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India.com
11-07-2025
- Business
- India.com
Beyond Kebabs and Nawabs: How Lucknow's Local Markets Tell Its Real Story
As the capital city of Uttar Pradesh in India, Lucknow presents itself as a diverse city space combining historical value and cultural richness along with traditional traditions. Lucknow stands distinguished among Indian cities through its historical foundations alongside its respectable etiquette traditions and its delicious food reputation. Local markets in Lucknow serve as commercial centers where the true spirit of this city animates. Lucknow markets demonstrate the Museal grandeur of the past with Awadhan charm in combination with present-day energetic busyness. The Historical Roots of Lucknow's Markets Lucknow established its trading position in the Nawabi era after becoming the capital of the Awadh Nawabs. Through their patronage the Nawabs enabled the city to grow economically and culturally as markets became essential for daily needs. The Nawab rulers of Lucknow established an environment where different traditional elements merged because they invited skilled Indian workers across the nation to stay in the city. Through continuous operation bazaars preserve the city's original essence while maintaining its defining qualities to this day. Aromas and Flavors: Chowk and Aminabad Lucknow's culinary legacy becomes fully understood through exploring its two renowned food markets which are Chowk and Aminabad. Chowk Lucknow's famous Awadhi cuisine exists exclusively in Chowk which occupies the historic district of the city. Alongside Tunday Kababi the most legendary eatery in this area serves up its famous galouti kebabs that were invented when Nawab Wajid Ali Shah ruled the city. The renowned Rahim's Ki Mashoor Malai Makhan welcomes visitors to experience its beloved sweets including malai makhan alongside the nimish frothy dessert. The Chowk area's narrow streets generate an exquisite blend of spice fragrances and fresh paratha baking and boiling curry smells for visitors to explore historical times. Aminabad Aminabad, another historic market, serves as a gateway to Lucknow's gastronomic delights. Two landmarks stand out at this location: Idrees Biryani alongside Prakash Kulfi which have gained a universal fan following among both residents and visitors. Idrees Biryani prepares fragrant traditional dum cooking biryanis while Prakash Kulfi provides creamy kulfi (Indian ice cream) in flavors of mango and pistachio. Visitors can find complete satisfaction in Aminabad because this area boasts stores that specialize in both food items and textiles along with jewelry products. Handicrafts and Artistry: Nakhas and Hazratganj The city of Lucknow maintains its fame through its approach to beautiful craftsmanship using both the chikankari embroidery technique and zardozi artistry. Artistic heritage finds its perfect embodiment in the two distinguished markets of Nakhas and Hazratganj. Nakhas The bank of Gomti River serves as home to Nakhas Market which offers genuine chikankari garments to its visitors. Lucknow's cultural traditions preserve the delicate hand-embroidery art of Chikankari which took root during Mughal times. The marketplace provides many opportunities for bargain shopping of delicate embroidered kurtas and dupattas along with sarees. Among the affordable items available at Nakhas Market customers can find mojaris which are traditionally handcrafted leather shoes with decorative stitching. Hazratganj Nakhas preserves authenticity while Hazratganj creates a blend between old historical design and modern contemporary appeal. The shopping and dining destination Hazratganj functions as 'the Connaught Place of Lucknow' because it features luxury boutiques and upscale cafes along with bookstores throughout its framework. Traditional zardozi work stores that specialize in gold and silver thread embroidery can be found between contemporary establishments throughout the shopping districts. Traditional wedding clothes and formal outfits gain exceptional lavishness through the Zardozi embroidery technique which upholdsLucknow's artisanal heritage. Spiritual Significance: Gol Darwaza and Janpath Market The markets of Lucknow serve dual functions as they provide retail outlets yet they also possess sacred importance. The Gol Darwaza complex rests close to Chowk where visitors can explore the religious site which includes the Bara Imambara and Rumi Darwaza. Religious activities are the main focus of this area although people can find small vendors who sell flowers and incense sticks along with traditional foods including kachoris and jalebis around the religious site. The commercial district of Janpath Market shows the present changes happening to the city even though its history compares less to other markets. This market combines religious aspects with commercial offerings in its location adjacent to Indira Gandhi Pratishthan grounds. People can buy modern accessories with traditional spiritual items at this market which serves both young customers and preserves historical customs. Modern-Day Vibrancy: Gomti Nagar and Alambagh The expanding development of Lucknow has given rise to new marketplaces which serve as additional destinations besides its traditional marketplaces. The growing community of Gomti Nagar houses two upscale shopping destinations known as Fun Republic Mall along with Phoenix United Mall. The contemporary shopping spaces preserve fragments of Lucknow's authentic character. Food courts across shopping centers showcase classic local dishes of chaat and kebabs to preserve the original essence of the city through each period of change. Alambagh , another bustling area, combines wholesale trade with retail outlets. The business section of Alambagh Market displays Lucknow's capability to thrive economically while presenting a wide range of electronic and clothing products. People can easily reach this marketplace because it stands near the Alambagh Bus Station which enhances the area's ability to bring travelers into contact with the popular marketplace culture. In Short Local markets play a fundamental role in Lucknow because they illustrate the cultural heritage as well as the diverse tapestry of its people while representing the essence of the city. Every marketplace in Lucknow reveals historical and present-day aspects of the city by providing visitors with kebab dining in Chowk and chikankari appreciation in Nakhas and shopping in the stylish streets of Hazratganj. These commercial centers serve as active representations which embody the cultural value of Lucknow by combining grace with welcoming and accepting atmospheres. The soul of Lucknow emerges fully only when individuals wander through its markets to connect with people and absorb the entire sensory range of sights and sounds with flavors they provide.
India.com
18-06-2025
- Business
- India.com
Haveli Worth Rs 100000000000, private zoo with 18000 pigeons, once a ruler of Awadh, still burdened in debt due to…, he was…
Haveli Worth Rs 100000000000, private zoo with 18000 pigeons, once a ruler of Awadh, still burdened in debt due to…, he was… The last Nawab of Awadh, Wajid Ali Shah, is remembered today as a person of incredible riches and extravagance. By Sumaila Zaman Edited by Sumaila Zaman Advertisement Haveli Worth Rs 100000000000, private zoo with 18000 pigeons, once a ruler of Awadh, still burdened in debt due to..., he was... Some individuals are incredibly wealthy — grand living spaces, extravagance, and anything money can buy. But life is uncertain. Fortunes may fade quickly, empires may collapse, and those who have thrived on wealth may suddenly find themselves dealing with unforeseen loss. Wealth is never guaranteed, as history shows us at times; it can dissipate as rapidly as it came about. One such person was Wajid Ali Shah, the last nawab of Awadh. The last Nawab of Awadh, Wajid Ali Shah, is remembered today as a person of incredible riches and extravagance. In today's terms, the value of his assets would be thousands of crores of rupees. He was royal from 1847 to 1856, a mere nine years. However, his contributions remain today in the very identity of Lucknow, beyond mere buildings and art. His contributions extended well past legacy architecture and preservation of art and culture; he had a thriving economy based on agriculture, trade, and had something extraordinary from the last master of taxes. While there are no official records on the exact amount of wealth, there are historians and old documents suggesting that even back then the amounts were staggering, and once calculated for today's values, the amounts would be mind-boggling. Advertisement === The Qaiserbagh Palace complex was one of Wajid Ali Shah's most amazing projects, and he commissioned it between 1848 and 1850. The construction cost approximately 8 million rupees in 1850 — the equivalent of nearly Rs 10,000 crore in today's terms — most likely the costliest royal estate of its time and only one of many luxurious palaces constructed during his reign. Wajid Ali Shah's court was no different. His court was one of excess, extravagance, with hundreds of wives, dozens of courtiers, a plethora of court artists, musicians, and bands which included a stack of servants and guards, among others — all of which represented lifestyles never seen before and perhaps never replicated since. The Nawab had not only a love for architecture and poetry but also a genuine love for everything beautiful. He had a unique private zoo which had monkeys, bears, and almost 18,000 pigeons. His gardens were also unique and were a really big space for theatre dramas, dance recitals, and poetry functions – this showed his great love of art, culture, and, as suc,h a great patron of the arts. When Awadh was annexed by the British in 1856, Nawab Wajid Ali Shah was unceremoniously exiled to the Metiabruz area of Kolkata. It was an exile, but it did not mean he was reduced to a poverty-stricken life, not immediately at least. He received an annual pension from the British government of Rs 12 lakh, which was a huge sum at the time, to have him live as royally as possible. Advertisement === But the Nawab's costs far exceeded his allowance. An 1874 report from The New York Times states that over 7,000 people were living in his Kolkata residence — including many dancers, bodyguards, pets, and housekeeping staff. In order to maintain his former regality, Nawab Wajid Ali Shah, of Awadh, had rented several additional bungalows, indicating that he still had considerable wealth, even though he had lost his kingdom. But, his grandiosity was not to last. Over time, much of his property was seized by the British. The colonial government eventually saddled him with what would amount to nearly Rs 200 crore in present-day terms. Though he continued to receive a pension, his financial situation was increasingly worsened by both the imposing debt and a sharp decline in revenue received from Awadh. He lost a considerable amount of land, palaces, and treasures to the British. According to the media reports, historians suggest the total value of the land, gold, items of value, artwork, and cultural heritage seized by the East India Company and King Akbar could total over Rs 2 lakh crore in the present day. Years later, Wajid Ali Shah's heir, Begum Vilayat Mahal, sought reparations from the government, arguing that the government illegally seized ancestral land. The claims, however, were caught up in legal complications and were never fully resolved. While he lost his kingdom, Wajid Ali Shah is still remembered as an important and exceptional person. His extensive patronage of the arts resulted in a modern Kathak dance form, and took Hindustani classical music to a greater possible level. While he may have lost his kingdom, he has not lost his beauty, his poetry, or his cultural impact; they all remain a part of Lucknow's historical baggage and have helped define the city.
News18
17-06-2025
- Business
- News18
How Rich Was The Nawab Of Lucknow? His Palace Is Worth Rs 10,000 Crore Today
Last Updated: Wajid Ali Shah, last Nawab of Awadh, ruled from 1847-1856 and his Kaiserbagh Palace cost Rs 80 lakh then, equivalent to Rs 10,000 crore today The phrase 'Are you the Nawab of Lucknow?" might sound like a teasing taunt today, but behind the jibe lies a real legacy of unparalleled opulence, cultural grandeur, and royal indulgence. Nearly 250 years after his rule, the name of the last Nawab of Awadh, Wajid Ali Shah, still resonates as a symbol of immense wealth – so vast that modern estimates peg it in the range of thousands of crores. Wajid Ali Shah, who reigned from 1847 to 1856, may have ruled for just nine years, but he left behind a towering legacy; one built not only on palatial architecture and artistic patronage, but also on an economy powered by agriculture, trade, and tax revenues. Though there is no official audit of his wealth, historians and archival records suggest his possessions were nothing short of staggering by any era's standards. Among his most magnificent achievements was the Kaiserbagh Palace complex, constructed between 1848 and 1850 at a then-astronomical cost of Rs 80 lakh. Adjusted for today's value, that figure hovers around Rs 10,000 crore, making it one of the most opulent royal estates of the time. And this was just one of many palaces under his rule. The Nawab's court was sprawling and expensive. It included hundreds of wives, concubines, courtiers, artists, musicians, and servants. His taste for the finer things extended beyond architecture and poetry; he had an exotic menagerie that included monkeys, bears, and no fewer than 18,000 pigeons. His gardens weren't merely decorative, they were stages for grand dramas, elaborate dances, and poetic recitals that showcased the Nawab's deep patronage of art and culture. After the British annexed Awadh in 1856, Wajid Ali Shah was forcibly exiled to Matiaburj in Kolkata. But exile didn't exactly mean poverty, at least not at first. The British government granted him an annual pension of Rs 12 lakh, a significant amount at the time, to sustain his royal lifestyle. However, his expenses far exceeded this amount. According to an 1874 report by a correspondent of The New York Times, the Nawab's residence in Kolkata housed more than 7,000 people including courtesans, bodyguards, pets, and attendants. He even leased additional bungalows to support his lifestyle, indicating that he still retained private wealth even after his kingdom was snatched away. When Royals Fell Into Debt The grandeur couldn't last forever. Along with confiscating much of his wealth, the British government also imposed a colossal debt of £2 million (roughly Rs 20 crore in today's value) on the Nawab. While the pension continued, the burden of debt and the loss of steady revenue from Awadh steadily eroded the fortune. The British took control of many of his lands, palaces, and treasures. Historians believe that the total value of assets seized by the East India Company – including properties, gold, artifacts, and cultural relics – could today amount to over Rs 2 lakh crore. Years later, descendants of the royal family including Begum Wilayat Mahal demanded compensation from the government, alleging that their ancestral properties had been wrongfully confiscated. These demands, however, were mired in legal ambiguity and never resulted in substantial redress. Despite the fall of his kingdom, Wajid Ali Shah remains a legend. His patronage of the arts gave rise to modern Kathak and enriched Hindustani music. And though his crown was taken, his legacy of elegance, extravagance, and poetic melancholy still defines the cultural memory of Lucknow. First Published: June 17, 2025, 18:59 IST
Scroll.in
08-06-2025
- Politics
- Scroll.in
‘A Queer Reading of Nawabi Architecture and the Colonial Archive': Guide to Lucknow's queer history
'… Wargue that the cultural vibrancy of Lucknow was due to its debauched nature. Nawabi architecture materialised – in pleasure palaces, harems, and other spatial types – as a gradual adaptation of existing formal archetypes to accommodate theatricised ways of dwelling; deviant practices of power politics; gender-bending forms of dance, theatre, poetry; and performed non-normative sexuality. The EIC targeted the nawabs' race, gender, sexuality, physical appearance, cultural pursuits, and architectural expression – to refute the nawabs' efficacy as political rulers – gendering the superiority and credibility of a political leader.' When Nawab Asaf-ud-Dawla shifted the capital of Avadh from Faizabad to Lucknow in 1775, he had no idea that he and the last of his successors would turn out to be two of those rulers whom the British loved to hate. Historians still debate why Asaf shifted his capital: some say it was to get away from his mother, Bahu Begum, others that it was to establish a more prosperous city. Whatever the reason, the result was that Lucknow gained a unique culture, some of which survives in its architecture, by way of an independent style that Asaf established during the 22 years of his reign. That style would come to an end in 1856 – the year before the Uprising of 1857 – when the East India Company (EIC) took over the kingdom, and the focal point here is that takeover, for it was done under the cleverly named Doctrine of Lapse, under which the British could decide to take over kingdoms that were either misgoverned, or had no legitimate heir to the throne. And since the Nawab of the time, Wajid Ali Shah, had a son, the British had to establish some measure of misgovernance to justify using this doctrine. With the end of Wajid Ali's rule also ended one of the most colourful periods of India's colonial history. A Queer Reading of Nawabi Architecture and the Colonial Archive looks at the architecture of Lucknow during this period, particularly under the reigns of Asif and Wajid rather than the six nawabs who ruled in between them. The queer influence Post-Independence Indian historians have put forth substantial evidence against British claims of misgovernance by the nawabs. To quote Dr GD Bhatnagar in his book, Awadh Under Wajid Ali Shah, 'Wajid Ali Shah's character was complex. Though he was a man of pleasure, he was neither an unscrupulous knave nor a brainless libertine. He was a lovable and generous gentleman. He was a voluptuary, still he never touched wine, and though sunk in pleasure, he never missed his five daily prayers. It was the literary and artistic attainments of Wajid Ali Shah which distinguished him from his contemporaries.' What these historians have omitted is the queer influence on the culture and architecture of Lucknow. Asaf was an accomplished Urdu poet, and in some of his work, he reveals his longing for men, a longing that the straight-laced British of his time found abhorrent. But that poetry also established the difference between the way most rulers conducted their politics and the way a queer ruler might do it. And so, while this book might be about a queer look at architecture, it also contains a look at the power play amongst four different players towards the end of the rule of the Nawabs: on the British side are the East India Company (EIC) and the Crown, and, on the Indian, the Nawabs of Lucknow and the fading Mughal dynasty. A queer city To start with, the book is divided broadly into two sections, the first about methods and the second about the architecture of the buildings covered. Methods matter, because parts of the city were wiped out in the Uprising. So were some of the writings of the Nawab's historians, and perhaps of the Nawabs themselves. The authors have followed up with many archives: the remaining Lucknow archives, the written works of these two Nawabs, archives of the East India Company and the Crown, and, of course, archives of the Government of India. One of the more appealing illustrations here is a single chart that offers a timeline that shows Nawabs, British Residents, British Governors General, and various plans and sketches of the city, all in one, offering the reader a bird's eye view of the history of the city. The British archives show their contempt for the Nawabs and the queerness of their culture. The British were contemptuous of queers until well into the second half of the 20th century: witness their imprisonment of, say, Oscar Wilde in the 1890s, or their encouraging Alan Turing's suicide in the 1960s. Thus, some of history reflects their resistance to the British: to quote the authors, 'Despite this [contempt], the two nawabs continued to hold their political position through acts of transgression, resistance, and even sometimes by playing ignorant. Both the nawabs furthered an urban cultural environment that rejected macho military standards of politics and embraced arts as central to shaping the city.' The second section covers the actual shape of the city. Covered here in some detail are the major works of Asaf and Wajid: Asif's architectural legacy includes the Machhi Bhavan, the Daulat Khana, and the Bada Imambada, while Wajid's works include the Qaiserbagh, perhaps the most substantial of the precincts covered. The descriptions are illustrated in detail, and the reconstruction of destroyed parts of these buildings is meticulous and layered, which would appeal to the architect. But what appeals to the layman and the historian in the occasional sidelight that livens up the narrative: to quote, again, 'The British army was disoriented by the labyrinthine interiors of the zenana but found its flat roof quite navigable because of its continuity'. And so, for anyone with more than a passing interest in architecture, history, or Lucknow, this book is a small treasure house and a guide to the chequered history of one of the most important cities of the British Raj. Shashi Warrier is a novelist. His latest novel My Name is Jasmine was published by Simon and Schuster India in 2025.
