
Sydney has scored a golden-hued Italian restaurant with a former Clam Bar chef
Expect fresh, handmade pastas – like the signature pici carbonara served tableside from a gigantic Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese wheel, then topped with crisp nuggets of guanciale, a canary-yellow yolk and pecorino snow. Plus, a 250+-strong wine list – including 25 by-the-glass options – and a standout dining room featuring a hand-painted ceiling mural swirling with terracotta, honey and amber tones that looks like a flowing sarong worn in the European sun.
Andrew Wallace, Esper Group director, says: 'We want the care and love we're pouring into the venue to be felt by our guests, so that when they're here, they're doing more than just consuming a meal.
'We want to take them on a journey where they feel welcome, know they will receive elevated yet personal service, and create memories each time they visit,' he adds.
Rovollo's kitchen team is also impressive, with executive chef Cami Feliciano (ex- Seta) and head chef Zane Buchanan (ex- Clam Bar, Fish Butchery) creating a menu of Italian classics, beautifully done. Think housemade focaccia, golden arancini and a must-order yellowfin tuna crudo amped up with pickled tomatoes. Other highlights include vongole spaghetti with chilli butter and zest, an 800g steak of the day served with your choice of sauce, and a 24-layer dark chocolate cake with a warm rosemary-infused berry compote.
Cocktails are no afterthought. Try the bright and citrusy Amalfi, made with grappa and finished with a salted limoncello blue foam. Or The Napoli: a freezer gin- or vodka-based Martini with charred focaccia vermouth, burrata whey, basil and tomato oil.
Rovollo's $115 per person set menu includes four antipasti dishes, a pasta or protein, sides and Rovollo's tiramisu spoon. Go for that, I reckon.
These are the best Italian restaurants in Sydney.
Looking for something to wash it all down with? These are our favourite bars in Sydney right now.
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