04-07-2025
How magnums of wine are bucking the trend of miserable moderation
With magnums, you really want a wine you can settle into which probably explains why, in summer, the most popular wine to pour from magnum is rosé. Naturally, you can now find the hugely popular La Vieille Ferme (aka Chicken Wine) brand in magnums (Morrisons, £16) while the Provence rosé brand AIX forged its reputation by selling in magnums (Majestic, £36) as well as even bigger bottles; has AIX in 3-litre jeroboams as well as 6-litre methuselahs and 15-litre nebuchadnezzars, a show-off size that holds the equivalent of 20 normal bottles of wine, weighs about 38kg and is completely impractical to pour, requiring either a specialist cradle to hold them or a chiropractor to sort your neck out afterwards.
Prosecco is another big-bottle favourite, which is why you find magnums of it on the supermarket shelf, while Arcedeckne-Butler says that, during warmer weather, Private Cellar customers also buy a lot of magnums of lighter reds: a Private Cellar top seller is Weingut Mehofer Pinot Noir Neudegg, Weingut Mehofer 2022, Austria (£42 for a magnum), a fruity and refreshing red that could be served chilled.
As you might expect, in the run up to Christmas 'claret magnums top the charts,' says Astbury. 'And then there is champagne, which people buy for parties or as presents. Generally speaking, magnums of white are less of a thing and, for us, are driven by the classics. We always have magnums of chablis, sancerre and white burgundy in stock, ready to chill and pour. And several of our en primeur burgundy whites are available in magnum, from bourgogne blanc up to grand cru level. The volumes are never big, but we love magnums and it's great to be able to offer them.'
The mention of en primeur (wine, generally good stuff, sold while it's still in the barrel) raises another point: the ratio of surface area to volume provided by a magnum is thought to offer the best conditions for ageing fine wines, another reason why collectors go for them.
But most of all, magnums are about mood. Opening a magnum of Muga Rioja at a small lunch I cooked for my 40th felt special, while one of the most fun wine dinners I've been to was hosted by generous colleagues Tim Atkin and Kate Janecek who liberated magnums from their cellars to share with a dozen or so friends round a table with very lively chat.
One last thing: magnums often cost a little more than two single bottles, due to the higher cost of the bottle and smaller volumes sold. But it's not much to pay to exude upbeat, feast-vibes and commitment to relaxation.
