02-07-2025
I'm 45 and noticing old acne scars. Are chemical peels worth it?
I'm 45 and recently saw a photo of my face from the side — gasp! I was most surprised by some old acne scars that I can't see when I look in the mirror straight-on. What is the current advice on chemical peels or something similar? Is it worth scraping off a layer of barnacles at my age? I would be interested in trying it once or twice if it will give me a brief confidence boost, but I don't want to commit to anything regular or too pricey. —
Dear Acne Scarred, Ugh. I'm sorry you're dealing with this. I hate it when a younger-me skin issue reappears to haunt my adulthood and make me feel self-conscious all over again — the current problems are enough! I don't need the old stuff too!
That said, the best advice I can give you will not unfortunately be immediately gratifying. The reason for this is that the solution you're looking for is not one-size-fits-all: There are actually several different types of acne scars, and each requires a slightly different treatment strategy to achieve the best results. You'll have to visit a dermatologist to find the right plan for you.
Once there, you'll most likely be advised to try one of the following nonsurgical, mostly noninvasive in-office treatments, all of which work in some way to resurface your skin and stimulate new collagen production, helping to smooth your complexion and fill in areas damaged by scarring.
One big consideration here is your skin tone. Some of these approaches work better for darker skin, some are better for lighter tones. Again, this is a highly personalized treatment plan. Be sure to ask your skin care provider about any risks for your face, especially discoloration.
Microneedling: Microneedling is the least invasive requires the least downtime. In this treatment, a technician uses a device with tiny needles to create tiny injuries on your skin's surface, injuries that send your cells into overdrive to produce new collagen and elastin. Several sessions are usually needed and cost between $200 to $700 each time.
Chemical peels: This is where a concentrated chemical solution like glycolic acid is applied to skin to remove the top layer of dead cells and reduce the appearance of scarring as it goes. These treatments vary in depth and intensity and cost somewhere in the range of $300 to $3,000 per appointment, depending on a number of factors but mainly potency of the peel.
Laser resurfacing: The most expensive (and for many people, the most effective) of the three, laser treatments ring in around $1,000 to $3,000 per session. There are multiple types, including ablative lasers, which remove the top layers of the skin and are best for deeper scars; and non-ablative, which work well for minor scarring and tend to be less damaging to your skin's surface. The best laser treatment for you will depend on a number of factors, including your skin type and tone — and your budget.
Your dermatologist may also recommend things like dermal fillers, which can plump the skin around your scarring and create a smoother appearance, or even Botox, if the skin looks puckered.
In terms of at-home treatments, depending on the severity of your scars, you could try chemical exfoliants at home for a few months — including those with ingredients like azelaic acid — to see if the condition improves. And, of course, sunscreen is always a must, but it's even more important if you have acne scars because the sun can bring more pigment to already damaged skin and make the scarring appear worse over time.
I hope this helps.
