The real reason your skincare stops working when you're over 50
The reason? Perimenopause. Kent and Harley Street-based aesthetic practitioner Dr Sophie Shotter explains: 'During perimenopause there is a big drop in collagen production. The skin's ability to produce its own hyaluronic acid [which keeps the skin cells looking nice and plump] also decreases. Added to this, the skin barrier [the protective outer layer which keeps water in and nasties out] doesn't function as well as it did in our 20s so this has a knock-on effect of making the skin much drier and more sensitive than before.'
The good news is that it's not all doom and gloom. Now in my mid-50s, and after incorporating a few skincare switch-ups on the advice I've gleaned from the likes of Dr Sophie, I think my skin is in better shape than it's been for years.
These are the five changes that I found most helpful.
Top up moisture levels
During the day, I tend not to wear a moisturiser as I use an SPF cream and I find another layer of face cream on top of SPF is a bit much, so instead I've made sure to use a good night cream that includes ceramides, which are helpful for an impaired skin barrier. I love Eucerin Hyaluron-Filler Night Cream, which a dermatologist recommended to me. A hyaluronic serum is also helpful. Every beauty editor I know swears by Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Serum, which is excellent (used both morning and night). Vichy Mineral 89 Hyaluronic Acid Serum is a good, cost effective option.
I've also adopted the French women's habit of doing a weekly hydrating mask. British skincare brand Katherine Daniels is new to me, and its award-winning Anti-Fatigue Mask, is lovely. It takes just two minutes while you brush your teeth to achieve more luminous, nourished-looking skin. I also found one of the many pluses of beginning HRT medication was better-looking skin and nails, but I know this isn't for everybody, in which case a good barrier repairing night cream and hyaluronic serum would be a great start to boost your skin.
Avoid overly complex products
We're bombarded with often very pricey skincare options with lots of so-called active ingredients to deal with midlife skin – usually the opposite of what we need at this age. If, like me, your skin is more sensitive than it used to be, going back to basics is a good plan. All dermatologists agree that you don't need to spend a fortune on cleanser, for example. One of my favourites is Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser (£11.50, Boots), which has a lovely soothing texture and is a pleasure to use.
Face massage and an extra pillow
Since turning 50, I've definitely noticed my face is puffier, especially in the morning. Dr Shotter explains: 'Our lymphatics become more sluggish as we age, and when we've been horizontal all night, some people will notice this around their jawline and lower face.' Facialist Tine Hagelquist who I see when she is in London (she treats the Danish royals) is a specialist in lymphatic drainage and taught me a couple of massage tricks to do every morning to look a bit more defined. 'The first thing to do is to open the lymphatic portals by the collarbone which you do by pressing very lightly about 20 times,' she explains. 'Then keeping very light, almost feathery movements use your two fingers to make a V shape and drain out along the jawline to the earlobes and then down the neck. Move slowly up the face under the cheekbones and keep drawing the fingers towards the earlobes and down the neck.' I do this just after brushing my teeth and I notice a difference when I forget. I also think sleeping with an extra pillow helps too.
Try a Retinol (or non-irritating equivalent)
If lines bother you, you may want to try a product with retinol or retinal (vitamin A derivatives). Obviously wrinkle-relaxing toxin injections will soften (or erase if you wish) forehead wrinkles, but lots of people prefer a more natural approach (or a combination of both). To date retinols have more evidence-based results than any other skincare ingredient for boosting collagen production, helping smooth fine lines, evening out skin tone and keeping pores clear. In other words, they are the bee's knees for anti-ageing. 'There are many different forms and strengths available,' says Dr Shotter. 'In a nutshell, retinal products tend to be more sophisticated formulations and are often better tolerated than some retinol products. But it's a matter of trying one that's right for you.'
Medik8 Crystal Retinal 6 Night Serum, £49, John Lewis; Dose by VH Super Bakuchiol Serum, £18, Victoria Health
Medik8 is a leader in the market and has created some brilliant retinals which even my sensitive skin responds well to and looks less lined and luminous when I use it. Its products are graded so you begin on a low dose and move up when you feel your skin looks like it needs some extra help. I love the Medik8 Crystal Retinal 6 Night Serum and have used it for several years.
If you have tried retinoids and they don't agree with you, look for products containing bakuchiol which lots of people refer to as nature's retinol. It won't be as effective but does a good job. Dose by VH Super Bakuchiol Serum makes skin glow.
Try a medical-strength product if needed
Vichy Liftactiv B3 Dark Spot and Wrinkle Serum, £43, Boots
If you have a particular concern, be it pigmentation, midlife acne or rosacea – which can all be exacerbated in midlife – then a visit to a dermatologist should be your first port of call. I have finally got rid of a lot of sun pigmentation marks on my face including hormonal melasma (which began 20 years ago when I had my children) and as a measure to keep it at bay, I now apply a medical-strength tranexamic acid serum which you can purchase from a dermatologist or aesthetic doctor. Tranexamic acid inhibits the pigment-producing process in our skin and has a calming and anti-inflammatory effect. It can also help restore a disrupted skin barrier so it's a really helpful ingredient for midlife skin. Lots of over-the-counter products contain it and a particularly effective one is Vichy Liftactiv B3 Dark Spot and Wrinkle Serum.
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