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Wild salmon are on the brink of disappearing from Irish waters
Wild salmon are on the brink of disappearing from Irish waters

Irish Times

time9 hours ago

  • General
  • Irish Times

Wild salmon are on the brink of disappearing from Irish waters

It's difficult to grasp two truths when only one is in plain sight. Take a walk down the chilled section of any supermarket and you'll spot rows upon rows of Atlantic salmon for sale. Whether it's fresh, poached, smoked over peat or skinless, canned, in pots flavoured with lemon and herbs, or ready-made sushi rolls wrapped in rice, farmed salmon might not be cheap, but it's abundant, in high demand (Irish production has risen by 51 per cent in the past few years) and everywhere. The other reality, underwater and hidden from our view, couldn't be more different. In the past five decades, wild salmon numbers in Irish waters have dropped by 90 per cent – and that's from an already low level in the 1970s. They are now on the brink of disappearing. Earlier this month, scientists from Nasco, an international body set up in 1984 to protect these iconic fish, met in Cardiff. Known for their cautious, measured tone, the boffins' latest warning is anything but: wild Atlantic salmon are in crisis , and only 'urgent and transformative' action can save them. Wild salmon are born in freshwater, travel to the sea, and then return to their birthplace to spawn, making them a clear sign of how well we're managing to coexist with other life. They need cold, clean and free-flowing waters, but right now we're offering rivers and oceans that are too warm, polluted, exploited or physically altered, making life impossible for these fish. On top of that, many rivers are blocked by man-made structures like weirs, culverts and dams, preventing salmon from completing their journey. READ MORE Nasco scientists say that salmon farming is a significant threat . Along Ireland's west coast – from Donegal to Mayo to Cork – tens of thousands of salmon are raised in circular open-net cages that float just offshore. For sea lice, the crustaceans about the length of a small button that feed on salmon, these pens are like a giant seafood banquet. The lice attach themselves to the fish using their clawed limbs, then crawl across their skin, feeding on them and eventually eating through to the muscle and fat before releasing eggs into the surrounding waters. Without treatment, an infested farmed salmon won't survive long. For young wild salmon leaving their home river for the first time, the journey to sea is full of danger. A female adult salmon lays thousands of eggs, but only a few will survive to become adults. As the young salmon swim by the salmon farms along the coast out into the Atlantic, they can pick up sea lice. These parasites can cause serious harm; scientists say it only takes a few lice to kill a young wild salmon. However, some experts sharply disagree over how much blame sea lice from fish farms deserve for the decline in young wild salmon. This debate really matters because, by law, every fish farm must have an aquaculture licence to operate. The rules are clear: if the science raises any reasonable question that sea lice from a farm could cause serious damage to wild salmon, then granting a licence becomes very difficult for the authorities to justify. 'Unless a salmon conservation programme is initiated, Ireland could be looking at a situation where we will have little or no salmon left in the wild,' according to Declan Cooke of Inland Fisheries Ireland Scientists can use a simple method to determine how sea lice affect wild salmon. They take two groups of young salmon; one group is given a special chemical treatment to protect them from lice; the other is left untreated. Both groups are then released into the same river, go to sea and face the same conditions. A year later, researchers count how many fish from each group return. If more of the treated salmon come back than the untreated ones, it shows that sea lice have a serious impact. Between 2001 and 2009, scientists from the Marine Institute carried out this 'paired release' research at eight sites in Ireland. Their conclusions, published in 2013: while sea lice cause a 'significant' number of deaths among young wild salmon, the overall impact is 'minor and irregular'. This paper has been used to support the granting of fish farm licences as evidence that sea lice from farms aren't a significant threat to wild salmon survival. [ Wild salmon are an Irish icon. Now they're almost gone Opens in new window ] Not everyone agrees. Scientists from Canada, Norway and the UK raised serious concerns about the paper and, last month, researchers from Inland Fisheries Ireland published a new study looking at 18 years' worth of data from paired released experiments. They found that, on average, an 18 per cent drop in survival among young salmon that weren't treated for lice, and the more lice on the farms, the greater the losses. Their conclusion is clear: sea lice from salmon farms pose a real threat to wild salmon. Why does this matter? Because 12 rivers along Ireland's west coast flow into legally protected areas where salmon farms operate. If scientists are now saying that these farms are killing young wild salmon due to sea lice infestations, then the law leaves little room for inaction. Authorities are obliged to act to move the farms to new locations, revoke their licences or find a way to ensure that there are no lice on the farmed salmon during the critical time when the young wild salmon are heading out to sea. There is no single solution that will save Ireland's wild salmon. If emissions remain high, our waters will continue to heat up. But not everything is hopeless – there are things in our immediate control. We can remove our barriers, free our waters from pollution and, if the science shows it will help wild stocks survive, change how or where salmon farms operate. Holding on to the reality of wild salmon in our waterways is one we should cling to – for future generations if nothing else.

Six Pro Tips For Cooking This Season's Fresh Wild Salmon Catch
Six Pro Tips For Cooking This Season's Fresh Wild Salmon Catch

Forbes

time11-06-2025

  • Forbes

Six Pro Tips For Cooking This Season's Fresh Wild Salmon Catch

Salmon season has started in Alaska and the Pacific Northwest, the arrival celebrated by fish fans across the map. Here are a few ways to make the most delicious dishes with those ruby red fresh fillets. Best way to avoid salmon sticking to the grill? Slather that fillet in mayo. Seriously, it works. This heated debate has raged for years with wild salmon advocates pointing out that fish raised in pens in the ocean cause pollution and spread disease to wild fish. For many, it comes down to price point and taste. Anyone who's taken a bite of fresh wild salmon can attest to its deeply complex flavors and rich texture. There has been major advances in the practice of freezing wild salmon so it's available year-round. But there's nothing quite like just-caught king and sockeye, so… When it comes to properly cooking fresh salmon, Seattle-based chef Tom Douglas says it starts with buying a quality product. 'Look for bright scales, and if you're able, lightly run finger along the flesh. If it comes back a little orange, it's likely been around a while,' he said in a recent phone interview. 'If it's bright and slippery, it's super fresh.' He also suggests sticking to portions closest to the collar, 'skip the tail portion if you can.' Douglas advises shopping at a fish monger that offers whole fish that the crew will fillet to order, but 'that's not always easy to do.' Seattle-based chef and restaurateur Tom Douglas has made wild salmon an essential dish during his ... More decades of cooking in the Pacific Northwest. Douglas emphasized the importance of checking for stray pin bones, again taking a hands-on approach, running your finger along the flesh. 'You don't want to have anyone whining at your table about choking on bones,' he said, chuckling. Douglas describes his signature Rub With Love salmon seasoning as a blend that promotes a golden sear. 'It's got a little brown sugar, paprika and thyme,' he said. Another very Pacific Northwest approach is using Madrona Smoked Sea Salt from San Juan Island Sea Salt, which brings a mild caramel character to the mix. Fire up a non-stick skillet – such as a Scanpan – if you're going for a sear. Cooking it over medium to medium-high heat for a few minutes is a good start. 'After you flip it, turn off the heat and wait another two or three minutes,' he advised. Always use a meat thermometer to determine when it's done, cooking the fish to 120 degrees. It just takes the guess work out of it, he emphasized. He uses a ThermoPro. Sounds easy? The challenge with salmon is the wildly varying thickness of a fillet, which, again drives home that advice to check the temp with a digital thermometer. Dee's Seafood sells fresh salmon from the waters of Hood Canal in Washington state. For suggestions on cooking salmon on the grill, Craig Goldwyn, aka Meathead, is a go-to resource. He's got a new book called "The Meathead Method: A BBQ Hall of Famer's Secrets and Science on BBQ, Grilling and Outdoor Cooking", a 400-plus page tome that takes readers on a deep dive into science-based techniques and serves up an extensive assortment of recipes. Alton Brown wrote the forward and called it 'The only book on outdoor cookery you'll ever need.' When it comes to salmon, Meathead is a proponent of hot smoking. He suggests keeping the temp in the smoker fairly low, 'between 175 and 225 degrees,' Meathead said in a recent phone interview. 'It only takes about an hour to cook. You want to pull it off when the fish hits 125 degrees. It's really makes for a lovely meal." When it comes to a summer salmon feast, Douglas is all-in on the classic combo of asparagus and some kind of spuds. 'I would probably do a warm potato salad, adding a mustard vinaigrette to some steamed potatoes,' he said. Or, you could serve up a variation of the old favorite, fish and chips, partnering that perfectly prepared fillet with your favorite potato chips. Again, in keeping with that Northwest theme, it's tough to beat Tim's Cascade Chips. When it comes to a summer picnic, it's tough to top perfectly grilled wild salmon and potato chips.

‘Together with Tiggy, we've created something beautiful in Ed's memory'
‘Together with Tiggy, we've created something beautiful in Ed's memory'

Telegraph

time22-05-2025

  • General
  • Telegraph

‘Together with Tiggy, we've created something beautiful in Ed's memory'

Pillars of honeysuckle and banks of river iris now frame the Bull Ring Gates at the Chelsea Flower Show, where shoals of model plaster salmon appear to leap from a botanical stream. The installation, an ode to the wild Atlantic salmon – now classified as endangered in Great Britain – is the result of a collaboration between three women: Tiggy Legge-Bourke, the fly-fishing expert and former nanny to Princes William and Harry; garden designer Nadine Charlton; and botanical artist Tattie Isles. Its story begins last summer, when Legge-Bourke delivered a powerful talk on the plight of salmon at a fundraising event for the Atlantic Salmon Trust at Fonthill, Wiltshire. In the UK, wild salmon populations have fallen by around 70 per cent since the 1980s – a stark warning that our aquatic ecosystems are under threat. The solution is simple, yet urgent: cold, clean water. Charlton was in the audience. 'I thought, this is the sort of thing that needs a platform,' she says. Afterwards, she approached Legge-Bourke with a bold idea: 'We should do Chelsea.' Legge-Bourke agreed instantly. The Bull Ring Gates, just metres from the Thames, offered the perfect setting to raise awareness of salmon restoration and the broader importance of healthy river habitats. Although Charlton had previously shown at Chelsea, her expertise lay in garden design. For this ambitious project, she needed a partner with a botanical eye – and royal florist Shane Connolly knew just the person. He introduced her to Tattie Isles of Tattie Rose Studio, renowned for her wild, romantic floral installations. Despite having just welcomed her fourth child, Isles accepted the challenge. But then in January this year, a family tragedy for Legge-Bourke irrevocably changed the focus of the project. 'We were going through the process with Chelsea to bring the idea to life when the tragic events happened with Tiggy's stepson,' recalls Charlton. Edward Pettifor was among the 14 people tragically killed in the New Year's Day terrorist attack in New Orleans in 2025. The attacker, Shamsud-Din Bahar Jabbar, who was reportedly inspired by Isis, drove at speed down Bourbon Street, targeting pedestrians in a deliberate act of violence. In a statement released shortly after the incident, Edward's family said: 'The entire family are devastated at the tragic news of Ed's death in New Orleans. He was a wonderful son, brother, grandson, nephew and a friend to so many. We will all miss him terribly.' Prince William said, 'Our thoughts and prayers remain with the Pettifer family and all those innocent people who have been tragically impacted by this horrific attack.' A fly fisherman and keen campaigner for the plight of salmon like his stepmother, it felt like a natural decision to realise the project in his memory. 'I felt it made it even more compelling to do something,' says Charlton. 'There are bad things that happen in the world and so it's great that we can do something with a positive message. I had a sense that Tiggy would want to do it even more so.' Legge-Bourke and Charlton secured a private sponsor for the project in Pettifor's memory. 'People who wanted to support Tiggy have enabled this to happen in Ed's memory so there's a lasting legacy and it has some positive impact on a cause they're all passionate about.' Private funding has meant that the trio haven't had to seek brand sponsorship alongside their message. 'It allowed it to become more personal within the team now,' says Charlton. The installation, titled Across the Ocean, Home Again, takes on added poignancy in the wake of Pettifor's death. 'If you think about his journey and the salmon's journey – they go across the ocean and come home again – which is essentially what happened to Ed [after his death]. It's deliberate,' says Charlton. Wild Atlantic salmon undertake one of nature's most extraordinary migrations – born in the headwaters of our rivers, they travel thousands of miles across the Atlantic to the waters off Greenland, before returning to their native rivers to spawn, completing a powerful cycle that sustains entire ecosystems. The installation aims to inspire thousands of visitors to reflect on the vital role of wild salmon restoration in addressing the twin crises of biodiversity loss and climate change. Organisers hope it will galvanise collective action to protect and restore cold, clean water habitats – essential not only for salmon, but for the health of the planet and future generations. The display features 100 plants in addition to cut flowers, including cow parsley, Marsh marigold, Yellow flag iris, lesser bull rush and lace capped viburnum. The plants have been sourced from suppliers based along British rivers and additional foliage has been collected from hedgerows at Isles's West Dorset home. The one hundred plaster salmon have been hand made by Isles, cast from actual whole salmon. 'Tattie is the designer. So it's her vision,' says Charlton. However, it has very much been a family affair coming up with the concept. 'The vision of the mould for the salmon was created by Tiggy's brother.' Salmon, a prehistoric species, are now in sharp decline. As a keystone species, they support a complex web of life – countless sub-species rely on their presence to survive. 'Because of what we're doing in terms of climate change and pollution, killing key stone species that support a whole network of other things,' says Charlton. That shared concern is rooted in something deeply personal. All three women live by rivers: the Usk for Legge-Bourke, the Test for Charlton and the Frome for Isles – places where their love of the water and its fragile ecosystem has taken shape over a lifetime. Both Charlton and Isles bring a strong commitment to sustainability to their work in garden and botanical design. As a show runner at the Chelsea Flower Show, Charlton has overseen not just the creation of gardens, but their thoughtful repurposing once the event ends. Her path to horticulture was an unconventional one: previously part of the senior leadership team at professional services network KPMG, she eventually left corporate life to follow her passion for the natural world into garden design. Now a leader in sustainability within the horticultural industry, in particular she has pioneered the concept of carbon handprint, which measures the positive environmental impact of a product or service, specifically focusing on how it helps others reduce their carbon footprint. Isles uses only sustainably sourced ingredients and minimal waste. All of the plants used in the installation will be replanted, and cut flowers and greenery composted. The frame and structures, made from repurposed materials, will be used again. The model salmon will go on to be used to raise awareness for salmon conservation in other ways following the show. For Charlton, the project shows what individuals can achieve when they are passionate about something they believe in. 'Tiggy is incredibly passionate and energetic, and you could say the same things about all three of us. We have different skills and yet with our different networks we've come together. And we're creating something really beautiful with a beautiful legacy message as well. It's in Ed's memory but it's about making something that has some value for the future.'

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