Latest news with #mixology
The Guardian
24 minutes ago
- General
- The Guardian
When life gives you cumquats or kumquats make a marmalade and mezcal cocktail
In our Melbourne garden, the only fruit tree that produces with any regularity is a cumquat. Bitter little things, cumquats – spelled kumquats outside Australia – are not quite as versatile as most other citrus. So, I say 'when life gives you cumquats, make marmalade!' – then use it in a punchy and tangy cocktail. The Lady Marmalade is a late-night specialty in our household. You can make a non-alcoholic version by shaking up the marmalade with a tangy fruit juice. Grapefruit with a splash of lime works well; the marmalade adds texture and complexity that elevates the juice to mocktail status. The cocktail is made with mezcal and apricot brandy but you can swap out the mezcal for aged tequila, brandy or whisky. You could also use a brighter marmalade based on lime, lemon or grapefruit, and switch the lime juice for lemon to pair with a lighter spirit. To make the spiced marmalade, you'll need a saucepan, juicer, microplane, measuring jug and scale. For the cocktail, you'll need a rocks glass, shaker and a jigger. 500g cumquats 1 cup (250ml) water, or enough to cover the cumquats250g granulated white sugar, or to taste (I like to keep my marmalade quite tart)Pinch salt 1 tsp ground cumin ½ tsp smoked paprika ½ lemon, zest and juice Quarter or slice the cumquats (depending on size). You can cover the cumquats with the water and leave them to soak overnight if you have time. This softens the fruit, which helps it to cook faster and keeps the flavour fresher, but it's not imperative. If you do this, cook the cumquats in the same water you soaked them in. Put the cumquats, water and sugar in a saucepan and stir over a low heat for 10-15 minutes until the fruit is tender and the sugar has dissolved. Add the salt, spices, lemon zest and juice while still over a low heat, then increase the heat and bring the mixture to a rolling boil. Reduce the heat to medium and continue boiling for about 20 minutes, or until the marmalade has thickened. To check if it has reached setting point, place a small plate in the freezer until cold, then drop a dollop of marmalade on the cold plate. Tilt the plate and, if the marmalade doesn't run, you're good to go. If it runs, continue boiling for a few minutes, then use the same cold plate method to check again. Or you can just eyeball it, if you're a cowboy like me. Fish out any pips you can see. If marmalade is properly jarred and sealed in a sterile container, it can last in the pantry for up to six months. Once opened, keep it refrigerated and use within 12 weeks. 45ml mezcal 15ml apricot brandy2 tbsp spiced cumquat marmalade30ml lime juiceCubed iceCumquat halves, to garnish Add the alcohol, marmalade and lime juice to your shaker tins with ice and shake hard. 'Dump' into your glass (in other words don't strain it, just pour in the same ice you shook with), adding more ice if necessary to fill the glass. Garnish with a cumquat half. This is an edited extract from Behind the Home Bar by Cara Devine, with photography by Gareth Sobey (A$36.99, NZ$36.99, Hardie Grant Books), out 1 July
The Guardian
12 hours ago
- General
- The Guardian
When life gives you cumquats or kumquats make a marmalade and mezcal cocktail
In our Melbourne garden, the only fruit tree that produces with any regularity is a cumquat. Bitter little things, cumquats – spelled kumquats outside Australia – are not quite as versatile as most other citrus. So, I say 'when life gives you cumquats, make marmalade!' – then use it in a punchy and tangy cocktail. The Lady Marmalade is a late-night specialty in our household. You can make a non-alcoholic version by shaking up the marmalade with a tangy fruit juice. Grapefruit with a splash of lime works well; the marmalade adds texture and complexity that elevates the juice to mocktail status. The cocktail is made with mezcal and apricot brandy but you can swap out the mezcal for aged tequila, brandy or whisky. You could also use a brighter marmalade based on lime, lemon or grapefruit, and switch the lime juice for lemon to pair with a lighter spirit. To make the spiced marmalade, you'll need a saucepan, juicer, microplane, measuring jug and scale. For the cocktail, you'll need a rocks glass, shaker and a jigger. 500g cumquats 1 cup (250ml) water, or enough to cover the cumquats250g granulated white sugar, or to taste (I like to keep my marmalade quite tart)Pinch salt 1 tsp ground cumin ½ tsp smoked paprika ½ lemon, zest and juice Quarter or slice the cumquats (depending on size). You can cover the cumquats with the water and leave them to soak overnight if you have time. This softens the fruit, which helps it to cook faster and keeps the flavour fresher, but it's not imperative. If you do this, cook the cumquats in the same water you soaked them in. Put the cumquats, water and sugar in a saucepan and stir over a low heat for 10-15 minutes until the fruit is tender and the sugar has dissolved. Add the salt, spices, lemon zest and juice while still over a low heat, then increase the heat and bring the mixture to a rolling boil. Reduce the heat to medium and continue boiling for about 20 minutes, or until the marmalade has thickened. To check if it has reached setting point, place a small plate in the freezer until cold, then drop a dollop of marmalade on the cold plate. Tilt the plate and, if the marmalade doesn't run, you're good to go. If it runs, continue boiling for a few minutes, then use the same cold plate method to check again. Or you can just eyeball it, if you're a cowboy like me. Fish out any pips you can see. If marmalade is properly jarred and sealed in a sterile container, it can last in the pantry for up to six months. Once opened, keep it refrigerated and use within 12 weeks. 45ml mezcal 15ml apricot brandy2 tbsp spiced cumquat marmalade30ml lime juiceCubed iceCumquat halves, to garnish Add the alcohol, marmalade and lime juice to your shaker tins with ice and shake hard. 'Dump' into your glass (in other words don't strain it, just pour in the same ice you shook with), adding more ice if necessary to fill the glass. Garnish with a cumquat half. This is an edited extract from Behind the Home Bar by Cara Devine, with photography by Gareth Sobey (A$36.99, NZ$36.99, Hardie Grant Books), out 1 July
The Guardian
a day ago
- Lifestyle
- The Guardian
Cocktail of the week: Câv's grapefruit ranch water
In essence, this is a twist on a classic ranch water that deviates slightly from our house recipe to make it more accessible for domestic purposes. It hinges on the bright, citrus notes of Alma Finca orange liqueur, and we add some homemade grapefruit cordial to give it some extra pinch; at home, just steep some grapefruit peel in the sugar syrup overnight instead. If you like, make up a big batch and serve socially by putting it in a soda stream at the table for people to help themselves. Serves 1 15ml fresh lime juice 15ml standard 1:1 sugar syrup Grapefruit peel, to steep in the syrup (optional; see recipe introduction)15ml Alma Finca orange liqueur 30ml tequila – we use Ocho blancoSoda water, to top1 wedge grapefruit, to garnish Measure the lime, syrup, Alma Finca and tequila into a highball glass filled with ice, stir to combine, then top with soda, garnish and serve straight away. Chris Tanner, co-owner, Câv, London E2
Globe and Mail
3 days ago
- Entertainment
- Globe and Mail
Elem's self-taught bartender turns kitchen waste into cocktail gold
The back bar at Elem looks a little different than most. For one thing, instead of open shelves showcasing different types of liquors and liqueurs, the Vancouver restaurant has a display of small glass jars, each one with a handwritten label. Some jars hold dry ingredients, running the gamut from Madagascar vanilla and saffron to wormwood and gentian root. But many others are filled with house-made potions. There's shiitake tincture, pea shell broth, huckleberry liqueur. Nasturtium tincture. Magnolia vinegar. Shrimp gin. These are the elements that Elem content and beverage director Winnie Sun uses to create the restaurant's buzzy no-waste cocktail program. Sun is something of a mad scientist, and has quickly become known around Vancouver for her unique, creative and a little weird cocktail creations – which turn whatever kitchen leftovers Elem chef Vish Mayekar throws at her into liquid gold. Along with the usual mixology tools of shakers and strainers, Sun's bar – referred to internally as her cocktail laboratory – also includes a setup that looks more suited to a science experiment than a trendy restaurant. There's a giant food-grade tub filled with water with a sous vide machine attached to it. And there's a rotovap: an evaporation machine that removes residue from liquid and is commonly used in chemical labs. A series of dark glass panels engulf the end of the bar in a semi-circle, and they're covered with white scribblings – ideas, reminders, half-formed recipes. Much the same way that a chef changes their menu based on what's in season, Sun updates her cocktail list based on what's available from the kitchen. It creates an exciting dialogue between the two halves of the restaurant, which work in a funky kind of harmony. 'It keeps me on my toes,' Sun says, 'because I never know what's coming.' A few weeks ago, there were cheese rinds left over from a pea pasta dish; Sun used them in a martini, infusing them into gin. She also boiled the discarded pea husks with thyme, mint and parsley to create a broth that was added to the drink along with vermouth. Currently on the cocktail menu – which is constantly changing – is the Seoul, which is Sun's play on a paloma. She takes tequila and, using her sous vide machine, infuses it with a gochujang caramel leftover from the kitchen – then combines it with grapefruit soda and a few drops of sesame oil. 'Almost every cocktail that I do is a spur-of-the-moment inspiration,' she says. 'Your first thought is your instinct, and you should follow that.' It's an impressive skill set to have, especially for someone who is entirely self-taught. Sun didn't go to mixology school, didn't cut her teeth working as a bar back. Instead, she simply observed bartenders who she admired both at home and abroad. In particular, she credits Andrea Civettini of Barcelona's famed Galileo, who she met on a trip to Spain in 2023, as a major inspiration. 'He showed me his back bar,' she recalls, 'and how to do things his way.' And despite what seems to be a natural talent, it wasn't a straight-ahead path that led Sun to a life behind the bar. She was born in Shandong, China, and moved to Burnaby when she was 8. Food and drink were not a big part of her childhood. 'I grew up on takeout,' she says with a smile. 'Maybe it was a really big absence of homemade things growing up that made me curious, like, 'Okay, what can I do?'' Mocktails catch up to their booze-filled counterparts on restaurant menus While working at SportChek when she was 18, she became fast friends with her manager Hassib Sarwari, whose dream was to open a restaurant. His first venture ended up being Surrey's Afghan Kitchen. Sun helped out with marketing, but she soon left town to study immigration law at the University of Sussex – until the pandemic forced her to return to B.C. During that time, Sarwari was gearing up to open Zarak: a higher-end Afghan restaurant on Vancouver's trendy Main Street. Sun came on board as partner and bar manager – her first-ever bartending gig – all the while finishing her degree online. Somewhere along the way, she realized that becoming a lawyer wasn't actually what she wanted. 'I threw more energy into hospitality and it brought me more energy back,' says Sun. 'The more you invest in it, the more reward you get from it. I could never imagine sitting at a desk, sifting through papers.' Zarak opened in late 2021 and was an instant hit, in no small part thanks to Sun's kooky and delicious drinks. When the space next door – a sofa store – became available, Sarwari and Sun decided to become their own competition, partnering with chef Mayekar on Elem, which opened in November of last year. It's allowed Sun to take her skills to the next level. 'We absolutely refer to her as a genius,' says Sarwari. 'It's very inspiring to be around, because it allows us to match her level of dedication and commitment towards her craft.' Sarwari thinks of Elem's cocktail list 'almost like a food menu, but made with alcohol.' (Though many of the drinks also have zero-proof versions.) One of his current favourites is the White Rabbit, Sun's play on an espresso martini. Made with vodka that's been sous vide with decaf espresso, and clarified milk that's been infused with White Rabbits (a popular Chinese candy) and arbol chile, it's a nod to Sun's heritage. The candy's wrapper is used as a garnish, and the spent coffee beans are sent to the kitchen to be turned into petit fours. 'Probably the best espresso martini I've ever had,' says Sarwari. Sun usually arrives at Elem around nine in the morning, relishing the quiet before the dinner rush. This is when she does her best ideating, and when she prepares all of the potions that will become key ingredients in her drinks. (She also makes many of her own garnishes, including the marshmallows that sit atop her S'mores Old Fashioned – they're torched at the table, of course.) 'I try really hard,' Sun says. 'I really wanted to prove to myself – not for others, but for myself – that I could do this.' Recipe by Winnie Sun, partner, content and beverage director at Elem This is a home version that won't have Elem's gochujang-caramel tequila, but any tequila would work well for a refreshing summer gochujang paloma. Gochujang syrup: Combine sugar, water and gochujang in a saucepan. Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly until sugar dissolves. Bring to a boil. Remove from heat and whisk in vanilla extract or caramel syrup. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve to remove any solids. For cocktail (or mocktail):
Forbes
5 days ago
- Entertainment
- Forbes
7 Tea Martinis That Are Redefining Cocktail Culture
Tea can be a great way to switch up the espresso martini trend. Espresso martinis have been trending for a long time now, but not everyone is into the flavors of coffee – isn't it time to give tea its moment in the cocktail spotlight? What Is A Tea Martini? We all are familiar with a classic martini, usually a chilled glass involving a vodka or gin base and then perhaps a bit of vermouth and olive or a twist. A tea martini is a twist in itself, as it'll include that vodka or gin, and probably the lemon twist as well, but also incorporate a tea element, such as Earl Grey or matcha or chai, as the base. Why Should You Try A Tea Martini? Seriously, why not try it? The infusion of tea in a spirit has a complex flavor and brings a sophistication to that martini. And, you can play with it to make it what you want to be, by switching up the type of tea, spirits, and sweeteners you incorporate. Honeypenny at Shinji's in New York City. At Shinji's in New York City, beverage director Jonathan Adler created this tea martini featuring Bombay Sapphire Gin, Beeswax Vodka, Vesper Aperitif (made from chamomile, Calendula golden raisins, honeysuckle, cinchona bark, nutritional yeast, Honey and Grey Goose vodka), mead, Cocchi Americano, and water. "Derived from the classic Vesper martini, everything surrounding this drink is a reference to James Bond. James Bond's original secretary was named Moneypenny and because there are many honey notes in the cocktail, we named it Honeypenny. Normally Bond drinks his martinis shaken not stirred which some say over-dillutes the drink. Our vesper is neither shaken nor stirred, rather poured directly out of the bottle, at perfect dilution, for immediate enjoyment. The Vesper Aperitif which includes chamomile as one of its botanicals adds a subtle floral and herbaceous note to the drink." Church Hill Chai at Gather & Hem in Richmond, Virginia/ At Gather & Hem in Richmond, Virginia, named for Richmond's historic Church Hill district, this martini combines chai tea, caramel, Baileys, and Sazerac rye, topped with star anise. Smooth and spicy with none of the jitters, the Church Hill Chai knocks the espresso martini off its pedestal. 'Richmond's history meets mixology in the Church Hill Chai, a tea-forward approach to the martini. Layered with spice and depth, this cocktail trades caffeine for character," said Miri Imburg, General Manager. Matcha Martini at Leven Deli Co. in Denver. At Leven Deli Co. in Denver, this cocktail is made with freshly whisked matcha, Jin Jiji India dry gin, honey simple, fresh lemon juice, lavender and an edible flower garnish. "With its bright green color, our matcha martini is a lighter way to celebrate the summer season. This martini is a great addition to our menu alongside the espresso martini for breakfast or lunch. The flavors are earthy, with fresh citrus tones, a botanical spirit and floral sweetness," said Ryan Hennessy, Leven Bar Manager. Matchatini at Hudson VU in New York City. At Hudson VU in New York City, the Matchatini is a modern and unexpected alternative to the espresso martini. It's a smooth and silky martini with Gray Whale gin, coconut milk adding a velvety texture, and matcha. The earthy flavor of the matcha is paired with almond bitters, lime for tartness and pineapple juice for a tropical note. Served in a Nick and Nora glass with a stunning dried baby's breath flower garnish and a sprinkle of coconut, the cocktail is layered and balanced -- and tastes as good as it looks! Adrian Foster, head bartender of Hudson VU says: 'Inspired by the growing love for matcha as a clean, feel-good energy source, the Matchatini offers a fresher take on the classic espresso martini. While the espresso martini leans rich and intense, the Matchatini is a more vibrant option that still delivers a gentle energy boost, thanks to the matcha, without the crash of espresso or added sugar. It's perfect for daytime sipping or warm-weather occasions when you want something spirited but not too heavy.' Chaitini at Tailor in Nashville, Tennessee. At Tailor in Nashville, Tennessee, they are known for their tasting menu experience that blends South Asian flavors with Southern hospitality, led by culinary creator Vivek Surti. The Chaitini brings Tailor's beloved house chai into cocktail form, combining Buffalo Trace bourbon, Licor 43, Lustau Solera Superior Cream Sherry, black tea, chai masala and cream. The result is bold and warming, with spiced depth and a silky finish. 'Even before I started drinking chai, my day revolved around it; I remember vividly my parents and grandparents bringing out their chai supplies in the morning, boiling water, warming up milk and going through the daily morning ritual of making chai. Our signature chai recipe comes from my dad, who worked on his recipe for a decade before perfecting it, and every dinner service at Tailor ends with a cup of Dad's homemade chai. It's a tradition guests look forward at each visit, and in the past year, we've expanded on that ritual by offering chai in cocktail form as a Chaitini," said Vivek Surti, founder and owner of Tailor. Matcha Made Me Do It at W Philadelphia's WET Bar. At W Philadelphia's WET Bar, this cocktail is made with Bacardi Superior Rum, strawberry infused vodka, dry vermouth, and matcha. Beverage Director Isai Xolalpa says: 'A strawberry matcha is a rising summer drink and served as the inspiration for this cocktail. At W Philadelphia's WET Bar, we craft our menus for mindful consumption, which is why featuring matcha as a better-for-you alternative to the beloved espresso martini was our answer to a lighter, brighter, slightly caffeinated poolside martini to sip.' Good Intentions Martini at Atria in Flagstaff, Arizona. At Atria in Flagstaff, Arizona, the Good Intentions Martini is a soft, elegant drink, with lavender tea as a foundation, and leans into one of the season's most beloved botanicals: lavender. Both brewed and reduced into a fragrant syrup, it layers botanical depth with butterfly pea-infused gin, bright lemon juice, floral Marigold liqueur, and a cloud of egg white. Blended smooth in an herbaceous, silky sip that feels as calming as it is eye-catching. "We love playing with ingredients that reflect the mood of the season, and Good Intentions is all about slowing down and savoring something a little unexpected. The lavender tea brings something comforting and slow. It's floral, yes, but with structure. It's delicate but not shy, balanced by the sharpness of lemon and the alpine notes in the Marigold," said Michael Hopper, Bar Manager.
