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Yahoo
25-06-2025
- General
- Yahoo
Ah Yi Lao Huo Tang: $5 double-boiled Chinese soup to cleanse the palate and soul
When the guilt of last week's fried food galore creeps up on me, I start looking for traditional healthy meals. That's when I found Ah Yi Lao Huo Tang (阿懿老火汤) at Pasir Ris Central Food Centre. I'm talking boiled dishes, minimal seasoning and natural flavours. Double-boiled soup, also known as dun in Cantonese, involves submerging a specially crafted ceramic pot in a larger pot of boiling water. This results in the gentle extraction of the flavours of the ingredients within for a delicate, light broth. The time required to fully cook double-boiled soup is 5 to 6 hours. I can't imagine when the owners of Ah Yi Lao Huo Tang start cooking since they open at 11.30am. When I got there at 10.45am, the boilers were already bubbling behind the half-open shutters. There were 9 types of soup featured on the menu, leaving me spoilt for choice. I was also impressed by the affordability of these soups, as 4 out of the 9 items cost just S$5. The 2 most expensive dishes are only S$7.50, and you can even get half a black chicken for S$6.50 with the Herbal Black Chicken Soup. I was pleasantly surprised by the amount of ingredients packed inside the Lotus Root Peanut Pork Ribs Soup (S$5). In the ceramic pot were 5 thick slices of lotus root, a generous handful of peanuts and 3 chunks of pork ribs. For the S$5 price point, I'd say that this was certainly a steal! The soup had this milky translucency due to the pork ribs, much like bone broth. The peanuts and lotus root gave it a subtle sweetness that lingered on my tongue. Yet, with all these contrasting flavours, the soup managed to have depth without being overly seasoned. Just look at that pork rib. You can barely see the tip of the large bone because of all that meat. Now that's what I call chunky! While the meat itself wasn't as soft as I'd like it to be, it still pulled apart easily and was by no means tough. Glistening in the soup, the pork has absorbed all that sweetness and combined it with its own umami. Let me tell you, this was an absolute delight with the White Rice (S$0.50). As a child, I wasn't a fan of boiled lotus root. Was it because I had never had Ah Yi Lao Huo Tang's soup yet? Probably. The lotus root was cooked to fork-tenderness, breaking apart with a light push of my chopsticks. It had this gentle nuttiness to it, a mellow partner to the rich pork. As I picked it up, I could see the silk-like strands of sap which contribute to the lotus root's smooth mouthfeel. 6 must-try stalls at newest Singapura Heritage food hall in Pasir Ris If you were drawn in by the Lotus Root Peanut Pork Ribs Soup, you'll like this Fujianese delight. The Buddha Jumps Over the Wall (S$7.50) presents 3 slices of abalone as wide as 3 of my fingers. Together with 4 long rolls of fish maw, juicy shiitake mushrooms, 2 hunks of chicken and a whole chicken drumstick, I'd jump over a wall for that too. The best way to describe fish maw is probably tau pok's atas brother. Made from the dried swim bladder of large fish like sturgeon, fish maw is rich in collagen and protein. Its structure resembles that of tau pok, with little pockets of air that collect the soup and unleash it on your tastebuds with every munch. Because fish maw is also included in shark fin soup, this bowl of Buddha Jumps Over the Wall had a similar fragrance. I felt extra boujie as I sipped it like a rich tai tai, much to the amusement of my mum. I've been really into mushrooms lately, mostly because of the juiciness of their flesh and how well they absorb flavour. And the shiitake mushroom in this bowl of Buddha Jumps Over the Wall? Impeccable. Biting down releases the slight smokiness of the mushroom alongside the clean sweetness of the abalone-enriched broth. Call me a commoner for saying this but the chicken was the actual highlight of this soup. The meat was so tender that it slid off the bone in 1 swipe. I was caught off guard by how succulent and moist it was, without any bits of meat caught on the cartilage. When you're just about done decimating these gorgeous ingredients, pour in your leftover rice. Trust me on this one, because you end up with this soupy goodness that reminds me of dashi-style ochazuke. You'll have this savoury, crisp broth bursting with seafood flavour and rendered chicken fat seeping into individual grains of rice. If you get the golden Pumpkin Rice (S$0.80) in there? Oh my god. You'll be coming back every day. The gentle warmth of Ah Yi Lao Huo Tang's double-boiled soup just flows right into your bones. If you eat it on a slightly cloudy morning, you'll be experiencing peak comfort food energy. Honestly, I wouldn't mind coming down to Pasir Ris just for a bowl of this as a slow weekend brunch. The delicate flavours of meats and vegetables meld together in a concoction of delicious nostalgia. Also, these bowls of soup were filling and so affordable. If you're not planning a trip right now, what are you even doing? Expected damage: S$5 – S$8 per pax New The Cathay food court's handmade noodles, Teochew fish soup, fried wok goodies & more The post Ah Yi Lao Huo Tang: $5 double-boiled Chinese soup to cleanse the palate and soul appeared first on
Yahoo
09-06-2025
- Yahoo
97 Nasi Lemak: $1.20 brown bee hoon & affordable nasi lemak to start your day strong
– if you live in Singapore, I'm 99.999% sure you've had a plate of this coconut rice and sambal combo at some point. Of course, I'm no exception to this unspoken rule. Maybe it's my appetite returning after recovering from the flu, but I woke up starved this morning. So what better way to feast than to stop by 97 Nasi Lemak at Old Airport Road Food Centre for a few choice dishes? With their Old Airport Road outlet open since 2021, the founders have brought plates of Chinese-style nasi lemak to our tables while keeping prices low. Of course, one of the answers is in the name. After scanning the menu, I set my sights on Set C (S$4) with fried chicken and a plate of Brown (S$1.20) with a slice of (S$1.40). Let's take a look at the nasi lemak first. I chose not to include any add-ons, which leaves me with a fried chicken wing and drumette, sunny-side-up egg, rice, cucumber, ikan bilis mix and sambal. The rice is well cooked and fragrant from the coconut milk. I love that each grain is visually separate, yet moist and easy to pack together for a solid mouthful. The fried egg was not as crispy at the edges, but since I was eating it for breakfast, I appreciated the lighter texture. The dish comes together when you take a bite of rice, sambal and ikan bilis mix. 97 Nasi Lemak's sambal is almost jammy in texture and holds a sweetness that most don't include. It's spicy, but not overwhelming. I would call it the perfect beginner's sambal for those unacquainted with spice. Butter Town: Assorted buttery shio pan & decadent sourdough cakes from hawker stall The mellow coconut pairs well with the salty ikan bilis, while the sambal adds both sweetness and spiciness. With a crunch from the fish and peanuts against the pillowy rice, this nasi lemak is a well-rounded contender. The chicken offers a crispy batter around nicely seasoned meat. While the rest of the dish is light, the fried chicken gives a welcome bite and fills you up. Biting off a chunk of cucumber at the end left a refreshing aftertaste in my mouth. The only gripe I have is the difficulty of tearing the meat off the bones. Granted, I was using cutlery instead of my hands, so tissue-covered fingers might be the best option for a mess-free bite. Moving on to the Brown Bee Hoon, I decided to add an otah to make it more filling. There were also cooked vegetables available, such as Long Bean (S$1) or Curry Vegetables (S$1.20), though I think curry might be a bit too exciting at 10 in the morning, lol. The bee hoon was seasoned well with soy sauce and oyster sauce. It was also moist, which is how I like it! This bee hoon tastes just like nostalgia, a comforting simplicity that lingered on my mind and tongue. I was most impressed by the price point: even the otah was 20¢ more than a plate of plain bee hoon. 97 Nasi Lemak also offers or Fried Noodles for the same S$1.20. However, I was a little disappointed by the Nonya Otah. It wasn't as flavourful as I hoped, and since it was pre-cooked, it cooled quickly. That was the biggest impact on the flavour for me. I would have liked stronger seasonings and more char on the otah. As a whole, I enjoyed the two dishes from 97 Nasi Lemak. Since I visited with a friend, the meal was filling but not jelak enough to induce a food coma two hours later. That's definitely important for office zombies out for breakfast or lunch! If you're dropping by with a friend like me, I highly recommend getting these two dishes and splitting the toppings for the perfect breakfast amount. The next time I eat here, I'll choose a vegetable add-on instead and give their curry a try. Oh, and a cup of soymilk to wash it down! I love sweet-and-savoury combinations so, so much. So if you're craving nasi lemak from 7am – 2.30pm, why not drop by for a bite at Old Airport Road Food Centre? 97 Nasi Lemak will give you a boost to get through the day, both at work and at home. Even if you're not near Mountbatten, there are also outlets at Anchorvale, Senja Hawker Centre and Hong Leong Building, so go give 97 Nasi Lemak a try! For a list of locations, opening hours and phone numbers, please click here. Expected damage: S$1.20 to S$6 per pax New cai fan hawker's huge, cheap salmon & free meal games, vouchers & discounts The post 97 Nasi Lemak: $1.20 brown bee hoon & affordable nasi lemak to start your day strong appeared first on
CNA
06-06-2025
- Business
- CNA
Ex-pastry chef's gourmet burger stall in Bukit Merah was designed by AI and inspired by Tesla's Cybertruck
Since shutting his first F&B venture, a scone kiosk in 2015, former pastry chef Ray Chen, 38, has been wanting to make a comeback with another concept. His wish became a reality in April this year, except that instead of starting a patisserie like he had dreamed, Chen opened hawker stall Kine dishing out lactose-free gourmet burgers at ABC Brickworks Food Centre. Pronounced like 'kind' without the "d", Kine is an old English word for cattle. FORCED TO STOP WORK DUE TO HEALTH STRUGGLES The change in trajectory wasn't by choice but necessity. Chen, who had stints at Flor Patisserie, Les Amis, Tarte by Cheryl Koh and bistro-bar Epiphyte, began experiencing stomach discomfort about seven years ago. 'It was not so serious at first, then I started getting diarrhoea and bloating… this happened almost every day,' the At-Sunrice GlobalChef Academy graduate told 'Sometimes the pain was so intense, I would faint. It was worse than when I fractured my leg. Eventually this pain caused me to stop working in 2018.' For years, Chen endured these episodes, undergoing test after test at various specialists with no clear answers – until he was finally diagnosed with FODMAP sensitivity, a complex digestive condition that includes lactose intolerance and restricting many common foods like wheat, almonds and apples, this year. How did he manage without an income for so long? 'My wife is working and her salary is enough to support the both of us. But I feel like a xiao bai lian ("kept man" in Mandarin),' quipped Chen, adding that his 35-year-old wife works as an admin at the Housing and Development Board. 'Our family concept is she takes care of the stable income, I take care of the unstable but there-is-big-potential income.' WINDFALL THANKS TO TESLA STOCKS And by that he means investing. During his seven-year break, Chen took a keen interest in investing in US stocks and began doing it full-time. That's when he stumbled upon Tesla. 'I was researching on YouTube and videos on Tesla kept popping up and I kept listening to their story. Tesla seemed very promising at that time, so I sold all my stocks and bought Tesla at about US$20 (S$25.72) per share,' he said. 'It made 10 times [returns], which is a 1,000 per cent increase.' When we probe about his winnings, Chen laughed. 'My wife says I cannot say! She won't even let me tell my friends. It's not super a lot.' 'I haven't cashed out and I'm still holding the stocks 'cos I'm expecting another tenfold [increase],' he added confidently. BURGERS, NOT BAKES Despite not yet cashing out on his windfall, it gave Chen financial breathing room to pursue his F&B dream without pressure. As selling pastries was no longer an option due to his lactose sensitivity, Chen took his time to experiment with business ideas, before settling on lactose-free burgers. 'I listed all the things I love to eat, and burgers stood out. They're tasty, and the risk is not so high as people eat them regularly,' he explains. As Chen had never worked in a savoury kitchen, it was a steep learning curve for the chef. He spent a year practicing cooking techniques as well as developing lactose-free recipes for his buns and sauces. He finally opened a stall at ABC Brickworks Food Centre in April this year. DESIGNED BY AI, INSPIRED BY ELON MUSK It's hard to miss Kine when walking along the aisles of the hawker centre. With its sleek, futuristic stainless steel stall front, Kine, which cost S$40,000 to set up, stands out among its bright, colourful neighbours. Even the menu is displayed on a Xiaomi TV. Designed by AI, the minimalist stall is a subtle nod to Tesla's edgy Cybertruck. 'I like how innovative and different the Cybertruck is,' shares Ray. 'It's controversial, but it makes a point.' To complete the theme and also reduce the use of nanoplastics, burgers are served on customised stainless steel trays, along with a mini fork. 'Can you help me tell people not to steal them?' asks Chen. 'It's only been three days and we've lost 10 big and small plates and 16 forks.' Depending on the size, each tray costs S$1 to S$3, while forks are almost S$1. STOP STEALING HIS FUTURISTIC PLATES AND FORKS It's no surprise that Chen is a fan of Elon Musk, not because the controversial billionaire entrepreneur contributed to his windfall, though 'it helps'. 'It's his ideas,' said Chen. 'I've watched almost all his interviews and he's very open to sharing his real thoughts. A lot of CEOs, especially the big ones, don't want to share controversial ideas 'cos it brings negative comments to them. But Elon Musk is very open and that is very good for investors 'cos you know what he is thinking.' KINE'S MENU Kine currently offers four burgers: Signature British Curry Crunchy Shrimp Burger (from S$9.20), Double American Smash Burger (from S$8.90), Single American Smash Burger (S$7.10), all served with lactose-free buns made using Chen's recipe. There is also a 'budget' version of the single patty smash burger, with store-bought lactose-free burger bun and no cheese (from S$5.70). 'While testing recipes, I knew I wanted to offer a cheaper option, which is why I came up with this 'small' burger, which is cheaper by S$1 or S$2. It is the same patty, but instead of our custom-made buns, we use store-bought ones and no cheese,' said Chen. You can order the burgers a la carte, with a side of basic shoestring fries, or a set with premium crunchy fries and salad, as indicated by the three prices beside each burger on the menu. Sides like salad and fries are available from S$2.40. Chen plans to expand his menu to offer more salads and a chicken burger. DOUBLE AMERICAN SMASH BURGER, S$12.40 A SET Available as a single patty or a double, this juicy, messy burger hits the right notes. Smashed thin and grilled for just a minute, the USDA Prime beef patties, each weighing 100g, are meaty with a caramelised crust. They are topped with melty vegan 'mozzarella' cheese, raw onions and tangy chipotle gochujang dressing. It all sits between tanned, fluffy toasted buns, specially made darker hued so 'they look more appetising'. The colour comes from a 'secret natural ingredient' that Chen keeps close to his chest. The buns are sturdier than regular burger buns, but still soft and fluffy and can contain the juicy toppings without turning soggy. Served on the side are lettuce leaves drizzled with bright, zingy carrot umami dressing and fab crunchy fries with house-made creamy curry dip that reminds us of Twisties BBQ curry flavour. Nice. The double-stack burger is available a la carte at S$8.90 and S$11.70 with regular shoestring fries. SIGNATURE BRITISH CURRY CRUNCHY SHRIMP BURGER, S$12.70 A SET The shrimp burger (S$9.20 a la carte) is pretty unorthodox. Inspired by a shrimp curry ramen Ray had in Tokyo, he set out to recreate the dish in burger form – with a twist. Instead of a shrimp paste patty, the burger features six deep-fried shrimp, which are dredged in egg, flour and a 'breadcrumb-like coating' to give it a crunchier finish. They are paired with subtly smoky teppanyaki-style sautéed beans sprouts, and topped with creamy curry sauce – yes, the same one served with the fries. Though born from a Japanese dish, Chen calls it a British curry burger as the flavour profile is closer to the curries he enjoyed in London. The flavours come together quite nicely, but the occasional earthy taste of bean sprouts may not appeal to everyone. WHAT'S THE BOTTOM LINE? Kine stands out in the hawker scene with its creative, lactose-free gourmet burgers that deliver on flavour and flair. Every element reflects Chen's attention to detail, from the specially developed buns to the zippy house-made sauces. We like our burgers meaty, juicy, and messy and the hearty double stack smash burger ticks all the boxes. Even the accompanying crunchy fries and dip are yum. Prices are reasonable for the quality, so the stall is worth a visit.
CNA
16-05-2025
- General
- CNA
NEA's anti-subletting rule 'fair and effective' but some hawkers wish for greater flexibility
For several months now, Mr Tan has been serving plates of fried hokkien mee to customers at a food centre in central Singapore as though he is a seasoned veteran. However, discerning regulars who patronise the stall might notice a change in taste, because their noodles used to be prepared by a woman. As it turns out, Mr Tan is not the stallholder. The stall belongs to the woman, who is in her 70s. She was ill and has not been mobile. Mr Tan said in Mandarin that she does not have the strength to run the stall by herself for the time being. 'I'm temporarily helping her, we'll monitor what her health is like first. 'If she gets better, then she can probably return to work but just come a bit later in the day.' Yet, Mr Tan is aware that by helping out his friend for such a lengthy period of time, it is technically breaching a rule in his friend's tenancy agreement with the National Environment Agency (NEA) that requires stallholders to personally operate their stalls. Aimed at preventing stallholders from subletting their stalls to others by mandating the physical presence of the registered owner, the regulation ultimately prevents rents and food prices from hiking and allows enterprising hawkers to enter the industry fairly. NEA's long-standing rule became the subject of controversy earlier this year after one owner of a nasi lemak stall took to Facebook to rail against it, after his pregnant wife – the registered owner – was warned for failing to be physically present at her stall in Yishun. In this case, the stall owner adopted a franchise model, operating at least 26 stalls around Singapore, including in malls and privately run food centres. Dr Koh Poh Koon, Senior Minister of State for Sustainability and the Environment, said in a Facebook post in March that NEA identified and warned more than 230 stalls last year because they were not personally manned by owners. Of these, 30 were issued with notices to terminate their tenancies when they did not heed the warnings. From these warnings and notices, more than 100 stalls terminated their tenancies, while the rest were able to continue operations because they had given valid reasons for their absence. With around half of the hawkers who were warned by NEA ultimately let off the hook because they were found to have genuine reasons, CNA TODAY visited eight hawker centres to find out how stallholders – particularly those who do not operate franchise chains – are coping with this rule. Most agreed that such a rule is effective in deterring subletters and preventing large franchise chains from dominating NEA-run hawker centres, but there were also older stallholders who said that the rule was forcing them out of the trade. Anecdotally, many ageing stallholders still relied on hired assistants to run the majority of the business, sometimes for the whole day. Their reasons include circumstances that are beyond their control, such as illness, fatigue, or suddenly having to pick up supplies. For some, it meant having to explain their absences to NEA officers who carry out regular inspections. A few hawkers said they would even work through sickness and poor health in order to not put their businesses at risk of closure. At present, NEA has said it 'appreciates' the challenges that hawkers face in balancing their personal circumstances with business operations. Flexibility is given when there are medical reasons, for example, which lead to hawkers not being able to operate their stalls temporarily. Stallholders may also choose to appoint a joint operator or a nominee to help operate the stall during that period of absence, though they would still need to man their stalls for a period of time. And in the event that the stall has to close for valid reasons, NEA may offer rental waivers, too. Despite the leeway already granted by the authorities, two experts who spoke to CNA TODAY said that there was a need for greater flexibility. They raised suggestions such as allowing stall assistants to "hold the fort" temporarily, as well as vacation days for hawkers. Dr Lily Kong, president of Singapore Management University (SMU) who researches urban infrastructure and also co-wrote a paper on hawker culture, said: 'The desire to prevent subletting is understandable. However, the manner in which it is effected requires rethinking.' WHY THE ANTI-SUBLETTING RULE EXISTS Hawker stalls are meant to provide Singaporeans with the opportunity to start and run a small food business, which is why stallholders are required to personally operate their stalls, the authorities have stated previously. Explaining the rationale behind such a rule, Dr Koh Poh Koon, Senior Minister of State for Sustainability and the Environment, said in parliament that it exists to prevent subletting. 'If this requirement is not imposed, the tenant who has successfully bid for the stall could potentially sublet the stall and collect the difference in rent. It may encourage persons to bid for a stall without an intention to run a stall but only to sublet it,' he said. Should the tenant be unable to operate the stall, the tenant is then expected to return the stall to NEA, allowing other new hawkers a fair chance to enter the trade. Dr Koh was responding to a parliamentary question filed by Holland-Bukit Timah Group Representation Constituency MP Edward Chia after a Yishun stallholder questioned the anti-subletting rule earlier this year. The hawker, Mr Noorman Mubarak, had complained in a Feb 18 Facebook post that he was forced to make his heavily pregnant wife tend their nasi lemak stall at Yishun Park Hawker Centre. The stall is registered under his wife's name. The stall, Nasi Lemak Ayam Taliwang, is part of the couple's chain of more than 20 stores across Singapore, including in hawker centres managed by the National Environment Agency (NEA), malls and privately run eateries. In a Facebook post following the parliamentary debate, Dr Koh said that many people have given feedback to him to support the government's policy and called for NEA to take firm action against subletters. 'Requiring stallholders to physically operate their stalls remains the most practical and fair way of preventing subletting and ensuring that hawker stalls are not misused for rent-seeking motives,' he said. Nevertheless, Dr Koh highlighted the challenges that NEA officers face when detecting subletting, stating that the approach 'isn't always straightforward'. 'Subletting is done under the table ... NEA has to conduct thorough investigations to uncover and substantiate such cases. This may include collecting documentary and photo evidence, conducting interviews with hawkers and relevant parties, as well as repeated checks over a period of time, before taking action against errant stallholders.' In response to queries, NEA directed CNA TODAY to publicly available information on what hawkers can or cannot do. Those who wish to expand their businesses can do so by holding up to two cooked food stalls in hawker centres, provided they are able to divide their time and operate the stalls personally. Hawkers have also made use of other arrangements to grow their businesses, such as taking on more stalls at hawker centres with their family members as stallholders. To this, NEA has said it 'appreciates' the challenges that hawkers face in balancing their personal circumstances with business operations. If hawkers are temporarily unable to operate their stalls – due to medical reasons, for example – the authority has exercised flexibility in these cases. The stallholder may appoint a joint operator or a nominee to operate the stall during that period of absence. Both the stallholder and the joint operator are each required to personally operate the stall for at least four hours each business day, and their operation hours cannot overlap. In the event that the stall has to shut for a period of time, NEA may offer rental waivers to the stallholder. These rules only apply to tenancy agreements for stallholders in NEA-managed hawker centres. FALLING SICK, FEELING FATIGUED Many hawkers who spoke to CNA TODAY said that the NEA rule was an effective deterrent to those thinking of subletting their stalls. Mr Lew Yew Liang, 55, who owns Shan Zhong Bao Herbal Soup at Berseh Food Centre, said the anti-subletting rule has been in place for many years and he has had no issues abiding by it. 'The rule is fair. Our rent is already very cheap compared to coffee shops. By all means, people can rent at coffee shops,' he said. However, to Mr Tan, the fried hokkien mee assistant helping his friend, the requirement to personally man the stall makes the trade unsustainable for older hawkers. 'Some people will not be able to carry on with the business at all,' he said. He also said he was ready to explain to the authorities why his friend was unable to tend the stall if approached by officers. 'NEA has to understand that hawkers are old. Even though their heart is there, they don't have the strength to stand there for eight hours.' He did not state if she had considered appointing him as a joint operator, though the rules stipulate that even if she did, she would need to be physically present at the stall for four hours. In any case, Mr Tan said she cannot bear to give up her stall completely, because it would mean the loss of her only source of income. That was why she paid Mr Tan to work as her assistant and take over operations until her condition improved. The stall's earnings still mainly go to her, but Mr Tan receives a portion of it for his help. Others said that they tapped relatives to share the load and to make sure that the business remained sustainable. A 66-year-old owner of Choon Hwa Coffee Stall in MacPherson, who declined to give her name, said that because she has high blood pressure and gets tired easily, her relatives help out on most mornings and afternoons, while she tends the stall in the evening. She recounted how an NEA officer once approached her to find out why she was not at the stall. She replied that it was 'tough' for elderly people to man their stalls for hours on end and asked the officer to try a day of her work. Another hawker said that she did not qualify for rental waivers when she fell sick last year, because her medical certificates did not cover her for a continuous period of one month. Madam Jeanette Koh, 59, who operates a rojak store at Circuit Road Food Centre, said her absence at the stall also led to enquiries from NEA officers. 'NEA says if you can't do it, then just return the stall to it. But if we return the stall (to NEA), then who will give us work? We don't have credentials, who will hire us?' One hawker who operates a stall at Toa Payoh Lorong 8 Market and Hawker Centre that sells ayam penyet (a fried chicken dish), said he was coughing for eight days, but he continued to work with a mask on in order to comply with NEA's anti-subletting rule. This was because he could not allow his assistants to work on his behalf while he was absent, he said. He declined to be named. TO MAKE ENDS MEET For similar reasons, it will also be difficult for him to leave Singapore for any Haj pilgrimages in future, because closing his stall when he is away means lost earnings. This was a sentiment echoed by a few hawkers who feared losing potential earnings because they could not keep their stalls open with help from hired assistants while they rested at home. For Ms Joanne Lee, 52, the owner of Fu He Turtle Soup at Berseh Food Centre, the requirement prevents her from extending her operating hours beyond 7pm to capture the supper crowd and earn more for her business. 'If I always have to be here all the time, it is difficult to sustain operations in the long run.' Mr Melvin Chew, who owns the Jin Ji Teochew Braised Duck & Kway Chap stall at Chinatown Complex, said he worries for the future generation of hawkers since young people these days value work-life balance. 'In the past, old hawkers had no life. They simply worked every day and missed the time they had with their children,' the 47-year-old added. 'But nowadays, people feel that they should cherish the moment. So if they have to be at the stall every day from a certain time to a certain time, they have no freedom to spend time with their children or think about starting a family.' He also said that if Singapore wants hawker culture to remain, then it has to provide younger hawkers with confidence that they can establish a branding for themselves and their businesses. Not all agree, though. There were some hawkers, such as Mr Eddy Leck, who told CNA TODAY that it was possible to find that balance despite the long hours as a hawker. For example, if there are no customers, there is no need for the stallholder to be present to work long hours. The hawker could close the stall and come back later when the crowds are back. The 49-year-old owner of Soon Heng Coffee Stall at Circuit Road Food Centre said: "I have no difficulties being here all the time. We are making a living, of course we have to be here. We're doing business.' LIMITED EXPANSION OPPORTUNITIES At the end of the day, hawker centres are designed to provide opportunities for hawkers to directly operate their own small food businesses, which is why corporates cannot bid directly for hawker stalls. Some leeway is given for expansion opportunities. NEA's current rules allow individuals to hold a maximum of two cooked food stalls in hawker centres, provided they are able to divide their time and operate the stalls personally. In reality, executing this is difficult, some hawkers said. Ms Li Ruifang, 41, recalled how her father gave up his prawn noodle stall at Whampoa Food Centre to help her find her footing in the food-and-beverage industry when she decided to start her own stall. The earnings from his stall had put food on the table for her family since the 1970s. Originally, her father Lee Wong Leong, 75, wanted to retain ownership of his original stall and allow his sister to operate it, while he would head to Ms Li's stall in Tekka Centre to help out full-time. For a time, this was an ideal arrangement for them. Mr Lee's earnings from Whampoa allowed him to keep a stable income, his daughter gets to learn directly from an experienced hand, and his sister gets to help out in the family business. Then, NEA found out about the arrangement in 2014, and because Mr Lee could not divide his time commuting between the two stalls due to his age, he turned over ownership of his Whampoa stall to his sister. Ms Li said of her father's sacrifice: 'I do feel very grateful for how he gave up his stall to come over to Tekka to help me out. If not for him, I believe it would have taken a longer time for me to get into the rhythm of helming the stall.' "MORE FLEXIBILITY NEEDED" Acknowledging the effectiveness of NEA's rule against subletting, experts on hawker culture said it would be difficult to remove such a regulation without hurting the industry as a whole. Doing so would also risk 'unintended misuse' by hawkers, Mr Ryan Kueh said. He is the author of From Street to Stalls, a book about the history and evolution of Singapore's hawker culture. Without such a rule, it would inadvertently give rise to subletting, allowing people to exploit public subsidies for personal profit by turning stalls into rental assets. 'We first need to consider its underlying principle – preventing the misappropriation of a public good for profiteering,' he said. On the other hand, there could be 'some flexibility for elderly hawkers or those facing genuine difficulties', he added. On this point, Dr Kong from SMU had some suggestions for the authorities to consider. For example, there may be provisions for workers to take vacation leave in ways that do not affect their income. 'It is not unreasonable to have some provision for 'locums' to stand in occasionally for hawkers or for helpers to hold the fort for periods of time,' Dr Kong said. Mr Kueh lauded NEA's recent policy to allow hawkers to hire assistants holding long-term visit passes, which helps to ease workloads. Previously, only Singapore citizens and permanent residents could work as stall assistants in hawker centres managed by NEA and its appointed operators. Hawkers could also hire their spouses who have these visit passes. The policy was relaxed from Jan 1 to allow hawkers to hire any of these pass holders who have been approved to work here. Beyond policy, Mr Kueh said more must be done to boost the attractiveness of the industry to young entrants. 'The larger issue is our outdated expectations of hawkers – expecting stalls to be open excessively for long hours or to sell food at very low prices – and the second-order effects they create,' he added. 'These expectations pressure hawkers to offer food at low costs and in turn receive low (profit) margins, endure excessively long working hours and remain trapped in a cycle of working more to sustain sufficient income.'
Independent Singapore
13-05-2025
- General
- Independent Singapore
'Worse than a third world country' — SLA escalates hygiene complaints to Seah Im Food Centre managing agent
SINGAPORE: Authorities are taking action after diners raised serious concerns about the poor state of hygiene at Seah Im Food Centre, where flocks of pigeons have been seen feasting on leftover food and mingling freely among patrons. The Seah Im Food Centre, located near the HarbourFront transport hub, has long served commuters and tourists, offering an affordable range of local hawker fare. However, with complaints piling up and photos circulating online, questions about hygiene standards and the effectiveness of current maintenance efforts are mounting. One diner, John, told citizen journalism portal Stomp that he is left disgusted every time he visits Seah Im Food Centre, calling the environment worse than conditions he has witnessed in developing countries. 'I have never seen places like these even when I am in Third World countries such as Vietnam or Cambodia,' John said. 'I'd rather pay the same price to buy a value set meal at McDonald's or Burger King at VivoCity than pay the same price eating at unhygienic food centres.' Sharing photos of birds pecking at leftovers on unattended tables and hovering around the tray return station, John said that while netting has been installed to keep birds out, John said the solution has been ineffective. 'The food centre has been covered with netting to prevent pigeons from entering. Unfortunately, this control measure failed as openings are still required for people to access and pigeons can enter from these openings,' he said Suggesting that the tray return area should be enclosed to prevent birds from accessing food remnants, he also expressed concern about the cleaning practices at the centre. He alleged, 'Speaking of food trays which pigeons feed from, I have noticed that the cleaners just wipe the trays with a rag and stack them for reuse.' John said he reported the matter to the Singapore Food Agency (SFA), which referred him to the Singapore Land Authority (SLA). In response, the SLA said it has escalated the matter to Knight Frank, the managing agent overseeing the food centre. In an email response to John, SLA said: 'We have escalated this matter to our managing agent, Knight Frank, to monitor the bird congregation issue and ensure timely clearing of trolley bays, food trays, and utensils by our cleaning contractors to deter gathering of the birds. We are actively working to address these concerns.' Still, for regular patrons like John, the experience remains deeply unsatisfactory. 'Food prices in Singapore keep going up, but the quality of living is getting worse,' he said.
