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The Sun
a day ago
- The Sun
I visited one of the world's cheapest countries that feels like going back hundreds of years – you can find beers for £1
THE sun warmed my face as we soared through the emerald waters on a traditional junk boat, its large sails steering the way. Drifting closer to Unesco World Heritage Site Ha Long Bay, the landscape unfolded like something out of a dream. 6 6 6 In front of me, nearly 2,000 limestone karsts and islets soared from the jade-green waters, their rugged silhouettes softened by tropical vegetation. This was paradise. If Vietnam isn't already on your bucket list, it sure should be. Ha Long Bay was just the beginning for me. A kayaking excursion was also on the horizon and an evening of cold beers in a local bar — along with the promise of adventure, shared with 12 other keen explorers and crammed into a jam-packed ten-day itinerary. This is the unique and brilliant thing about a G Adventures holiday: after just a few days a set of total strangers, from all age ranges and with a love for travel, leave as pals. We were led by a local guide who went above and beyond in recommending the best sights and their expertise made navigating such a vibrant and complex country feel effortless. From the moment I touched down in Hanoi, Vietnam's capital, I knew my trip would be unforgettable. The city doesn't just welcome you — it wraps you in its embrace with the hum of motorbikes, the aroma of street food, and a culture so vibrant you can't help but fall in love. One of the most powerful places to visit in this region is Hoa Lò Prison, also called the 'Hanoi Hilton.' Built by the French to hold Vietnamese revolutionaries, the building later became known for imprisoning American soldiers during the Vietnam War. Abandoned Ho Thuy Tien water park in Vietnam And don't miss the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum — a grand memorial and the resting place for Vietnam's beloved former leader, Ho Chi Minh, after whom the city is named, his body preserved inside a Soviet-style building. My favourite memories of Hanoi, however, were on Train Street. This narrow alley is famed for its railway, which runs straight through the centre, so close to the tiny cafés flanking the street that you can feel the rush of air when the carriages whoosh past. Arriving in Hue was nothing short of magical. Strolling through the Imperial Citadel felt like stepping back in time to the days of emperors and dynasties. I sat on a small stool with a Hanoi Beer, waiting for the magic moment. Then, as the train roared towards me, the whole street sprung into action — people moved aside, cameras clicked, and for a few thrilling seconds, it was pure excitement. The next stop on my epic adventure was the coastal city of Hue, a place where history comes alive. I'm not usually a fan of overnight trains and the idea of spending 13 hours onboard had me feeling a little anxious. Emperors and dynasties But, much to my surprise, the experience was a lot of fun. My cosy compartment, which I shared with tour group members, came with four flat beds and I slept like a baby after a few beers in the buffet car. Arriving in Hue was nothing short of magical. Strolling through the Imperial Citadel felt like stepping back in time to the days of emperors and dynasties. Exploring the Royal Tombs and the tranquil Thien Mu Pagoda gave me a sense of the city's rich history. For thrill-seekers like myself, an optional motorbike excursion is an absolute must. I zoomed through the lush countryside, taking in stunning views of the Perfume River. Along the way, I had the chance to try my hand at making incense sticks and learn first-hand how the locals sow their rice fields using traditional methods. The adventure ended on a high note with a refreshing Huda beer, crispy fried spring rolls, and a mouth-watering stir-fried rice noodle dish — all for less than £8. In fact, you'd be hard-pressed to find a place that charges more than £1 for a beer. The same goes for the city of Hoi An — except it's the food that captivated me most here. After a scenic private coach ride through the breathtaking mountain pass of Hai Van, arriving in Hoi An felt like a love letter, thanks to its lantern-lit streets, ancient architecture and riverside charm. If you're craving a break from spring rolls, noodles, and rice, a visit to Madam Khanh's – The Bánh Mì Queen is a must. Bánh mì is a national sandwich, now known across the world, that blends French and Vietnamese flavours. The much-loved dish is made from a crispy baguette filled with savoury meats such as pork, chicken, or pâté, along with pickled vegetables, fresh herbs, cucumber, and a tangy sauce — an irresistible fusion of textures and tastes. The stunning Saigon Central Post Office came after, with its intricate design making it a photographer's dream. Several hearty mouthfuls were enough to fuel us on a bike ride through lush rice paddies, relaxing on the golden sands of An Bang Beach, before witnessing the incredible skill of local tailors, who crafted two custom suits for me in just a few hours, all for only $250 USD. It was hard to tear ourselves away, but the electrifying energy of Ho Chi Minh City was calling — a sharp contrast to the peaceful calm of Hoi An. A tour in a Cyclo (a bit like a rickshaw, but with riders sitting at the front) is the perfect way to experience this vibrant city's pulse and rich history. We passed the Reunification Palace, where the Vietnam War came to a dramatic end in 1975. Next, we saw the Landing Zone, the apartment building where US government workers were evacuated by helicopter during the Fall of Saigon. 6 6 6 The stunning Saigon Central Post Office came after, with its intricate design making it a photographer's dream. Then came my highlight: House 287/70 on Nguyen Dinh Chieu Street, home to a secret bunker that once hid nearly two tonnes of Viet Cong weapons during the 1968 Tet Offensive. Of course, none of this quite compared to the harrowing Cu Chi Tunnels, an underground network of supply routes once used by Viet Cong soldiers. The experience gave a sobering look at the resilience of the Vietnamese people during the war. If you're claustrophobic, though, you might want to skip crawling along the restored tunnels. It'll only cost you £1, after all.
Forbes
31-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Forbes
A Daytripper's Guide: Where To Eat And Drink In OId Town Dubrovnik
Old Town, Dubrovnik. Ivan Vuković Dubrovnik's Old Town isn't just a living postcard of medieval limestone streets and terracotta rooftops with uninterrupted Adriatic views—it's a UNESCO World Heritage site with roots stretching back to the 7th century. Its iconic city walls, which have protected this marble paradise for over 500 years, have always been a magnet for travelers. But since Game of Thrones premiered in 2011—casting Dubrovnik as the fictional King's Landing—the city has experienced a dramatic surge in visitors. With all that beauty and history comes the crowds, especially during cruise ship season, when daytrippers pour through the city gates like extras from a Renaissance fair. Is it even possible to make the most of a day in Dubrovnik's Old Town and avoid rookie mistakes? I turned to my favorite local guide, Ivan Vuković, whose Game of Thrones tours (no dragons, but plenty of wit) and off-the-beaten-path excursions have earned him cult status among travelers seeking the real, unfiltered Dubrovnik. A view of Old Town, Dubrovnik. Ivan Vuković Whatever you do, respect the 'Walk of Shame' steps, which have been around centuries longer than the show. Their real name is the Jesuit Stairs, inspired by Rome's iconic Spanish Steps—a true 18th-century Baroque masterpiece. Leading up to the grand Church of St. Ignatius, they're one of the city's most dramatic architectural gems. Those iconic steps—immortalized by Cersei's infamous stroll—are newly polished for summer, and I was mortified to learn that people actually strip down for photos here. 'Do not get naked on that infamous walk of shame,' Vuković says. 'And please, do not scream 'shame'; we all have PTSD from it in Dubrovnik.' Crowds and heat can be daunting in peak summer. 'Use Buža and Ploče gates to dodge the cruise ship hordes who get dropped off at Pile gate,' Ivan advises. 'We built tiny gates as nobody had a clue that tourism was gonna be a big thing.' And don't skip a walk around the city walls—a 1.2-mile stretch circling the Old Town. 'Finish your daytripping with a walk around the walls,' says Vuković. 'Best time? Late afternoon. Get your camera ready!' Pro tip: If you want to see Dubrovnik through a local's eyes (and learn more about those infamous steps), book a Game of Thrones tour with Vuković. He offers a variety of tours if GOT isn't your speed. Now that you know how to be a savvy daytripper, here's where to eat and drink inside the city walls even if it's for a few hours only. Peka at Local. Local If you want to experience Dubrovnik like a local, book a reservation at Local—the new outpost of Marija and Zlatko Papak's wildly successful Eat With Locals experience, right in Old Town. It's the first-ever spot where travelers can get a slice of peka—a traditional Dalmatian dish where meat, potatoes, and veggies are slow-cooked under a bell-shaped dome covered in hot coals, resulting in tender, smoky, melt-in-your-mouth perfection. While peka is the star, you'll also find the most perfect charcuterie and cheese spread (all local, of course), Marija's homemade bread, fresh salad, and apple strudel. And yes, even inside the city walls, the Papaks pour local wine and homemade grappa like old friends welcoming you home and you'll always walk away with strangers-turned-new friends. Chilly prawns at Above 5 Rooftop Restaurant. Above 5 Rooftop Restaurant Nestled atop a 16th-century building, this spot remains the only rooftop restaurant in Old Town and the 360 views are incredible . It's a climb up five flights to a sleek, elegant rooftop where every bite feels like a mini celebration. The menu blends Mediterranean flavors with modern gastronomy. My personal highlights are chilly prawns served with marinated red cabbage, butternut squash purée, and pickled baby beetroot and the chef's version of surf n' turf—a zucchini roll filled with lobster salad, filet mignon, roasted cauliflower cream, and Bordelaise sauce. And whatever ice cream creation is, order without hesitation. Above 5 Rooftop Restaurant. Above 5 Rooftop Restaurant Bonus: The restaurant is part of a gorgeous 4-star luxury hotel, Hotel Stari Grad, spread across two historic Old Town buildings, complete with Icona spa (a true hidden oasis with standout services) and a cocktail bar where the bartender nails the perfect Americano. Trust me, you'll want to linger. Azur is praised for innovative fusion dishes like pulled pork tacos and seared tuna, balancing bold flavors with fresh Adriatic ingredients and Asian influences—and perfect if you're seeking something off the beaten path from traditional Croatian fare. 'It's owned by a great local chef, Darko Perojević,' says Vuković. It's situated next door to the iconic Bard Buža bar. Vuković notes that Bard Buža bar is still more local than the other Buža bar, where tourists jump off the cliffs. 'It can be spicy and you will get your hands dirty.' It's wise to order the salmon pillows and the CroAsian seafood Laksa. For the best gelato in town, Peppino's is a must. Creamy, artisanal gelato made daily with fresh ingredients, offering both classic and inventive flavors to cool you down after a day in the sun. Flavors range from traditional pistachio and stracciatella to creative combinations featuring local Croatian ingredients. Forty Four. Forty Four Owned by NBA player Bojan Bogdanović (jersey number 44, hence the name) and Damir Bogdanović, Forty Four is celebrated for its exquisite seafood offerings—be sure to order whatever crudo is featured on the menu and the lobster pasta if it's available. The restaurant masterfully combines elevated, modern seafood and pasta dishes and traditional Croatian dishes done right. The wine list is also noteworthy and I fell hard for the Crvik Blasius Malvasija Dubrovačka—an organe wine that pairs perfectly with literally any dish on the menu. Bonus: There's also a hotel attached, Guesthouse Forty Four, and the duo are behind Villa 44—a gorgeous villa in Old Town, in the center of Stradun. Black risotto at Konoba Pupo. Ivan Vuković This wonderland is a combination of family recipes, fisherman's old-style cooking, and local ingredients. Go for the Šporki Makaruli ('dirty macaroni')—a traditional Dubrovnik pasta with a hearty, meaty ragù sauce made with wine and plenty of onions. Konoba Pupo is a hidden gem for authentic Dalmatian flavors, particularly praised for its rich black risotto (made with cuttlefish ink) and hearty pasta dishes. Owner Viktor Kužnin is often around and can pick out the best bottle of Dingač wine (and might even sit down and join you for a glass or three!). Bonus: Just across the way, the team has opened a gorgeous pastry shop with a stellar menu of sweets and plenty of great wine. Don't miss a slice of the typical Ston cake—a pastry where layers of penne pasta are mixed with nuts and sweet cream, named for the nearby town famous for its medieval walls and salt. D'Vino Wine Bar. D'Vino Wine Bar D'Vino is a top spot for wine lovers wanting to explore Croatia's diverse varietals, paired with artisanal cheeses and charcuterie. The knowledgeable staff guides guests through Croatia's unique wine regions, from full-bodied reds of the Pelješac Peninsula to crisp whites from Istria. 'The One With da Boss' tasting is the best, letting you sample rare and small-producer bottles from the owner's archive. The laid-back atmosphere is perfect for people-watching along the bustling Old Town streets, whether you need that essential morning espresso or want to unwind with a cold Croatian beer after exploring the medieval walls. The best part? It's across from D'Vino, so if your group is split between beer and wine, you can happily collide on the patio with your drink of choice. Holy Burek in Dubrovnik's Old Town. Holy Burek This beloved bakery serves up savory pastries that are crispy outside, rich and melty inside. During peak season, thousands of bureks—a flaky Balkan pastry filled with cheese, meat, or spinach—are made daily. Go for whatever's fresh out of the oven and wash it down with ayran, a refreshing yogurt-based drink. It's a traditional sidekick to balance the buttery goodness. 'It's perfect for people watching, a great wine selection, and live music every night,' says Vuković. This café dates back to 1927 and occupies the spot of the former Manon Café, a legendary Dubrovnik gathering place between the world wars. 'It reminds me of my childhood, still tucked in Antuninska street, one of many Old Town side streets,' says Vuković. 'We skipped classes and went there—pssst, do not tell my mum. Lovely simple sandwiches with homemade bread, cheese from oil, and prosciutto.' For a genuine taste of local life away from the tourist crowds, this is a must.
