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South China Morning Post
15-07-2025
- Politics
- South China Morning Post
Hong Kong thrives because of, not despite, its hybridity
Feel strongly about these letters, or any other aspects of the news? Share your views by emailing us your Letter to the Editor at letters@ or filling in this Google form . Submissions should not exceed 400 words, and must include your full name and address, plus a phone number for verification On a typical Sunday morning in Hong Kong, you might find a British expat sipping yuen yeung at a cha chaan teng before hiking Dragon's Back, a French architect browsing incense coils in Sheung Wan, or an American banker debating politics over craft beer. This seamless blend of East and West isn't just cosmopolitan charm – it's Hong Kong's unique value to China. As our city adopts more government-led solutions to address capitalism's excesses, we must remember what made – and still makes – Hong Kong extraordinary: the irreplaceable alchemy of individualism and opportunity. The conviction that talent outshines connections. The spirit that birthed Cantopop, Lion Rock grit and a world-class financial hub. As China pursues global leadership, Hong Kong's Western-compatible legal system, cosmopolitan lifestyle and international networks remain indispensable. We don't thrive despite our hybrid identity – we thrive because of it. Since the defeat of the anti-China radicals, official zeal for all things mainland has surged. Ironically, even mainlanders now find Hong Kong less compelling, as its international allure dims. To my local colleagues, Shenzhen had long 'bypassed' us. After working on the Chinese mainland, I saw first-hand what we can't match: vast scale, blistering speed and relentless 'involution'. However, Hong Kong's edge lies elsewhere – in integrity and institutional trust. Mainland firms tend to rise like rockets and crash just as fast; our tycoons know longevity beats spectacle.


Reuters
28-06-2025
- Business
- Reuters
Dublin like a local
A young, creative, international city has emerged from the financial crisis that stopped Dublin in its tracks for the best part of a decade. The warehouses of the Irish capital have been repurposed by international tech companies for their European headquarters, the docks and quays are lined with buildings of glass and steel, and there are new hotels, coffee shops and bars. It is still unmistakably Dublin — with its beautiful Georgian terraces, manicured garden squares, stunning coastal walks and villages that make up some of the prettiest suburbs of any capital city. But now its cobbled streets hum with fresh purpose. I grew up on Ireland's west coast and, after a spell in London, moved to Dublin a decade ago to cover Irish business news and then political and general news for Reuters. The economic catastrophe that befell Dublin after the 2008 financial crisis is a cautionary tale of the dangers of unfettered lending and poor regulation. But reinvented as a modern, cosmopolitan capital that values its people and history, today's Dublin is simply marvellous. Here's how to enjoy this beautifully unruly city like a local: Pubs: Dublin's pubs are essential to the city's cultural and social fabric. They are where friends catch up, colleagues bond after work, and couples meet for dates. Some are loud and busy, others perfect for sitting alone with your thoughts or a book. My favourite is Martin B. Slattery's in the vibrant, eclectic suburb of Rathmines. A wood-paneled pub — that like most classic Dublin watering holes still refuses to serve food — 'Slatts' has a snug at the front, the patrons love to chat, and the Guinness is exceptional. In town, there's the Long Hall, a stone's throw from Dublin Castle, with red-and-white striped canopies. Inside, it's largely unchanged since it opened in 1881. Another Victorian classic is the Palace on Fleet Street. Flowers cascade from hanging baskets outside and an antique lamppost marks the entrance. It is one of the oldest pubs in the city, and a favourite of students from nearby Trinity College and tourists stopping for a pint as they amble towards Temple Bar. It has a strong literary heritage, with poet Patrick Kavanagh and novelist Flann O'Brien among its former patrons. If you're looking for something quirkier, make your way over to the Hacienda on Mary Street, popular with celebrity musicians winding down after a show. Behind its Spanish colonial exterior, it always looks closed — which it is to most people, unless proprietor Shay likes the look of you. He never opens before 8 p.m., but if you think you're the type of punter that Shay will welcome, then press a buzzer at the door marked 'Bar' and wait to see if he'll let you in. The traditional 'session': The Cobblestone in Smithfield is the stand-out choice for quality traditional Irish music. Tucked into a quiet corner of a square that was once known for its bustling livestock market, it is described by its owner as a "drinking pub with a music problem." There is a "seisiún" of traditional Irish music every night — an informal performance by seasoned musicians who gather to play for fun. You will want to get in early to grab a stool by the bar, so you can see the performers in the corner. O'Donoghue's on Merrion Row is a music pub steeped in history and was a favourite of The Dubliners, a traditional folk music group that sold more than thirty million records. The walls are adorned by photos and drawings of the Irish music legends who have played here over the years, and there are music sessions every night. Whelan's on Wexford Street is a must for live music. Major artists that have passed through its doors include the Arctic Monkeys, Damien Rice, Mumford & Sons, and Ed Sheeran, who calls Whelan's one of his favourite venues in the world. To eat: In the years since the financial crisis, Irish food has undergone a significant evolution, moving beyond traditional stereotypes into a modern and innovative culinary culture. Chapter One, Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud, and Liath each have two Michelin stars, and there are five more restaurants with one star. International influences have flourished, creating exciting culinary fusions derived from Asian, Middle Eastern and Mediterranean cuisines. Traditional dishes such as Irish stew, soda bread and Dublin Coddle can still be found at places like the Quays Restaurant in Temple Bar, but my go-tos are the caipirinhas and petiscos at Rei Momo in the centre of town, or the authentic tacos, quesadillas and tamalitos at Suertudo in Ranelagh. The definitive read: In a city seeped in literature, one book dominates: James Joyce's 'Ulysses.' The modernist classic is an intricate portrait of the city on a single day, June 16, 1904 — and the characters' steps are retraced by thousands every year on Bloomsday. A good place to start is the Joyce Tower Museum, on the coast at Sandycove and housed in a Martello tower, a round stone fort built in the early 19th century to defend against a Napoleonic invasion. The tower is the setting for the opening chapter of "Ulysses," where Stephen Dedalus wakes up and begins his day. Joyce himself stayed here briefly in 1904. For the real enthusiast, consider a reading at Sweny's Chemist and Druggist, where you'll be transported into a living page of "Ulysses". A charming, time-capsule of a shop, it is located at 1 Lincoln Place, a short walk from Trinity College. More literary trails: Dublin revels in its literary heritage. Three of the four newest bridges have been named after writers, and you can't turn a corner in Dublin without bumping into a plaque or statue devoted to a writer or poet. The city has been an inspiration for numerous authors, so no visit is complete without a literary tour. Start at Merrion Square, where Oscar Wilde's sculpture cuts a colourful figure lounging on a rock overlooking his family home across the street. "Dracula' writer Bram Stoker lived at the nearby 30 Kildare Street for a time with his wife, Florence. But perhaps the most impressive place on any literary tour of Dublin is Trinity College, home to the Long Room, a 65-metre (213-ft)-long chamber in its library that contains 200,000 of the university's oldest books (currently under restoration). The Book of Kells, a precious ninth century manuscript containing the four gospels of the New Testament, is on permanent display. Swift, Wilde, Beckett, Stoker, and Synge studied here. More recently, it served as a backdrop and symbol of class and identity in Sally Rooney's 'Normal People.' If you're looking for literary Dublin, this is where you'll find it. Getting away: The sea matters to Dubliners. Joyce's characters in "Ulysses" are forever walking, haunted, by the shore. The first Dubliners were Viking raiders who came from across the sea and commandeered a sheltered pool on the Liffey for a winter camp to repair their longboats ahead of the spring pillaging. When Dubliners want to shake off the cobwebs, they head to the coast. Dublin's coastal towns and villages are some of the prettiest suburbs of any capital city and stretch from Howth in the north to Dalkey and Killiney Hill in the south, where U2's Bono and the Edge are neighbours. There are lovely coastal walks and breath-taking views in both directions, all easily reached on the local train, with fares starting at 2.60 euros ($3) for a single adult ticket. To really do Dublin like a Dubliner, the day should start with a bracing swim at Sandycove's "Forty Foot." Imagine a rocky outcrop into the Irish Sea, with waves crashing on concrete steps and brave souls in swimming togs gasping as they dive into the chilly waters. Few urban experiences are as invigorating, and when you emerge, you'll be more than ready to think about the lunch you're going to have in Howth. Located on the north side of Dublin Bay, perched on a rugged peninsula, Howth is a postcard-pretty fishing village you can amble around while picking up fish and chips and maybe an ice cream. I could happily eat every day at any one of the many fantastic restaurants in Howth, but if you like a view with your oysters or mussels, pick Aqua, a beautiful restaurant housed in a former sailing club at the end of the west pier. CITY MEMO DATA POINTS Population: 1.4 million Price of a cup of coffee: 5.10 euros ($5.85) for a cappuccino from Bewley's Café on Grafton Street. Price of a pint of beer: 6.80 euros ($7.80) for a pint of Guinness from Martin B. Slattery's. Great place to see a sunset: The Pavilion, a student bar overlooking the cricket pitch at Trinity College. Best bookstore: Hodges Figgis, a 257-year-old bookseller on Dawson Street.


Irish Times
10-05-2025
- Politics
- Irish Times
In South Africa I see stark evidence of extraordinary income inequalities
Cape Town is a cosmopolitan melting pot. A jumble of creeds, colours and languages, the city is a fusion where it's impossible to define or establish what a true Capetonian 'looks' like. A creation of trading empires – first Portuguese, then Dutch, then British – like most so-called imperial cities, it leans towards liberalism and as much tolerance as might have been possible under apartheid. Its Anglican archbishop, Desmond Tutu , acting in partnership with the secular Nelson Mandela , came to symbolise the morality of resistance. Economically, commercial places like this are rule-makers not rule-takers, adjusting and adapting to whatever history throws at them. Ideas come and go, as do power bases, and the nimble, somehow, survive. In the great cycle of economic history, the majority of the incomers were brought by someone else or running away from some despot, as each empire peaked and troughed. The Indonesians, those from Madagascar and Borneo, were brought as slaves by the Dutch . The Indians and Malays came as bonded labour – British chattel, in effect. The Huguenots were escaping Catholic France, and some Jewish people saw their chance to flee Romanov Russia. This long-term observation about how cycles of economics, commerce, migration and ideology impact profoundly the lives of all of us is reinforced in central Cape Town by a largely unnoticed slab of the Berlin Wall. This tatty eight-foot piece of communist concrete symbolised for locals the understanding that the end of apartheid and the end of communism were inextricably linked. In the great game of 1970s and '80s detente, being 'on our side' was enough. The ANC were Moscow's crowd down here, as were most of the African liberation movements, financed and armed by the Kremlin. READ MORE [ From the archive: The fall of the Berlin Wall led to the rise of Ireland Opens in new window ] On the other side, the Pretoria apartheid regime was used by the Americans as a regional bulwark against Sovietism. As long as there was communism, there would be its despicable antidote, apartheid. And so long as this remained the case, Mandela could rot in Robben Island. Once the Berlin Wall fell, the Kremlin ran out of roubles and the communist threat disappeared. Only at this stage did the last president of apartheid South Africa, FW de Klerk , get the tap on the shoulder from Washington. The game was up for the Afrikaner-dominated apartheid state. Many in the West like to think protests, sanctions and the mass-mobilisation of the anti-apartheid movement was the external catalyst for internal regime-change. It sounds nice, but it isn't accurate. Had the Wall not fallen, the ANC would've remained toxic in America for many more years, and the white South Africans might have clung on for even another decade or more. The world tipped on its axis in those years between 1989 and 1994, and by the time South Africa beat New Zealand to win the 1995 Rugby World Cup the jig was up. Hastily, America scrambled for a new global ideology that would give liberated Africans a pathway to prosperity, replacing Marx. The Yanks came up with the 'Washington Consensus' a jumble of ideas based loosely around the free movement of money, globalisation and deregulation. Mandela himself never bought it, but he played the game. The core notion was that poor Africans would provide ample opportunity for rich Western investors to fuse their capital with cheap African labour, making products that could be re-sold in the rich West. Over time, according to the textbook, prosperity would take off as they got our money and boosted their productivity to create Asian-style growth, not just in South Africa but throughout the continent. Thirty years later, with the world abandoning globalisation, how's this going for Africa? Not great, to be honest. Poverty remains endemic. Recent reports show stagnation. The World Bank warns that real per-capita income is actually 2 per cent below its level of five years ago, and extreme poverty is rising. Economic vulnerabilities like high debt levels are crippling political stability. Coups are a regular reality. In 2023, nearly half of African nations had debt-to-GDP ratios above 60 per cent, with many spending more government revenue on debt interest than on education or health. It is incredibly expensive to produce anything in parts of Africa where infrastructure is in tatters and, without adequate transport, energy and technology, costs are driven up to 50 per cent above the global average, reducing competitiveness. Energy insecurity compounds risk. Less than half of Africans have reliable access to electricity. Closing Africa's energy gap will require $190 billion annually – about 6 per cent of GDP. Climate-related risks, especially in agriculture – a lifeline for millions – further deepen vulnerabilities. In 2022, climate hazards affected more than 110 million Africans and caused an estimated $8.5 billion in damages. As a result, 30 years after liberation, democracy and globalisation, there is hardly any manufacturing. The economy of Africa is still chained to digging stuff out of the ground and selling it as primary commodities to the West, where we transform this stuff into consumer goods. Rare earth minerals and mobile phones are a good example. Rare earths are mined in Africa and put into phones that are made in China under American licence while the intellectual property, the real value, is domiciled in Ireland. Who gets the cream? The Irish exchequer not the African country that owns the essential raw materials. [ The old global economic order is dead Opens in new window ] Obviously, this is an extreme example but it brings it all home – so to speak. When you consider that more than half of the world's babies will be born in sub-Saharan Africa by 2100 by 2100, another 30 years of stagnation is not an option. If it is, these people will move en masse to where they can make a living. Where might that be? Europe, of course. I am in South Africa on an admittedly high- income gig – a book tour. This in itself is evidence of the extraordinary income inequalities in the country. I'm travelling around a bit. Driving in the rural part of Guateng, the province of Jo'burg, two basic technologies dominate the villages at the side of the road, both of which tell local people that there is a paradise out there somewhere. The cheap mobile phone and the ubiquitous satellite dish give impoverished people a view of a rich and comfortable world.