Latest news with #biodynamic
Forbes
18 hours ago
- Business
- Forbes
How Do You Make Biodynamic Wines? And Why Are They Special?
Clay Wesson of Montinore Estate and Hijinio Mejia Rodrigues preparing manure for cow horn burial, an essential biodynamic process. Montinore Estate Winemaking that adheres to biodynamic principles makes an already difficult, physical and time-consuming process monumentally more challenging. Biodynamic winemaking is a level (or three) beyond organic that relies on everything from applying all-natural compost teas to vines for pest prevention to following the lunar calendar for planting decisions. Clay Wesson, head of viticulture at Montinore Estate, one of the largest biodynamic producers in the country, explains, 'One of the bigger challenges, depending on your scale of farming, is timing of competing tasks that need to be done as well as logistics to pull off all the tasks.' That's a bit of an understatement. Just consider the 'task' list, which includes everything from packing fresh lactating cow manure into cow horns and burying them in the soil for use the following spring to incorporating cover crops and animal husbandry into the viticultural ecosystem. 'There are no shortcuts or quick fixes in biodynamics,' says Mini Byers co-owner of Cowhorn Vineyard & Garden in Applegate Valley Oregon, 'When something goes wrong in the vineyard, we can't just spray a solution and move on. We have to pause, observe, and get to the root of the issue—naturally. That might mean introducing a cover crop, adjusting our compost, or working with a biodynamic preparation.' One thing you can be sure of regarding biodynamic wine—it's as all-natural as you can get. Many argue that it also impacts taste, giving wines more complexity and vitality. For a bit more depth on the work that goes into this viticultural practice I quizzed Mini and Clay about the challenges and the benefits. Rudy Marchesi unpacking compost in spring after burial at Montinore Estate й Andrea Johnson Photography Clay Wesson: One of the bigger challenges, depending on your scale of farming, is timing of competing tasks that need to be done as well as logistics to pull off all the tasks. With more intentionality focused in the vineyard, labor and economics need to be balanced as well with the focus remaining on quality. Mini Byers: One of the biggest challenges is also one of the biggest gifts: time. Biodynamic farming is both time-consuming and, at times, a little nerve-racking. It asks us to be incredibly present—watching, listening, responding—with no shortcuts or quick fixes. When something goes wrong in the vineyard, we can't just spray a solution and move on. We have to pause, observe, and get to the root of the issue—naturally. That might mean introducing a cover crop, adjusting our compost, or working with a biodynamic preparation. It requires trust, intuition, and a lot of patience. But the reward is a vineyard that's healthy, expressive, and alive. Clay: The cow horns are a very important part of Biodynamic Farming in that they are utilized to create two important spray preparations: Biodynamic 500 and Biodynamic 501. The 500 is applied to the soil as a stimulative force in the spring in the fall and the Biodynamic 501 is applied in the spring and summer to the vine and air surrounding it to stimulate vital forces in the vine as well as enhance ripening and flavor of the grape. Mini: One of the most important practices we follow is the creation of BD500. Each fall, we pack fresh lactating cow manure into cow horns and bury them in the soil through the winter, during a time when the earth is 'inhaling' and drawing energy inward. In early spring, we unearth the horns and discover a rich, humus-like compost that's full of microbial life. We then stir it into water in a vortex and apply it to our soil, enhancing root growth, increasing microbial activity, and helping our vines access nutrients in a more natural, balanced way. The cow horn itself is more than a container—it concentrates natural forces and transforms the material inside. Just above the spot where we bury our horns, we built a spiral rock formation, a quiet marker of this sacred, cyclical process. It's why one of our signature wines is called Spiral. Horns and wine at Montinore Estate Montinore Estate Are you able to discern a difference in taste (biodynamic vs. conventional farming of grapes)? Mini: We believe you can—though it's not always about what you taste, but how the wine feels. Biodynamically farmed wines tend to carry a certain clarity and energy. They feel more alive in the glass, more rooted in place. You can sense the vitality of the soil and the health of the vineyard in the depth, structure, and texture of the wine. In our Syrah, for example, there's a groundedness, a vibrancy that we believe comes directly from the way we farm—not forcing, but listening. Clay: I do feel that you can taste a difference at times in the grape as well as wine yet it is important to not allow a personal bias to come in to be objective. I have definitely tasted more interesting wines that are organic and biodynamic wines that I certainly attributed the quality to their practices in the vineyard and cellar. A good friend and consultant friend of mine, Adriano Zago in Italy, has set up blind tasting with not just wine but also other produce grown under different circumstances and points to noticeable differences. It is hard not to be biased to the clean farming practices and attention to detail by the farmers and winemakers to make biodynamic wine so that helps add to the perception and storytelling ability How is it different than organic wine viticulture? Clay: Biodynamic Farming practices build on good farming in general and you have to be 100% organic prior to pursuing Biodynamic Certification. The standards for biodynamics are placed on top of the already rigorous NOP USDA guidelines. That said a big difference is the dedication of 10% of the land you steward to Biodiversity, reducing or eliminating your inputs from "off your farm" in regards to fertility and crop protection, not allowing parallel production (meaning your entire land must be certified, not individual fields/blocks, incorporation of livestock and animal husbandry into your farm. Mini: Organic and biodynamic farming share a lot in common—both avoid synthetic pesticides, herbicides, and fertilizers. But biodynamics goes a step further. It views the farm as a whole living organism, where everything—soil, plants, animals, people, and even cosmic rhythms—are interconnected. Where organics focuses on what not to use, biodynamics focuses on how to nurture. That means we don't just remove the harmful—we actively bring life back into the system using compost preparations, intentional timing, and holistic practices. It's farming that relies as much on intuition as it does on science. And for us at Cowhorn, it's the only way that makes sense—because when the land thrives, the wines do too. Best Biodynamic Wines To Try Now Montinore Reserve Pinot Noir, 2023: Elegant and silky with polished notes of raspberry and black cherry. The wine has a generous mouthfeel but a lovely savory edge. Focused and complex it's perfect now or with a few years on it. it's also a fabulous deal for Willamette Valley pinot at $45. Cowhorn GSM 2021: Generous and fresh on the palate with juicy red fruit notes—just absolutely delicious. 49% Syrah / 36% Grenache / 15% Mourvèdre. $45 Johan Vineyards Murmuration, 2021: Lower in alcohol and made biodynamically, this juicy, fruity blend of Cabernet Franc, Zweigelt, Blaufrankisch and St. Laurent delivers on flavor despite its lightweight profile. Playful and complex, just a lovely wine to enjoy with friends. $30 Cowhorn Syrah, 2021: This is not your Australian version of syrah, but rather a more elegant, delicate expression of the grape that is more pinot noir-like. Dark raspberry, cherry-strawberry notes mingle with a hint of spice and currant. $55 Folly of Man Estate Pinot Noir 2023: One of the debut wine offerings from winemakers Tracy and Aaron Kendall who are alums of venerated wineries Nicolas-Jay and Beaux Frères Vineyards & Winery. Working with estate vineyard fruit from a compelling site that sits in the midst of the Van Duzer Corridor, the couple makes four wines from their 16-acre site. This one shines with bright- high-toned fruit and structured layers of spice and dried herbs. The vines farmed using regenerative, organic, and biodynamic practices. $100
South China Morning Post
12-07-2025
- South China Morning Post
Bordeaux is embracing organic for a different class of red
Bordeaux and bio – the French term for 'organic' – are not words that are often seen in the same sentence. The world-renowned wines from the 7,000 or so chateaux that define this part of southwest France have an image of quality that is based on tradition rather than trends. So it is not surprising to learn that even today, official figures from the Bordeaux Wine Council reveal that only about 25 per cent of Bordeaux wines come from vineyards that are certified organic. Nevertheless, as I discovered on a series of recent road trips, behind the conservative, old-fashioned image, tremors of radical change are rippling through France's most famous vineyards. Innovative vignerons are crossing once-sacred boundaries, not just responding to consumer demand for organic wines , but embracing cutting-edge biodynamic production techniques and the unpredictable zero-sulphites world of natural wines. And it is no longer rare to see terracotta amphorae and ceramic jars standing alongside conventional oak casks. At Château La Grande Clotte, owners Julie and Mathieu Mercier do most of the work themselves, with Julie looking after the vines. Photo: Château La Grande Clotte The Bordeaux vineyards are spread over an area of 110,000 hectares, and to explore these new trends, my designated driver and I travelled through the lavish chateaux of the Médoc, Sauternes and Saint-Émilion, visited wineries in Blaye and Entre-Deux-Mers, and even ventured to little-known vineyards in remote corners of the Bordelais (a term used to describe the wine-growing region around the city of Bordeaux). In addition to families who have been making wine here for centuries, we met dynamic female vigneronnes and enthusiastic newcomers who had abandoned business careers to become winemakers. And for the wine-loving traveller, tourism here has moved on from formal cellar tastings to envelop everything from wellness vinotherapy to vineyard picnics and escape games. Heading north from the city of Bordeaux and along the left bank of the Gironde estuary, we soon reach the prestigious Médoc vineyards, which produce wines that you find in gourmet restaurants around the world: Margaux , Saint-Julien, Pauillac. Each chateau seems more opulent and sumptuous than the last, surrounded by perfectly manicured vineyards – so the anarchic vines of elegant 18th century Château Anthonic, broken up into small plots by hedges, ditches, woods and fruit trees, could not look more out of place.
Forbes
03-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Forbes
In The Vines With Gérard Bertrand, A Biodynamic Winemaker In France
Gérard Bertrand in the vines. Three summers ago, I experienced a festival like I've never experienced before, and fell in love with what I've deemed the best rosé in the world, Clos du Temple (in fact, it changed my mind about rosé in general). Meet Gerard Bertrand—former rugby star turned wine wizard who owns 16 châteaux and wine-growing estates across the Languedoc-Roussillon in the South of France. Bertrand started making wine at 10, balanced rugby stardom with winemaking, then took over the family business when tragedy struck at 22. Today he produces award-winning biodynamic wines and created the most spectacular wine festival you've never heard of: Jazz à l'Hospitalet Festival. Picture six consecutive evenings of wine magic nestled between ancient limestone cliffs and the Mediterranean, where each night kicks off with a grand gala dinner in the château park with stunning seafood platters with freshly shucked oysters, truffle-studded everything, and delicious slow-cooked fish à la chef Laurent Chabert. Each evening has its own dress code, which is so fun to partake in. This year runs July 15-19, 2025, featuring Texas, Ibrahim Maalouf, Earth Wind & Fire Experience, Michel Polnareff, and Christophe Maé with themes from bohemian to retro-funk to vintage glamorous. Château L'Hospitalet Wine Resort Beach & Spa is a 13th-century hospice turned luxury resort—41 rooms, including 28 suites, scattered between the main château and exclusive Villa Soleilla with private pools and Mediterranean views. The property spans 1,000 hectares with heated pools, tennis courts, a world-class spa, and a beach club serving tapas beside the sea from May through September. Small Luxury Hotels recently added them to their collection, and honestly, once you've experienced this level of French art de vivre, everything else feels like amateur hour. Now, back to the wine. I sat down with Gérard Bertrand for the latest installment of In the Vines With to chat far beyond the basics—upcoming projects and more: Jenn Rice: What inspired you to get into winemaking? Gérard Bertrand: I was born and raised in the heart of the Corbières, and I did my very first harvest with my father, Georges Bertrand, at our family estate, Château de Villemajou, 50 years ago. He passed on to me his passion for the terroirs of the South of France and his expertise in viticulture, winemaking, and blending. But above all, he shared with me his vision for the rise of Languedoc and Roussillon wines. JR: Proudest moment as a winemaker? GB: Every harvest has taught me humility more than pride. Over the years, I have deepened my connection with nature and strengthened my commitment to crafting wines that respect life, reflect the soul of our terroirs, and bring people together around the values of harmony, authenticity, and our Mediterranean art de vivre. JR: What is your first wine memory? GB: It goes back nearly 50 years, when I was just 10 years old, taking part in my first harvest with my father and my sister. From the vineyard to the cellar, I followed him closely, listening attentively to every word he said. JR: What are you currently enjoying from your portfolio? GB: At the moment, I take great pleasure in orange wines. Orange wines are made with white grapes like red wines: through skin contact comes the orange color and the aromatic profile of the wine. A dialogue between tradition and modernity that reflects both our sense of innovation and our Mediterranean identity. And I really enjoy discovering new food and wine pairings with orange wines! French Cancan is a joyful expression of orange sparkling wine! Full of freshness and energy. It embodies the festive, vibrant spirit of the South of France, inviting people to celebrate life with elegance but without formality. I enjoy it as an aperitif. Orange Gold represents a more audacious approach. It reconnects with ancient winemaking traditions, using skin contact to give white grapes both structure and complexity. Its amber colour, aromatic depth, and food-pairing versatility make it a wine of great character, very much in tune with contemporary gastronomy. Both wines are organic. JR: A sommelier who's blown your mind with wine pairings? GB: Paolo Basso, World's Best Sommelier 2013, recently impressed me during a Master Class he gave at our Château l'Hospitalet Wine Resort, Beach & Spa. His approach to wine and food pairing is truly inspiring. We were fortunate to have him share his knowledge and passion with our guests. JR: If you could take one wine to an island? GB: It's always difficult when I'm asked to choose one of my wines, because I love them all. You cannot ask a father to pick a favourite child! But to answer your question: La Forge. This red wine is a tribute to my father and to our family's legacy in Boutenac. I love pairing it with a rack of lamb from the Corbières, simply roasted with wild thyme and rosemary, accompanied by seasonal vegetables. It perfectly embodies the Mediterranean art of living. JR: What is your go-to libation when you need a break from wine? GB: I never need a break from wine. JR: The future of wine is... GB: …the best moment of my life. JR: Clos du Temple is my favorite rosé in the world….why is it standout above the rest? GB: Clos du Temple, our iconic rosé, is truly unique. It is crafted in a place that seems almost predestined to produce the finest rosé. In Cabrières, the combination of limestone and schist soils, the Mediterranean climate, and our biodynamic approach create an extraordinary harmony. We work with a selection of noble grape varieties—Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault, Mourvèdre, and Viognier—each bringing its own energy and personality. This rosé is made for ageing. I thoroughly enjoy tasting both young and mature vintages—always an emotional experience. This philosophy of balance, energy, and harmony is at the very heart of my book Multidimensional Wine, where I explore how a deeper connection with nature allows us to craft wines that transcend categories and preconceptions—as Clos du Temple does for rosé. JR: What is your favourite thing about the jazz festival? GB: It's one of my favourite moments of the year. We created this festival 22 years ago. It's a fabulous celebration where wine, gastronomy, and music come together in perfect harmony. Jazz and wine share one essential quality for me: they both speak directly to the soul. JR: Any upcoming projects or events you want to share? GB: We always have many projects. Wine has centuries of history, but still offers so many opportunities for creation and innovation. We have just launched our newest white cuvée, La Grande Bleue, an ode to the Mediterranean. Fresh, mineral, and saline.
Times
18-06-2025
- Entertainment
- Times
South Africa's philosopher winemaker
It's often said of a winemaker that he or she is a philosopher … but Johan Reyneke actually studied philosophy, and when you ask him about his pioneering biodynamic vineyards (the first in South Africa, which he opened back in 2007) or his winemaking techniques or his charitable work, you are as likely to hear about the Indian philosopher Amartya Sen ('if you have choices, you have power') as about grapes or vats or barrels. It isn't hard, standing in his spectacular vineyards in the Polkadraai Hills in Stellenbosch, to see why someone lucky enough to live and work here might want to protect the place. Jackal buzzards wheel, surfing the thermals. The ocean, just six miles away, breathes cool air on to the growing grapes. 'We have found lots of hand axes, made from sandstone and carried here,' he says. 'This place was special for people long before westerners arrived.' Reyneke doesn't do his protecting — or anything, really — by halves. He waves at an unplanted strip, where he has persuaded The Wine Society to fund a wildlife corridor. He talks about sustainability in this region of ancient soils and ruinous high-density grazing and waves towards the spot where he is building a smart winery, using local materials and expertise. Then he takes us back to his farmhouse, with its kitchen at one end and his artist wife's studio at the other, to taste his new wine range. Five single varietal wines, the whites from 2024, the reds from 2023 — all from vines that are regeneratively farmed and hand-harvested, then sold in lighter bottles (to lessen his carbon footprint). The sauvignon blanc is citrussy and so perfumed it could intoxicate you from a foot away. The chenin blanc, from vines nearly 50 years old, has a gorgeous flavour of lemon sponge, but without the sweetness. The syrah is all black plums and thyme, the violet-scented cabernet sauvignon needs a little time. For me, the cabernet franc was the bottle to run off and drink under one of the nearby sweet thorn trees. Leafy, packed with red fruit, subtle tannins and a mineral finish. Yum. It wasn't straightforward to get here, to this wonderful landscape and beautiful wines. Philosophy graduates do not necessarily make great winemakers. 'I knew nothing!' Reyneke says of his younger self, and he had no money either. 'I started in a little cowshed, 50 metres from here, in 1998. I did my punch-downs [the process of breaking up and submerging the solids as the wine ferments] using a broom with the bristles cut off.' The wine, he says humbly, wasn't great. At least I thought he was being humble until he pulled out a bottle of his original cuvée. Through the glass I could see something that looked like it could do with another punch-down. The cork was still in the wine. I hope it stays there. Reyneke learnt on the job. He also formed an unconventional partnership with Rudiger Gretschel of Krone, a highly accomplished winemaker who creates beautiful premium cap classiques (as South African sparkling wines are called) and now his own still wines under his Holism label, high in the Piekenierskloof hills north of Swartland. 'I wanted to learn about biodynamics and he needed to learn how to make wine,' Rudi says. It was a fair swap. His lucky break came when his mother-in-law sent a guest to the B&B he was running for a bit of extra cash. She turned out to be scouting for wines for a big press event in Johannesburg. At the end of the event — and Reyneke is still visibly moved, relating this — security men clustered at the doors and Nelson Mandela walked in. Young and awestruck, Johan joined the meet and greet and, in response to a kindly question from the great man, blurted out that he was a farmer. Then he cursed to himself. An Afrikaans farmer — what could appeal less to Mandela? 'But he smiled gently at me and said, 'Tell me, how are our farmers doing?'' That embracing kindness is something Reyneke displays too. He funds farm kids with potential to go to university. They are also trying to buy houses for workers, although he admits that this is going slowly. Still, 'this is a long-term vision brought to life,' says Valerie Lewis, the marketing director of his UK importer, New Generation. 'Reyneke has played the long game, investing in regenerative, biodynamic farming that not only produces exceptional wines, but restores the soil, supports the land and uplifts the people who work it.' When he was a young farmhand he saw vineyard workers lining their frayed shoes with paper. Now he is an admired winemaker with his name on the bottles, he hasn't forgotten that memory. 'You can't make beauty from ugliness,' he says, the philosopher peeking out again. 'I want this to be a farm wine business with a soul.' Reyneke Estate Series launched on June 3 and is available from The Wine Society (
