26-05-2025
Delicious things to have on toast (and crumpets, flatbreads and fritters)
There are so many amazing types of breads that make the perfect base for both classic and creative toppings. I often find inspiration at Asian restaurants, where they use paratha, roti, chapati or naan as a starting point.
The Scandinavians are also very inventive with bread, serving up open sandwiches with toppings that are highly textured and colourful, while in Italian restaurants a slice of grilled bread – or even a firm slice of polenta – will come bearing a mound of rich ragout or a piece of roasted meat.
Because we needn't stop at bread. Back in the '90s, when his restaurant Kensington Place was still going strong, Rowley Leigh served a brilliant sweetcorn pancake topped with a slice of pan-fried foie gras.
At the same time over at Le Caprice, I was dishing up a flattened onion pakora-style fritter with foie gras too. These days we wouldn't dream of cooking with fattened goose liver, but that same base would still work beautifully with friendlier options like chicken or duck livers instead.
I love having a bit of fun with crumpets, and once put a dish on my breakfast menu called Posh Crumpet, piled high with seasonal wild mushrooms and a fried duck egg. There are no rules when it comes to choosing a topping for your base; as with everything, flavour is key.
Sometimes, the simplest approach can be the most delicious. I remember, as a child, my grandad waxing lyrical about toast and dripping, and when I finally came to try it I completely understood what he was on about. One of my favourite Catalan dishes is pa amb tomàquet which, done properly, is a stellar dish of charred bread rubbed with garlic and then tomato until it disintegrates, drizzled with lots of olive oil.
These simple and uncomplicated pleasures never go out of fashion and will always have a place at my table.
