01-07-2025
Rouge rules: 7 timepieces with red-hot dials to fire up your collection
As seen at the world's largest watch fair in April 2025, one trend blazed brighter than the rest: Red dials. Whether luscious burgundy or fiery scarlet, the colour dominated the conversation as leading manufactures reimagined their most iconic timepieces through bold, expressive palettes. From Rolex's ombre fade to Chanel's enamelled artistry, red emerged not just as a statement of style, but as a canvas for technical mastery and modern creativity.
ROLEX
One of the dark horses at this year's Watches and Wonders Geneva 2025, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 31 flaunts an alluring red ombre dial that transitions from a fiery red centre to a deep black edge. This marks the first time Rolex has applied this dramatic colourway to the ombre design since reintroducing the gradient technique to its catalogue in 2019.
The red ombre dial represents a continuity of design that Rolex first introduced in the 1980s and relaunched in 2019. Crafted using Physical Vapour Deposition (PVD), the manufacturing process involves the delicate application of black lacquer overseen by specialists, who ensure the harmonious transition from vibrant red to darkness. This sophisticated concentric gradient creates a striking chiaroscuro effect – reminiscent of the last rays of sun piercing the horizon at nightfall – enhanced by 10 diamond-set hour markers and a bezel adorned with 46 dazzling brilliant-cut diamonds.
The 31mm yellow gold case pairs with the President bracelet, originally created for the Day-Date in 1956, featuring three-piece solid links with ceramic inserts for enhanced flexibility. Driving this creation is the manufacture Calibre 2236, a self-winding movement with a power reserve of 55 hours and Rolex's patented Syloxi hairspring in silicon.
CHANEL
This year, Chanel's Watchmaking Creation Studio pays tribute to Gabrielle Chanel's impact on the beauty world with the Blush Watch Capsule Collection. This vibrant series transposes the palette and textures of Chanel's cosmetic universe into contemporary watchmaking artistry, celebrating the pioneering makeup line launched in the 1920s that changed fragrance and cosmetics codes forever.
A standout in this collection is the five-piece limited edition J12 Box 'Dripping Art' – an exceptional watchmaking pentaptych – an artwork comprising five panels or sections. Each of the five J12 watches features unique drops of nail polish in varying pink and red shades recreated in Grand Feu enamel on ceramic dials. This technically complex feat required 100 colour tests and 200 hours of research to perfect the enamel-to-ceramic application process.
Conceived as an art object, the five J12 watches are showcased in a lacquered wooden box. The interior mimics the splash pattern of glossy drops to create a unified artistic statement, where the dripping patterns flow from one watch to the next. All five of the 38mm timepieces feature the Caliber 12.1 self-winding manufacture movement with COSC certification and black finishing.
HERMES
With the Hermes Cut Le Temps Suspendu, the French maison dares to reimagine time – not as something to be measured, but savoured. First introduced in 2011, the Le Temps Suspendu complication allows the wearer to pause the watch hands with a push of a button, suspending the outward display of time, while the movement quietly ticks on within. It's a poetic gesture that celebrates the now and by cultivating this paradox, the time we forget is the time we cherish.
In 2025, this whimsical complication debuts in the bold Hermes Cut collection for women, which was launched last year. The 39mm rose gold case frames a finely sandblasted dial and is available in three elegant variations: A one-off, red-tinted version as pictured here, and two opaline silver-toned models – one with a polished bezel, the other with 60 brilliant-cut diamonds. The timepiece is powered by the Manufacture Hermes H1912 self-winding movement, enhanced by the Time Suspended module comprising 133 components. Featuring a 360-degree retrograde display and a quirky 24-second indicator that runs anticlockwise, this surprising pairing is a playful nod to Hermes' free-spirited ingenuity.
HUBLOT
To celebrate 20 years of one of modern horology's most disruptive icons, Hublot unveils a quintet of limited editions that fuse the original Big Bang design DNA with the advanced technology of the Big Bang Unico. With these five commemorative timepieces, Hublot showcases a curated selection of signature materials, each representing its unrivalled expertise and pioneering spirit in material innovation. Among them, the Big Bang 20th Anniversary Red Magic stands out as a bold tribute to Hublot's mastery of high-tech ceramics.
Limited to just 100 pieces, this edition showcases Hublot's red ceramic – an industry-first achievement unveiled in 2018. Achieving vivid colour in ceramic is a technically challenging process as it requires an exacting balance of pressure, temperature, and pigments to maintain structural integrity – a feat that Hublot has successfully industrialised. This vibrant Red Magic ceramic case pairs dramatically with a carbon-patterned dial, creating what Hublot describes as 'boldly and proudly singular' aesthetics.
The 43mm timepiece features a redesigned case with distinctive layered construction and knurled bezel edges reminiscent of early Big Bang models. The structured rubber strap with treaded lozenge pattern recalls the very first Big Bangs, now enhanced with the Big Bang Unico's One Click strap-change system for effortless swapping without tools. The watch is powered by the UNICO MHUB1280.20YEARS calibre, an in-house automatic flyback chronograph movement with a 72-hour power reserve, column wheel architecture, and a special 22k King Gold rotor engraved to commemorate two decades of the Big Bang.
The Red Magic edition is joined by four equally compelling anniversary models: Titanium Ceramic (500 pieces), King Gold Ceramic (250 pieces), the stealthy All Black (500 pieces), and the ultra-durable Full Magic Gold (100 pieces).
MONTBLANC
The Swiss watchmaker joins the crimson dial movement with its striking 1858 Split Second Chronograph Limited Edition 100 that draws inspiration from a 42mm military monopusher split second chronograph from the 1930s. The 44mm stainless steel case features a fixed white gold fluted bezel that frames a dark burgundy sunray dial, which lends a captivating yet elegant aesthetic to the watch.
At its heart beats the manufacture Calibre MB M16.31, a hand-finished, manually wound movement inspired by Minerva's legendary 19-09CH from 1909 and its 1930s successor, the 17-29. The rattrapante, or split-seconds complication, enables measuring intermediate times via dual chronograph hands controlled by pushers – one stopping while the other continues, then "catching up" when released.
Collectors will appreciate the traditional Minerva details that enhance the watch's vintage appeal: A tachymeter scale for speed calculations, white luminescent Arabic numerals, and black chronograph counters. The movement showcases handcrafted Cotes de Geneve finishing, V-shaped bridges, and an 18-screw balance wheel. Completed with a matching burgundy alligator-print leather strap, this 100-piece limited edition is a great example of how red dials are evolving from bold statements into refined expressions of contemporary luxury watchmaking.
TAG HEUER
To celebrate its return as the official timekeeper of Formula 1, Tag Heuer unveils one of its boldest watches – the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph | F1. This 10-piece limited edition pays tribute to the brand's storied motorsport heritage and its legacy of precision engineering.
Housed in a 41mm white ceramic and sapphire case, the watch is powered by the new automatic Calibre TH81-00, Tag Heuer's lightest and most complex movement to date. The split-seconds (rattrapante) function allows for timing two separate intervals simultaneously – essential in racing, where every millisecond counts.
The vivid, red-tinted translucent dial radiates race-day adrenaline, with chronograph counters styled after racetrack elements featuring an asphalt-like texture, white and yellow starting-grid accents, and official Formula 1 typography. Adding a dynamic flourish, the counters proudly display the iconic phrase made famous by British racing commentator David Croft: 'LIGHTS OUT & AWAY WE GO': A fitting tribute to the high-octane thrill of every Grand Prix start, now immortalised on the dial. A hand-lacquered TAG Heuer shield and discreet F1 logo complete the design.
Finishing touches include a white calfskin strap with contrasting red stitching and titanium folding clasp. Viewed from the full sapphire caseback, the movement boasts an oscillating weight fashioned in the iconic Tag Heuer shield shape with a brushed finish, as well as a hand-painted white and red kerb-inspired design.
TUDOR
Beloved by collectors for its vintage proportions and dive-watch pedigree, the Tudor Black Bay 58 returns with a striking new dial colour and Master Chronometer certification. Inspired by a 1990s prototype Submariner that never made it to production, this 39mm stainless steel tool watch evokes nostalgia with its domed satin radial-brushed burgundy dial and matching bezel insert that contrast beautifully against silver accents. Its Snowflake hands, a Tudor hallmark since 1969, are filled with Grade A Swiss Super-LumiNova for optimal legibility in low-light conditions.
The watch is equipped with the COSC- and METAS-certified Manufacture Calibre MT5400-U, boasting 65 hours of power reserve, a non-magnetic silicon balance spring, and extreme chronometric precision under all conditions. Ergonomics are enhanced by a flush-set screw-down crown and the choice of three strap options with the Tudor T-fit rapid adjustment system for enhanced comfort and a secure fit: A stainless steel five-link bracelet; a vintage-style, three-link rivet-style bracelet; and a form-fitted black rubber strap with a snowflake motif interior.
