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Times
04-07-2025
- General
- Times
The 15 biggest kitchen myths
I love the idea of treasured recipes and kitchen wisdom being passed down through the generations — the handwritten notes in the margins of old cookbooks, the whispered tip from grandma about the 'right' way to make pastry, the family belief that gravy must always be stirred clockwise. These traditions give cooking its soul. But the truth is, times change. A better recipe comes along, a quicker technique makes life easier, or science quietly debunks what we always thought was gospel. And yet some of these so-called golden rules just won't die. They are passed on reverently, like folklore — repeated at dinner parties, printed in cookbooks, even taught at cookery schools. The trouble is, a lot of them are just plain wrong. Having spent my entire working life in the kitchen, as a food writer, editor, recipe developer and chef, I've had endless opportunities to test these beliefs for myself. And in many cases, I'm astonished they still hold sway. It's time to separate fact from fiction, tradition from truth, and do a little culinary myth-busting. It's true that 99 per cent of the time you don't need to. Most things — roasts, cakes, bread, cookies, pastry, casseroles and ready meals — can successfully (and safely) be cooked from cold. Put the dish in a cold oven and as it heats up, so does the food. It starts gently, then quickly catches up. Depending on your oven, just add 6-8 minutes to the cooking time and as ever, check food is properly cooked before serving. The sourdough guru and bestselling author Elaine Boddy has been on about this for years. 'Preheating is madness — so wasteful and pointless. I receive so many messages from people who don't believe it'll work, then try it, bake perfect loaves and swear they'll never preheat again.' So why do recipes and pack instructions tell us to preheat? Because cooks have come to expect exact timings, and the only way to achieve this is to start with a level playing field: a preheated oven. You can also save yourself even more energy by switching the oven off five minutes before the end. • Read restaurant reviews and recipes from our food experts This is a ceremonial habit in many kitchens, but mostly unnecessary. Modern flour is uniform, finely milled and bug-free. Experiments by the science food writer Harold McGee show that sifting has little to no effect on texture. You'll save yourself mess and washing up by giving it a quick whisk instead. Don't throw away your sieve just yet, though: cocoa powder and icing sugar clump and genuinely do need sifting. Obviously, if you keep opening and slamming your oven door, it will struggle to maintain temperature. But soufflés, cakes and even Yorkshire puddings are more robust than we give them credit for. It's absolutely fine to rotate the tray at half-time or test things by prodding towards the end. The one exception I've encountered is gougères; delicate choux pastry puffs that featured on the menu when I cooked in France. A few years ago I demonstrated the recipe at a large food festival. The celebrity chef with whom I was sharing the stage opened the oven door as a joke, and my point was proved. It sank. It's fine to put stainless steel serrated knives, such as paring or vegetable knives with plastic handles, in the dishwasher. Resin-handled or ceramic knives are another matter, however. It's not that you'll blunt them, but they are not designed to withstand the dishwasher's rapid heating and cooling cycles or harsh detergent. Wash by hand — it takes seconds. As Axel Steenbergs of Steenbergs Organic (the UK's leading organic herb supplier) explains, this isn't necessarily the case; it depends on the herb. 'The woodier the original plant, the more likely it is to retain its flavour — think bay, thyme, rosemary and lavender. Leafy herbs like basil, chives, chervil and parsley are better fresh, especially if they are from your own garden rather than the supermarket.' There are some exceptions — dried dill is one of Steenberg's favourites. As for oregano, dried is infinitely more flavourful. Steenberg also advises using fresh herbs for bright summer dishes and salads and switching to dried in winter. There is a myth that extra virgin olive oil is automatically better than other oils, in all contexts. It isn't — not for flavour (except when you want an olive flavour), and not for cooking. It is perhaps the best all-round oil from a health point of view, although rapeseed gives it a run for its money. Because it's unrefined, Evo (as it's known in the trade) retains far more of the olive's natural flavour — grassy, peppery, often with a bitter tang. That's desirable in dressings and drizzles, but often too assertive if you're making something like mayonnaise, where a milder or neutral oil is more suitable. Then there's the warning that Evo is bad for non-stick pans. Some manufacturers do advise against it (the low smoke point can cause the oil to carbonise and build up residue) so check care instructions when buying. My pan is a Scanpan (and is the best I've ever had) and I use Evo for all Italian recipes; the scent of the oil as it warms is una goduria — pure pleasure in a pan. • Seven olive oil recipes — this summer's favourite ingredient One of many myths surrounding pasta. About 250g dried pasta actually cooks perfectly in as little as 1 litre of water (add 1 teaspoon salt), or 500g in 1.2 litres (add 1½ teaspoons salt). You just need to watch that it doesn't boil over. Even more radical, you can start dried pasta in cold water then bring it to the boil; simply add 2-3 minutes to the time it says on the pack. Best of all, here's the way I do it. Add the pasta to boiling water, bring it back to the boil, pop on the lid, turn off the heat and leave it for the time it says on the pack. And don't add oil to pasta cooking water — it's messy and a waste of oil. Instead, stir the pasta often until the water comes back to the boil, after which there's no need because the bubbling water will stop it sticking. Finally, fresh pasta is not superior (or inferior) to dried, it just cooks quicker and has a slightly softer texture. And I find cream-based sauces (such as alfredo) stick to it better than dried. That might have been true once, but not any more. There are good reasons to choose unsalted: you might prefer the taste (especially with artisanal or cultured varieties) or wish to reduce salt intake. If a recipe specifies unsalted butter, then tells you to add a measured amount of salt, it's because the writer is aiming to control the salt level precisely or they persist in the old-fashioned belief that unsalted is inherently better. Smaller eggs tend to be laid by younger birds, at the peak of health, and are excellent quality. The yolks are proportionately larger than the yolks in bigger eggs, and the whites tend to be less watery. Yet because recipes often specify large eggs, people often turn up their noses at small and medium. The result? Hens are put under increasing pressure to lay larger and larger eggs through multiple husbandry techniques. Pressure is the word: large eggs can be painful and exhausting for the hens. Jane Howorth, the founder of the British Hen Welfare Trust, urges shoppers to buy mixed-weight boxes instead. 'The farmers and hens will thank you, and you'll get more yolk for your buck.' Plus, if you're following a recipe, switching egg size is unlikely to throw it off. As for the 'should I store eggs in the fridge?' debate — yes, they keep better. Ideally remove half an hour before using, or float them in a bowl of warm water for a few minutes. This is not the case — however, it does make the meat much tastier. The process doesn't seal anything in — in fact, some moisture is lost — but this doesn't mean the meat ends up dry. Juiciness comes from not overcooking and letting the meat rest. Just be sure to keep the heat high, so the surface browns quickly without stewing in its own juices. As the food writer and broadcaster Tim Hayward explains in his book Steak: The Whole Story, searing causes meat fibres to release amino acids and sugars. When exposed to high heat, these compounds trigger the Maillard reaction, creating that rich, savoury crust we associate with sizzling steaks, chops and barbecue favourites. Keep going and sugars begin to caramelise, adding depth and sweetness. Recently, disenchanted by a run of garlic that was mouldy or sprouted before its time, I tried prepared garlic cloves, the kind that are peeled for you and come chilled in tubs. They are a bit more expensive, but the cloves are large, fresh and juicy. I used them to make a batch of hummus, which my husband tells me I never make garlicky enough, and it was deemed the 'best ever'. I won't be going back to fresh. Who came up with this? Salting early, either in the soaking or cooking water, improves texture and flavour and allows the seasoning to penetrate the bean, not just coat the surface. If your beans are too hard, they are out of date, or you live in a very hard water area, or you've added acidic ingredients (tomatoes, vinegar, lemon juice) too early. • The perfect prawn cocktail and seafood recipes for summer It reduces it, but doesn't eliminate it. In a long-simmered boeuf bourguignon, about 5 per cent of the alcohol remains. In quick-flamed dishes such as crêpes suzette, as much as 75 per cent remains. The quantities of wine or cognac used are unlikely to get anyone drunk, but it's worth knowing if someone has an allergy or avoids alcohol for other reasons. Overheating will ruin chocolate, but by far the commonest cause of seizing — when chocolate turns lumpy and grainy — is water getting in while it's melting. Even the smallest amount (like from a damp wooden spoon) can make the sugar clump up and break the emulsification, ruining the smooth texture. The fix, which may seem counterintuitive, is to beat in more water (teaspoon by teaspoon, hot or cold) until it becomes smooth again. You may need to fiddle with your recipe to take account of this, but at least the chocolate is saved. As a guide, you'll need to add up to 1 tbsp water per 100g chocolate. Melting chocolate in the microwave rather than over a pan of hot water also minimises the risk. If you've seen the guck left in the water after washing mushrooms, you wouldn't want to eat it. Furthermore, McGee's experiments showed that they absorb very little water from washing, and if they are fried correctly over high heat you'll never know the difference. 'Never crowd the pan' is also nonsense. Mushrooms reduce enormously in volume when cooking, so pile them in and keep stirring and tossing to get them brown all Murrin is a former editor of BBC Good Food and the founder of Olive magazine. His latest novel, Murder Below Deck, is published by Bantam. He has a lifetime achievement award from the Guild of Food Writers. @orlandomurrinauthor;
The Guardian
04-06-2025
- Health
- The Guardian
Fresh produce made bold with pantry staples: two recipes to spice up winter
Looking for a recipe that warms the body and soul, or one with knockout flavours you can pull together midweek? Cookbook author, food writer and chef Lara Lee insists you don't have to choose. 'My food philosophy is: lean into the time you have,' Lee says. 'If you have a weekend, then make the soul food that brings you joy, and if you have a window of 30 minutes, you can still make an amazing meal.' Either way, Lee's hot tip is to spice up fresh produce with condiments. 'Cooking doesn't have to be overly complicated, and it helps to have a well-stocked pantry,' she says. 'There are certain staples, like soy sauce, rice vinegar, miso paste or chilli oil – accessible ingredients you can pick up at your local IGA – that transport fresh ingredients.' There aren't many people who need convincing that lasagne is one of the greatest dishes, but many of us do need a little extra encouragement to get this labour of love on the table. These thoughts motivated Lee to reinvent this much-loved classic. 'I was thinking that kimchi and cheese is an incredible pairing; it's so comforting and mouthwatering,' Lee says. 'So, I got inspired by the idea that kimchi lasagne is going to do some breathtaking things.' The proof is in the oozy umami decadence. 'It's the kind of dish that people will talk about for months after,' Lee says. At the other end of the culinary continuum, Lee uses pork mince, instant noodles and an aromatic sauce lifted with orange zest to deliver quick, flavour-packed results. 'I'm a huge fan of pork mince,' she says. 'To me, pork is life! It has so much flavour. Combine it with noodles and the bold, punchy sauce, and you've got a dish with real depth and complexity, ready in just 15 minutes.' Whatever time you've got, Lara Lee's recipes promise home-cooked comfort this winter, with a kick. Photo supplied. Prep 20 minCook 30 minServes 8-10 people Ingredients For the kimchi sauce 1 tbsp olive oil 250g lean beef mince 6 garlic cloves, peeled and minced 450ml tomato passata 1 tbsp fish sauce 600g kimchi, roughly chopped¼ tsp fine salt ¼ tsp ground white pepper For the bechamel sauce 2½ cups whole milk 70g unsalted butter 6 anchovies ½ cup plain flour 2 tbsp gochujang 200g cheddar cheese, grated3 spring onions, thinly sliced, plus extra for garnish¼ tsp fine salt 6 fresh lasagne sheets 100g parmesan cheese, grated Photo supplied. Method Preheat the oven to 220C fan. To make the kimchi sauce, heat the oil in a large frying pan on a medium-high heat. Add the beef mince and cook until browned, stirring regularly, for four to five minutes. Add the garlic and cook for a further minute, stirring to combine. Stir in the passata and fish sauce, then cook for two to three minutes until slightly thickened. Add the kimchi to the pan and cook for two minutes, stirring to combine. Season with the salt and white pepper, then remove from the heat. To make the bechamel, warm the milk in a medium saucepan on a medium-low heat until just warmed through, then remove and set aside. Wipe the pan, then add the butter and anchovies on a medium-low heat. Lightly mash the anchovies with a wooden spoon as they melt with the butter, stirring for one to two minutes. Add the flour and mix for one minute, until fully incorporated. Add half a cup of the milk and stir vigorously, using the back of the wooden spoon against the side of the pot to smooth out any lumps. Once all lumps are removed, add the remaining milk, stirring continuously as you pour. Increase the heat to medium, stirring occasionally until it thickens, about six to eight minutes. Add the gochujang and stir for one minute, then remove from the heat. Add the cheese, spring onions, and salt, stirring until the cheese melts, which takes about one minute. In a 20cm x 30cm baking dish, spread one cup of kimchi sauce over the base. Evenly top with two fresh lasagne sheets; it's OK if they overlap. Spread the sheets with 1½ cups of kimchi sauce, then cover the kimchi layer with one cup of bechamel sauce. Add two more lasagne sheets on top, then spoon over the remaining kimchi sauce and one cup of bechamel sauce. Layer the remaining lasagne sheets on top. Finally, cover the sheets with the remaining bechamel sauce and sprinkle generously with parmesan cheese. Place the lasagna in the oven and bake it uncovered for 30 minutes, until the cheese is browned and the sauce is bubbling. Remove from the oven and cool for at least 10 minutes to allow the lasagne to set. Sprinkle over the remaining spring onions to garnish. Use a sharp knife to cut the lasagne and serve hot with a side salad or vegetables. Photo supplied. Prep 15 minCook 10 minServes 2 people Ingredients For the chilli crisp sauce 3 tbsp chilli crisp with the oil 1½ tbsp rice wine vinegar 1 tbsp soy sauce 1 tbsp white miso 1 tbsp tahini 1½ tsp sesame oil ½ tsp white sugar Zest of 1/4 medium-sized orange For the crispy pork 2 tbsp neutral oil, such as canola or peanut oil250g lean pork mince 2 garlic cloves, peeled and minced 2 tsp ginger, peeled and grated½ tsp fennel seeds ½ tsp ground cumin ½ tsp ground coriander 2 x 85g packets of instant noodles, such as Indomie or Maggi (noodles only; save the flavour sachet for another use) Small handful of coriander leaves Small handful of crispy fried shallots Photo supplied. Method In a medium bowl, combine all ingredients for the chilli crisp sauce and stir well. Set aside. Bring a medium saucepan of salted water to the boil. Heat a medium frying pan over high heat with the oil. Once hot, add the pork mince and cook until it begins to turn golden brown, stirring regularly for five to six minutes. Reduce the heat to medium and add the garlic, ginger, fennel seeds, ground cumin and ground coriander. Cook until fragrant, stirring often for one to two minutes. Remove from the heat. Add the instant noodles to the boiling water and cook according to the packet instructions. Drain, reserving a little of the cooking water. Divide the chilli crisp sauce and crispy pork between two serving bowls, then add one tablespoon of noodle water to each bowl. Divide the noodles between the two serving bowls. Just before serving, mix well to combine, and garnish with the coriander leaves and crispy shallots. Shop for fresh, seasonal ingredients at your local IGA. IGA is the Australian launch partner for the Guardian's cooking and recipe app, Feast. Download Feast on the App store for Apple iOS or Google Play for Android to follow each of these recipes step by step.
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Travel + Leisure
01-06-2025
- Health
- Travel + Leisure
I'm a Paranoid Traveler Despite Having Been to 30+ Countries—but These 13 Safety Devices Give Me Peace of Mind
I have lived in New York City my entire life, so you'd think I feel safe traveling just about anywhere. But despite spending over four decades in one of the world's most famous metropolitan cities, I still get pretty paranoid in my work as a food and travel writer. I love traveling. But as much as I enjoy these experiences, I'm also acutely aware of what can go wrong on the road, especially as a solo traveler. Maybe it's my NYC street smarts disguised as travel anxiety, but I've learned to be vigilant about personal safety, identity theft, and protecting my devices from data breaches. If you're gearing up for your next big adventure, it's smart to plan for all the fun—delicious food, great sights, and unforgettable memories. But it's just as smart to prep for the not-so-fun stuff. That's why I always travel with a few tried-and-true travel safety essentials. On long travel days, I'm constantly scanning for power outlets before my phone dies. But public charging stations can come with hidden risks. 'Juice jacking' is when hackers exploit USB ports to install malware or steal data, and it's a real threat. This simple tool allows you to safely charge your devices without exposing your data. It works with iPhones, Androids, tablets, and most USB gadgets. One reviewer said, 'I use these at hotels, on airplanes, and when I don't want my phone transferring data to a rental car. Easy and effective.' This sleek laptop backpack checks all the boxes. It's spacious, lightweight, and built with anti-theft features like combination-lock zippers and an external USB port—so you won't have to unzip the bag to stay connected. One reviewer called it 'the best backpack ever,' adding that 'it's secure, durable, and the slim fit makes it easy to carry without feeling bulky.' These slim sleeves might look like simple card covers, but they're an essential line of defense against digital theft. RFID-blocking technology shields your credit cards, IDs, and passports. 'I had to replace multiple cards due to unauthorized charges,' wrote one reviewer. 'These sleeves give me peace of mind.' As a digital nomad, I rely heavily on public Wi-Fi, and that comes with risks. This compact travel router boosts cybersecurity by creating a secure, private connection. 'This will make business travel a lot easier,' said one reviewer. 'Now I can safely connect my laptop using the hotel's Wi-Fi without worry.' These multi-sized Faraday bags go beyond waterproofing. They also block Bluetooth, GPS, and RFID signals to keep everything from your phone to your passport secure. 'I tested Wi-Fi, cellular, and Bluetooth—these bags blocked all signals,' said one shopper, who promptly bought another set. Hidden cameras are, unfortunately, a real concern in hotel rooms and Airbnbs. This compact detector scans for hidden bugs, GPS trackers, or listening devices. 'I couldn't be happier,' said one reviewer. 'It's easy to use, very sensitive, and makes me feel much safer when traveling solo.' Money belts may feel old-school, but this RFID-blocking pouch is a smart, modern upgrade. Slim enough to wear discreetly, it has mesh pockets for cards, passports, and cash. One reviewer shared, 'It's comfortable even on hot, long travel days, and the organization is ideal.' Whether I'm writing in-flight or catching up on emails at a cafe, I don't want my screen exposed. This easy-to-attach privacy screen limits viewing angles, helping to keep my personal and financial info safe. One reviewer called it 'subtle yet sturdy,' and they love how easily it attaches via magnets. Power = safety. This fast-charging portable battery can get your phone to 50 percent in under 30 minutes—perfect for calling an Uber or accessing maps when you're far from a power outlet. With a built-in USB-C cable, it's compact and hassle-free. 'I bought two for overseas travel—sleek, powerful, and so convenient,' said one reviewer. Sometimes I find myself walking alone at night while traveling, and this compact safety alarm gives me peace of mind. Just pull the top pin to activate a siren and flashing light. 'It's a small step that makes a big difference,' said one traveler. 'I keep it on my keychain and bring it everywhere—gas stations, airports, even grocery stores.' Not every hotel room has a safe, and this portable lock box is a solid backup. It's great for securing passports, cash, and even small electronics. With a combination lock and sturdy design, it's a travel must-have—especially if you're hopping between accommodations or hostels. It's a travel conundrum: You want your luggage secure when it's out of sight—but it still needs to be accessible for TSA inspections. This lock does both. It's TSA-compliant, easy to set up, and built to last. The best part? It features an indicator that pops up if TSA has opened your bag, so you're never left wondering. Amazon shoppers rave about the thoughtful design and solid construction. 'Wow, just got a four-pack of these TSA locks and love the design,' wrote one reviewer. 'Easy to read, easy to set combination, easy to operate. Solid design, good looking, and even a pop-up indicator if a TSA agent opens one with their special tool.' From minor scrapes to unexpected mishaps, it pays to be prepared. This compact, well-stocked kit is perfect for travel—whether you're tossing it in your suitcase or slipping it into a tote. It includes everything from bandages to burn relief, all packed in a cute, durable pouch. 'Exactly what I was looking for,' one Amazon reviewer noted. 'Perfect size, fits in my large purse, and has everything I might need. Plus, the bag is super cute. So worth it.' Love a great deal? Sign up for our T+L Recommends newsletter and we'll send you our favorite travel products each week.
Telegraph
29-05-2025
- Business
- Telegraph
Being called a nepo baby is hurtful, says Sainsbury's great-granddaughter
A food writer who is related to the supermarket Sainsbury family has called being described as 'a nepo baby ' unfair. Ella Mills, a blogger known for her recipe blog and brand Deliciously Ella, is the great-granddaughter of Lord Alan John Sainsbury, of the supermarket-owning family. She told Good Housekeeping UK magazine: 'I passionately wanted to do Deliciously Ella on my own. Of course, it didn't take journalists long to link the dots and I felt so bad in retrospect. 'I knew people would say I was just a nepo baby, but you don't sell 100 million products because 40 years ago Sainsbury's went public. At the same time, having that connection meant I had a subconscious wish to do something quite different, against the odds, as my great-grandfather had done.' In the mid-2010s, Mills was touted as a pioneer of the 'clean eating' movement, despite telling a magazine in 2016 that 'I would never use the word 'clean''. The concept, promoting minimally processed foods, was controversial, with Nigella Lawson telling BBC Radio 4's Woman's Hour that 'behind the notion of clean eating is an implication that any other form of eating is dirty or shameful'. During this time, Mills received backlash for her gluten, meat and dairy-free recipes, as well as her personal wellness journey, which was associated with the clean eating movement. She told the magazine: 'It [the backlash] was instigated more by the media than by social media. I don't have it as bad as some people who've been trolled, but I'm aware that a fair share of people don't like me, for sure. 'I accept that if you have a public platform and you share your opinion with the world, the world is quite right to have an opinion back. If I can help people to eat more plants and have a more natural diet, then that's more important than anything a troll can say about me. 'You have this bizarre, quite ironic dichotomy – as our collective health gets worse, the wellness industry gets bigger, noisier, more confusing and more niche. If you go online, people are following these extreme morning routines, achieving so much by 9am. Plants 'changed my life' 'My concern is that too many people think that their health is synonymous with expensive powder and wildly elaborate routines. Everything I suggest is evidence-based. It's not about gimmicks or fads. I changed my diet [to plant-based] and it changed my life.' In the summer of 2011, Mills was diagnosed with postural orthostatic tachycardia syndrome, which is when the heart rate increases very quickly after getting up from sitting or lying down, according to the NHS website. In her book, Deliciously Ella, published in 2015, she said that changing her diet meant 'in less than two years I was off all the medication I should have been on for life'.
