14-07-2025
Sydney has scored a golden-hued Italian restaurant with a former Clam Bar chef
Martin Place keeps getting better and better with the arrival of Rovollo, a new family-run Italian go-to by the team behind Mille Vini and Rosie Campbell's, now open on the ground floor of Harry Seidler's skyscraper. The 75-seat restaurant and wine bar, which offers indoor and alfresco seating, brings old-school hospitality, a standout, golden-hued dining room and the warmth of Italy's lively eateries to the drinking and dining hub, joining nearby heavy-hitters Aalia, The International and Cabana Bar.
Expect fresh, handmade pastas – like the signature pici carbonara served tableside from a gigantic Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese wheel, then topped with crisp nuggets of guanciale, a canary-yellow yolk and pecorino snow. Plus, a 250+-strong wine list – including 25 by-the-glass options – and a standout dining room featuring a hand-painted ceiling mural swirling with terracotta, honey and amber tones that looks like a flowing sarong worn in the European sun.
Andrew Wallace, Esper Group director, says: 'We want the care and love we're pouring into the venue to be felt by our guests, so that when they're here, they're doing more than just consuming a meal.
'We want to take them on a journey where they feel welcome, know they will receive elevated yet personal service, and create memories each time they visit,' he adds.
Rovollo's kitchen team is also impressive, with executive chef Cami Feliciano (ex- Seta) and head chef Zane Buchanan (ex- Clam Bar, Fish Butchery) creating a menu of Italian classics, beautifully done. Think housemade focaccia, golden arancini and a must-order yellowfin tuna crudo amped up with pickled tomatoes. Other highlights include vongole spaghetti with chilli butter and zest, an 800g steak of the day served with your choice of sauce, and a 24-layer dark chocolate cake with a warm rosemary-infused berry compote.
Cocktails are no afterthought. Try the bright and citrusy Amalfi, made with grappa and finished with a salted limoncello blue foam. Or The Napoli: a freezer gin- or vodka-based Martini with charred focaccia vermouth, burrata whey, basil and tomato oil.
Rovollo's $115 per person set menu includes four antipasti dishes, a pasta or protein, sides and Rovollo's tiramisu spoon. Go for that, I reckon.
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