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Travel Weekly

Five-star treatment at family-friendly Martinhal Lisbon Oriente

Let's say you're working with clients who want to experience Lisbon with minimal crowds; desire a relatively traffic-free ride to and from the airport; aren't up for climbing the city's famously steep, hilly streets; and, oh yes, they want to bring the kids. Mission impossible? The Martinhal Lisbon Oriente, a five-star, luxury property in the city's Park of Nations neighborhood, would like to propose a solution. The Plastic Dragonfly sculpture by Portuguese street artist Bordalo II greets guests at the hotel's entrance. Photo Credit: Felicity Long Something new The 82-room hotel, which opened in 2023, is a riverside resort overlooking the Tagus in a neighborhood that swaps tiny, crowded streets and historical architecture with a modern aesthetic, dramatic buildings by some of Portugal's most famous architects, acres of wide, flat streets and a river promenade perfect for runners, cyclists and kids in strollers. On a recent visit, exploring the riverfront promenade was one of the first things my young-adult daughter and I did on arrival, passing vibrant street art, bustling restaurants and bars and taking note of the avant-garde architecture and outdoor sculptures that define this area. That art-forward sensibility carries through to the property itself, starting outside the entrance with the massive Plastic Dragonfly sculpture created by Portuguese street artist Bordalo II as part of his Big Trash Animals series. His art also appears in the hotel's interior, along with works by abstract painter Graca Paz and illustrator Kruella D'Enfer. We were also struck by the property's indoor/outdoor aesthetic, with a lobby that opens onto a terraced garden; a heated, outdoor swimming pool with lounge chairs; and a restaurant that offered both indoor and sunroom seating. It was during our first breakfast in the sunroom that we noticed something just outside the window: A toddler was bouncing on an in-ground trampoline while his dad hovered nearby. We looked around. There were children at nearly every breakfast table, later at the pool and happily playing throughout the neighborhood. If you're picturing a noisy scene overrun by small-fry, however, that was not our experience. While the Martinhal brand puts a lot of energy into attracting families, the hotel also keeps children entertained and out from underfoot with its Raposinhos kids' club, offering activities for those ages 6 months to 8 years old, on-site babysitting and dedicated baby concierge service. The hotel keeps young guests happily occupied with its kids' club. Photo Credit: Courtesy of Martinhal Lisbon Oriente Of course, all this focus on young guests didn't mean my daughter and I didn't find plenty to keep us entertained. Since we're both spa fanatics, we booked first-rate treatments at The Spa, which incorporates products by Voya, an organic, sustainable seaweed-based skin-care brand and offers three treatment rooms, a relaxation lounge and an outdoor terrace overlooking the Tagus. And true to the brand's commitment to families, The Spa offers age-appropriate wellness activities for kids ages 7 to 14. As to the apartment-style accommodations, ours featured two bedrooms, two bathrooms, a terrace, an open-plan living room and fully equipped kitchen with a breakfast bar, washer/dryer and Smeg appliances. In addition to on-site residences, the accommodation categories range from studios to one-, two- and three-bedroom apartments, plus there's a new two-floor, four-bedroom Corner Penthouse Suite with river views. Other amenities include an indoor pool, a gym and a coworking space for guests on bleisure stays. Of course, a big draw of the property is the Park of Nations neighborhood, and the hotel offered a tour that started with a look at the hotel exterior, designed by architect Eduardo Capinha Lopes. We also visited the famous Oriente Station, a rail station by Santiago Calatrava of glass, steel and concrete that sets the tone for the entire area. Nearby is Oceanario, one of Lisbon's top attractions, which is almost as well known for its arresting architecture by Peter Chermayeff as it is for its dizzying displays of marine animals, including sharks, sea otters, rays and corals. Also noteworthy is the Pavilion of Knowledge science museum, designed by architect Carrilho da Graca and featuring kid-friendly, hands-on activities. The Oceanario aquarium near the hotel is one of Lisbon's top tourist attractions. Photo Credit: Felicity Long Old Town access What if your clients also want to experience Old Town Lisbon? Enter the brand's sister property, the 37-apartment Martinhal Chiado in a historical neighborhood that also caters to families with a baby concierge service and a kids' club set in an arched cavern-like space, with exposed brick ceilings and toys for children as young as 6 months old. The hotel also features Bar 1855 with all-day dining, where my daughter and I sampled a glass of the local vinho tinto from the Douro wine region after touring the property and getting a firsthand look at the surprisingly large apartments for an inner-city property. The hotel is close to some of Lisbon's most famous sites, including the neo-Gothic Elevador de Santa Justa, St. George's Castle, the National Tile Museum and Lisbon Cathedral. Lisbon's Park of Nations neighborhood, where the Martinhal Lisbon Oriente is located, is filled with playful street art. Photo Credit: Felicity Long Getting around We spent a good portion of our days in Old Town, which was an easy 20-minute Uber ride from the Oriente. A word of warning to clients, however: They shouldn't ask the driver to take them all the way to St. George's Castle -- the much-lamented Old Town traffic makes that part of the trip agonizingly slow; better to pick a less-congested spot and walk up the Rua de Santa Cruz do Castelo. Once there, they should be prepared to wait in line, a fate they can avoid by buying tickets ahead of time online. Guests can also transfer between the two hotels via tuk-tuk but should be prepared to hang on, as it's a bumpy ride. We flew direct to Lisbon from Newark via TAP Air, and as of May, the airline also flies direct, nonstop from Los Angeles. Other gateways include San Francisco, Boston, Miami, Washington and Chicago.