The Best Dishes Eater San Francisco's Editors Ate in May
Unfortunately, it took me more than two years to learn Balboa Street's Laundromat had gluten-free pizza. The times I tried to go upon its maddeningly popular debut, I couldn't get in, giving up over time as I thought, 'Well, what can I eat at a bagels and pizza place anyways?' I'd go by in the mornings, grabbing a cup of Grand Coffee, ever curious as my friends wolfed the bagels. On a sunny evening, I finally ordered my gluten-free pie. Stupendous. Stupid springy and crispy at the same time, crackly bits of cheese on the base with light slices of fennel reigning above all the indulgent lordliness below. After the Brussels sprouts, the goat cheese was nutty and rich enough that I thought there was a base of tahini beneath the dish, and I could barely finish. Fortunately, I have reason to wait in line next time.
The Laundromat (3725 Balboa Street) is open for dinner Wednesday and Thursday 5 to 9 p.m., Friday and Saturday 5 to 10 p.m., and Sunday 5 to 8 p.m.
— Paolo Bicchieri Devilish half chicken at Jules
Those who have attended Max Blachman-Gentile's pop-up, Jules, know very well the mastery of his pizzas, as he's toured them around town at various restaurants since 2023. Just this month, Blachman-Gentile opened his new permanent restaurant in the Lower Haight, and yes, the pizzas are amazing as always. But this location is also a chance to see Blachman-Gentile stretch beyond the pies. So I'm here to sing the praises of one of the (non pizza) showstoppers from a recent meal: this devilish half chicken. The nicely-salted, crisp, fried chicken skin is just the eye-popping start of this dish that employees in season vegetables and herbs — here, some snap peas and mint — along with deliciously-cooked chicken underneath. I was also truly impressed by the sauce, which packs a nice heat to it without being overwhelming, and it served as a nice accompaniment to the mushroom-loaded Fun Guy pizza on the table. If I may, while you're at it, don't skip the desserts: my dining companion and I split both options, including an incredible ice cream with chocolate shell and fennel pollen on top.
Jules (237 Fillmore Street) is open 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday, and 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. Friday through Saturday.
— Dianne de Guzman Squid ink fried rice at Le Soleil
Also in the Richmond District (can anyone tell I moved recently?) is the simple, unadorned treasure chest of a restaurant Le Soleil: This could very well be the lead ship in the west side's restaurant armada. The extended naval metaphor is in honor of this squid ink fried rice, crowned with tobiko as garlic and scallion dot the scene and encircle the dish. The chunks of squid are well placed throughout the elegant dome of rice, allowing for chew without texture overload. The pop from the fish egg and the crisp of the fried garlic provides further balance. Ordering the quail, flambéed table side, is a sharp move. Our server said he fires a ton of them every night. When you're a captain of San Francisco dining, that comes with the territory.
Le Soleil (133 Clement Street) is open Mondays 11:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. and 4:30 to 8:30 p.m., Wednesday through Saturday 11:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. and 4:30 to 8:30 p.m.
— Paolo Bicchieri Joojeh kabob at Lavash
As a food editor going out on the town often, when I dine with friends, I'm typically expected to be the one to pick the location. There's nothing wrong with that, as it comes with the territory, but what I'm usually interested in is where my friends love to go for a meal on their own. I have my own lists and (insane) Google map pins, but oftentimes when I force the decision on others, I find places that aren't yet on my radar. Such was the case at Lavash, a charming Persian restaurant on Irving Street, where I had a recent lunch this month. Letting my friend take the lead on ordering, it was a truly refreshing meal, including an herb-filled sabzi paneer platter, ghormeh sabzi, and this lovely joojeh kabob. Composed of chicken breast and thighs, the marinated meat sang against the grains of perfectly cooked basmati saffron rice. This friend, a regular, thankfully knew to ask if the kitchen could add zereshk, or barberries, atop the rice, which gave everything another dimension as we tore into each bite. Pairing with this food is a gorgeous space just bursting with flowers, and it's an all-around great place to drop in for a meal, and one I'll be coming back to in the future.
Lavash (511 Irving Street) is open from noon to 3 p.m. and 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Friday, and noon to 9 p.m. Saturday and Sunday.
— Dianne de Guzman
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