Does Red Light Therapy Work? We Had Dermatologists Weigh In

Forbes

3 days ago

Red light therapy has skyrocketed in popularity over the past several years as a treatment for everything from hyperpigmentation to fine lines to promoting hair growth. As a result, expensive at-home skincare devices such as LED face masks, decollétage masks, and hair growth caps have flooded the market. But is red light therapy as transformative as skincare companies claim? 'Red light therapy has many benefits to the skin, from stimulating cellular activity and improving blood flow to lowering inflammation and increasing collagen and elastin production,' says Dr. Rhonda Klein, board-certified dermatologist at Modern Dermatology.
According to the dermatologists we spoke with, red light therapy is effective for decreasing ... More hyperpigmentation, fine lines, redness and acne with consistent use. ILLUSTRATION: FORBES / PHOTO: GETTY
To dig further into the science, we spoke with Klein and board-certified dermatologist and cosmetic surgeon Dr. Nathan Newman to gain insight into this compelling, non-invasive beauty trend. Here, the lowdown on red light therapy devices.
There is a growing body of data to show that red light therapy, a type of photobiomodulation therapy, is beneficial both cosmetically and medically. 'Red light therapy—which has a wavelength range of 630–660 nanometers—penetrates the skin to stimulate mitochondrial activity,' says Newman. 'This enhances energy production, which helps fuel cellular repair and regeneration.' Clinically, according to Newman, this results in improved collagen production to firm and tone skin, a reduction in fine lines and wrinkles, improved hydration, decreased inflammation and redness (such as with rosacea), and post-procedure recovery, enhanced wound healing and improved microcirculation.
Yes, they have been proven to demonstrate anti-aging benefits, but an LED face mask is not a magical device of instant gratification, and patience is key. (Check out our story on the best LED face masks or our review of the Omnilux vs. Currentbody masks.) 'Red light therapy works gradually, not overnight,' says Klein. 'It is most effective with consistent use, and while it can improve skin, it won't replace your skincare regimen and lifestyle choices.' Translation: Don't abandon sunscreen, avoid smoking, get adequate sleep and eat a balanced diet.
For realistic and noticeable results, make a commitment. 'Unlike more potent procedures like lasers or microneedling, red light therapy is cumulative,' says Newman. 'Visible changes typically appear after several weeks or months of consistent use.' To maximize results, 'use your LED mask on clean, dry skin, follow the recommended time (usually 10–20 minutes), and be consistent—three to five times a week is ideal,' says Klein. 'Always wear eye protection if advised and don't skip sunscreen during the day.' Who Should Not Use An LED Face Mask?
Red light therapy isn't ideal for everyone: 'If you have an active skin infection or open wound, do not use red light therapy,' says Klein. 'If you have a chronic medical condition, such as lupus, talk to your doctor first.' Lastly, she cautions, anyone using a photosensitizing medication, like certain antibiotics or diuretics, should not use red light therapy. It's always best to check with your prescribing physician first, says Klein.