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The Guardian
2 days ago
- General
- The Guardian
Puff tart and brown sugar loaf – Alexina Anatole's courgette recipes
Summer courgettes seem to multiply faster than we can cook them, and demand a little more of our love from June through to August. But despite their unruliness as a crop, they are mild-mannered in flavour, a culinary chameleon that partners with a wide range of tastes. From the umami punch of parmesan to the fragrant cut-through of citrus, and from the warmth of cinnamon to the char of the barbecue, these green gourds can be used in myriad ways, shining in sweet and savoury contexts alike. There is nothing easier or more gratifying in summer than a tart topped with the season's bounty. Serve with a rocket salad for a light lunch, or alongside your protein of choice. The courgette 'butter' is endlessly adaptable: turn it into a pasta sauce with a spoonful or two of creme fraiche, or use it to fill quesadillas. Prep 30 minCook 25 minServes 6-8 For the courgette 'butter'3 tbsp olive oil 3 medium-large courgettes (about 670g) 3 small garlic cloves, peeled and thinly sliced½ tsp fine sea salt Finely grated zest and juice of ½ lime For the tart320g sheet ready-rolled puff pastry3-4 tbsp ricotta, or creme fraiche or cream cheese 10g parmesan, finely gratedEgg wash, or milk, to glaze Put the olive oil in a large saucepan on a medium heat. Meanwhile, top and tail the courgettes, then slice into very fine 1mm-2mm-thick rounds (if you have one, use a mandoline). Tip the sliced courgettes, garlic and salt into the pan, stir to coat everything in the hot oil, then turn up the heat to medium-high and cook, stirring occasionally, for about five minutes, until the courgettes start to break down. Turn down the heat to medium-low and cook for another 15 minutes, until the courgettes are soft and jammy and a bit like butter; if you like, leave the courgettes to cool and store in the fridge for up to three days. Heat the oven to 220C (200C fan)/425F/gas 7. Unravel the pastry sheet and its paper on to a large baking tray, trimming off any excess paper, if need be, then use a small knife to score a light 1cm border all around the edge of the pastry. Spoon dollops of the ricotta into the centre of the pastry, then spread it all over the base up to the border. Squeeze the lime juice on to the cooked courgettes, then spread them evenly over the the ricotta and top with an even scattering of the parmesan and the grated lime zest. Brush the border with egg wash (or milk), then bake for 25-30 minutes, until the edges are puffed up and deeply golden. Serve immediately. This is a brilliant way to use up a glut of courgettes, turning them into a soft, cinnamon-spiced cake with deep caramel notes from the muscovado sugar and a hit of aniseed fragrance from the fennel seeds. Perfect for an afternoon tea break. Prep 20 minCook 50 minServes 8 For the cake210g plain flour 1 tsp ground cinnamon ¾ tsp baking powder ½ tsp bicarbonate of soda ½ tsp fine sea salt 250g grated courgettes (2 small-medium courgettes)100g dark muscovado sugar 2 medium eggs 200g granulated sugar 50g creme fraiche, plus extra to serve1 tsp vanilla bean paste Finely grated zest of 1 lemonJuice of ½ lemon 120ml olive oil 1 tbsp demerara sugar 1 tsp fennel seeds, roughly crushed Heat the oven to 180C (160C fan)/350F/gas 4 and line a 2lb loaf tin with greaseproof paper. In a medium-large bowl, thoroughly whisk the flour, cinnamon, baking powder, bicarb and salt, then add the grated courgette and toss until evenly coated. In a large jug, whisk themuscovado sugar and eggsfor about a minute, until there are no significant lumps and the mix is a little frothy. Whisk in the granulated sugar, creme fraiche, vanilla, lemon zest and juice, then stream in the olive oil, whisking all the time. Pour the wet mix into the courgette bowl, whisk just until combined, then scrape into the lined loaf tin. Mix the demerara sugar and crushed fennel seeds, then sprinkle evenly all over the top. Bake for 45 minutes, until golden on top and a skewer inserted into the middle comes out clean. Remove and leave the loaf to cool in its tin for five to 10 minutes, then carefully unmould and transfer to a rack to cool completely. The cake is delicious as is, but slices can also be served with a spoonful of creme fraiche and a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil (or maple syrup, if you have more of a sweet tooth). Alexina Anatole is the author of the Small Wins Substack and Sweet: The Secret to the Best Desserts, published by Square Peg at £27. To order a copy for £24.30, go to


Telegraph
07-07-2025
- General
- Telegraph
Griddled seasonal vegetables with goat's curd
There are loads of brilliant veggies around at this time of year – not just peas and beans, but courgettes, aubergines, all kinds of peppers, chunky spring onions, fennel and more. This dish works beautifully as a starter, a veggie main or something to share. If you can't get hold of goat's curd, ricotta or labneh are great swaps. And if you've got a ribbed griddle, use it. A cast-iron pan or barbecue will do the job nicely too. Overview Prep time 15 mins Cook time 20 mins Serves 4 Ingredients vegetable oil, for frying 2 red romero (also called romano) peppers, halved lengthways 1 aubergine, cut into 1cm slices 1 large courgette, cut into 1cm slices (if you're using a round variety of courgettes, cut into wedges) 4 large spring onions (bulbous ones if you can get them), trimmed and halved crossways 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil a few sprigs of oregano or marjoram, leaves picked 4 tbsp goat's curd or ricotta


The Guardian
07-07-2025
- General
- The Guardian
Sophie Wyburd's recipes for summer pesto pasta
When hot summer days roll around, midweek dinners that require minimal cooking really come into their own. I love making pesto on such evenings, and not just the classic basil-and-pine-nut situation. Jazzing things up with braised greens or a red pesto made from lots of jarred goods are just two directions in which I like to take things for a big hit of flavour. Both of today's pestos freeze well, too. An almost no-cook sauce of smoked harissa whizzed up with jarred peppers, almonds and parmesan, tossed through rigatoni and topped with a dollop of lemony ricotta. Prep 5 min Cook 20 min Serves 4 Salt and black pepper 400g rigatoni 90g flaked almonds 350g jarred roasted peppers 80g sun-dried tomatoes 1 garlic clove, peeled1 heaped tbsp smoked harissa paste15g basil 90g pecorino romano Olive oil 250g ricotta Juice and finely grated zest of ½ lemon Bring a large pan of salted water to a boil, then add the pasta and cook according to packet instructions, until al dente. Meanwhile, toast the almonds in a dry frying pan on a medium heat for three minutes, or until lightly golden, then tip into a bowl and leave to cool to room temperature. Tip 70g of the almonds into the bowl of a food processor, add the peppers, sun-dried tomatoes, garlic, harissa and basil, then grate in 70g of the pecorino and whizz to a paste. With the motor still running, gradually drizzle in 100ml olive oil, then season to taste. Put the ricotta in a bowl, then grate in the remaining 20g pecorino and the lemon zest and juice. Whisk to combine, then season to taste with salt. When the pasta is cooked, drain it, reserving a mugful of the pasta cooking water, then tip the hot pasta back into the pan. Add the pesto and a splash of the reserved pasta water, then mix and toss until well combined. Spoon the pasta into bowls, top with a dollop of the lemon ricotta and a sprinkle of the remaining toasted almonds, finish with a drizzle of olive oil and serve. Prep 5 min Cook 45 min Serves 4 Olive oil 1 onion, peeled and finely sliced 2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped 200g runner beansSalt and pepper 400g casarecce70g pine nuts 15g mint 80g basil 70g parmesan Juice of ½ lemon Put a medium-sized saute pan on a medium heat, then add three tablespoons of olive oil. Tip in the sliced onion and saute for 20 minutes, stirring often, untilit has softened completely and taken on a bit of colour. Add the garlic and saute for a minute more. Trim the woody ends off the runner beans, then cut them diagonally into 2cm lengths. Stir these into the onions, add 100ml water and a pinch of salt, then pop on the lid and leave to cook for eight minutes. Bring a large pan of salted water to a boil, add the pasta and cook according to packet instructions, until al dente. Meanwhile, toast the pine nuts in a dry frying pan on a medium heat for three minutes, until lightly golden, then tip out and leave to cool. Pick the leaves off the mint, then put them in the bowl of a food processor with the basil (stalks and all) and toasted pine nuts. Grate in the parmesan, then pulse to a coarse paste. With the motor still running, drizzle in 100ml olive oil, then stir in the lemon juice and season to taste. When the pasta is cooked, drain it, reserving a mugful of the cooking water, then tip the pasta into the bean pan. Add the pesto and a splash of the reserved pasta cooking water, then mix and toss until well combined. Spoon the pasta into bowls, top with a little more parmesan and olive oil, and serve at once. Sophie Wyburd is the author of Tucking In: A Very Comforting Cookbook, published by Ebury Press at £22. To order a copy for £19.80, visit


Telegraph
03-07-2025
- General
- Telegraph
Handmade ricotta ravioli
Rolling and shaping fresh ravioli takes some time but it's an enjoyable activity and the end results are well worth the effort. Pistachio pesto is particularly delicious but you can use any sauce you wish or simply toss the ravioli with flavoured butter or some good olive oil and a sprinkle of Parmesan. Plus resting time Ingredients 300g 00 pasta flour, plus extra for dusting 3 eggs, preferably golden yolks 1 x 250g tub ricotta 40g Parmesan, finely grated 4 tbsp finely chopped chives or spring onion Zest and juice of 1 lemon For the pesto 100g pistachio kernels Leaves from a 50g bunch basil 50g Parmesan, grated 1 garlic clove, finely chopped 100ml olive oil Method Step Place 300g 00 pasta flour in a large bowl then make a well in the centre. Crack in 3 eggs and, using a fork, gradually incorporate the eggs into the flour to make a firm dough (alternatively, use a food processor). Tip out onto the work surface and knead for 10-15 minutes until smooth and silky-textured. Cover and leave to rest for 30 minutes. Step Meanwhile, make the filling: drain any liquid from the 250g tub of ricotta and place the cheese in a bowl. Add 40g finely grated Parmesan, 4 tbsp finely chopped chives or spring onion, zest of 1 lemon (keep the juice for serving) and plenty of seasoning, and mix well together. Step Next, make the pesto. Lightly toast 100g pistachio kernels in a frying pan until golden then tip onto a plate and leave to cool. Using either a pestle and mortar or a small food processor, grind together 50g basil leaves, 50g grated Parmesan and 1 finely chopped garlic clove, then gradually work in the nuts and 100ml olive oil to make a creamy paste. Season to taste. Step Cut the pasta dough into four pieces so it's easier to work with. Pat the dough out to a thickness of around 1cm then, starting with the widest setting, run one piece of dough through the pasta machine (keep the rest covered to prevent drying out). Repeatedly pass the dough through the machine, working down to the thinnest setting. Dust the machine and the work surface with semolina or flour as you go to prevent sticking or tearing. Step Cut one sheet of pasta in half so you have two equal lengths. Lay out on a well-floured work surface, then spoon heaped teaspoons of the filling, spaced 5cm apart, over one of the pasta sheets. Brush the pasta around the filling with water. Gently lift the second pasta sheet over the fillings, and use the side of your hand or fingertips to press the pasta together around the fillings to seal while aiming to ensure there's no trapped air. Step Stamp out the ravioli using a 5cm cutter (a cookie cutter is fine) or cut into squares with a sharp knife. Lay out in a single layer, on trays or cotton tea towels dusted with semolina or flour, repeating and re-rolling the trimmings to make 20-24 ravioli.


Telegraph
18-06-2025
- General
- Telegraph
Ricotta, pea and pesto tart
One of the recipes from my first book, The Tinned Tomatoes Cookbook, that drew people in was the tomato, cheddar and pesto tart – it's incredibly simple to make and such a crowd-pleaser. This is a similar dish, though a completely different flavour and a much fresher vibe thanks to the peas and lemon. Overview Prep time 15 mins Cook time 35 mins Serves 4 to 6 Ingredients 1 x 320g packet ready-rolled puff pastry 150-200g frozen peas 250g ricotta 1 egg Zest and juice of ½ lemon 4 tbsp Genovese basil pesto Method Step Preheat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas mark 6. Step Unroll 1 x 320g packet ready-rolled puff pastry and lay it on a non-stick baking tray. Score along each side of the pastry, around 3cm in from the edges, to create a border – take care not to cut all the way through the pastry. Prick inside the border all over with a fork. Step Bake in the hot oven for 10-15 minutes or until light golden brown and puffed up. Step While the pastry cooks, tip 150g peas into a heatproof bowl – if you'd like to scatter some whole peas over the top for decoration, use 200g. Pour freshly boiled water over the peas and leave for 2 minutes to defrost, and then drain. Step Put 150g of the peas, 175g of the ricotta, 1 egg, and the zest and juice of ½ lemon into a blender with a good pinch of salt and freshly ground black pepper. Step Pulse until combined and the peas have broken down a little – you can go as chunky as you like here. Step Remove the pastry from the oven and, using a spoon or fork, push down the puffed pastry inside the border to create a pastry case. Step Spread the pea and ricotta mixture over the centre of the pastry case – it's easier to start from the outside and work your way in. Return the tart to the hot oven for 8 minutes.