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Travel + Leisure
06-07-2025
- Travel + Leisure
I Stayed At One of the Best Hidden-gem Resorts in the Caribbean—and It Has Beach Bungalows, Unlimited Watersports, and a National Park Next Door
Bitter End Yacht Club's location on the protected North Sound of Virgin Gorda creates ideal conditions for watersports, relaxation, and spotting marine life. From beach bungalows on pristine shores to two-story marina lofts, airy accommodations stay true to the resort's classic nautical feel while providing all the comfortable perks of a luxury getaway. After hurricane Irma destroyed the property in 2017, the resort's rebuild has revived its vintage aesthetic with a commitment to up-cycled and natural materials. Adventures abound with the use of paddleboards, sailboats, windsurf boards, and much more included with every stay. ' That one is going to leave a massive bruise ,' I thought while once again face-planting into the turquoise waters of Bitter End Yacht Club in the British Virgin Islands. It was my first time on an e-foil, an electric surfboard that lifts and propels riders above the water. When I left the secluded resort the next day, my legs were covered in purple, yellow, and red splotches. My muscles ached, and there was sand in every crevice of my luggage. The trip had been transcendent. Bitter End Yacht Club is tucked away on a peninsula off of Virgin Gorda's North Sound, just beyond Richard Branson's Necker Island and Prickly Pear, a national park. It's the last land outpost before the Caribbean Sea meets the Atlantic Ocean. To adventurers and thalassophiles, it's a paradise like no other. Former charter skipper Basil Symonette founded Bitter End in the late 1960s. The scrappy clubhouse where he served yachtsmen stiff drinks and simple meals was quite difficult to reach—and that was the whole point. According to Lauren Hokin, a member of the third generation of her family to run Bitter End, Symonette had been ostracized by influential, homophobic family members. He and his partner made a sanctuary out of the remote shoreline. Exterior view of the property and entrance sign. Lydia Price/Travel + Leisure Since the law required you to provide lodging if you served alcohol, Symonette reluctantly got into the hotel business, too. 'I think he had two barebones cottages with, according to my grandmother, paper sheets on the beds,' said Hokin. By 1970, Hokin's sailor family had become regulars. They spent the next three years negotiating with Symonette before finally getting to call the place their own. It wasn't long before the BVI became a popular sailing destination for its spectacular reefs and sparse crowds. Much like their predecessor, the Hokin clan felt pressure to turn their personal retreat into a career out of obligation rather than ambition. "My grandfather, I think he always felt guilty about having things like that without a business purpose, so when he saw that there were in fact people who would eat at his restaurant if he showed a little bit of interest in cultivating their business, [he went for it]," Hokin said. Exterior view of the Bitter End Yacht Club during sunset in Spanish Town of the British Virgin Islands. Over the next forty years Bitter End's 'magical' (as Hokin calls it) water earned it a slew of repeat guests. The sound is deep enough to anchor, but surrounding reefs and islands protect it from rough weather—and give travelers endless opportunities to interact with the seascape. 'You can go from this protected, safe, serene harbor out to the reef in five minutes and be among this spectacular underwater ecosystem,' she told me. These days, no one knows that water better than Captain Kinto Sprauve. Born and raised on Virgin Gorda, he started as a Bitter End bus boy at 17 years old. His current role includes leading snorkel excursions, and he's renowned for his uncanny ability to find marine life under any conditions. Thanks to Sprauve, it's pretty much always a good day to snorkel at Bitter End. 'The water raised me,' Sprauve told me of growing up on Virgin Gorda. 'I used to live two seconds from the beach, and after school I'd put on my swim trunks and off I'd go.' As for his expertise in finding the best places to get stunning views of the underwater world, 'it just comes natural,' he said. Enjoy the scenic views while relaxing in a hammock. Lydia Price/Travel + Leisure A typical Bitter End guest shares Sprauve's tenacious love of playing in the water. I spent my days kayaking, swimming alongside fish, and whizzing around a legion of yachts on a catamaran. I marveled at the color of the sea from my outdoor shower. I fell asleep to the endless sound of waves lapping the shore. And even while repeatedly smacking into the water's surface during my e-foiling attempt, I felt wholly in my element at Bitter End. In the decades since he began working at the resort, Sprauve has only been away from Bitter End once—after it was leveled by Hurricane Irma in 2017. Like much of the staff, he didn't hesitate to return when the resort partially reopened in 2021. 'Bitter End is home for me, man," Sprauve said. "You can have the most beautiful place in the world—the people are what make whatever you have work." Hokin felt similarly. 'Our whole thing is about creating cool experiences and cultivating friendships, relationships with people who are kindred spirits,' Hokin put it. 'People who love adventure, love the sea, or even people who are just learning what life at sea or next to the sea is about.' Here's what it's like to stay at the Bitter End Yacht Club. Bitter End Yacht Club has three types of on-land lodging: Beach Bungalows, Marina Lofts, and Marina House rooms. All have a three-night minimum stay. After Hurricane Irma destroyed the resort in 2017, the new accommodations were primarily built with salvaged and up-cycled materials. Design was done in-house, and on-site artisans crafted the furnishings. The goal was to revive the vintage nautical aesthetic while keeping guests as integrated into the natural landscape as possible. "The reason you're there is to be outside, or at least to be as close to being outside as possible. My dad always says, 'All you need is a roof over your head and a mosquito net.' That was one of the guiding concepts for our redesign," owner Lauren Hokin told Travel + Leisure . Panoramic views of the North Sound from inside a beach bungalow. Carolina Ansaldo/Bitter End Yacht Club Inspired by Bitter End's rustic cottages from the 1970s, each bungalow blends in perfectly with the coastline's natural beauty while providing guests with upscale amenities. The 975-square-foot bungalows have indoor and outdoor showers, dual sinks, and panoramic views of the beach from a king-size bed. You can watch those short and powerful Caribbean rainstorms from the wraparound porch or soak in the sun on the private chaises adorning the beach. Bitter End's pair of two-story Marina Lofts are perched above the water's edge. At 1,200 square feet, they're the club's roomiest accommodation option. They include private swim docks and terraces with sweeping views of the marina's lavish yachts. The upper floor houses the California-king primary bedroom, and a downstairs lounge area can be used as a separate sleeping space if needed. For groups, there's no better option than the four-room Marina House. Each 500-square-foot room has a California king bed. They have two sinks, private terraces, and an airy build that allows you to feel the sea breeze throughout the room. The Marina House rooms can also be booked individually. Bitter End Yacht Club also has 70 moorings and dockage that can accommodate up to 26 ships. Enjoy the locally sourced sea-to-table menu at The Clubhouse. Carolina Ansaldo/Bitter End Yacht Club Reef Sampler is the boat-turned-bar. Bitter End's oldest restaurant, The Clubhouse, serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner al fresco with marina views. Hearty dishes like Anegada lobster, angus ribeye, and green curry hit the spot after a day in the sun. The Buoy Room is The Clubhouse's casual counterpart, serving lunch and dinner. It has an assortment of share plates including stone-fried pizzas, chicken wings, and mahi mahi ceviche, plus much menu that overlaps with The Clubhouse. A library and vintage game center by day, The Quarterdeck Mariner's Lounge transforms into an open-air bar serving rare rums and curated cocktails to enjoy post-beach. Rum tastings are held every Tuesday. The Reef Sampler is a Bitter End icon. The 34-foot-long Downeast boat had been in service since the 1960s when it disappeared in Hurricane Irma. In 2018, the sunken vessel was discovered in Bitter End's mooring field and carefully resurfaced. Now, her job is serving cocktails daily from noon to 7 p.m. An on-site barista fulfills all coffee needs, along with pastry cravings and smoothie power-ups. In between meals, provisions are available at The Market. It's stocked with everything boaters could need on their journeys, plus freshly baked pastries, local produce, and dry snacks. Guests can enjoy the North and Eustatia Sound with the many waterspouts available. From windsurfing to sailing and kayaking, there's no shortage of water activities to try at Bitter End. All non-electric watersports are included in a stay, while lessons and e-foil, Seabob, and other powered rentals can be arranged for a fee. Thanks to the harbor's natural protection and calm waters, Bitter End is a great place to try something new. Snorkeling trips with Captain Kinto are a must for any marine-life lovers. Expect to see anything from eagle rays to sea turtles and nurse sharks. Back on land, you can hike to nearby Drake's Outlook for spectacular views of the islands or gather for a few rounds of vintage games in the Quarterdeck Mariner's Lounge. Next to the market, there's Reeftique, with souvenirs and beach essentials like sunscreen and apparel. It's an island boutique, so you won't find any bargains here, but it'll have your back when you need extra SPF. Although the elaborate kids' program Bitter End had pre-Irma is still slowly but surely being rebuilt, the resort remains a distinctly family-friendly destination. All watersports and land activities are open to kids, and sessions with instructors are available. Now manager of the marina and watersports, Nick Putnam ran the popular kids' program before the hurricane. He said the team is hard at work relaunching the resort's youth offerings with group trips and activities for kids. "I think one huge benefit that we used to provide was a few hours in the morning and afternoon for the parents to go out windsurf, or to go out kitesurf, or go on a snorkel trip, and not to have to worry about their kids not having a good time, because they were with me having a ball," he said. Interior of an on property lounge. Carolina Ansaldo/Bitter End Yacht Club Environmental care is one of Bitter End's most steadfast values. 'Mother Nature is the star of the show, and how we integrate our lives into that landscape is something that we give a lot of thought to, because we want to do it as gently as possible,' said owner Lauren Hokin. While rebuilding, the team strove to use mostly up-cycled, salvaged, and natural materials. Everything from the headboards to the desks and minibars was designed and built at Bitter End. 'Things like recycling are complex to navigate. You end up doing a lot more reusing and repurposing than you do with typical recycling because of that,' Nick Putnam, the marina and watersports manager (who has a degree in environmental economics and policy), said on the topic of staying sustainable in a secluded location. 'We rebuilt with a lot of repurposed material. The boardwalk that goes through the entire village is all repurposed timber from our old rooms.' Bitter End supports community environmental efforts by opening their space and equipment to the Green Sprouts Eco Club, an organization aimed at getting young people involved in recycling, beach cleanups, and gardening. Its introductory watersports program is held at Bitter End. Bitter End is not wheelchair accessible and does not have ADA-compliant accommodations. Bitter End Yacht Club is located on the North Sound of Virgin Gorda, the third largest island in the British Virgin Islands. It's the last land outpost before the Caribbean Sea meets the Atlantic Ocean and is accessible only by water. Bitter End isn't the most straightforward place to get to—and diehard fans of the decades-old resort consider that a good thing. 'I just don't think this place is for the masses, and it probably never will be. And that's part of what drives people here,' Putnam said. 'This is the best-kept secret that no one is really keeping. If you work hard to get here and you do come, you're going to be rewarded with the best time you've had in a long time, or potentially ever." Of the several ways to reach the resort, the most common starts by flying to Terrance B. Lettsome International Airport (EIS) on Beef Island, which is connected to Tortola by bridge. American Airlines flies directly from Miami to Beef Island. From there, you'll take a five-minute transfer to Trellis Bay, where Bitter End's charter boat can take you on the last 30-minute leg of the journey for $415 each way. Alternatively, you can take a public ferry from Trellis Bay to Spanish Town, take a 15-minute taxi to Gun Creek, and then enjoy a complimentary seven-minute ferry to Bitter End. You can also fly directly to Virgin Gorda Airport (VIJ) on Cape Air and taxi to Gun Creek. Although flights to St. Thomas on the U.S. Virgin Islands are generally cheaper than those to the BVI upfront, Bitter End veterans Putnam and Sprauve advise against taking this route, emphasizing that it tends to be more costly in both money and time in the end. Bitter End Yacht Club does not currently have any loyalty program or partnerships with credit card rewards programs. Nightly rates at the family-owned resort start at $561. Every T+L hotel review is written by an editor or reporter who has stayed at the property, and each hotel selected aligns with our core values.
Forbes
06-06-2025
- Forbes
How To Vacation Like A Billionaire In The British Virgin Islands
Virgin Gorda is the third-largest of the British Virgin Islands. The British Virgin Islands draw crowds each year to explore sites like Cane Garden Bay and the Soggy Dollar Bar, but when it comes to experiencing unparalleled luxury, it's tough to find a better destination than Virgin Gorda. Along the island's North Sound, a multitude of world-class luxury communities have cropped up in recent years, earning the region the nickname 'the Billionaire's Playground'—and few sites exemplify the moniker as well as Oil Nut Bay. Home to fifteen distinct neighborhoods across 400 acres, this seaside escape offers a truly staggering array of high-end amenities, offering an opportunity for guests to experience the pristine beauty of the British Virgin Islands at their most luxurious. Oil Nut Bay is only accessible via boat or helicopter. Immediately upon arrival, Oil Nut Bay guests will be greeted with dazzling views of turquoise water, towering seaside cliffs and fascinating avifauna, all of which can be encountered in abundance during a stay at the property's Cliff Penthouse. Measuring in at 1,334 square feet, this palatial space offers some of the finest views in all of the Caribbean, with floor-to-ceiling windows, an expansive outdoor shower and an open-air terrace perched high above the water's edge—and to sweeten the deal, it also comes equipped with a marvelous infinity pool. Designed to enhance the beauty of the Virgin Gorda coastline, this sleek feature is perfect for soaking in the sun all throughout the day, while twilight brings the opportunity to catch a stellar sunset. While it may be tempting to spend your entire stay lounging poolside in view of the cliffs, Oil Nut Bay offers a wealth of can't-miss amenities found just beyond villa limits. Across the community, guests can make use of the fitness studio or stroll along one of the five separate hiking trails—but for a truly relaxing experience, it's tough to beat the Sundara Spa. A recent addition to Virgin Gorda, this polished venue serves as the first overwater spa in all of the British Virgin Islands, with multiple design flourishes that enhance the rich beauty of the surrounding sound. Treatments span from aromatherapy massages to seaweed body wraps, and each session offers plenty of opportunity to gaze at the colorful fish that call the region home, with large windows installed under each massage table to showcase the ocean below. Virgin Gorda's North Sound is renowned for its optimal sailing conditions. Lavish amenities abound across Oil Nut Bay, but the community also offers an opportunity to get up-close-and-personal with the native flora and fauna of Virgin Gorda. All throughout the day, guests can marvel at tropicbirds soaring along the cliffs or swing by the nature center to catch a glimpse of wild flamingos—but for best results, be sure to spend some time on the water. Stand-up paddleboarding, snorkeling and kayaking are just a few of the activities offered by Oil Nut Bay, while the North Sound has earned worldwide acclaim for its exemplary sailing opportunities, providing guests with a chance to surge along the surf and bask in the vibrant beauty of the coastline with an experienced captain. Sea turtles, rays, and reef fish have all flourished across the North Sound for eons, and Oil Nut Bay has made it their mission to ensure a promising future for all native flora and fauna. From its earliest conceptualization, Founder David V. Johnson has made sustainability a central pillar of the Oil Nut Bay ethos, with a robust range of programs in place spanning from desalination and rain collection to extensive use of solar panels. Beyond these initiatives, the community also reserves 200 acres as green space, leaving plenty of room for the indigenous Turk's head cactus to flourish—and aside from plants, Oil Nut Bay also serves as a crucial haven for orphaned animals across Virgin Gorda, operating an on-site Rescue Barn that's home to cats, tortoises, horses and emus. Salt fish plays a prominent role in many Caribbean cuisines. You're certain to build up an appetite after a day of sailing, and fortunately, Oil Nut Bay excels at the art of high-end drinking and dining. During a trip to the waterfront Marina Village, guests can find a particularly lively lunch and dinner spot in the form of Nova, with a wealth of dishes that highlight local cuisine as well as flavors from far beyond the Virgin Islands. Sushi fans can spring for spicy tuna, salmon and rainbow rolls, while the venue also crafts an ultra-flavorful green coconut curry—but for a taste of the rich flavors of the Caribbean at their best, be sure to order the grilled whole Anegada lobster, a savory option that's elevated with a citrus-heavy dose of mango salsa. While Nova is certainly impressive, the Beach Club is also prime territory for fine dining with the added bonus of three separate pools and a swim-up bar. During morning hours, guests can gear up for their day with a hearty serving of johnny cake and salt fish, while rum fans should be sure to indulge in an afternoon tasting designed to showcase some of the Caribbean's most established brands—and come evening time, the main dining space is perfect for a romantic meal bathed in the golden glow of sunset. While options span from eight-ounce beef fillets to rosemary-infused racks of lamb, the venue is particularly adept at seafood, providing diners with an opportunity to feast on top-quality dishes like spaghetti frutti di mare and roasted red snapper.
Forbes
31-05-2025
- Health
- Forbes
Fresh Luxury: Oil Nut Bay Resort Adds New Villas And Spa In The BVI
The just opened overwater spa in the water surrounding the British Virgin Islands Resort Oil Nut Bay. Oil Nut Bay On the eastern end of Virgin Gorda in the British Virgin Islands, located on 400 acres of land surrounded on three sides by turquoise water, Oil Nut Bay has been a tranquil respite since its opening a decade ago. The only thing it was missing was a spa, particularly noticeable as wellness travel began to zoom in travelers' interests the last few years. So this year, enter Sundara Spa + Studio, a center of healing and restorative experiences situated for extra relaxation, overwater. The new six bedroom hilltop estate Wings on sale for $32.5 million but available to rent by the week. Oil Nut Bay Being located in the British Virgin Islands also helps. This group of 50 islands with consistent trade winds has long been known as a sailors' paradise, lending a laid back overall tone. There are top level resorts but not to a point of overdevelopment and several of those resorts are on private islands: Richard Branson's Necker and Moskito, Peter Island, Guana Island. And even though these islands are not that far away, they've never been that easy to get to directly from the U.S.; instead a network of small planes, ferries and charters were required. (The addition of a flight from Miami to Terrance B. Lettsome International Airport on Beef Island, the country's main air gateway in 2023 has certainly helped, though. Oil Nut Bay owners and guests can also reserve NetJets charters from any U.S. airport to Beef Island at the same rate as a NetJets member.) The dining area of the five bedroom Maronti Villa. Oil Nut Bay Within this overall environment, Oil Nut Bay fits right in, designed not as a large, internationally branded hotel with buzzing activity but as a low density expanse of luxury homes and villas. There are 51 overall with 31 available to rent ranging from cliffside suites to seven-bedroom estates such as the new 9.513 square foot Wings which is on the market for $32.5 million but also available to rent by the week and has six freestanding bedrooms each with its own plunge pool. The interior of the villa Casino Royale. Oil Nut Bay Other homes hitting the rental market for the first time this season are the newly constructed 4,154 square foot, five bedroom Quintessa and the six bedroom, waterfront Casino Royale. (Other home sites and villas are still available to buy with prices ranging from $1.95 million to Wings' $32.5 million.) Half of the property's 400 acres is still devoted to green space, though, so it's hardly overcrowded. The recently redesigned Beach Club with three pools and a restaurant. Tanveer Badal Photography / TANV There are also significant facilities. Bordering the mile long beach, the recently redesigned beach club has three pools, an open air restaurant and a swim up bar; the fitness center has a top-of-the-line gym, pickleball and tennis courts; younger family members have their own Kids Club and interactive nature center. Adjacent to the full service 101 slip marina, Marina Village contains the overwater restaurant Nova serving Caribbean cuisine, seafood and sushi, a pool with day beds and boutique and the Deep Bay watersports center for kiteboarding, windsurfing, snorkeling plus Hobie cat sailing and waterskiing lessons. The lounge attached to the restaurant Nova at Marina Village. Oil Nut Bay The opening of the Sundara Spa + Studio this month obviously adds to the options. Treatments include massages utilizing a mixture of orange, clove, ginger and seaweed, or emulating the movements of the sea to relieve muscular tension; a seaweed leaf wrap to soften and nourish the skin and skin renewal facials. Wellness rituals include yoga and sound healing. Starting in October, a four-day ritual will become part of the treatment menu including body wraps, massages and skin renewal facials all involving seaweed. The intended results: returning the guest to the real world in a state of relaxation, even more than the resort would produce on its own.
