Latest news with #retinoids
New York Times
18-07-2025
- Health
- New York Times
Retinol May Thin Your Skin, but That's Why It Works
Retinoids initially thin out the very top layer of the epidermis (called the stratum corneum). NYT Wirecutter Skin is made of several layers: From the outside in, they're the epidermis, the dermis, and the hypodermis or subcutaneous fat. The outermost layer, the epidermis, is itself composed of several stacked components. Sitting on the very outside of that top layer is the stratum corneum — and when we talk about 'thinning out the skin,' this is the layer we're talking about. By the time the cells reach this layer, they've lost their nucleus and are essentially dead, said dermatologist Muneeb Shah. So having a 'thick' stratum corneum isn't always a good thing, as the buildup of dead skin cells can make the skin appear dull. Your skin sheds the dead cells on its own, but using a retinoid (or exfoliant) speeds up the shedding of that dead layer to reveal newer, brighter skin. So yes, a retinoid thins out this topmost layer initially — but that's a good thing. 'This can be beneficial because it can improve skin texture and tone, reduce clogged pores and acne, and allow other ingredients to penetrate more effectively,' said dermatologist Chelsea Hoffman. This thinning is temporary because by about four weeks of consistent retinoid use, the fibroblasts in the dermis are producing more collagen and elastin, ultimately thickening the dermis and skin overall, said dermatologist Fatima Fahs. However, that very top layer of dead skin cells 'remains thinner than it would be without retinoid use,' Fahs said, because skin cells are in a constant state of turnover. So whether the thinning is temporary depends on how you look at it, but the good news is, this thinning is working to reveal brighter, smoother skin, Fahs said. This initial thinning can contribute to 'retinization' — the irritation, skin flaking, breakouts, and redness that crop up for some people when they start to use retinoids. Folks online sometimes refer to it as the 'retinol uglies' or 'purging.' Rest assured that these are normal and temporary side effects for most people (because skin often builds up a tolerance to retinoids after six to eight weeks), and using face moisturizer may help to alleviate some of them. Part of the reaction, such as flaking, can be attributed to those dead skin cells shedding at a quicker rate.
The Guardian
16-07-2025
- Health
- The Guardian
Sali Hughes on beauty: I've got a real problem with neck creams. Here's why …
If you've ever kindly searched for a recommendation of a neck cream from me, then you'll know there are virtually none on record. This is because, despite so many being marketed in my direction and so many requests for a column about the best of them, I am consistently grumpy about neck products on principle. I certainly don't neglect my own neck in my routine, and encourage anyone engaged in their appearance to take good care of their entire skin, scalp to toe. And I can obviously understand why people seek out a specialist neck treatment when they notice changes in firmness and texture on the throat. But skin doesn't become different when it passes the jawline, it responds in the same way to TLC as the face, so I can see few good reasons for spending extra money. The Guardian's journalism is independent. We will earn a commission if you buy something through an affiliate link. Learn more. The things we know can help produce collagen lost on the face and neck as we age, naturally or prematurely, are retinoids and, to a lesser degree, antioxidants like vitamin C. So I use these on my face and neck (usually at both ends of the day). If your neck is more sensitive, you could soften the blow by first applying a thin layer of bland moisturiser (like those from Simple, CeraVe or Cetaphil) underneath these punchier actives, or using something better tolerated all over, like Naturium's well-priced Retinaldehyde Cream Serum 0.10% (£35 for 50ml). Just apply before nighttime moisturiser and take down to your chest. No fancy product under the 'anti-ageing' umbrella is worth a damn if you're not applying sunscreen in sufficient quantities. You're almost literally burning your cash. And so I'm saddened by how many people seek neck creams and yet stop applying SPF at their chin. An ultra-light, fluid sunscreen like La Roche Posay's exceptional new Anthelios UVAir SPF50+ (£25 for 40ml), sinks in instantly, so you can do up your shirt without delay or faff. If you hate most sunscreens, I think you'll love this. Sign up to Inside Saturday The only way to get a look behind the scenes of the Saturday magazine. Sign up to get the inside story from our top writers as well as all the must-read articles and columns, delivered to your inbox every weekend. after newsletter promotion If you still have an insatiable desire for a neck product, then try Beauty Pie's Über Youth Neck & Chest Super Lift Serum-Spray (£17.50 for 95ml to members; £38 otherwise). I give this props for being incredibly easy to apply (just mist on to your neck and chest and stroke for fast absorption) and pleasantly refreshing in a hot spell. Optimal levels of niacinamide (from which our entire skin benefits) may help any with brown spots, while glycerin should help temporarily plump any fine, crepey lines.
The Independent
26-06-2025
- Health
- The Independent
Best stretch mark creams and oils for soothed, hydrated skin
Whether in pregnancy, puberty or after rapid weight gain, newfound stripes on our bodies can effect all of us. And while some might feel confident caring for their scars, others might feel more insecure – and that's where the best stretch creams come in. When applied regularly to the stomach, thighs, bottom and breasts, specifically targeted oils and creams can improve the structure of the skin, leaving it soft, hydrated and nourished. Most brands recommending applying at least twice a day (we tried these products just before bed, and after our morning shower), using gentle circular movements. As Harley Street skin specialist Dr. Emma Wedgeworth explains: 'Stretch marks (known as striae distensae in dermatological terms) are line-like scars which develop due to excessive stretching of the skin. We don't know exactly why they occur, but the changes seem to be shearing of the elastic tissue alongside changes in key structural proteins which sit in the mid-layer of the skin (dermis).' 'When stretch marks first develop, there is often some mild inflammation and swelling, so they are red and slightly raised. Over time, they flatten and become pale with a finely wrinkled surface.' Wedgeworth adds that 'there are several things you can do to improve the overall appearance of the skin. Keeping the skin well hydrated with ingredients like shea butter, hyaluronic acid and ceramides can improve the overall appearance of skin and protect the skin barrier. Topical retinoids can prove effective, but shouldn't be used while pregnant or breastfeeding'. Aside from reducing stretch marks, the act of massaging in your chosen product can feel like some much-needed self-care and an opportunity to celebrate your changing shape. For those that are pregnant, it can also be a lovely way to bond with your bump, and many of these formulas would make a gorgeous gift for mum-to-be. Why you can trust IndyBest reviews Stacey Smith is a journalist with more than a decade of experience reviewing products, be it pushchairs and highchairs or wine and linen table cloths. Everything she writes about is put through rigorous testing. When it comes to stretch creams, she knows the products to turn to for soothing and smoothing skin. The best stretch marks creams and oils for 2024 are:
Times
14-05-2025
- Health
- Times
Aesthetics guru Dr Barbara Sturm reveals the ultimate anti-ageing routine
While lots of things get better with age — wine, jeans, relationships, when it comes to the world of beauty, many of us associate ageing with less lovely things such as fine lines, wrinkles and an overall loss of plumpness. Because of this, the world of luxury anti-ageing skincare, from creams, serums, treatments and peels, is positively booming. But with more products promising to reverse time than ever, it's hard to decipher between fact and fiction. To help, keep scrolling for a guide to the ultimate anti-ageing skincare routine. It's a simple fact our skin changes as we get older. Cellular function begins to decline and we produce less collagen and elastin. A loss of volume can have an effect on the skin's luminosity and brightness and a decrease in hyaluronic acid in the skin can result in dryness and fine lines. The leading German dermatologist Dr Barbara Sturm says: 'At the same time, the telomeres (the protective end caps of our DNA) naturally shorten, which further impacts the skin's ability to regenerate and repair.' Unsurprisingly the shifts in hormones as we age also has an effect and increases the skin's sensitivity, 'women can lose about 30% of their skin collagen within the first five years after menopause,' Sturm says. Essentially vitamin A in different forms, retinoids are one of the most frequently used anti-ageing compounds to help reduce fine lines and wrinkles by increasing the production of collagen in the skin. The most common, over the counter derivative is retinol (a more gentle form compared to prescription choices such as tretinoin and adapalene), that can be gradually incorporated into a skincare routine to potentially fade age spots, roughness and hyperpigmentation. Also known as Vitamin B3, using Niacinamides can help minimise the appearance of pores, potentially improve the skin's texture and tone, while reducing inflammation. Chemical exfoliants such as AHA (Alpha Hydroxy acids) and BHAs (Beta Hydroxy acids) work by dissolving the bonds that hold dead skin cells together to promote cell turnover and can give the appearance of a more youthful, brighter complexion. Used over time, hyaluronic acid can help maintain the skin's elasticity and plumpness while being soothing and nourishing on even the most sensitive of skin. Skincare with added Vitamin C gets to work neutralising free radicals in the body which are known to cause oxidative stress — for your skin that means a defence against dull and tired-looking skin. It's best used in the morning as it can also provide added protection against daily aggressors such as pollution and UV rays while potentially evening skin tone and having a brightening effect. While ceramides are naturally found in the skin, as we age the quality of these fats decreases, therefore, they need to be replenished by ceramide-rich anti-ageing skincare products. Known as the mortar that holds skin cells together, ceramides form a protective layer and help to prevent moisture loss which in turn strengthens the skin barrier and can give the effects of more supple skin. Despite the swanky science names, acids and enzymes, an effective anti-ageing regime doesn't need to be complicated. Like any skincare routine, it should start with a cleanser and an exfoliator should be added twice weekly to help invigorate the skin and remove dead skin cells. Arguably a potent anti-ageing serum is the most important step. The best? 'One packed ingredients like purslane, skullcap and glutathione offers an even deeper level of nourishment and is enriched with skin-identical ceramides and peptides to strengthen the skin barrier,' Sturm says. • This article contains affiliate links that earn us revenue 'My hyaluronic serum is fundamental. It is the 'white t-shirt' of any skincare routine,' Sturm says. Inside there's a combination of low, medium and high weight hyaluronic acid molecules to provide instant hydration at the surface, as well as deeper nourishment to support the skin barrier and target fine lines and wrinkles caused by dehydration. £85 for 10ml, Dr Barbara Sturm While it's important to incorporate a facial exfoliant into your anti-ageing skincare routine a couple of times a week, you want to make sure it's gentle and never stripping. 111SKIN's clever cleanser transforms from a fine powder to a light foam and features the brand's signature NAC Y²™ complex to help sweep away dead skin cells and leave a more radiant, even complexion. £60 for 40g, 111SKIN Focussing on recharging and reactivating the skin, this two step mask from legendary longevity science label La Prairie comprises a high potency concentrate of hyaluronic acid and collagen (handily encapsulated in a monodose vial to preserve it perfectly) to plump and revive the skin, as well as a nourishing cream mask full of powerful peptides. £1,275, La Prairie at Harrods It's refreshing to see an anti-ageing cream specially created for men hit the crowded, female-focussed skincare sphere. This lightweight moisturiser from Italian brand Seed to Skin can be used to calm and comfort irritated skin post-shave. It is enriched with multi-vitamins and anti-inflammatory, botanical ingredients such as hyaluronic acid and squalane to nourish the skin's barrier. £183 for 50ml, Seed to Skin at Space NK A frequent mature skin woe is the loss of firmness and elasticity in the skin that can leave you feeling your face is lacking the natural contours it once possessed. Thankfully Sisley-Paris' anti-ageing line, which first launched in 1999, contains sweet Majoram extract, a new active ingredient and antioxidant which acts like an alarm clock for the skin in boosting cells into action by reducing inflammation. £435 for 30ml, Sisley-Paris at Space NK La Mer's silky serum offers a boost of hydration as the brand's signature Miracle Broth, the luxury skincare brand's unique elixir of sea kelp, vitamins and minerals, gets to work soothing the skin and an additional restructuring ferment plumps. The brand recommends applying with flat fingers in upward sweeping motions to enhance definition. £650 for 75ml, La Mer at Space NK A gentle retinol, perfect for beginners, Eve Lom's hydrating serum has a combination of wrinkle-fighting Liposome Encapsulates Retinol and a microbiome re-balancing prebiotic to protect the skin from the inside. They've managed to also incorporate AHAs to help exfoliate dead skin cells in this sleek, gold bottle, too. £145 for 30ml, Eve Lom It's rare you find a single-ingredient serum, but this fast-absorbing gel from Westman Atelier contains only one hundred per cent THD Ascorbate —- a vitamin C derivative crafted in Japan that is oil-soluble rather than water-soluble, meaning it is more stable and can penetrate deeper into the skin. It's loved for its antioxidant properties that work to help diminish hyperpigmentation and provide a hit of hydration. £300 for 20ml, Westman Atelier at Harrods Nothing says luxury like the addition of caviar into your skincare, but if you're worried about a fishy face, fret not, you're in safe hands with La Prairie's Skin Caviar range. The Swiss skincare line uses caviar infinite and caviar micro-nutrients in the form of tiny yellow caviar beads and a light serum that mixes together as you pump to give the effects of brighter, smoother under eyes. £450 for 20ml, La Prairie at Space NK Founded in 1997, SkinCeuticals is the skincare brand that forgoes fussy and fancy labels for straight-talking serums that simply do the job. Its latest eye serum has been designed to tackle dark circles specifically while helping smooth the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles caused by collagen decline. The silky formula glides on and has an instantly tightening effect thanks to the addition of caffeine, glycyrrhetinic acid which helps counter dull tone and Matrixyl 3000 which supports the skin's natural firmness and elasticity. £105 for 15ml, SkinCeuticals at Look Fantastic Sue Nabi, former president of Lancome and L'Oreal Paris, founded luxury skincare line Orveda with Nicolas Vu to create vegan, bio-fermented products that work with your skin, not against it. In terms of anti-ageing, all its highly-concentrated treatments can be used, as they target the effects of past damage, including overprocessing that can occur from years of using too many different skincare products. Inside Orveda's most potent serum, the Omnipotent Concentrate, there's 16 actives, concentrated at 24%, including soothing bio-tech schisandra sphenantera, biomimetic tripeptide to help firm skin texture and bio-activated gallic acid derivative to aid a natural glow. £405 for 30ml, Orveda at Harrods
