Latest news with #pruning
CNA
27-06-2025
- Science
- CNA
NUS Prof Veera Sekaran and NTU's Dr Shawn Lum on code of practice for pruning tropical trees
The National Parks Board and the Landscape Industry Association Singapore will develop the first code of practice for pruning tropical trees in urban environments. It is hoped that the new guidelines will make the trees less susceptible to pests and diseases. A first draft of the code is expected to be published by mid-2026. Professor Veera Sekaran from the NUS College of Design and Engineering, and Dr Shawn Lum, a senior lecturer at the NTU Asian School of the Environment, shared more about current industry best practices and how the new guidelines will be tailored for tropical trees.
The Guardian
26-06-2025
- General
- The Guardian
Why is so much of life spent clearing up?
Gardening, I've realised, is easy. It's clearing up afterwards that takes all the effort. This is true of many things, from cooking to relationships. Doing them is one thing; sorting the mess out afterwards is another. Planting stuff is a doddle. Planting the right things in the right place is less straightforward. But both are easier than the clear-up. I've learned this the hard way, by working like an ox all day, only to leave the place looking as if a team of oxen has been driven through it. I had thought that pruning trees, fighting hedges, pulling up brambles and obsessively weeding counted as tidying. In this I was mistaken, because cutting, hacking and digging count as tidying only if you, well, tidy up after yourself. Leaving stricken branches and weeds where they lie creates more mess. Obvious really, but at some level I must have been thinking that all that browning vegetation would sort itself out by means of decay and decomposition. Or birds would take it away and build nests. Not so. A gardener friend came round, had a look, said he could see how much work I had done, but inquired as to why I'd left it looking such a mess. This was a fair question, to which I had no answer. He pointed at the path through it, covered in weeds, discarded and growing. 'If I were you,' he advised, sagely, 'I'd get the path nice and clear and everything will go from there.' I did, and he was right. With the pathway clear, the rest of the garden looked a lot better. It feels as if there's a maxim for life in there. I blame myself for my chaos – ye gods, you should see the state of the kitchen when I've finished my culinary magic. But I also blame gardening and cookery programmes. Advice on tidying up, or even merely the importance of it, isn't proffered; you rarely see the gardener with a broom or the chef with a cloth. If tidiness is next to godliness, then I am doomed. I'm determined to change my ways before it's too late. No longer do I venerate the topiarist; it's the poor devil clearing up all the clippings I most admire. The Welsh are on to something when they use 'tidy' to mean good or nice. Yes, that's right. Tidy, in fact. Adrian Chiles is a broadcaster, writer and Guardian columnist
Telegraph
20-06-2025
- General
- Telegraph
The best mini chainsaws and powered pruners, tested by a professional gardener
Keeping garden trees healthy and in shape is no easy task and requires regularly removing and trimming their branches, which can also encourage more fruit and flowers to grow. But there is an art to using a handsaw for pruning and a poorly made cut can leave your plants open to disease. A powered pruning saw can make clean cuts quickly and effortlessly, however. Often called mini chainsaws as they feature a chain rather than a blade, these tools can achieve within a few minutes what would otherwise take you hours. They deserve a place in every gardener's shed alongside faithfuls such as secateurs, lawn mowers, hedge trimmers and garden forks. But great care must be taken when using them, so be sure to follow manufacturer safety guidance and instructions closely. Our top pruners, including models from leading brands such as Stihl, Worx and Bosch, range in price from less than £90 to over £200. They are all battery powered, removing the risk of working around cables, too. Here are our best buys, followed by more on what to look for and frequently asked questions: The best mini chainsaws: At a glance JUMP TO REVIEWS How to choose a mini chainsaws When selecting the right pruner for your garden consider the weight and size of the tool. Will it be easy to manoeuvre and light enough to use for the amount of pruning and trimming you need to do? If you are hoping to clear an overgrown garden with mature shrubs then you'll require a tool that has a higher cutting capacity. If not then a lighter, smaller model may be better. If you've never used a chainsaw before then the thought of tensioning and replacing the chain might seem overwhelming. The pruners tested here all offered clear direction about how to do this, just remember that whether it automatically applies oil or you need to do it manually, you must use oil with the machines. It's advisable to wear ear defenders when using mini chainsaws but you can also check level of noise they make. The sound power level, which is the volume the pruner makes independent of its surroundings, and the sound pressure level, which is the noise measured from a distance that factors in the environment where the pruner is used, should be recorded. Neither are exactly what you'll experience but give you an idea of what to expect. Points to check before you buy: Does the weight and balance of the tool match your strength? What thickness of branch can it cut? What is its battery charge time and run time, and how many cuts can it do in that time? What safety features are there? How we test mini chainsaws I am a professional gardener and have a four-acre garden in Herefordshire that is open to the public. It contains an impressive collection of mature trees and shrubs and pruning plays a large part in my daily work throughout the whole year. Over the last month I've swapped out my usual tools to put these powered pruners to the test. Each mini chainsaw reviewed below has been tested and scored for its design, performance, ease of use, power and cutting capability. I was also looking out for value for money, innovative safety features and importantly for a busy gardener, how comfortable they are to use. I wore safety goggles, ear defenders, safety boots and gloves to test out each power pruner, using them during a dry day in the garden. All the manufacturers recommend that you work from the ground and refrain from using the machines while on a ladder or platform. This guide is regularly checked and updated. Why you can trust Telegraph Recommended Our thorough, real-world tests will always help you find the best gardening product. No manufacturer ever sees Telegraph Recommended reviews before publication and we don't accept payment in exchange for favourable reviews, nor do we allow brands to pay for placement in our articles. All opinions are based on independent expert opinion and our hands-on testing. Visit our Who We Are page to learn more. Best mini chainsaws 1. Best Buy: Stihl GTA 26 The Stihl GTA 26 is great to use from the start. The box has clear labelling and contains everything you need within the storage bag, which also has pockets for the oil (which is included), battery and charger, making it simple to carry around the garden. The battery is impressively small and unintrusive, fitted more as an extension to the handle rather than a lumped on extra. It lasts for approximately 25 minutes (or 80 cuts), but as with all pruners this can vary slightly depending on the conditions. There's even a clear gauge on the side of the tool that lets you know how much charge is left. The vibration is low when you're using it and the saw cuts through the recommended 4cm branches with ease. It's designed to be used with both hands and it's so lightweight that this tool should be comfortably used by most gardeners. Its reported sound levels go up to 86 decibels (dB), similar to the noise of heavy traffic. Finally, accessing the chain for tensioning and replacement is simple, just turn the large wind nut to remove the covering, no tools required. Overall, it's easy to control, comfortable to handle and powerful enough to make light work of pruning. Key specifications 2. Best Value: Stiga PR 100e Kit Battery Pruning Saw Designed for lightweight pruning, this is a comfortable and easy to use machine thanks to its rubberised handles. Although it's light enough to hold in one hand, Stiga suggests using both for safety, and its bright colour makes it easy to spot at all times. The substantial case helps with both storage and travel, which is handy should you need to lend it to a friend or if you're a self-employed gardener. It even comes with a UK and European plug adapter, and packs away neatly. If you have lots of mature roses and shrubs to prune then its battery offers approximately 120 cuts on branches up to 5cm thick. There is even an option to attach the pruner to a Stiga extension pole if you need to reach more than an arm's length away, and it wasn't noisy enough to upset the neighbours. As for maintenance, it has an automatic lubrication system with an oil tank at the top of the tool and a window to view the level, which is a real bonus, though sadly it doesn't come with oil included. The saw has an easily removable chain cover, and the throttle will only work once you press the throttle lock button. A good all-rounder. Key specifications 3. Best Lightweight Powered Pruner: Worx Nitro WG325E This lightweight, compact cordless pruner is easy to set up. The battery takes up to 60 minutes to charge and lasts long enough to make over 150 cuts of 5cm thick hardwood. It slots on to the end of the handle and has a little red button that you can press to see how much charge is left. It's well-balanced, with a comfortable and rubber handle that was easy to use in a densely branched shrub, thanks to its size and low vibration. Its sound power reaches 94dB (while the more ambient sound pressure level is 84dB) and while this isn't an uncomfortable noise, ear defenders, protective glasses and gloves are still recommended. Its safety features include a blade guard which reduces flying debris and a blade sleeve for when its not in use. You also need to press a side button with your thumb at the same time as the trigger to power it on. As for the chain tensioner, it's straightforward to use; to tighten just turn the orange dial clockwise. While it doesn't come with a bottle of oil it has a transparent tank window that makes it easy to see the oil level when you use it. Overall it's a great choice for a small garden. Key specifications Cutting capacity: 5cm Cutting chain: 12cm bar Weight (with battery): 1.4kg Power source: 20 Volt battery 4. Best for Comfort: Bosch EasyChain 18V-15-7 This is a well balanced tool that would be useful for cutting kindling as well as pruning. It takes 80 minutes to charge up the impressively small charger (it would easily fit into a kitchen drawer) then the Bosch 'EasyChain' makes just over 150 cuts. I found it cuts through 13cm branches with ease, making it a good choice for those with mature gardens and established shrubs. It's designed to be used with two hands and boasts soft gripped handles, while the sound levels are not too disruptive (sound pressure is 80dB and sound power is 88dB) even if ear defenders are recommended. For the chain to run, pull the trigger at the same time as depressing the top thumb button. The blade guard also reduces flying debris. Mounting and tensioning the chain is straightforward and the tool comes with a chain tension aid, so all you have to do is unlock a side panel and tension the chain with a wheel. While there's no mini tank for oil, a small bottle is supplied and you'll find a clear reminder on the guard to reapply it to the chain by hand after approximately 40 cuts. Key specifications 5. Best for Thick Branches: DeWalt XR Brushless DCMPS520 This tool would be suitable for a professional gardener. It's heavier than most but can make an impressive 70 cuts per charge and cut through 15cm of wood. It also has a tip guard on the end of the chain to prevent you from making cuts on branches within a tree that you don't want to remove. This guard reduces the risk of kick back and keeps the end of the chain from getting clogged with soil when cutting on the ground. Having this feature takes a little getting used to but it's a sensible addition for such a high-powered tool. Of all the powered pruners on this list, this one could genuinely double up as a small chainsaw. It's designed to be held with both hands; place your right hand on the rear handle and left on the front one. Both handles give you a strong grip and there's a guard to protect your hand from above. The tool has an automatic oiler and there is a window into the tank to check the level, and a tensioning tool is supplied and clips into the chain guard for safe keeping. Key specifications Cutting capacity: Up to 15cm Cutting chain: 20cm bar Weight (with battery): 2.72kg Power source: 18 Volt battery 6. Best for Balance: Husqvarna Aspire P5-P4A If you've already invested in some of Husqvarna's other gardening tools then this mini chainsaw will be a seamless addition. It has a built in storage hook designed to work with Husqvarna's storage system, and you can also attach it to one of the brand's extension poles. It's a well-balanced machine that should be used with both hands and can tackle branches up to 7.5cm wide. I found it easy to manoeuvre, with a full charge allowing for approximately 30 minutes of pruning. There is a simple power button and an LED charge level indicator which warns you when the charge is running low. There's also a catch and pull trigger to start, which is excellent for added safety, and it rather sensibly shuts off automatically after 180 seconds of not being used. Its highest sound level reaches 91dB, about that of a lawnmower. The chain can be replaced tool free, and tensioning was easy to do. There's no oil tank though, so it's important to make a habit of adding oil to the chain. In all, it's a sensible choice if you have a mature garden to care for. Key specifications 7. Best for Holding Branches: Black + Decker Alligator This is a very different looking mini chainsaw, but with good reason. It's designed for heavy duty pruning, with jaws which hold the branch while you cut. Its dual handles make it comparable to using a giant pair of scissors, something I found takes time to get used to as it is an alien movement when compared with other powered pruners. For safety, there is a start trigger on each handle, and both need to be activated to start the chain. This felt slightly unbalanced to use, but again, I got accustomed to it over time. Its metal guards keep the chain covered when not in use and offer added protection when you are using it. However, the pruner must be lubricated after every 10 minutes. As for replacing or tensioning the chain, two nuts need to be removed with the provided tool. To keep the jaw and guard away while working the handles need to be kept open somehow which can be tricky. The jaw collects up sawdust so it needed cleaning with a paintbrush every so often (with the battery safely removed). Expect to make about 150 cuts when tackling small branches before it needs recharging, less when tackling bigger branches. It has a cutting capacity of 10 cm and will be able to handle kindling, and has a higher sound power of 95 dB. Key specifications 8. Best Budget Pruning Chainsaw: Hawksmoor Cordless Mini Pruning Chainsaw This isn't one for regular gardeners, but it's a solid option if you're on a budget. It's designed for one handed operation, but it feels quite large in relation to the size of the blade. The sound is also slightly rattly, topping out at a rather loud 97 dB. The battery, which simply slots on to the end of the handle, charges within 60 minutes. While there was no mention in the instructions of how long it would last or how thick a branch the tool could cut, I found it easily pruned branches of 3cm in diameter. A separate guard covers both the chain guard and chain, which was occasionally tricky to slide off. It also needs to be lubricated before use. Frustratingly, the pruner is supplied with a small, empty oil bottle which would be hard to fill. Accessing the chain is easy, however, making it straightforward to clean or replace, you just unscrew the large green knob. There's also a chain tensioning hex key cleverly slotted in place at the base of the handle for safe keeping. Key specifications Cutting capacity: Unspecified Cutting chain: 11cm Weight with battery: Approximately 2kg Power source: 18 Volt battery Mini chainsaws FAQs Are battery powered pruners better? Battery tools in general are easier and cleaner to use. No fuel is required and it removes the risk of tripping over or cutting through electric cables. They also encourage the gardener to take a break while they recharge which is sensible from a health and safety point of view. Note that battery charging and run times vary depending on the size of branches being cut and the conditions in which the battery is being charged. Cold temperatures are also known to slow down charging time. How do you use a powered pruner? As with all powered cutting tools, safety must be your priority. Before using, ensure that the tool has been set up as instructed and you are wearing the recommended safety clothing (ear defenders, safety googles, safety boots and gloves). Resist wearing shorts to reduce the risk of injury from flying debris and wear tight fitting clothing, avoiding loose scarves. Here are some additional safety pointers to keep in mind: Keep pets and children well away from the tool both when in use and in storage. Don't use it on wet days and only use it for cutting wood. The area should be well lit. Both feet must be placed firmly on level ground at all times and cuts should not be made above shoulder height. Never reach up, stand on tiptoes or work from a ladder. Avoid cutting branches thicker than the tool is recommended for as this will damage the chain. Remember, powered pruners are not suitable for felling trees. Never cut with the tip of the chain as you will experience kick back, and never cut branches on the ground as soil in the blade can also lead to kick back or cause the chain to become blunt. Keep alert and ready for spring back of branches. Replace the chain cover when the tool is not in use and remove the battery. Always do the latter when cleaning, carrying or maintaining the pruner. To keep pruners running smoothly, clean the tool as suggested in the manufacturers instructions. How thick a branch can the pruner cut? This all depends on the make and model of the pruner. Each one has a different cutting capacity. If you exceed the recommended cutting capacity, you are likely to damage the tool. How do you sharpen chains? Don't sharpen chains unless you have experience in doing this. Replacement chains are preferable and can be easily fitted. Always remove the battery before accessing the chain and when removing a chain, wear gloves as they are sharp. Also wait for the chain to cool down before touching as they can get hot. What is the best lubricant for chains? Use an oil sold as 'chain oil' and read the manufacturer's instructions for any further recommendations as the use of non-approved oil may invalidate the warranty. Chain oil is available from most DIY stores. All chainsaw blades need oil, so it is vital that you apply the amount suggested for the pruner to work. On some saws this is done manually and on others it's automatic. It can be easy to forget to lubricate the chain, so try and get into a regular habit of doing so.
Telegraph
20-06-2025
- General
- Telegraph
Ask the head gardener: How can I get my clematis under control?
Dear Tom, I planted a Clematis 'Mayleen' by my fence about three years ago. It has grown rapidly, and this year had an abundance of beautiful pink flowers. Now the plant is growing on and on and looks a mess – and my neighbour doesn't like it growing over the fence. Also I have rose bushes planted near the clematis and the new shoots stick to the roses. I would love to have some advice on how to prune it, or what to do with it. – Eva Dear Eva, It makes a pleasant change to receive a question about a plant that is growing too well, but on this occasion, that doesn't mean that there are not a number of issues. Clematis enjoy growing in a sunny position (such as next to the fence that you provided for your 'Mayleen'), and like their roots to be in more cool and moist soil conditions. The spot that you have provided in your garden is perfect, which is why this vigorous climber is looking quite at home. Clematis montana (of which 'Mayleen' is a cultivar) sits in a collection of clematis known as Group 1. This group is characterised by its early flowering and quite often has a number of very vigorous species within it. As these clematis grow rapidly year on year, they soon outgrow most domestic situations such as fence panels. They should be pruned immediately after flowering, enabling them to put on fresh growth that will then produce flowers the year after. The way that I see it, you have a couple of options. The first is to rejuvenate the plant by cutting it down close to the base. A healthy Clematis montana often responds well to this treatment. This will trigger lots of fresh growth from the base that can then be trained to cover the fence with more growth towards the bottom of the plant. Immediately after flowering next year, shear off the stems so that they are tight against the fence, which will encourage fresh growth and keep the plant more compact. In all honesty, this clematis might be too big for that spot, but this pruning style is a way in which you might be able to keep the plant growing in that part of your garden for a number of years to come. There is potential to shear off the growth that has flowered in a less severe manner, but that will not be as conclusive as the rejuvenation technique. Looking at the other end of the extreme, an acceptance that this Clematis montana is too big for your fence will result in the opportunity to plant a brand new clematis that perhaps is more compact and suitable for that spot. Group 3 clematis flower later in the year on growth that is produced that spring and summer. Clematis viticella types can be very decorative and I find the easiest to prune because they simply get taken down to the ground each spring. Clematis tangutica, with its yellow flowers and gorgeous seed heads that persist into the winter, is another option that you could look at, being better-behaved than your monstrous montana. If you're looking to replace your clematis, then incorporate a couple of wheelbarrows of well-rotted compost or manure to reinvigorate the soil and encourage lots of strong growth from your new plant, and make sure to water it well for the first summer.
Yahoo
20-06-2025
- General
- Yahoo
3 reasons your hydrangea won't bloom and when to prune for the best flowers
If you gathered in one large room, all the plant pros from all over the world and asked them to name the number one question they are asked by customers, that normally diverse and typically quite contrarian group would find themselves in unanimous and surprising agreement. Questions related to how to prune a hydrangea, why one either does or does not flower from one year to the next, could fuel a reality TV show ... maybe even to rival "Game of Thrones." Here are three reasons why you hydrangea may not be blooming: Improperly Timed Pruning: By far the most common reason for some hydrangeas to not flower is pruning at the wrong time of year. Hydrangeas come in a variety of types. Some set their flower buds in the fall for the following spring. If you prune that type in winter, there won't be many/any left to flower in spring. This is the case for the popular bigleaf hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla,) the type that typically has glossy, bright green leaves and either pink or blue flowers in summer. The always popular oakleaf hydrangea (H. quercifolia) falls into this same category of old wood bloomers. (Note: a few of the newer varieties of H. macrophylla actually produce flowers both on last year's growth and current season's growth so will bloom in spring even if you prune them hard in winter, but all flower better if you skip the winter prune.) More: Should I use landscape fabric in the yard or garden? Here are 3 things to know Hydrangeas that flower on the current season's growth (sometimes called new wood flowering) can be cut all the way to the ground in winter and they will still bloom the following spring after the new growth is produced. The native smooth hydrangea (H. arborescens) and the panicle/tree hydrangea (H. paniculata) both fall into this category. Winter/Cold Damage: Some hydrangea species can handle a whole lot of cold without even the least of a shiver. When I lived in Bangor, Maine it took no time at all to see that both the smooth hydrangea and panicle hydrangea were (and still are) staples in the landscape. They can handle cold. Big leaf hydrangeas, on the other hand, are best considered snowbirds. They can handle some winter cold but what they don't like is the up and down temperatures of a continental climate. A few warm February days during winter can cause a bit of a false start for big leaf hydrangeas. And once those buds (that contain the flower initials formed last fall) start to swell even a bit, any temperature below freezing will result in a total or partial loss of flowers for the coming season and will leave you with a big green bush with no flowers. If the cold is borderline, sometimes you'll just get a few flowers near the ground where they were either protected from the freeze by snow cover or from a bit of warmth radiated up from the ground beneath. More: How to keep deer out of the garden: 8 things to try Too Much Shade: Many of us who start off with a sun garden know that it won't often last very long. Trees grow. Other large shrubs grow. Over time, a once floriferous hydrangea can lose its flower power as maturing plants in the vicinity start to suck up the essential sunlight. All hydrangeas are quite shade tolerant — meaning they can survive quite nicely in even a moderate amount of shade. But as the amount of incident light decreases, so does the flower production. The solution is to move your hydrangea to a sunnier spot or open up the tree canopy with some strategic tree pruning. There is also a short list of other reasons for a gradual decrease of hydrangea flowers. Of course the ever-present white tailed deer that so many of us battle in our gardens can chow down on your hydrangeas, meaning no buds make it to flowering stage. Poor mineral nutrition, moisture stress, and a host of other cultural insults can keep hydrangeas from flowering but those are minority cases. First things first. Like most plants, hydrangeas do not need to be pruned. If left unpruned, they will be just fine. After flowering, some people like to remove the old blooms (which is completely fine) while others like to leave them in place for little winter texture. But in both the old wood and new wood blooming hydrangea species, no pruning is necessary. If you just let them do their thing, they'll do their thing. Old Wood Bloomers: If big leaf hydrangeas are pruned at the wrong time of year, they won't flower the next year. But that doesn't mean you can't prune and still have flowers. If you want to prune to encourage tighter branching or maintain a slightly smaller plant, prune as soon as the current crop of blooms start to fade. The goal is to encourage lower buds to break and produce new shoot growth before the end of the growing season, with enough time for a new crop of flower buds to form. A thorough watering regime post pruning will help make sure that new growth forms. My general rule of thumb is to do this kind of pruning before the middle of July. Other than the bigleaf hydrangea, oakleaf hydrangea (H. quercifolia) and the less common climbing hydrangea (H. petiolaris) fall into the same group of old wood bloomers. More: How to properly plant a tree: here are 6 things to know New Wood Bloomers: These are far less fussy. If you wantm you can clean them up by removing the spent flower heads about any time of the year. Whole plants (young or old) can be cut to the ground in winter (which will create a plant with fewer but larger blooms), or they can be left to their own devices with no pruning. The no pruning approach will generally produce a plant with a greater quantity of smaller blooms. Worldwide there are somewhere around 80 or so species. Most are shrubs. Some approach tree status. A few are climbing vines. And if you're lucky enough to have a specimen or two of the rarer species in your garden, all you need to know to determine the best pruning time is whether it blooms on new or old wood. But then if you do have some of those plant geek species in your garden, you're probably already getting the pruning question from your friends and neighbors. Maybe you need your very own television series. Paul Cappiello is the executive director at Yew Dell Botanical Gardens, 6220 Old Lagrange Road, This article originally appeared on Louisville Courier Journal: Reasons your hydrangea won't bloom and how to fix it
