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Telegraph
18-07-2025
- General
- Telegraph
Why an upper-class diet is better for your health
Simple fresh food cooked from scratch is as posh as it gets. You won't find Quavers or any ultra-processed rubbish in an upper crust pantry – and forget takeaways, or any kind of snack. The aristo diet would get full marks from the likes of gut health rock star Tim Spector or the van Tulleken anti-UPF evangelists. Just look at the Countess of Carnarvon, chatelaine of Highclere Castle in Hampshire, who did not think twice about including a recipe for shepherd's pie in a forthcoming book. The greatest misconception about food served in the great houses of Britain, she says, 'is that it's fussy and complicated when it is in fact based on straightforward home cooking'. While the vulgar rich and the credit-card wannabes that mimic them might eat caviar and post it on Instagram, at Highclere the 8th Earl's greatest comfort is roast chicken, and Monday night suppers are 'risotto made with whatever's in the fridge'. While it's some time since anyone in my family had a cook, my nouveau pauvre family were very strict about retaining some of the old food mores. No tomatoes in the fridge, don't hold your knife like a pen, never use a silver spoon for eggs, margarine is evil, no snacking, no gluttony, no excess weight, never use a knife to break a bread roll. The rules around food and its consumption were considerable, and I never forgot them. I still feel crippling shame if I eat in the street. The start of the asparagus season was greeted like the birth of a child – and the end like a death in the family. In all honesty, I'm not sure my Granny ever really found any joy in cooking her own food and lived on cheese and biscuits. When I spoke to other middle-class girls with posh grannies, we discovered we had much in common. One former private chef to a member of the Royal family described knowing when the late Queen was joining his client for lunch as he would receive instructions to make a single serving of 'goujons of plaice, which are basically posh fish fingers, because no matter what everyone else was having she really did prefer plain food'. And aside from a few crusty old dukes, you don't get much posher than the Queen, do you? So what are the signs of a truly posh diet and how can it benefit your health? You never snack A weekend guest at Lisnavagh, the seat of Lord Rathdonnell, describes their host's visceral disgust at snacking: 'He considered it a punishable offence, completely gross and abject gluttony.' Admittedly, snacking was not common to any class until more recent generations were brainwashed by food companies. As a child, whining that one was hungry was either ignored or met with a brisk: 'You can have a piece of fruit.' And while we all chew away all day like cattle at the cud today, it remains strictly not done in the grandest echelons of society for its simple lack of restraint and self-control. And there is nothing to eat anyway. One regular visitor to the nice country houses says upper-class fridges are singularly uninspiring. Fresh ingredients are kept in the larder to be prepared from scratch and 'snacky bits' are what Nancy Mitford would call 'non-U' (not upper class). 'It's just dried up ends of cheese, sad, worryingly bloody chicken carcasses and Tracklements mustard.' In short, if you open your fridge and a cornucopia of exotic foodstuffs sheathed in brightly coloured plastic tumble out, you're dead common. Nutritionist and functional medicine practitioner Rosemary Ferguson is a favourite of the smart set in London and the Cotswolds. She says: 'Not snacking is a good thing. The body benefits from short fasts of around five hours between meals. So snacking is a really big issue because insulin levels are elevated all the time and the body never takes a break from digestion.' You love high-protein game As a rule, to shoot things with faces, fur and feathers legally you need to either own a lot of land, have a friend who owns a lot of land or be prepared to give someone with a lot of land a lot of your money. Otherwise it's poaching. Having a taste for the gamier meats is a sign you are quite grand. Arrivistes just shoot the things and go off to Annabel's to get drunk. Ferguson says: 'Game is very healthy meat: high in protein, low in fat, rich in B vitamins, vital minerals like iron and omega-3s. It lives wild and is probably not living a stressed life on lots of weird foods and medications like farmed meat.' You avoid UPFs like Bisto gravy or (horror) a Big Mac While there are rumours the Beckhams enjoy Bisto with their very finest quality beef, the act of roasting a few ribs of beef requires only the addition of stock to the empty pan to create a fairly thin yet deliciously marmite-y liquid called gravy. A travelling companion of one of the smart Sykes sisters – Plum, Lucy and Alice – describes an unnamed sister preferring to go hungry for 24 hours while waiting for a delayed flight at Goa Airport because the only option was McDonald's and, apparently, she 'just couldn't'. Ferguson says: 'Cooking from scratch and avoiding UPFs and fast food is a very good thing, however, I'm afraid I love Bisto. I remember [a very aristocratic name] being audibly appalled when they discovered I did. The real problem comes when you don't have the choice. Diabetes and metabolic illnesses are a socioeconomic issue because in poorer areas there are food deserts where UPFs and fast food are cheaper than real food. So it's no laughing matter.' While Pol Roger claimed Winston Churchill drank 42,000 bottles of its champagne over 50 years, his menus were far less grand. 'They included a lot of leftovers and beans on toast,' according to dining historian and biographer of Churchill's cook Dr Annie Gray. 'It is the same now as it always has been,' she says of the upper-crust predilection for plain and unexciting food. Ferguson says: 'Keeping it simple means consistent habits; anything too complicated is easily derailed. And if you are eating good quality ingredients, quite often too much fuss really isn't necessary.' You eat strictly seasonal vegetables It would never cross your mind to eat asparagus, artichokes or tomatoes, or indeed, anything, out of the strictly British season for them, and certainly not pre-prepared in a crackly plastic packet. Sliced carrots should never be seen outside the nursery wing. Adults' carrots should be served in batons or peeled and left whole according to both Annabel Bower's Mancroft instructions and etiquette commentator William Hanson. And some vegetables are completely verboten. 'Kale is for cattle' according to my mother. She has never stopped saying this since I developed a fashionable appetite for the toughest of brassicas. No matter how much I gussy it up or massage it to tenderness, she will not touch it. A member of the Mancroft family, apparently, sent a swede dish back to Bower with the words: 'You can't serve that. That's cattle feed.' Ferguson says: ' Seasonal, local and freshly picked or dug is the dream. As soon as they're picked, vegetables start to lose their nutritional value and flavour. And if pulled from organic garden soil, there's added minerals and good bacteria. Carrots cooked whole lose less of their nutrients to the boiling water; not peeling them would increase fibre and preserve nutrients even more. On the matter of kale, I'm clearly very common. I love it. It is nutrient dense and while some controversial and extreme wellness figures have claimed kale is 'trying to kill you', the truth is you'd have to eat a lot before we could pretend the plant's protective toxins, known as oxalates, might be bad for you.' You aren't big on pudding but love fresh fruit from the garden Crumbles with loads of cream brought to the kitchen daily direct from one of the dairy farms on your vast estate are also acceptable. Ferguson says: 'A crumble isn't bad at all, with the fruit, and especially if you add some seeds, nuts and oats. The addition of local and unpasteurised cream (that has been tested for food-borne pathogens) will add high-dose vitamin E, high A2 protein and fat levels to keep you satiated for longer.' You never salt food before you have tasted it One friend describes gasping in horror when she realised the man she loved sprinkled salt all over his food before he'd even had a mouthful. 'I'd been told to salt food was very non-U, and I still like my food bland to this day. I was told salt could sit in a little pile on your plate to be used if necessary but that sprinkling was a giant no-no. Ferguson says: 'Unless you've had an arduous day in the garden, when you might allow yourself a little pinch of salt to restore good electrolyte balance after sweating – sorry, perspiring – we should all be avoiding salt. We all eat way too much and it is a well-known and serious risk factor for cardiovascular, kidney and bone health.' You only drink very weak tea (and never with sugar) Taken with a slice or lemon or a droplet of milk, tea should look like dishwater, not the thick orange colour of a common house brick. Ferguson says: 'This is probably more hydrating, perhaps, than stronger tea but as long as your tea isn't full of sugar, there is nothing wrong with a strong daily cup of builder's. You take it as strong as you like, I'm sure the etiquette police have better things to do.'
Metro
17-05-2025
- Health
- Metro
Dr Chris van Tulleken says ultra-processed food should be taxed like cigarettes
Imagine it – you've had a long day at work. You come home, open the fridge, sigh at your lack of food. You're exhausted. You're hungry. You've got just a mere few hours before you have to go back to sleep and do it all over again. The idea of spending an hour cooking doesn't appeal – so what do you do? You head to your nearest supermarket – grab a ready meal, some cereal or perhaps some sausages or burgers. Maybe a packet of biscuits. This is fine as a one-off, but if it's a regular habit, you could be exposing yourself to a further risk of increased risk of heart attacks, strokes. high blood pressure and other illnesses. Last month, factory-produced foods were linked to thousands of early deaths in the UK, in a study counting the cost of packaged foods like ready meals and sugary cereals. It led to headlines including a Metro front page, but this study was just the latest linking highly processed foods to poor health. Experts have now told Metro that politicians should stop worrying about the 'nanny state' and focus on taxing the unhealthy and addictive ultra-processed foods instead. Dr Chris van Tulleken, who wrote the book on this with his 2023 bestseller Ultra-Processed People, told Metro: 'We know that ultra-processed food causes – not just is associated with – obesity, chronic kidney disease, inflammatory bowel disease, certain cancers, metabolic disease, cardiovascular disease, cerebrovascular disease, and anxiety and depression. 'So it would almost have to cause increased death rates. It would be very odd if it didn't.' In 2018, a 'sugar tax' on pre-packaged drinks was introduced, and the government is now considering widening it to include milk-based drinks, such as milkshakes and pre-packaged lattes. But Dr van Tulleken told Metro: 'We're negotiating around 'can we possibly add a bit of sugar tax to a frappuccino and a milkshake, in addition to a coke?' I mean, this is angels on the head of a pin. 'There is no good reason for not implementing the salt and sugar taxes proposed in the National Food Strategy.' He was referring to a government-commissioned report into the UK's food by Henry Dimbleby. Published in 2021, politicians have so far ignored its key recommendation for a 'Sugar and Salt Reformulation Tax', using additional revenue to get fresh fruit and veg to low-income families. Metro spoke to Dr van Tulleken at the launch of a free online course by the Cookery School at Little Portland Street in London, aimed at fighting 'fake food' by giving people skills to cook from scratch. Panellists told how politicians feared looking elitist by taking action, given how often they try to look relatable by eating chips, pulling a pint, or doing a shift at McDonald's. Sue Pritchard, chief executive of The Food, Farming and Countryside Commission, told the audience that 'Big Food' companies were using the same playbook historically used by tobacco and fossil fuel companies, to 'undermine the evidence and frighten politicians into inaction'. 'UPFs are foods that have undergone significant processing and modification from their original state,' explains Dr Frankie Phillips, a registered dietitian with the British Dietetic Association. 'Some definitions suggest that UPFs usually contain ingredients that aren't found in a typical kitchen e.g. artificial colours, preservatives, artificial flavours, and emulsifiers. Processing isn't all bad It's important not to villainise processed foods completely. As Dr Frankie explains: 'Processing isn't all bad, and sometimes it can even help as some nutrients are more easily available to the body when they are processed to some degree. 'For example, canned tomatoes or tomato puree has more bioavailable antioxidants than a fresh tomato, and life is simply too busy to make everything from scratch all the time.' She said the current food system is 'damaging us', and told how many were hopeful that the Dimbleby report's publication would unlock change. But media responded with 'industry talking points' such as 'nobody wants a nanny state,' 'these are just middle class concerns' and 'people just want cheap food', she said. 'We do lots of work with citizens around the country, and that's not what real people actually say at all. People really care about the quality of food they are feeding to their kids.' The UK eats more ultraprocessed food than any other country in Europe, making up more than half the food consumed by adults, and more than two thirds of the foods eaten by children. Most supermarkets are a temple to mass-produced sauces, biscuits, meat, sweets, crisps, desserts, and microwave meals, and it generally works out cheaper to buy pre-prepared than cook from scratch – meaning the odds are stacked against those trying to eat healthily. 'Traffic light' labelling of sugar, salt and fat is voluntary, but does not indicate the level of processing. Dr van Tulleken, who is also an NHS doctor, said it was 'not our fault' that change has so far been slow. He said the marketing budget of just one major food company could be 'two to three times the entire operating budget of the World Health Organisation', which was over £5 billion this year. There have been some key laws to make it through, despite opposition: 2007: Ban on junk food advertising on children's TV comes into force 2014: Introduction of Universal Infant Free School Meals in England 2018: The Soft Drinks Industry Levy (SDIL), better known as the 'sugar tax' on packaged drinks introdued 2019: Similar advertising ban on junk food across all Transport for London sites October 2025: Junk food adverts on TV will be banned before the 9pm watershed But in his opinion, the biggest reason for lack of effective action is 'conflicts of interest'. In March, the government announced the Food Strategy Advisory Board to look at how to 'restore pride in British food'. As well as the food minister Daniel Zeichner and chief medical officer Chris Whitty, its 14 members include reps from oven chip company McCain, packaged sandwich maker Greencore, Kerry Foods, Sofina Foods, and Sainsbury's. Dr Van Tulleken said: 'As long as the policy makers include the industry that will be regulated, I think nothing will happen. It's important to speak to the food industry, understand the food industry, and have a cordial relationship – but they can't write the policy.' His sister-in-law Dr Dolly Van Tulleken co-authored Nourishing Britain, a political manual on food, along with Henry Dimbleby, and also spoke on the panel last month. More Trending She found there have been almost 700 policies floated since obesity reduction targets were published 30 years ago, yet there has been an 'epic failure' to reduce food-related ill health. Looking at how things could improve, she said George Osborne's sugar tax was developed in secret, 'without industry in the room' until it was already at a late stage. Calling for politicians to 'feel the heat', she said added that 'it's important to make the positive argument that this is about people wanting a delicious, enjoyable food system.' 'Cook for Victory', named to reference a war against 'fake food', is running online for another two weeks every evening live from 6pm. Get in touch with our news team by emailing us at webnews@ For more stories like this, check our news page. MORE: Map shows spread of tropical disease Melioidosis that has killed 31 people across Australia MORE: TGI Fridays overhauls menu in comeback attempt after closing dozens of US locations MORE: Urgent recall of soups, rice and porridge mixes over 'life-threatening' risk in US
Daily Mirror
05-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Daily Mirror
I read every day — these are 10 books I've read since 2020 that I couldn't put down
Reading is such a simple and inexpensive joy but if you're anything like me you sometimes struggle to find the time. Here are the books I've read in the last five years that have really made an impression on me Reading is such a straightforward and affordable pleasure but, if you're anything like me, finding the time can be a challenge. With an array of distractions vying for our attention, from streaming services to mobile gaming and social media, books are now up against competitors we could hardly have envisaged a couple of decades ago. But there are plenty of reasons to choose a book over a screen, whether it's to learn something new, delve into a subject in detail or simply enjoy a story for the escape it offers. Moreover, research suggests that reading can actively boost your health. Studies have demonstrated that reading activates more areas of your brain, strengthening it and enhancing your ability to process information. Reading can also significantly lower your stress levels, with blood pressure and heart rate dropping after just a few minutes of reading, reports the Express. If you can truly enjoy something while subconsciously reaping its benefits, that's the ultimate win-win. With that in mind, I'd like to share my top book recommendations from the past five years. Although not all were first published within this timeframe, most are relatively recent releases — and this curated list blends fiction and non-fiction, with both genres offering unique benefits that contribute to personal growth. If you enjoy these recommendations, please don't hesitate to share your thoughts and your own favourite books in the comments. For more book recommendations, reviews, and news, consider subscribing to our free weekly newsletter, The Bookish Drop, on Substack. 1. Ultra-Processed People by Chris van Tulleken (2023) I can confidently say that this book has been a game-changer for me, and judging by the social media communities that have formed around it, thousands of others share my sentiment. In this book, NHS doctor and BBC science presenter Chris van Tulleken delves into the shocking truth about the "food" we consume today, much of which barely deserves the label. The book raises a pressing issue: "Why do we all eat stuff that isn't food... and why can't we stop?" It provides a shocking insight into the fact that a significant portion of our diet in developed Western countries - up to 60% by some accounts - consists of ultra-processed items, distinctly different from what was on our families' tables just a generation or two ago. Dr van Tulleken delves into the chemical processes and industrial components that populate our pantry shelves, paralleling this trend with the skyrocketing rates of obesity. It's an eye-opener and a jaw-dropper rolled into one. Get your copy here. 2. The Five by Hallie Rubenhold, released in 2019 Prepare to be astonished with this exceptional read. You might think you know the story of Jack the Ripper, but unless you've read this book, you'll be unaware of the deep stories of the women he killed. 'The Five' sets the record straight, thanks to the exhaustive research conducted to reconstruct the lives of these five individuals from the 19th century. It restores to them their true identities, backstories, and characters which they have long been denied. These women were more than just names tied to a notorious murderer – they were wives, mothers, or both, who loved and were loved. It's been hailed as "urgent, eloquent, angry and beautifully put together" by critics. 3. Empire of Pain by Patrick Radden Keefe, penned in 2021 This book is the result of an almost superhuman level of research. It recounts the story of oxycontin, a legally available drug that triggered an unprecedented opioid abuse epidemic in the United States, and the Sackler family, who created it and are one of America's wealthiest and most secretive families. Through their pharmaceutical company, the Sacklers amassed billions as people became devastatingly addicted to or died from oxycontin. Keefe received "several dozen letters and emails" from lawyers representing the family during his research, demonstrating that it took extraordinary bravery in addition to research. 4. In Memoriam by Alice Winn, 2023 Alice Winn's exquisite writing infuses even more emotion into this heart-wrenching novel about the love between two young men (boys, really) during World War One. She tells the story from the perspectives of both main characters and the reports printed in their school newspaper. In fact, reading an old school newspaper and discovering real tributes from pupils to their brothers and friends who were dying in horrific numbers on battlefields across the Channel inspired Winn to write the story, which she tells in vivid, haunting language. Buy it here. 5. Brooklyn and Long Island by Colm Toibin, 2009 and 2024 The pair of novels trace the journey of Eilis Lacey, who in the 1950s, leaves her Irish hometown for Brooklyn, spurred on by those around her who believe she'll find better opportunities there than in Enniscorthy. This mirrors the real-life experiences of millions who migrated from Europe to the US in the 20th century, never to see their families again. In Brooklyn, Eilis parts ways with her beloved sister and a potential love interest, as she starts afresh in the Big Apple. Fast forward two decades, the sequel sees Eilis' life in Long Island upended by her husband's actions, prompting her return to Ireland and the faces she left behind 20 years ago. Initially planned as a brief visit, Eilis finds herself torn between staying in Ireland or returning to the US as she reconnects with her old circle. Grab your copies of Brooklyn here and Long Island here. 6. How To Win The Premier League by Ian Graham, 2024 This isn't your typical football memoir. While many players and pundits have penned autobiographies, this book offers an insider's perspective from within one of the world's leading football clubs, revealing the intricate details that go into securing victory. Between 2012 and 2023, Graham served as the director of research for Liverpool Football Club, a period during which the club clinched its first league title in three decades. His team utilised extensive data to gain insights into virtually every facet of the game, leading to the recruitment of both Jurgen Klopp and Mohammed Salah. The team also harnessed data to reveal the true effectiveness of set-pieces like corners and free-kicks, and the actual value of possession and home advantage. One particularly captivating segment illustrates the multitude of factors that must align for a player's acquisition to be successful - underscoring the importance of evidence-based selection. 7. The Power of Geography by Tim Marshall, 2021 This book offers an intriguing exploration of how geography has influenced the destiny of nations, the considerations it necessitates, and how it fuels the global rivalries that shape our world, our news headlines, and consequently, our collective fate. For instance, many of us likely seldom consider the Sahel in sub-Saharan Africa. However, its unique circumstances could potentially trigger the next refugee crisis in Europe. Likewise, it's easy to assume that Australia prioritises its relationship with the USA over China - but considering the USA is twice as far away and Australia needs to consider the implications if China decides to exert more influence in the seas to its south (and Australia's north), it's not so simple. The beauty of this book lies in its ability to present complex issues in an easily digestible manner. . 8. The Secret History by Donna Tartt, 1992 Returning to fiction, The Secret History unravels the tale of a group of academically gifted students at a prestigious New England university harbouring a dreadful secret. It's another exquisitely penned piece of fiction (even if the frequent nods to Greek mythology flew right over my head). Despite being the oldest book on this list, it has garnered a fresh wave of followers courtesy of TikTok. Get your hands on it here. 9. Putin's People by Catherine Belton, 2020 Like Empire of Pain and The Five (above), an exceptional level of research has been invested into this book, which explores the rise of Vladimir Putin from his KGB days to becoming one of the most influential figures globally. His ascent includes stints as an agent in Dresden and the deputy mayor of St Petersburg. Throughout each stage, Putin and his network acquired the skills that are now evident in their modus operandi (and in today's headlines), ranging from money laundering and disinformation to blackmail and forming alliances with other infamous organisations. It's a bold piece of work. 10. The Subtle Art of Not Giving A F*** by Mark Manson, 2016 The provocative title might lead you to believe this is a guide to nihilism, but it's quite the opposite. Manson's key argument is that individuals should concentrate on life's significant aspects and not fret over trivial matters, while acknowledging that there are certain things in life we must simply endure. Like many self-help books aiming to improve our lives, there is often one fundamental point expanded into several thousand words. However, Manson does so in such a captivating manner that you can't help but continue reading. There's a tale that sticks in my mind: the real-life saga of a guitarist booted from a band during its formative years. This axeman, Dave Mustaine, bounced back by establishing a new band that shifted 20 million records worldwide. Yet, it's said that Dave was never truly content because the group he'd been ousted from evolved into Metallica, one of the most colossal bands in history. It all boils down to how you look at things.
