Latest news with #emergingdesigners
Vogue
06-06-2025
- Entertainment
- Vogue
The Six New Swedish Brands You Need to Know
Newness is almost a fetish in fashion, and that has fueled a lot of interest in emerging talents versus new businesses. The buzziest shows of the week—Studio Constance and Past Tense—were created by seasoned designers who have recently gone out on their own and their experience showed. The success of this STHLMFW was in the balance between new ventures by designers who have worked in the industry and the 'ones-to-watch' who are just starting their careers. Meet some of Stockholm's budding stars below. Studio Constance: The Cool Girl- and Guy's New Favorite Brand 'We're not really looking to be a minimal Scandi brand, we're looking to be high quality, high fashion,' asserted Rebecca Dovenryd Almberg backstage after a knock-out debut show that was at once substantial (see the luxe fluffy shearlings) and subtly sexy. Using mesh from Swedish Stockings, Almberg crafted a pair of airy pants with a turn-down waist and a matching top that revealed a sliver of the belly. There was a sense of clothes being peeled off in the way she cut deadstock leather to reveal the suede side, and in outfits that had just one shoulder, by design or by the slip of the strap. Almberg, who worked for Toteme and Proenza Schouler in the past, used yarn left over from her graduation collection at the Academy of Art University in San Francisco to weave panels for cut-and-sew tops with a bit of Flashdance flair. Circularity is Almberg's goal and this is one way she achieved it; another was taking her grandmother's middle name for a brand dedicated to constancy. Past Tense: 50 Shades of Gray—for Men 'Being a Swedish brand, Stockholm Fashion Week felt like something we just had to be a part of,' wrote Victor Lindh in an email exchange. 'We also like to support new initiatives to give back for all the initial support we received as a young brand.' The sophistication of this collection belied the label's newness: It was founded just two years ago by Lindh, who worked with Neil Barrett for many years, and Adrien Forray, who is the business mastermind. The spring lineup, called At Least the Sun Still Shines, was a kind of ambivalent love letter to Sweden's capital city, which is never more enticing than at this time of year. Traditional suiting morphed into shorts dressing and easy looks; and sandals delivered a vacation vibe, even when worn with tailored looks. Imaskopi: Forest Creatures and Cat Charms Cuter Than Labubus Nelly Skog and her mother handknit every slouchy mohair piece that walked down the runway at Imaskopi's show, which was held at the Nordiska, a museum dedicated to 500 years of Nordic culture. There was nothing random about this location: 'I wanted to reconnect to this history of handcraft and connect to that heritage,' the designer said post-show. Live musicians performed some of the Scandic folk music Skog had been listening to as she designed a collection that added some '80s inflections to a 'forest creature' aesthetic. John Bauer's curious trolls came to mind as models with eared hats and knit-covered clogs appeared on the catwalk. Yet fashion isn't all fun and games to Skog, who combined fashion with gender studies at Stockholm University. 'I'm very, very passionate about genderless clothing because I don't really understand how or why we gender clothes. Everything happens when you put them on. [Clothing can be] so many different things on different bodies in different combinations; I think that is what is exciting about fashion.' Leoní: Dressed-Up Minimalism Two years ago Nathalie Schuterman, one of Stockholm's most successful fashion retailers, teamed up with Beckman's-trained designer Filippa Fuxe to launch Leoní, a sophisticated, dressy ready-to-wear brand that also produces one-of-a-kind looks in its atelier. The duo presented their spring 2026 collection at Bukowski's auction house, where artwork and objects from the upcoming Important Spring Sale were on view. It was a complementary pairing as Leoni puts an upscale, polished spin on minimalism. Fuxe spoke beautifully about being inspired by a visit to Kyoto which got her thinking about dressing as 'a form of ceremony.' To that end, she explained that many of the looks can be customized. That was most obviously the case with a black bias-cut skirt which was shown with a length of ivory cloth that was seemingly casually wrapped around the chest and tied at the back. Seams: Where Streetwear Meets Punk One of the youngest participants in Stockholm Fashion Week was 21-year-old Dustin Glickman who was born in California, and lived in St. Louis before moving to Stockholm at age seven. At 16, he started a T-shirt and hoodie brand called Abundant. His luck seems to be just that; in 2023, Nima Lack, who five years earlier had started Seams, a silver jewelry business, tapped Glickman to launch apparel. The result, as the designer said, is 'street wear mixed with punkier elements.' For this season's Seams show, Glickman explained that he 'cast people that do something creatively and that I've met before.' He applied the same principle when pulling together hair and makeup teams. While it's early days for Glickman and Seams, there's a sense he's speaking directly to a community of cohorts. 'I want us to be seen as a Swedish brand, and we are trying to show that [this exists] in Sweden and in Stockholm, instead of just the minimalistic stuff all the time,' he said. Temesgen: 'One Story, Two Cultures' One of the brands representing the African diaspora at STHLMFW was Temsegen. There was a palpable sense of goodwill from the over-capacity crowd that gathered for the brand's debut show, which closed out the week. The label was founded by Jimmie Temesgen Sandberg, who previously worked at Die Monde, a company founded by Togolese-Swedish designer Angelo da Silveira (who was on the fashion week schedule himself with a collaboration with Humana secondhand). In a pre-show exchange, Sandberg said he was after 'an inspired fusion of Sweden and Ethiopia.' The show notes expanded on that idea: 'This collection celebrates the idea that it's not only possible but powerful to carry both sides equally. Equal and Home are not opposites; they coexist. Just like we do.' Living in harmony with nature is part of the deal at Temesgen as well; the unisex lineup was made using deadstock and recycled fabrics, and many pieces, including a smart khaki overcoat, featured Ethiopic script.
Forbes
18-05-2025
- Business
- Forbes
Man-Made Cellulosic Fibers Take Stage At Challenge The Fabric 2025
Swedish designer Petra Fagerström won the $10,000 CTF Award 2025; The Fabric Award, held at Milan's Palazzo Giureconsulti, tasked seven emerging designers with creating one look each using 10 meters of sustainably sourced MMCF fabric. The competition showcased groundbreaking designs that reimagined MMCF—such as lyocell, viscose, and modal—as a renewable, low-carbon alternative to conventional synthetics. By emphasizing material innovation and responsible sourcing, the event demonstrated how next-generation designers are shaping the future of sustainable fashion. The Challenge The Fabric [CTF] Award 2025 was a showcase of groundbreaking and innovative designs from emerging talents who reimagined the potential of man-made cellulosic fibers [MMCF] in fashion. This year's fifth edition, held in the center of Milan at the Palazzo Giureconsulti, challenged seven finalists to create one look each using 10 meters of MMCF fabric provided by leading sustainable material partners from all over the fashion industry. The event highlighted how these young designers are pushing the boundaries of sustainable fashion through material innovation, creativity, and responsible sourcing, giving light to the possibilities for alternative processes. The fifth edition of The Challenge The Fabric Award, held at Milan's Palazzo Giureconsulti, tasked seven emerging designers with creating one look each using 10 meters of sustainably sourced MMCF fabric. The Milan competition challenged seven young designers to create looks using sustainable wood-based fabrics. These man-made fibers, like lyocell and viscose, offer a greener alternative to synthetic materials. The event highlighted how new talent is pushing fashion toward more environmentally friendly solutions. Man-made cellulosic fibers (MMCF) are typically derived from renewable sources that include wood pulp, offering a sustainable alternative to conventional synthetic fibers. Sourced responsibly and processed with eco-friendly methods, MMCFs like viscose, lyocell, and modal significantly reduce fashion's environmental carbon footprint. The fifth edition of The Challenge The Fabric Award, held at Milan's Palazzo Giureconsulti, tasked seven emerging designers with creating one look each using 10 meters of sustainably sourced MMCF fabric. The Milan competition challenged seven young designers to create looks using sustainable wood-based fabrics. These man-made fibers, like lyocell and viscose, offer a greener alternative to synthetic materials. The event highlighted how new talent is pushing fashion toward more environmentally friendly solutions. These fibers are biodegradable, breathable, and versatile, making them ideal for high-performance and luxury fashion applications. The CTF Award has emphasized the importance of responsible production, encouraging designers to work with partners who prioritize sustainable forestry and closed-loop chemical processing for the next generation of designers. The fifth edition of The Challenge The Fabric Award, held at Milan's Palazzo Giureconsulti, tasked seven emerging designers with creating one look each using 10 meters of sustainably sourced MMCF fabric. The seven finalists each partnered with an MMCF innovation leader to create a single, unique outfit and sustainable design. Their work demonstrated the material's adaptability across different fashion disciplines, and a range of fibers available for fashion creatives to work with, creating avant-garde sculptural pieces to refined tailored looks. Petra Fagerström, the winner of the $10,000 prize, collaborated with Sappi Verve & Ecocell using 10 meters of sustainably sourced MMCF fabric. These man-made fibers, like lyocell and viscose, offer a greener alternative to synthetic materials. The event highlighted how new talent is pushing fashion toward more environmentally friendly solutions. Petra Fagerström, the winner of the $10,000 prize, collaborated with Sappi Verve & Ecocell to create a look that impressed the jury with its innovation, commercial potential, and future impact. The Swedish designer is known for her experimental approach to textiles, and her winning design reinforced MMCF's potential in high-fashion storytelling. Ellen Hodakova Larsson [2nd right], founder and creative director of HODAKOVA; Martina Tiefenthaler [2nd left], creative director and creative consultant; Serge Carreira [right], director of the emerging brands initiative at Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode [FHCM]; Gia Kuan [left] of Gia Kuan Consulting, and Riccardo Turrisi [center], the sustainable innovation manager at Kering. The jury for the CTF Award 2025 consists of distinguished professionals from the fashion and luxury sectors. They included Aldo Camillo Gotti, the chief executive of luxury and fashion retail, Andrea Rosso, sustainability ambassador at Diesel, and creative director of Diesel Living. Also on the roster are Ellen Hodakova Larsson, founder and creative director of HODAKOVA; Martina Tiefenthaler, creative director and creative consultant; Serge Carreira, director of the emerging brands initiative at Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode [FHCM]; Gia Kuan of Gia Kuan Consulting, and Riccardo Turrisi, the sustainable innovation manager at Kering. Together, they brought a wealth of expertise in design, sustainability, brand strategy, and innovation to the judging panel. Petra Fagerström; The fifth edition of The Challenge The Fabric Award, held at Milan's Palazzo Giureconsulti, tasked seven emerging designers with creating one look each using 10 meters of sustainably sourced MMCF fabric. The competition showcased groundbreaking designs that reimagined MMCF. Petra Fagerström is pioneering sustainable fashion design with her innovative use of eco-conscious materials and experimental textile techniques. Her award-winning work has earned prestigious accolades including the Hyères Festival Sustainability Award, Chanel Atelier des Matières Prize, and L'Oréal Professional Creatives Award. A Central Saint Martins graduate, Fagerström gained early recognition as an ITS [International Talent Support] 2022 finalist for her Parsons Paris collection, featuring lenticular pleating and military-inspired designs. Her boundary-pushing approach to responsible fashion continues to set new standards in the industry. The fifth edition of The Challenge The Fabric Award, held at Milan's Palazzo Giureconsulti, tasked seven emerging designers with creating one look each using 10 meters of sustainably sourced MMCF fabric. The competition showcased groundbreaking designs that reimagined MMCF. The finalists also included LOUTHER, founded by Olympia Schiele, who partnered with HerMin Textile, explored intimate, sculptural forms, blending her background in product design and photography to create a garment that challenged conventional silhouettes. NUBA, designed by Cameron Williams, working with Birla Cellulose, merged cultural heritage with contemporary tailoring, proving that MMCF can uphold tradition and modernity in menswear. Williams' design fused virgin wool with the Birla cellulose fiber to create a structural cape and gown look ready for a red carpet moment. Oscar Ouyang, in collaboration with Eastman Naia™ Renew, fused East Asian heritage with London's urban energy, demonstrating how MMCF knitwear can carry cultural narratives while remaining innovative through the 'Saint Martins alum's perspective. SHAN HUQ, paired with Lenzing Group, showcased structured, precision-cut designs, reinforcing MMCF's potential in luxury ready-to-wear. Oscar Ouyang; The fifth edition of The Challenge The Fabric Award, held at Milan's Palazzo Giureconsulti, tasked seven emerging designers with creating one look each using 10 meters of sustainably sourced MMCF fabric. The competition showcased groundbreaking designs that reimagined MMCF. Women's History Museum, working with Circ x PYRATEX, explored historical garment references, proving that sustainable materials can be used in archival-inspired, artistic fashion. Zoe Gustavia Anna Whalen, in partnership with CIRCULOSE x SINOTECO, embraced a pre-industrial aesthetic, using discarded textiles to create sculptural, body-conscious designs that challenged modern garment construction. The fifth edition of The Challenge The Fabric Award, held at Milan's Palazzo Giureconsulti, tasked seven emerging designers with creating one look each using 10 meters of sustainably sourced MMCF fabric. The competition showcased groundbreaking designs that reimagined MMCF. "Pre-industrial aesthetics,' Anna Whalen mentions and further explains her Victorian-inspired design. 'I believe historical garment references can still be practical. They represent how we have interacted with clothing for centuries. Contemporary fashion relies on standardized patterns and silhouettes - that's how all clothing today gets made. But my practice exclusively examines pre-Industrial Revolution shapes and my intuitive understanding of body form.' Zoe Gustavia Anna Whalen; The fifth edition of The Challenge The Fabric Award, held at Milan's Palazzo Giureconsulti, tasked seven emerging designers with creating one look each using 10 meters of sustainably sourced MMCF fabric. The competition showcased groundbreaking designs that reimagined MMCF. She continues, 'I've developed my own pattern-making system - my own logic for garment creation. This proposes an alternative to modern fashion thinking - one that's more holistically sustainable. It's not just about changing materials, but transforming how we relate to what we wear and how we conceive clothing for the body." Hosted by Ekman Group and organized with the Swedish Fashion Council, the CTF 2025 design competition was a cross-industry initiative to accelerate the adoption of biobased and recycled materials into larger markets. The two-day event included a symposium on MMCF innovation, where experts discussed sustainable sourcing, circularity, and supply chain transparency through panels and speaking presentations. Oscar Ouyang; The fifth edition of The Challenge The Fabric Award, held at Milan's Palazzo Giureconsulti, tasked seven emerging designers with creating one look each using 10 meters of sustainably sourced MMCF fabric. The competition showcased groundbreaking designs that reimagined MMCF. By connecting emerging designers with leading material suppliers, CTF fosters long-term partnerships that drive real change in the fashion industry. The competition also provided a platform for material innovators to showcase their latest developments, from closed-loop lyocell to recycled cellulose fibers. With support from industry leaders like Lenzing Group, Birla Cellulose, and Sappi Verve, the CTF Award 2025 proved that MMCF is an alternative material for the future of fashion. On display were luxury tailoring and avant-garde sculptural pieces, showcasing the capacity for architectural approaches with eco-conscious, high-performance textiles. As Petra Fagerström's win demonstrates, the fusion of innovation, sustainability, and artistry can redefine fashion's relationship with man-made cellulosic fibers.
CBS News
17-05-2025
- Entertainment
- CBS News
Denver Fashion Week showcases up-and-coming designers, sleek evening wear
Denver Fashion Week is upon us! DFW is a platform for emerging designers, local boutiques, national brands, hairstylists, makeup artists, and models to shine. Its mission is rooted in inclusivity, support, and empowerment for all talents, regardless of race, color, religion, sexual orientation, height, body type, or age. DFW is also designed to help foster economic growth in Colorado's fashion and design communities. CBS CBS CBS News Colorado Anchor Mekialaya White, a fashion enthusiast, served as host for its latest show, called "Society." It spotlighted sleek evening wear and striking silhouettes. Featured designers included RabbitJax, Kit's Boutique, Tyne Hall, Timeless Trend by Ameliah Tene, M. Bolden, MadVan, Tailored Self, and Bête Noire were all featured designers. CBS CBS DFW continues through the weekend, with "Bridal" on Saturday and "Mommy and Me" on Sunday. You can find more information and purchase tickets online.
ABC News
14-05-2025
- Entertainment
- ABC News
First Nations designers and models take centre stage at Australian Fashion Week
It was only four years ago that Juanita Page launched her menswear label Joseph and James. As she watched her models rehearse backstage on Tuesday, the proud Gooreng Gooreng and South-Sea Islander woman felt the pressure mounting as the countdown began for one of her biggest achievements yet. She was moments away from debuting a solo runway show at Australian Fashion Week. "I'm feeling a little nervous, but it's excited nerves," the 33-year-old said. "It's a huge milestone for us as a brand, and to be able to have your name on something like this feels very significant." While this year's Fashion Week celebrated 60 years of Australian fashion house Carla Zampatti, it didn't take the limelight away from emerging designers like Juanita. As she organised the clothing racks she talked about the inspiration behind her latest collection 'Gathering'. "Whenever I'm designing a range, I often think back on what's important to me and my family," she said. "My mum actually named the collection when I was talking to her about it, because I didn't know what to name it, she was like 'it's gathering, that's what it is, that's what we do, bub'. "So it was really nice to incorporate her, even though behind the scenes." Juanita is one of the few female designers behind a menswear label and she's on a mission to redefine the industry. "When I studied for the first time back in 2012, I noticed that everyone was doing womenswear, and it made me think who was designing for anybody else?" she said. "The uniqueness that I can bring to menswear is the freedom that we have as females, as women who grow up going to a friend's place, having a play with other people's clothes, shoes and finding our personal style." Backstage, the 25 models booked to run in the Joseph and James show were prepping for their moment in the limelight. Facemasks. Light touches of makeup. Lots of water and snacks. Three of them were Indigenous men. Several hours ticked by and the men were all dressed and ready to go. The crowd were finding their allocated seats. The lights dimmed and the chatter in the room fell silent as a cultural custom took place, with the following words that set the tone of the show for buyers, influencers and media alike. "Welcome to the traditional lands of the Gadigal clan on whose land we gather on this evening … we welcome you as family and we extend our hand in friendship and embrace you." The room was pristine white and had a different take on the standard layout of a runway fashion show. The models walked in a snake-like pattern around the room. It wasn't by accident, rather a subtle invitation to the crowd to experience the collection just like the models adorning the clothes. "The way we've set out the chairs, everyone's got a front row seat and it's all about sitting across the table from someone, having a nice meal and cherishing those moments," Juanita explained. The 25 outfits showcased by 25 models are rethinking the traditional approach to menswear through a signature look — the elegance of a sartorial outfit blended with the edge of streetwear. "I think we don't readily allow men that freedom and that's what we want to bring with Joseph and James, is allow men to have a play … because clothing is the closest thing that we have to create a sense of who we are outwardly," Juanita said. Swapping the running track for the fashion runway, 21-year-old Calab Law made his catwalk debut as part of the Joseph and James show. "I was super excited but I was a little nervous going into it, but it's nothing I haven't done before," the Wakka Wakka man said. "I've run in front of dozens of people, so it was something pretty similar to that." Calab represented Australia in the 2024 Paris Olympics, competing in the 200m and the men's 4x100 m relay. This week, Calab wanted to challenge himself in a different way. "When you do the same thing for 10 years, you got to mix it up a bit," he said. "I thought this (running) can get boring, so (my brother) was like, 'go do modelling, it's fun and you get to do stuff like this'." Standing backstage after the show — along with fellow models who also walked the runway with straight posture and exaggerated strides — Calab and the others were buzzing from the high of what they had just done. But Calab couldn't help but reflect on what it means to be a First Nations person in the industry. 'If you're Indigenous, you're beautiful, everyone should be models,' he said. "I think there should be representation everywhere, just like sport, just like modelling, so I think it's amazing.' Nineteen-year-old Shamaiah Sullivan is no stranger to the runway. It's her third-year walking at Australian Fashion Week. Shamaiah fell into modelling about six years ago after seeing the lack of representation in the entertainment industry. "I was watching Home and Away with mum and I felt as though there were no Indigenous people on the show," she said. "From that, I wanted to get into acting, then I was like, 'hold on, I don't feel like there is enough people that look like me in the fashion industry', and it just went from there." With more Indigenous representation in the fashion industry, Shamaiah believes the world could learn more about First Nations people. "Fashion is so objective, so everyone has an input, everyone has an opinion, everyone sees fashion," she said. "That would be a good way to let the world know who we are and what we represent, what we do and our stories and where we come from." Backstage at Ngali's headquarters, there is a tight schedule to get hair and makeup done. The atmosphere is buzzing with hair-dryers and cosmetics galore — the crew have been there since 8am, preparing models for their big show. Over in the dressing room, volunteers are hovering around, organising the racks for 25 of Ngali's models and steaming their clothes. When it comes time for the models to get changed, the volunteers fit them before the head stylist gives the final tick of approval and they walk out onto the runway. The earthy tone of the Australian landscape is hard to miss. It's reflected in the model's makeup and Ngali's latest collection 'The Yawa: Journey Collection'. Proud Wiradjuri woman Denni Francisco said she drew inspiration from the traditional country of different First Nations people across Australia and their respective cultures. "Culture plays a really powerful component of what it is that we do, it's why Ngali was started," she said. "The collection itself that is showing on the runway today is the bringing together of the artist's artwork, the translation of those artworks. "But [it's] also the incredible colours that get offered up on our gumtrees all around Australia, so it brings culture and country together." Ngali has returned to Fashion Week after gracing the runway on the world stage at Milan and Jakarta Fashion Weeks in 2022. "That was pretty awesome, it started a conversation with people from all different places around the globe about 'who are Australia's First Peoples'," she reflected. "Fashion is a great medium for sharing those stories." Just after midday, the runway show began, led by First Nations model and actress, Charlee Fraser. Watching in awe, the audience filled the room and spilled out to the corners. As the show came to a close, the grand finale held a spotlight on the 10 First Nations models featured in the show. For Ngali, this was about visibility and celebrating the richness and beauty of First Nations culture — from the artwork used in the collection, to the sounds of the didgeridoo playing in the background, to the models taking centre stage.
