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Winnipeg Free Press
14-06-2025
- Entertainment
- Winnipeg Free Press
Explore wide world of wine beyond familiar grapes
Opinion While there's something to be said for the tried-and-true Cabernet Sauvignons, Chardonnays, Merlots and Sauvignon Blancs of the world, thinking (and drinking) outside your comfort zone can offer surprising and delightful rewards. An added bonus: because these grapes aren't as popular as the aforementioned grapes, they often bring good bang for the buck. Here are six recently sampled wines made from grapes that may not have landed on your radar as of yet, but are certainly worth a look/taste… Caminhos Cruzados 2022 Titular Colheita Branco A blend of 35 per cent Encruzado, 30 per cent Malvasia Fina and 35 per cent Bical grapes, this Portuguese white is medium gold in colour, with a lovely fruit salad of pear, cherry and peach on the nose, with secondary red apple and lemon notes. It's light-bodied and dry, with a subtle saline/chalky note that comes with the fleshy pear and peach flavours, with underlying red apple and melon rind notes that show well before the modest finish (it's 13 per cent alcohol). Available at the Pourium. 3.5/5 Villa Sparina 2024 Gavi (Gavi, Italy — $24.93, Liquor Marts and beyond) Made from Cortese grapes grown in the Piedmont region of northern Italy, this white is medium-gold in colour, with bright lemon-lime, floral, peach and honeycomb notes on the nose. It's a bone dry, light-plus-bodied white with great texture, offering viscous ripe citrus and peach flavours and secondary red apple skin and chalky notes, all balanced by fresh, lively acidity before the medium finish (it's 12.5 per cent alcohol). A delight to drink now. 4/5 Low Life Barrel House 2023 Fizzy Red (Winnipeg/Niagara — $25.99, winery, Liquor Marts and beyond) A sparkling red made from Marechal Foch and Gewürztaminer grapes grown in Ontario and vinified in Manitoba, the Fizzy Red is bright inky purple in colour and brings crunchy cranberry, plum, blackberry, bread dough and spice notes on the nose. It's dry and medium-bodied, with those crunchy red and dark berry flavours coming with floral and plum flavours, light tannins and a modest finish (it's 11 per cent alcohol). Warning: it's aggressive bubbly, even sporting a label that says 'I AM REALLY FIZZY.' Fun, fresh and lively — but open the bottle over your sink and be careful. 3.5/5 Georges Duboeuf 2023 Gamay (Vin de Pays de l'Ardeche, France — $14.24, Liquor Marts and beyond) Dark cherry in colour, this red is made from Gamay grapes grown along the western bank of the Rhône river, and brings violet, cranberry, plum, strawberry and subtle bubble gum notes aromatically. It's dry, light-plus-bodied and juicy, with juicy strawberry, cherry candy, raspberry and plum notes along with light tannins and acidity and, at 13 per cent alcohol, a modest finish. There's no oak influence here to speak of; chill this down for 15-20 minutes and enjoy this fun red on the patio. A good value, particularly as it's on sale until the end of June (regular $15.99). 3.5/5 Torre Mora 2021 Cauru (Etna Rosso, Italy — $34.95, Kenaston Wine Market) Made from the Nerello Mascalese grape — Sicily's equivalent to Pinot Noir — this southern Italian red does well in the volcanic soils in the foothills of Mount Etna. It's pale cherry-brick in appearance, offering deep plum, strawberry, earth, cherry and herbal notes on the nose. It's dry and light-plus bodied, with grippy tannins offering the plum and red berry notes some structure, hints of red licorice and white pepper underlying the fruit, modest acidity and a medium-length finish. Fans of red Burgundy take note; drink this complex red now or hold for 18-24 months. Available at Kenaston Wine Market. 4.5/5 Tiger Horse 2023 Old Vine Cinsault (Western Cape, South Africa — $18.99, Liquor Marts and beyond) Sourced from vines averaging 40 years old, grown and planted as bush vines (rather than neatly trained rows in the vineyard), this red is pale cherry in colour, offering black cherry, plum, violet, blackberry and subtle smoky aromas. It's light-plus-bodied and dry, bringing juicy and almost-sour cherry, plum and blackberry flavours with hints of cracked pepper and black tea; tannins are mild and it delivers a medium-length finish (it's 13 per cent alcohol). Another red that would benefit from 15 minutes in the fridge before serving. 4/5 uncorked@ @bensigurdson Ben SigurdsonLiterary editor, drinks writer Ben Sigurdson is the Free Press's literary editor and drinks writer. He graduated with a master of arts degree in English from the University of Manitoba in 2005, the same year he began writing Uncorked, the weekly Free Press drinks column. He joined the Free Press full time in 2013 as a copy editor before being appointed literary editor in 2014. Read more about Ben. In addition to providing opinions and analysis on wine and drinks, Ben oversees a team of freelance book reviewers and produces content for the arts and life section, all of which is reviewed by the Free Press's editing team before being posted online or published in print. It's part of the Free Press's tradition, since 1872, of producing reliable independent journalism. Read more about Free Press's history and mandate, and learn how our newsroom operates. Our newsroom depends on a growing audience of readers to power our journalism. If you are not a paid reader, please consider becoming a subscriber. Our newsroom depends on its audience of readers to power our journalism. Thank you for your support.
Globe and Mail
21-05-2025
- Business
- Globe and Mail
Eight wines to enjoy in the summer
The sun is out – and hopefully is here to stay – which means we're reaching prime al fresco dining season. Local winemakers and liquor stores are ready to accommodate with new releases of white, rosé and sparkling wines to soothe or excite your senses. There are also some satiating reds to consider whether you're looking to enjoy now or stock up for later. Some of my favourite seasonal styles are featured here, starting with a vivid white that's so nice they named it Gavi twice. Villa Sparina Gavi di Gavi is a terrific introduction to the cortese grape and the satisfying wines it's capable of producing in Piedmont. There are also two different approaches to sauvignon blanc from top Canadian producers, Hidden Bench and Spearhead. They offer texture and balance as well as the traditional payload of flavour intensity you'd expect from the grape variety, which tastes even better when the sun is high in the sky. Admittedly, warming temperatures prompt me to reach for lighter and brighter styles of wine. But there's no controlling when liquor stores release special bottles. I might not be in the mood to enjoy a glass of Brunello while sitting on the back deck in the coming weeks, but I know I'd better buy the current release from Barbi now as it's not likely to be still available when sweater weather returns. Bartier Bros. Pristine Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé 2024 (Canada), $19.99 Rating: 88 Bartier's Pristine label reflects the replacement wines made with grapes grown in Washington's Columbia Valley, in this instance from 40-year-old vines in the Wahluke Slope appellation. Rosé made with cabernet sauvignon can be structured and savoury in nature, but this leans towards the juicy spectrum. A combination of cherry, berry and spice contribute to its delicious, summery flavour. This has 12.5 per cent ABV and 1.5 g/l r.s. Drink now. Available at the above price in British Columbia or direct, Fattoria dei Barbi Brunello di Montalcino 2019 (Italy), $58.95 Rating: 94 The Colombini family has been producing Brunello at Fattori dei Barbi since 1892 and were the first to export its wines to Europe, America and Asia. The 2019 vintage is celebrated by winemakers in Montalcino for delivering an abundance of top quality sangiovese grapes. The result is this youthful red that shows classically structured character marked by appealing cherry and berry fruit character. More bottle age will enhance the complexity and fragrance of this stylish, medium-bodied Tuscan wine. This has 14.5 per cent ABV and 3 g/l r.s. Drink now to 2040. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in Alberta, $57 in Quebec. Flat Rock Pinot Noir 2024 (Canada), $24.95 Rating: 89 Former winemaker Marlize Beyers has returned to Flat Rock as a consultant winemaker, overseeing the tightly focused portfolio (pinot noir, chardonnay and riesling) of this family-owned Jordan winery. This estate bottled pinot offers a mix of floral, berry and oak-derived spice flavours as part of a dry and structured red. Serving in a proper large bowl, balloon-shaped Burgundy glass helps to coax more fruit and fragrance from this youthful expression. This has 13 per cent ABV and 3 g/l r.s. Drink now to 2030. Available in Ontario at the above price or direct, various prices in Alberta. Graham Beck Méthode Cap Classique Brut Pinot Noir/Chardonnay Rosé Sparkling (South Africa), $24.95 Rating: 91 Based in Robertson, Graham Beck consistently offers great value bottle fermented sparkling wines. Made in a crowd-pleasing style, this enjoyable rosé is based on (54/46) mix of pinot noir and chardonnay that were fermented separately before being blended for secondary fermentation and aging on the lees (dead yeast cells). This is a dry and nicely balanced bubbly, with cherry and plum flavours contributing to its easy-going appeal. This has 12 per cent ABV and 7 g/l r.s. Drink now. Available in Ontario. Hidden Bench Rosomel Vineyard Fumé Blanc 2022 (Canada), $29.95 Rating: 93 The Rosomel vineyard was established by grape grower Roman Prydatkewycz on Niagara's Beamsville Bench in 1976. It's been owned by Hidden Bench Estate Winery since 2002, providing the grapes for several distinctive single-vineyard wines, such as this invigorating and complex barrel fermented sauvignon blanc. Made in a dry and medium-bodied style, this straddles the line between richness and refreshment in the most satisfying manner. This has 13 per cent ABV and 3 g/l r.s. Drink now to 2032. Available at the above price in Ontario or direct, $35.25 in Quebec (2021 vintage). Spearhead Winery Dual Citizen Sauvignon Blanc 2024 (Canada), $29 Rating: 91 Best known for its exciting estate grown pinot noir and chardonnays from the Okanagan, Spearhead embraced the opportunity to produce sauvignon blanc from Yakima Valley as part of its Dual Citizen label. A lack of grapes after a serious winter frost in 2024 led winemaker Grant Stanley to explore options in the Columbia Valley. This conveys textbook citrus and herbal notes as part of a mouth-watering white wine with refreshing acidity and a crisp finish. This has 14 per cent ABV and 2 g/l r.s. Drink now to 2028. Available direct, Villa Sparina Gavi di Gavi 2023 (Italy), $22.95 Rating: 90 The distinctive curvy container used by Villa Sparina was inspired by an old bottle found in the cellar of this family-owned winery in Piedmont. The unusual shape helps attract attention to this satisfying regional white wine made from the cortese grape. Expect a refreshing mix of citrus, peach and floral notes with a rich texture and lingering chalky finish. This has 12.4 per cent ABV and 5 g/l r.s. Drink now to 2028. Available at the above price in Ontario, $29.98 in British Columbia (Everything Wine), various prices in Alberta, $31 in Nova Scotia (Bishop's Cellar). Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet/Shiraz/Malbec/Merlot 2022 (Australia), $19.95 Rating: 90 Wynns first produced this cabernet-shiraz blend from Coonawarra in 1969 and has continued to evolve its style, adding merlot and malbec into the mix of grape varieties over the years. The red stripe on the label is seen as a reference to the region's unique terra rossa soil – a dusty mix of clay and limestone that helps to produce vibrant and ripe red wines. The 2022 vintage shows a core of rich cherry, cassis and blueberry fruit with cedar and floral accents that's ready to drink. This has 14 per cent ABV and 3 g/l r.s. Drink now to 2029. Available in Ontario.
