Latest news with #gardeners
Washington Post
3 days ago
- Climate
- Washington Post
5 common tomato problems and how to solve them
Tomatoes are the quintessential summer garden crop, but they're not always simple to grow. In fact, by this point in the growing season, even the most experienced gardener may be having problems. According to experts, unusual weather, including a massive amount of rain in some places, is making for an especially tough tomato season this year. The good news: Most tomato plant issues are solvable.
Irish Times
4 days ago
- General
- Irish Times
The struggles and charms of variegated gardening
We need to talk about variegation. Or at least I need to talk about variegation, a subject that divides gardeners in much the same way that air fryers do chefs, or the reborn popularity of white socks neatly splits the generations (I hear you). Despite coming of age in an era when variegated aucuba (Aucuba japonica Variegata) was considered the height of elegance, Euonymus fortunei, 'Emerald and Gold', was a must-have, and variegated poplar trees (Populus candicans Aurora) were a ubiquitous sight along sleepy farm avenues, I've always struggled to like the former. I know the great majority of gardeners see much beauty in their variously splodged, spotted, striped and mottled foliage (hello Leucothoe fontanesiana, 'Rainbow'; Philadelphus coronarius, 'Variegatus'; Eleagnus 'Limelight'; Hypericum 'Tricolor' and Silybum marianum). But to paraphrase Gilbert and Sullivan, not me, no, never - or at least rarely ever. I've always been thus. Even my first encounter with the refined charms of the vanilla-scented variegated shrub, Azara microphylla 'Variegata', trained smartly against a wall, failed to fully win my stubborn teenage self over. It was a similar story when it came to my first teenage sighting of the elegant wedding tree, Cornus controversa 'Variegata', whose sculptural, tiered growth habit and gently drooping green-and-cream leaves make it a firm favourite with most. READ MORE As for the dubious charms of variegated spreading perennials such as Houttuynia 'Chameleon'; Ajuga 'Burgundy Glow'; and Polemonium 'Stairway', you can keep them. Instead, I belong firmly to that judgmental minority for whom variegated plants rarely get through the garden gate. The few exceptions to this ruthlessly self-imposed purdah include various variegated forms of the woodland's edge, spring-flowering perennial known as brunnera, a plant whose large, heart-shaped, silvered leaves with their intricate tracery of barely-there green veins are impossible to resist. Likewise, positioned carefully, ideally in an enclosed shady courtyard where it's grown in thoughtful combination with other handsome foliage shrubs, I can fully appreciate the ghostly charm of Fatsia 'Spider's Web', or the quiet beauty of Pittosporum 'Silver Queen'. The same goes for some of the more subtly variegated varieties of spurge such as the evergreen Euphorbia characias 'Silver Swan', and the lacy, silvered fronds of Athyrium nipponicum var. pictum. As the years have passed, I've also grudgingly come to concede that certain other kinds of variegated plants can light up a shady corner in a special way, or give an additional layer of interest to a planting scheme. But only, I think, when used with a particularly artful combination of flair and restraint. Part of the trick here lies in (a) never mixing silver/cream/white variegated plants with golden-variegated varieties, which almost always results in a queasy combination; and (b) rigorously restricting the use of variegated plants to just a handful of key varieties that are greatly outnumbered by non-variegated varieties. This way, much like wearing a brightly patterned top or tie, their visual busyness is counterbalanced by the restful foil of gentler tones. Houttuynia cordata 'Chameleon' Japanese aucuba, considered the height of elegance Putting aside the thorny subject of personal prejudices (I know when I'm on a losing wicket), the science of variegation is fascinating. In some cases, for example, it's the result of a virus, typically passed on to the plant by vectors such as aphids or other sap-sucking insects, as well as via soil-dwelling nematodes, fungal pathogens, mechanically (via infected tools) or even by infected seed, the usual consequences of which are less vigorous growth. Part of the reason for this is that variegated plants typically produce less chlorophyll (the green pigment in leaves) resulting in less photosynthesis, the process core to plant health. That reduced vigour also explains why most of the most famously beautiful 'streaked' varieties of tulips – for example, Tulip 'Semper Augustus', whose virused bulbs were exchanged for huge sums of money in Holland during the 'tulipomania' of the 17th century – almost inevitably became extinct. It's also not unusual to see some kinds of variegated plants revert to being non-variegated over time. In this case, naturally more vigorous, non-variegated growth initially appears alongside the variegated growth, before gradually becoming dominant. This is because some kinds of variegation are unstable plant traits that can be affected by various complex factors including light and temperature levels. Genetics also plays an important role, for which reason these kinds of variegated varieties can only be propagated vegetatively by cuttings or tissue culture, rather than from seed. The only way to help preserve variegation in a plant when the process of reversion begins is by ruthlessly cutting out any non-variegated growth whenever it appears. Kohuhu 'Silver Queen' (Pittosporum tenuifolium) Fatsia japonica Other kinds of variegation, such as that seen in the much-coveted variety of variegated house plant known as Monstera 'Thai Constellation', are naturally occurring mutations first discovered growing in the wild and then introduced into cultivation via tissue culture. In this case, the variegation is a stable plant trait that can be relied on to persist. Variegated house plants like these are much in demand throughout the world, from different forms of alocasia and philodendron to peperomia and calathea. Such is their rarity that a chosen few (for example Philodendron llsemanii) have become collector's items that are traded online for large sums of money, just like the beautifully virused tulips of the 17th century once were. Ironically – and again, much like those once much coveted varieties of tulips – their rarity is amplified by the very fact that their variegation often makes them very tricky to grow as well as to propagate. But that's not always the case. Just consider the humble spider plant, a popular, ultra vigorous, variegated houseplant that I do admire. The most commonly grown cultivar, Chlorophytum commutatum 'Variegatum', has green leaves smartly edged with white. But in the less common variety known as Chlorophytum comosum 'Vittatum', that variegation is reversed, with a central band of creamy-white edged on both sides by green. Almost unkillable, the spider plant forms a smart plume of neatly striped, grasslike foliage, from which baby plantlets regularly emerge on curving stems as if by magic. Much like strawberry runners, these can be easily encouraged to root by gently pegging them on to the surface of a small pot of damp compost and keeping them well watered. Alternatively, they can be left to dangle in pretty clouds beneath the parent plant, so long as the latter is displayed in a hanging plant pot suspended from a height. Grown this way, even the sternest of variegation-phobes, myself included, can't help but admire their curious, otherworldly beauty. This week in the garden Wisteria needs its second pruning of the year (the first is traditionally done in January) to encourage a well-proportioned, tidy growth habit and the plentiful development of flowers for next year's display. To do this, tie in any growth needed to extend its coverage, then use a sharp, clean secateurs to nip unwanted growth back to about 30cm. See for more detailed instructions. Keep a careful eye on climbing varieties of beans and peas, making sure that they're given sturdy, wind-resistant supports capable of bearing their weight, and regularly tying in any new growth as it develops to allow for easy harvesting. Dates for your diary Carlow Garden Festival 2025 From Saturday, July 26th to Sunday, August 3rd. Pre-booking essential, see A Fiesta of Dahlias at June Blake's garden Tinode, Blessington, Co Wicklow, this weekend from 2pm on Saturday and Sunday. Free workshops, expert talks, plus tours of the garden, all welcome, see .
The Guardian
5 days ago
- General
- The Guardian
Is your garden out of control? Don't stress: embrace the chaos
The growing season is at its peak. There have been harvests already and more to come. The boughs of our plum tree bend towards the ground, heaving with fruit, and there are new cucumbers and courgettes swelling with each warm summer day. My season started late, and since the spring equinox I feel as if I've been stumbling while I try to catch up. My crops are being outpaced by the creeping buttercup, couch grass and nettles that sneak under the chicken-wire fence. Self-seeded lemon balm and teasels pop up wherever there's a thumbnail's worth of bare soil. While it's a glorious time in the veg patch, all I seem to feel is overwhelm. While overwhelm is a feeling I know all gardeners experience at some point – whether in the depths of a long, soggy winter, or while watching blight take hold of their tomatoes, or just when contemplating a never-ending to-do list – it isn't something I see people talk about much. Beyond the carefully curated photos and the thoughtfully worded, triumphant captions shared on Instagram, there are other feelings the garden can induce that we growers ought to share more. Right now, it is a major source of frustration for me. Everything is growing so rapidly I've lost sight of what my garden can be – or what, perhaps, it ought to be. Instead of being a place of nature and nurture, joy and thriving, it feels draining and disappointing. But this isn't unusual and there is a gentle, sane way to manage these feelings. Stop. Stop trying to get on top of the weeds, the mess and the endless tasks. Just sit down amid the chaos of your garden at the height of summer and see it for the beauty it holds, not the things it has failed to be. A kind friend said to me recently that 'a messy garden is better than an empty one', and I've been leaning on the truth and reassurance of that statement to hold me steady as the illusion of control slips through my fingers. I'm also reminded of the wise counsel of skilled gardener and friend Andrew Timothy O'Brien, who wrote an entire book, To Stand and Stare, that embodies a gentler way of being with the plants in your garden. He invites us to pay attention to the garden as it expresses itself, embracing what it has to say even when it's not part of our plan, and taking the time to be with the garden instead of relentlessly doing. Sign up to Inside Saturday The only way to get a look behind the scenes of the Saturday magazine. Sign up to get the inside story from our top writers as well as all the must-read articles and columns, delivered to your inbox every weekend. after newsletter promotion We can more intentionally cultivate the relationship with our patches of earth when we ease our grip on what we want our garden to be and meet it where it is. The to-do list will persist, of course, but perhaps we can learn to live with getting less of it done.
The Sun
5 days ago
- General
- The Sun
Major garden retailer slashes cost of gorgeous blue hydrangeas that ‘bloom 30 flowers in first season' from £40 to £20
A HUGE garden retailer has slashed the price of stunning blue hydrangeas by half. Hydrangeas make a gorgeous edition to any garden, and are loved by gardeners thanks to their huge, luscious blooms. 2 Their vibrant colours and large size mean they instantly elevate any garden, and the monstrous plants can grow up to 30 flower heads during their first flowering season. If you're looking to transform your garden into a haven this summer, and make your outdoor space the envy of your neighbours, hydrangeas are undoubtedly a great choice. And if you're a garden lover on a budget, Gardening Express is currently selling huge blooms for just £19.99, down from £40. The plants come in 10-litre pots, and are perfect for beds, borders or planters. The XXXL Mophead plant has giant blue blooms, which can grow to the size of footballs when fully grown. The flowers will last for the entire summer, before fading to a purple colour during autumn. If your garden soil is heavy in alkaline, the blooms turn from blue to pink, and can even turn a lavender colours, depending on the soil's PH. Each winter, you should cut the plant near ground level, and watch new stems pop up in the new year. Gardening Express said: "Wow! These plants are monsters, and can be expected to throw out up to 30 strong flower heads during their first flowering season in your garden. "A wonderful Hydrangea variety with huge flowers, often found in high class florist bouquets, it has really massive blooms." I'm a gardening pro – my simple tip will revive 'dead' hydrangeas in seconds How to get hydrangeas to bloom until October A TikTok flower expert has revealed her top three tips for gardeners to know to keep their hydrangeas blooming through to October. By doing these things, it will help stop the flowers turning " brown and crispy", as temperatures heat up. One sister from the popular TikTok duo, Miller Flowers, shared the advice online which attracted a number of comments, likes and shares from garden enthusiasts. The first tip is around watering, as "hydrangeas are plants that love water". The 5 best flowers to help bees to thrive Nature experts at Faith In Nature have shared the 5 best flowers Brits can plant in their gardens to help bees thrive. Rebecca Miller, Fabulous' Associate Editor and keen gardener explains why "bees are brilliant". "They are vital. They pollinate our food and play a crucial role in our ecosystem. But climate change, the increasing use of pesticides and loss of habitat means bees are endangered. No matter how big your garden or outside space is, you can plant a flower or two to help bees." Lavender Lavender can thrive in a sunny spot with well-drained soil. It's fragrant and flowers all-summer-long meaning it's a big hit with bees - especially bumble bees. Sunflowers This cheery flower giant are bee-magnets. And if you look closely at a sunflower head, the big 'flowers' are actually a cluster of small flowers, called an inflorescence which attract pollinators. Ideally, grow sunflowers in groups to provide nectar and pollen for as many bees as possible. At the end of summer, collect the dried seeds from the sunflower heads to feed the birds or plant next year. Heather These abundant, bell-shaped blooms are brimming with nectar and pollen – which is good news for bees. Cornflowers A vivid blue wildflower, cornflowers are often planted alongside other meadow blooms, like ox-eye daisies and poppies. They grow on tall stems and are packed with nectar, making them particularly attractive to bees. Cornflowers bloom for a long time and are simple to grow, so they're perfect for first-time gardeners and experienced alike. Crocuses (and snowdrops) Later this summer, when you're starting to plan for your Spring displays, consider crocuses and snowdrops. They provide bees, such as the queen buff-tailed bumblebee and male hairy-footed flower bees, with vital early pollen as they emerge from their winter hibernation. It is recommended to water them three times a week, for ten minutes. Where the hydrangeas are positioned in the garden is also a valuable component to consider for their optimal flowering. Hydrangeas need both sun and shade. A little fertilisation can be particularly useful for hydrangeas in climates where it is continually warm. It can encourage more blooms, and help them deal with heat. However, it is not always necessary, also depending on the soil used, and time of the year.
Telegraph
7 days ago
- Climate
- Telegraph
Which plants need to be watered while you're away, and which can fend for themselves
It may have rained in recent days, but much of the country is experiencing a drought and millions of us are in the middle of a hosepipe ban that may go on for months. Rest assured, there's no need to water everything. Ignore the lawn, it will recover once the rain returns, and don't worry about established aromatic and silvery plants either. They have their own built-in sunscreen. Leaf shape matters too. If the foliage is long and linear, like an iris, kniphofia or hemerocallis, or if it's highly divided, like rosemary or dianthus, these plants will survive because transpiration is minimal. The following plants do need our help though. Most can get by on a thorough twice-a-week soaking in the morning, or in the evening. If you're going away, neighbours are often willing to help. Do encourage them to pick the beans, courgettes and tomatoes, so that they keep on cropping. Recycle as much water as possible, rather than putting it down the plug hole, because it can be tipped on to the garden. Soak the area around the plants. Dribbling water on is worse than no water, because it encourages the roots to surface. Thorough spot watering is the way to go. The eight essentials Greenhouse Tomatoes Every day The greenhouse is the hottest place in the garden, but applying water-soluble white shading helps to keep it much cooler. It's quick and easy to apply with a brush. Greenhouse tomatoes will need watering daily, preferably in the morning if possible. Keep the water well away from the fruit and foliage, to prevent fungal disease, and ventilate the greenhouse because tomatoes dislike extreme heat. If you're going away, feed just before you go using a soluble tomato food. This will help to prevent blossom end rot, a stress disease that blackens the underside of the fruit. Irregular watering is often a cause. Greenhouse cucumbers need less water than tomatoes, I find. Overwatering can cause them to wilt. Every other day is the way to go with these – but it does depend on temperature. Outdoor tomatoes also benefit from plenty of water. Move them into an area that gets afternoon sun, if you're going away. Runner beans Every couple of days These come into their own as the days begin to shorten, due to their South American equatorial provenance. Watering them now will help them to crop for the next couple of months, so these are top priority too. Tripods suffer less from drought and wind damage than straight lines of beans. Choosing the correct varieties also helps. Hybrid runner x French beans, such as 'Moonlight' and 'Firestorm', are able to crop heavily in drier, hotter conditions. They won't shed their flowers on hot nights, when temperatures go above 16C, but this is a real problem with traditional runner beans. Gently watering them every couple of days is the way to go. The following vegetables can be left to their own devices. Carrots and beetroot have fleshy moisture-seeking roots and brassicas have leathery foliage, so they'll be fine. Onions and shallots should be ripening now, rather than growing. Newly planted roses Twice a week or more These are very vulnerable in their first growing season, because most have been potted up in the spring, so their fibrous root system hasn't fully developed. Gently tipping a whole can of water round the base, a couple of times a week, is vital. If you're away, make sure your helpers know where your new rose is. Once roses are established, they are very tolerant of dry conditions and heat. Check newly planted clematis as well. The smaller-flowered viticellas are the most drought-tolerant ones, once established. Hydrangeas Twice a week Hydrangeas have suffered this year due to the unusually dry spring and many are still struggling. They include the shade-loving, fairly drought tolerant forms of Hydrangea paniculata such as 'Limelight' and 'Kyushu'. Keep all your hydrangeas hydrated with a twice weekly bucket, or can of water, otherwise you may lose them. Trees and woody shrubs planted in the last two years As required Keep an eye on these, because these are expensive items to replace. This year the ground has been so dry that the roots will not have penetrated into the surrounding soil, so watering may well be needed. When a tree, or shrub, is in distress the foliage tries to avoid transpiration in two ways. Sometimes the plant slants the leaves straight down and witch hazels, or hamamelis, often do this. Watch their foliage carefully. If the leaves turn to the vertical, this winter-flowering gem is water-stressed and you may lose it. Other woody plants close their leaves up. Both are distress signals, indicating that this tree or shrub needs water now. If the worst happens, and the foliage browns and drops, don't be too hasty to remove it. Woody plants can (and do) re-shoot next spring, but it's best not to put that one to the test. Geums and astrantias Twice a week These both flower in May, and both hate dry conditions so it's imperative to water them throughout dry summers. Otherwise, both will fade away and die. Red and dark-pink astrantias are generally more demanding on the moisture front. However, this year they've all suffered – even the normally drought-tolerant pale-pink 'Buckland' has shrivelled here. Flagging phloxes need our help too. If they've turned brown, cut the stems back and water to encourage regrowth. Shade-loving South American late-summer tender plants Every other day Fuchsias, impatiens and begonias stay vivid and colourful late into the year, so you don't want to lose them in summer. They thrive in cooler semi-shade and moist soil, so these will also need watering. If you're going away, move them into full shade and stand them in pot saucers. Even then, they will still need watering every other day when it's dry. Potted plants are always vulnerable, especially smaller potfuls. It's a good idea to use larger containers. The sun lovers, such as pelargoniums, could be left for a week, but not two. 'Pink Capricorn' is my star recommendation. It will get by on a weekly water if it has to. Later season perennials Three times a week They've caught the worst of the summer drought, but most will recover once the autumn rains come. The only three I'd specify, for resuscitation purposes, are echinaceas, heleniums and rudbeckias because a dry, hot spell can see them off. A three-times-weekly can or bucket, gently tipped over them in the morning or evening, will keep them going for another year.
