29-06-2025
My Three-Ingredient Salmon Dinner
Good morning. I'm going to let you in on a secret. I peddle recipes for a living, but I don't always use them. You shouldn't, either. Cook from recipes just as musicians play from scores, but not every time. You shouldn't be bound by recipes. You can, and ought to, improvise. The act of doing so rewards your kitchen confidence. It compounds it.
Start today, simply. Go to the fish counter and find a big, beautiful fillet of salmon. (If there's wild king salmon in from Alaska, splurge on that.) Then use it to make roasted salmon with brown sugar and mustard (above).
It's easy work. Heat your oven to 400. Make a mixture of brown sugar and the mustard you like, in whatever ratio pleases you — I use just enough brown sugar to bring a slight sweetness to coarse-grained Dijon, myself. Then place your salmon on a foil-lined sheet pan, shower it with salt and ground black pepper, slather it with the mustard mixture and roast it until it's just cooked through. (That's probably about 10 minutes or so.) Then serve with braised greens and rice, as if it's a magic trick.
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As for the rest of the week. …
Sarah Copeland brought us this recipe for tofu makhani, a vegetarian riff on butter chicken. It's rich and velvety, really great. Sometimes I make it with heavy cream, other times with coconut milk. Which is better? Who's to say?
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