibitions come into sharper focus. Displays on resistance movements, urban life in decades past, and the city during its liberation feel more intimate, more immediate. Alongside iconic visuals like vintage Lam cars or old street signs, one finds handwritten letters, worn maps, and objects soaked in memory. To wander through these galleries is to feel Saigon's layered soul. More than just observing its evolution, visitors begin to sense the undercurrent of remembrance—woven into every floorboard, every pane of glass, every fragment of history held within. READ MORE Legacy 50: Saigon - City of 'firsts' Legacy 50: Architects who have 'shaped' Saigon's memories Legacy 50: People's Artist Kim Cuong - A life, a life on stage
