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Yahoo
07-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Yahoo
Imane Ayissi Fall 2025 Couture: Natural Woman
Named 'Ikorrok' after the Ewondo word for 'fallow,' Imane Ayissi's fall collection was an ode to nature and a reminder of its powers of renewal, a notion he brought to fruition in a vivid display of silks, hand-dyed cottons, wool felt and his signature raffia with a medley of playful embellishments. 'I love taking something 'brut' and working with it to give it its letters of nobility, the way I do with raffia, which is a very rustic material, to sublimate it without using glitter and all the bling usually associated with luxury,' said the designer backstage before his show. 'I love starting with something basic and bringing it to life.' More from WWD Hailee Steinfeld Embraces Bold Cutouts and Dramatic Bows in Sheer Dress for Tamara Ralph Fall 2025 Couture Show in Paris Hailee Steinfeld Gives Classic Hollywood an Edge in Dior Pumps at Tamara Ralph's Fall 2025 Couture Show Cardi B Embraces Sculptural Shoulders and Fringe Pearls for Schiaparelli Fall 2025 Couture Show in Paris Against a backdrop of sharp, classically inspired silhouettes in a rainbow of brightly hued textiles, that was exactly what he did, delivering a collection that appeared abuzz with movement. In perfect alignment, most of the materials he used were biodegradable, intended to ultimately return to nature and regenerate it. Delicate flowers in white porcelain by French sculptor Aline Putot-Toupry adorned the front of a raw-edged wool felt jacket in bright fuchsia, worn over a matching draped slip. Thousands of multicolored beads formed vertical stripes down dresses in a range of shapes to look like swarms of tiny insects, with more literal critters serving as the shimmering buttons on tailored silhouettes here and there. Dainty beaded fringe-work resembled shivering dew on a spider's web, on a striking tie-dye jumpsuit with a cinched waist and sharp silhouette, for instance. Ayissi styled his designs with elbow-length gloves in a broad array of colors or giant felt discs by way of earrings, accentuating his singular aesthetic and innovative textile choices. Launch Gallery: Imane Ayissi Fall 2025 Couture Best of WWD Windowsen RTW Spring 2022 Louis Shengtao Chen RTW Spring 2022 Vegan Fashion Week Returns to L.A. With Nous Etudions, Vegan Tiger on the Runway


Vogue
29-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Vogue
Rodarte Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection
The Rodarte fall collection began with a singular hue. 'It all started with this lavender dove gray color that we wanted to work with, and that basically told the story of just wanting something that felt gothic and moody,' said Laura Mulleavy. 'When you think of these gothic stories you see a moonlit color palette, and I think we were thinking about seeing color through moonlight.' The light shade of gray did indeed evoke the moon, on soft voluminous charmeuse mutton sleeves, and on a gathered chiffon caftan whose ruffled hem gently pooled around the model like a cloud. The palette extended to a midnight crimson red, an otherworldly mint green, and the blackest black—from velvet. The lineup of dresses was imbued with the Mulleavy sisters' signature romanticism and playfulness—albeit in a more austere form than recent collections. That's not to say that the designers shied away from embellishment, but rather that their opulence glowed subtly from within, as opposed to blinding with razzle dazzle. White lace appliqués decorated bodices and delicately trimmed necklines and collars that at times hinted at a monastic feeling; the direct opposite of a simple slip dress was embellished with glitter, and another strapless column was made from sequined crochet. 'It was really fun to pick materials that felt like they created texture [and light] within themselves,' said Laura. 'Most of the dresses are not shiny, so it was the idea of seeing what would happen if you had a window and you're staring at someone and your only source of light is the moon.' 'For us, it's always been so personal; what we put forth is whatever inspires us in the moment,' added Kate. 'I always felt the person that was choosing something of ours also had an emotional attachment to it—I always think, when you can have anything you want in the world, why are you choosing this one dress?' The final gown, with its lace appliquéd Victorian bodice, princess sleeves, and white-on-black floral inlay fabric that looked as if it could glow in the dark seemed to answer that question.