Globetrotting European family's adventure reaches — and ends — in Alberta
The couple sold their home in Belgium, packed up their three small children and bought an R.V., affectionately named 'Jeff.'
'One day, we decided, oh, let's go travel, let's go travel with the kids so we can enjoy the time they are small and still care about us,' said Nicolas with a laugh.
He, like Anaïse, was already an avid traveller, but this was still a big step that hit a big speedbump just one kilometre in.
'We started with a mechanical problem, so we had to wait one year in Belgium to start it again when we already sold our house and everything,' said Anaïse.
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However, the family of five finally began what they dubbed the 'Waffle World Tour,' travelling 60,000 km from Europe along the Silk Road to Asia, before ferrying the R.V. to Central America and driving up into Canada.
While architecture and tourism was certainly a bonus during the extended adventure, Nicolas says the best part was the conversations.
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'I will say the greatest thing about travelling for us — aside from the food because I love to eat — is people. You tend to realize that people are awesome everywhere.'
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Click to share quote on Twitter: "I will say the greatest thing about travelling for us — aside from the food because I love to eat — is people. You tend to realize that people are awesome everywhere."
He says it was eye-opening to chat with people in Iran, India, Mexico, and even here in Canada.
While cultures and customs may be vastly different from nation to nation, he says the people remain the same, yet still different.
The couple says this understanding was especially beneficial for their children, Esteban, Santiago and Livia. The oldest boys are 10-year-old twins, while their daughter is eight.
'I did like (travelling), but we had a few problems,' said Esteban.
He says while travelling around Asia, the world felt very different from the Europe he knew.
'They (pinch your cheeks and ruffle your hair) and that is 'I love you,' but it's not very fun because it hurts,' he said with a grin.
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Still, the child said it was fun to learn about different people from around the world, all while taking in surfing, diving and other activities.
The kids are homeschooled on the road, ensuring they haven't fallen behind while experiencing this journey.
All good things must come to an end, though, and the Waffle World Tour has hit the finish line.
'When we decided to cross over to Central America, we said OK, let's finish in Canada and then we will try to find a way to stay there,' said Anaïse.
Yes — even after exploring 38 countries across several continents, the Peetermans have decided that the best place to call home is none other than Lethbridge, Alberta.
'People are so nice, so respectful I will say as well — much more than in Europe as we are used to. So, all this makes us (speechless),' said Nicolas.
He said they are hoping to sort out visas, enroll their kids in school and find work to really settle down for the first time in almost four years.
'(We'll) get these kids back to school and create a new life here in Canada.'
Tweet This
Click to share quote on Twitter: "(We'll) get these kids back to school and create a new life here in Canada."
It all started with a bit of courage to make their dreams come true. This, they say, is crucial for anyone looking to begin any adventure.
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Global News
2 days ago
- Global News
Globetrotting European family's adventure reaches — and ends — in Alberta
Three and a half years ago, Belgian husband and wife duo Nicolas and Anaïse Peetermans decided to uproot their lives and travel the world. The couple sold their home in Belgium, packed up their three small children and bought an R.V., affectionately named 'Jeff.' 'One day, we decided, oh, let's go travel, let's go travel with the kids so we can enjoy the time they are small and still care about us,' said Nicolas with a laugh. He, like Anaïse, was already an avid traveller, but this was still a big step that hit a big speedbump just one kilometre in. 'We started with a mechanical problem, so we had to wait one year in Belgium to start it again when we already sold our house and everything,' said Anaïse. Story continues below advertisement However, the family of five finally began what they dubbed the 'Waffle World Tour,' travelling 60,000 km from Europe along the Silk Road to Asia, before ferrying the R.V. to Central America and driving up into Canada. While architecture and tourism was certainly a bonus during the extended adventure, Nicolas says the best part was the conversations. Get breaking National news For news impacting Canada and around the world, sign up for breaking news alerts delivered directly to you when they happen. Sign up for breaking National newsletter Sign Up By providing your email address, you have read and agree to Global News' Terms and Conditions and Privacy Policy 'I will say the greatest thing about travelling for us — aside from the food because I love to eat — is people. You tend to realize that people are awesome everywhere.' Tweet This Click to share quote on Twitter: "I will say the greatest thing about travelling for us — aside from the food because I love to eat — is people. You tend to realize that people are awesome everywhere." He says it was eye-opening to chat with people in Iran, India, Mexico, and even here in Canada. While cultures and customs may be vastly different from nation to nation, he says the people remain the same, yet still different. The couple says this understanding was especially beneficial for their children, Esteban, Santiago and Livia. The oldest boys are 10-year-old twins, while their daughter is eight. 'I did like (travelling), but we had a few problems,' said Esteban. He says while travelling around Asia, the world felt very different from the Europe he knew. 'They (pinch your cheeks and ruffle your hair) and that is 'I love you,' but it's not very fun because it hurts,' he said with a grin. Story continues below advertisement Still, the child said it was fun to learn about different people from around the world, all while taking in surfing, diving and other activities. The kids are homeschooled on the road, ensuring they haven't fallen behind while experiencing this journey. All good things must come to an end, though, and the Waffle World Tour has hit the finish line. 'When we decided to cross over to Central America, we said OK, let's finish in Canada and then we will try to find a way to stay there,' said Anaïse. Yes — even after exploring 38 countries across several continents, the Peetermans have decided that the best place to call home is none other than Lethbridge, Alberta. 'People are so nice, so respectful I will say as well — much more than in Europe as we are used to. So, all this makes us (speechless),' said Nicolas. He said they are hoping to sort out visas, enroll their kids in school and find work to really settle down for the first time in almost four years. '(We'll) get these kids back to school and create a new life here in Canada.' Tweet This Click to share quote on Twitter: "(We'll) get these kids back to school and create a new life here in Canada." It all started with a bit of courage to make their dreams come true. This, they say, is crucial for anyone looking to begin any adventure.
Winnipeg Free Press
2 days ago
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True north travelogue: Free Press staff share their travel recommendations for Canada
Maybe it was the nonsensical chatter about making Canada the 51st state. Or the on-again, off-again, on-again tariff threats. Or maybe Canadians just decided to love the one that they're with, a country with big blue skies (wildfire smoke notwithstanding), stunning mountains and lakes, iconic highways and vibrant towns and cities. Regardless of the reason, Canadians are staying home in droves this summer. According to a June Leger poll, 77 per cent of travellers are heading east, west and north across the country, but definitely not south. Only 10 per cent plan to travel to the U.S. The true north is where the vacation heart beats. With that in mind, Free Press writers and editors reflect on some of their favourite Canadian haunts, destinations and memories from years gone by. So, roll down the window and turn up the music because we're going on a road trip. My first big family trip happened when I was 12, and I remember it vividly for two reasons. First, it was a month-long road trip from Manitoba to Nova Scotia in a cramped 1990 Honda Civic hatchback, with my parents, my sister, and me packed in tight, travelling light on comfort. Second, my parents pulled us out of school a week early — a move that felt wildly rebellious at the time. I still think about that trip often and retell the stories to my wife regularly. Our destination was just outside Bridgewater, N.S., where a relative lived on several acres of land with chickens and towering Belgian horses. For a Prairie kid, it was a completely different world. The mornings smelled like heaven — the salty, calming scent of the ocean drifting in. Andrew Vaughan / The Canadian Press files The lighthouse at Peggy's Cove, N.S. Andrew Vaughan / The Canadian Press files The lighthouse at Peggy's Cove, N.S. We saw so much: Peggy's Cove, the Bay of Fundy, Cape Breton Island — still, in my opinion, the most beautiful drive in all of Canada. We crossed the new Confederation Bridge to reach P.E.I. Along the way, we explored Quebec City, Montreal, Ottawa and Toronto. I saw covered bridges, real elevation changes — everything felt fresh and unfamiliar. All of it was soundtracked by MuchDance 97 and a homemade cassette of radio hits I'd recorded for my Walkman. There were no cellphones, barely any tech at all. Maybe that's why the memories have stuck with me so clearly — unfiltered, uninterrupted and deeply cherished. — Scott Billeck, news reporter On Highway 11 between Saskatoon and Regina lies some of the best pub grub and ambience on the Prairies. Big Mur's Tavern is in the heart of Dundurn, 42 kilometres south of Saskatoon. The former Wascana Hotel used to be a run-of-the-mill, Prairie-town watering hole with a jar of pickled eggs on the counter, a beer vendor, cheap rooms to rent and a fenced courtyard full of junk. Today, it's a destination roadhouse, with a treed outdoor patio full of antique or odd vehicles, including a fire truck, school bus and a giant Radio Flyer red wagon that's been converted into an elevated dining area. Supplied Big Mur's Tavern, 315 2nd St., Dundurn, Sask. Supplied Big Mur's Tavern, 315 2nd St., Dundurn, Sask. It's the same old building on the outside that's been transformed into an oasis inside for road-weary travellers. After driving on the barren Prairie for hours, Big Mur's is a feast for the eyes and the stomach. Stop and be amazed by upcycled bike, boat, snowmobile, car and truck parts, and curios tucked into the seating and décor. Unlike chain restaurants with a retro theme and cookie-cutter motif, Big Mur's is full of original finds. When it comes to the menu, though, it's familiar pub fare: pulled pork, sweet potato fries, battered pickles and unapologetic knockoffs — like the 'Popeye's Knockoff' chicken burger and the 'Mc Mur' burger. 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And on that night when Donavan Bailey won gold for Canada at the Atlanta Olympics, I'll never forget the golden memory I was making far beyond the reach of most Canadians. — Paul Samyn, editor Experiencing Regina feels a bit like getting sucked into a time machine that can only move backwards. Everything in it feels like a memory, even when it happens in front of you. The last time I was there, it was right after their tourism organization changed its branding to reference a 16-year-old viral video and a suggestive joke, before apologizing and quickly reverting it back. There's a museum where the main attraction was, until recently, a robotic dinosaur named Megamunch (RIP). Several photos from my last trip include a person in an early-2000s velour tracksuit in the background. Even the open friendliness of the people we met felt of a pre-COVID era. 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Niigaan Sinclair / Free Press Niigaan Sinclair on the side of the road along the 74 kilometre stretch of highway south from Whitehorse to Carcross, Yukon. Niigaan Sinclair / Free Press Niigaan Sinclair on the side of the road along the 74 kilometre stretch of highway south from Whitehorse to Carcross, Yukon. Not only is there nearly 24 hours of sunlight for three months, but everything that could possibly be conceived of outdoors is done all at once — from rock festivals to food and culture expos to huge ceremonial events — culminating in the return of the northern lights when darkness returns in mid-August. I'll tell anyone who will listen that, outside of Manitoba, I would live permanently in the North. On top of the endless sunlight, there are fewer people, less pollution, and a sense of peace that is second to none. There is also a kind of neighbourly feel in virtually every place you go — where everyone knows everyone else in every way — and a widescale commitment to community and visiting that hearkens to my youth in smalltown Manitoba. Niigaan Sinclair / Free Press The Haa Shagoon Hidi centre in Carcross, Yukon. Niigaan Sinclair / Free Press The Haa Shagoon Hidi centre in Carcross, Yukon. The land, though, is the real story. I've seen an eagle the size of a small human, traveled rapids that have thrilled and awed me, and soaked in hot springs after awe-inspiring hikes. My personal favourite is the 74-kilometre stretch of highway south from Whitehorse to Carcross, where my daughter and I experienced mountain views — and a desert— that changed our lives, with the day culminating in a remarkable visit to the gorgeous Haa Shagóon Hídi cultural centre, built by the Tagish and Tlingit people. Give me some summertime and give me the North every time. — Niigaan Sinclair, columnist With its smoke-stacked skyline, Hamilton — the Hammer, as it's affectionately known by residents — has long been underestimated as an eyesore for passersby making the trek from Toronto to Niagara Falls. I'd argue that's an advantage for budget-friendly tourists who prefer to steer clear of crowds and long lines. James Street North has everything an unpretentious vacationer could possibly want, from the cosiest of coffee shops, including Mulberry Coffeehouse — my personal favourite, as a born-and-raised Hamiltonian — to walkability to the waterfront. The historic strip transforms into a street party on the second Friday of every month. Art Crawl sees galleries open their doors to the public and creatives set up booths and play instruments in the downtown core. Maggie Macintosh photo Maggie Macintosh and her sister, as young teens on a hike outside Canterbury Falls — one of the more than 100 waterfalls inside Hamont city limits. Maggie Macintosh photo Maggie Macintosh and her sister, as young teens on a hike outside Canterbury Falls — one of the more than 100 waterfalls inside Hamont city limits. Bayfront Park has an iconic tugboat playground and winding paths for cyclists or pedestrians who want to explore Hamilton Harbour. Its Pier 8 platform hosts a roller-skating pad with rentals. The original Collective Arts Brewing taproom is steps away for post-skate refreshments. For those with a sweet tooth, Hutch's Harbour Front serves up classic ice cream. Nearby Ola's Bakery also makes a tasty pastel de nata and other treats that reflect the city's Portuguese diaspora. Artists, musicians and restaurateurs have flocked to the city over the last 15 years, owing to cheap rent by Toronto standards. The Ontario capital is only 45 minutes east by car or public transit, but inbound traffic can be terribly backed up — yet another reason to skip Toronto for its overshadowed sibling! Instead, spend your vacation visiting Sherman Falls, Albion Falls or one of the other 100 waterfalls situated within Hamilton's city limits. — Maggie Macintosh, education reporter Put the canoe into the South Saskatchewan River at the tiny Métis Round Prairie Church, just four pews in the whole place, the church standing square and solid near Chief Whitecap Trail. Cut down a narrow path surrounded by poison oak and blackberry canes to the water. Or haul the canoe across Paradise Beach on the other side of the river, through the deep, fine sand and then out into deep, fast water. Start at 8 a.m. before the heat comes. Russell Wangersky / Free Press A view from the canoe on the South Saskatchewan River. Russell Wangersky / Free Press A view from the canoe on the South Saskatchewan River. The first of those two trips is 40 kilometres downriver to town — the second, Paradise Beach to Saskatoon, just 25 km. Each its own full-day trip, the river fast and warm in July, the sandbanks shifting and always different under the bright, rippled water. No stones to gash up the canoe; run aground, and you can simply bail out of the canoe and drag it over the smooth obstacle. There are deer tracks on the sand islands, the shells of small long-dead crawfish, the spiral shells of tall freshwater snails. Eagles cycle and curve. White pelicans paddle among the ducks, out of place because of their sheer size. The bow of the canoe shifts and angles on unseen currents. Whatever you've brought for shore lunch will be delicious, even if you eat it at 10 a.m. Pass college kids on rafts of tied-together floating pool-toys, complete with beer and waterproof speakers blaring. Pass people fishing and sudden beaches strewn with folks and towels and shallow-water swimmers. Pass, eventually, the first rail bridge that heralds the edge of Saskatoon. A marvel, every single time. — Russell Wangersky, comment editor Every time I'm in Saskatoon, staying downtown, I walk a section of the Meewasin Trail on the other side of the South Saskatchewan River. If I'm staying at the chateauesque Bessborough Hotel, all granite and brick, I head through the Kiwanis Memorial Park to the Broadway Bridge. If I'm staying at the blue-roofed Park Town Hotel, at the other end of Spadina Crescent, I take the University Bridge. Looking at the river streaming by below, traffic above. And then, once I've gone over the river, I start walking the Meewasin Trail, a path in the Meewasin Valley. There's 105 kilometres of the trail, but the part I like to walk is the 3.4-km section that been dubbed the Cosmopolitan Park & Pioneer Cairn Monument. Sometimes, I walk at river level, looking at the geese and the ducks, at the water plants, at the shoreline. Sometimes, I walk the path halfway up the valley, looking at the layers of trees and shrubs, at the birds in the trees and the mushrooms on the ground. But I always walk between the two old bridges, one to get to Cosmopolitan Park and the other to leave it. I usually head out in the late afternoon and emerge from the valley at twilight — the sky purpling, the shadows deepening — walking the residential street at the top of the valley. I always feel ever-so-slightly disoriented, emerging from two to three hours in the woods and seeing those big houses. But I am always so glad, knowing that riparian zone, that plunge of river and woods, is available to me the next time I visit. — Ariel Gordon, copy editor After the cheese fondue comes the raw meat and a block of granite heated to more than 800 F. If you're adventurous, that protein can include rattlesnake, alligator or ostrich. This is the Grizzly House, in the heart of Banff between a candy store and gift shop, and its offerings are as much social as they are nourishing. It's long been a must-visit every time my wife and I are in the national park: in fact, depending on the season, it might be our only reason to visit. It's that good. Supplied The Banff Grizzly House, 207 Banff Ave, Banff, AB. Supplied The Banff Grizzly House, 207 Banff Ave, Banff, AB. Each diner gets a generous supply of sauces, from a garlicky aioli to sweet and sticky teriyaki. A supply of garlic butter, for cooking the protein on the rock, is also within reach. The process takes time, so you can chat with your tablemates instead of silently scarfing down food. It also helps to moderate your intake, since the process gives your stomach more time until it cries out 'I'm full!' Arguably, the only way to go here is the four-course fondue, which starts with the soup or salad, followed by the neufchâtel cheese fondue, which gives way to the proteins. It ends with a chocolate fondue with fresh fruit. Protein choices include beef, chicken, prawns and scallops. The exotic fondue offers up alligator, rattlesnake, daily exotic fish, ostrich, frog legs and venison. You can choose a hot rock or an oil fondue. We only get the rock. — Kelly Taylor, news editor For a city its size, Kelowna, B.C., is a hotbed of craft breweries, coffee shops and, of course, the many wineries for which the region is renowned. Not to be missed is Bernie's Supper Club and Cinema, where you can watch classic films in art deco style while being served cocktails and snacks. And it's a hiker's paradise, with loads of mountain trails. Jill Wilson / Free Press Rotary Marsh Park, found at the end of the Waterfront Promenade that skirts Okanagan Lake, is an oasis in downtown Kelowna. Jill Wilson / Free Press Rotary Marsh Park, found at the end of the Waterfront Promenade that skirts Okanagan Lake, is an oasis in downtown Kelowna. But you don't have to head into the hills to find a little bit of nature. Rotary Marsh Park, found at the end of the Waterfront Promenade that skirts Okanagan Lake, is an oasis in downtown Kelowna. It's directly off a major street and adjacent to high-rise condo buildings, but once you step in, it's an instant shot of serenity, with gravel paths and wooden boardwalks extending over duck-filled still ponds lined with cattails. If you go early in the morning, you might see a beaver or herons, and it's home to what seems like hundreds of red-winged blackbirds. There are plenty of benches to sit and enjoy the stillness, looking out over the mountains in the background. And right across the street is Sunset Drive Park, a secluded stretch of land that runs along a gorgeously overgrown creek. It's a favourite spot for joggers and dog walkers, but often, you'll have the short, picturesque path all to yourself. — Jill Wilson, arts & life editor Quebec City had long been on my list of destinations to visit, so when the opportunity came in 2018 to tack a couple of days in the city onto a trip to Montreal, I jumped at the chance. By some miracle, the historic Chateau Frontenac hotel had a deal of a lifetime, which allowed my then-boyfriend (now husband) and I to stay at the luxury spot for no more than a regular hotel would cost. Robert F. Bukaty / The Associated Press files The Chateau Frontenac rises above the fortified walls of Quebec City in October 2003. Robert F. Bukaty / The Associated Press files The Chateau Frontenac rises above the fortified walls of Quebec City in October 2003. It was December when we went, and the hotel deal was more or less where our luck ran out. An ice storm had hit a few days earlier and the sidewalks were slick. Quebec City is known for its inclined streets and staircases, which would usually be a treat to wander, but let's just say there was a lot of clenching happening to avoid wipeouts as we tried to see the sights. We did, however, make it to the Citadel of Quebec and enjoyed a tour my history-buff partner still talks about to this day, and because our trip was just a few weeks before Christmas, we also stumbled on a German-style holiday market that was perfectly quaint. Despite the rather arduous strolls about town, Quebec City left such an indelible mark with its old-European charm, stunning views, rich history and delicious food (a must-visit locale for cheese lovers). I look forward to returning at some point, preferably during summer or fall and for more than 48 hours, to better explore the Upper and Lower towns and experience more of the magic the city has to offer. — Erin Lebar, manager of audience engagement for news It's been a music institution in Toronto for longer than I have been alive, yet during 40-plus years of semi-regular visits to the Ontario capital, I had never been to Grossman's Tavern. Oh, I'd heard of the place, and had some inkling of its standing in the city's rich musical history, but it wasn't until a March 2023 visit for my father's 80th birthday that I finally checked it out for myself. Dean Pritchard / Free Press Dean Pritchard's dad, Al Pritchard, with a couple of old dolls they met at Grossman's Tavern in Toronto. Dean Pritchard / Free Press Dean Pritchard's dad, Al Pritchard, with a couple of old dolls they met at Grossman's Tavern in Toronto. It was Saturday afternoon and we had a few hours to kill before dinner. 'You want to go to Grossman's for a couple of beers?' Dad suggested. I thought you'd never ask. A quick history: Namesake Al Grossman opened Grossman's on Spadina Avenue in Chinatown as a deli-cafeteria in the 1940s. A few years later, a liquor licence now in place, Grossman's became the city's self-proclaimed 'home of the blues.' Grossman sold the tavern in 1975 to Sam Louie, whose family remains at its helm to this day. Blues, jazz, rock, folk — Grossman's has it all, seven days a week. Blue Rodeo, Rough Trade and Jeff Healey all stood on its stage in their early years. Our visit didn't disappoint. Like all the best drinking spots, Grossman's seems fixed in time — let's say 1973 — from the wobbly bar tables to the peeling performer posters and the walls coated with equal parts paint and cigarette smoke. As we walked in, the Happy Pals, the tavern's Saturday-afternoon house band for nearly half a century, was bringing classic New Orleans swing to a packed crowd of university hipsters, octogenarian great-grandmothers and everyone in between. I felt like I was home. I can't wait to get back. — Dean Pritchard, court reporter Exactly four years ago, on the August long weekend in 2021, my mum and I took a quick, one-night trip to Prince Edward County, Ont. She was living in downtown Toronto, and I was in Kingston, so the county was right in the middle. She was a whiz at tracking down cute bed and breakfasts, cabins and cottages to stay at — and was a great lover of a little weekend trip! — and this was no exception. She'd booked us at the Jackson's Falls Country Inn, which is about a 15-minute drive outside of Picton — the main hub of the county. Marsha McLeod / Free Press A common area at Jackson's Falls Country Inn, where Marsha McLeod stayed with her mum on an August long weekend trip in 2021. This part of the bed & breakfast used to be a one-room public school house, which was built in 1870. Marsha McLeod / Free Press A common area at Jackson's Falls Country Inn, where Marsha McLeod stayed with her mum on an August long weekend trip in 2021. This part of the bed & breakfast used to be a one-room public school house, which was built in 1870. That night, we went for dinner on the patio at Stella's Eatery. It's an Indigenous-owned restaurant that uses super-fresh, local ingredients, creating a menu that's always changing. Later, on the TV in our cosy room, we watched my childhood friend compete in sprint kayaking at the 2020 Tokyo Olympics, which had been delayed by COVID-19. Marsha McLeod / Free Press Marsha McLeod and her mum kayaking on West Lake in Prince Edward County, close to Sandbanks Provincial Park. Marsha McLeod / Free Press Marsha McLeod and her mum kayaking on West Lake in Prince Edward County, close to Sandbanks Provincial Park. The next day, we did some paddling of our own. We headed to a public boat launch — on the way towards Sandbank Provincial Park — and got out on West Lake with our kayaks. It was very windy, so we kept close to shore. We didn't get to it on this particular trip, but I highly recommend checking out the Sandbanks Dunes Trail, which is a super-unique 2.5-kilometre loop through the dunes. On your way home, stop for a treat at Slickers County Ice Cream (try the rhubarb-ginger flavour!). — Marsha McLeod, investigative reporter A piece of my heart belongs to The Opinicon, a cherished retreat nestled on Opinicon Lake along Ontario's historic Rideau Canal. It's a place where the scent of colourful flowers and fresh lake air instantly takes me back to my childhood. Its proximity to my family cottage on Indian Lake has made it an integral part of my summers for as long as I can remember. It's a destination that's facilitated my earliest and fondest memories and I can still taste the giant ice cream cones devoured on hot summer days after a relaxing boat ride through the historic Chaffey's Lock. Supplied The Opinicon, 1697 Chaffeys Lock Rd, Elgin, ON. Supplied Beyond my personal connections, The Opinicon holds a rich history that has shaped its enduring charm. For over 120 years, it has graced this picturesque spot, evolving from John Chaffey's 1896 residence to a fishing club, and then into a beloved family resort. After some challenging times, a change in ownership led to a significant renovation in 2016, with the much-needed repairs ushering in a new era. The once nostalgic but dated establishment has been transformed into a vibrant hub of activity for people of all ages. The old hotel rooms have given way to a modern restaurant serving high-end cuisine, and the lounge now vibrates with live music, injecting new energy into the entire area. Today, The Opinicon welcomes visitors by car, boat and even float plane, with the surrounding communities drawn by the modern accommodations. Still, no matter what age, that iconic ice cream shop remains my No. 1 summer ritual. — Jeff Hamilton, sports writer and investigative reporter In the 1990s, my grandma and grandpa Zoratti lived on a marina in Mill Bay, B.C., a town on Vancouver Island, about 41 kilometres north of Victoria, right on Saanich Inlet. My grandparents had lived all over British Columbia since moving from Winnipeg in the 1980s, but the marina was always my favourite — and most adventurous — of their homes. Supplied Thirteen-year-old Jen Zoratti at the beach in Mill Bay, B.C. Supplied Thirteen-year-old Jen Zoratti at the beach in Mill Bay, B.C. They lived in a seaside trailer community, which meant they were steps — literally — away from the rocky beach, which was full of oceanic treasures: sand dollars, crabs, starfish, sunfish. My grandma used to collect sand dollars with me. My gramps used to take us grandkids prawning on his boat, and it was always exciting if an octopus ended up in the net. You have to throw those suckers back quickly, lest they ink everywhere. But the best was visiting Mill Bay during seal pup season, which is July and August. They'd be there on the docks, sunning their chonky little bodies, peering up with their dark, wet eyes. Visits to the grandparents also included road trips all over the Island (and, as a '90s girl, buying as much gaudy orca-themed jewelry as I could get my hands on). As a Prairie kid, I was always knocked out not just by the sea life available for me to see, in real life, but the sheer size of the trees out there. Verdant giants, hundreds of years old. The trees impressed me more than the mountains. I haven't been to Vancouver Island in over 20 years. Might have to start planning a trip back. — Jen Zoratti, feature writer and columnist The imposing painting of three vertical stripes, nearly five-and-a-half metres tall and two-and-a-half across, struck me as I walked into the white-walled room, where high ceilings evoke a sanctuary in their slope toward a skylight. I'm at the National Gallery of Canada on a trip to the country's capital some years ago. Jessica Eblie Photo Erik Pindera gives a thumbs up in front of Voice of Fire during a 2022 trip to National Gallery of Canada. Jessica Eblie Photo Erik Pindera gives a thumbs up in front of Voice of Fire during a 2022 trip to National Gallery of Canada. Three stripes, two of deep navy, with the centre a bright red, are all that adorned this powerful canvas. I stared for 10 minutes, looking at how the light struck from different angles. American painter Barnett Newman, of the New York School, was commissioned to create the piece for the U.S. Pavilion at the Montreal International and Universal Exhibition — Expo '67 — prior to the gallery purchasing it for $1.8 million for its permanent collection in 1990. It was striking to me, a technical-college-educated lout. But I walked the halls of our country's national art museum with a connoisseur who knew the back story, so I soon found out Voice of Fire sparked much ire for its high price tag and simplistic look, while debate raged for weeks in the press over whether the 'meaningless' piece could even be considered art. With or without knowledge of the uproar, a trip to Ottawa and the national gallery to take in the piece is a must for all highfalutin or lowbrow Canadians alike, if only to decide for yourself whether it was worth the price. — Erik Pindera, justice reporter Pancake Bay Provincial Park near Sault Ste. Marie, Ont., offers a fantastic beach vacation along the shores of Lake Superior. The Great Lake has a deserved reputation for cold water but the beach is sheltered and shallow enough that it warms up nicely in summer and makes for a comfortable swim. The water is crystal clear and the sand is silky soft. Colin Perkel / The Canadian Press files Pancake Bay Provincial Park on Lake Superior offers kilometres of sand beach and a panoramic view of the lake from the "Edmund Fitzgerald" lookout hiking trail. Colin Perkel / The Canadian Press files Although I have never checked out any other beaches near Pancake Bay, locals tell me there are other great ones in the region. The drive along the north shore of Lake Superior to the Sault Ste. Marie region is spectacular with world-class views of the largest of North America's Great Lakes, especially in Lake Superior Provincial Park. Nearby Sault Ste. Marie is a pleasant city if you tire of the beach, with plenty of shops and restaurants. The Agawa Canyon Tour Train offers great day trips from the city into the northern forest and is a relaxing way to spend a day. Lake Superior's north shore is vast and I suggest making the trip to Sault Ste. Marie from Winnipeg at least a two-day drive. It's a good idea to book overnight hotel stays ahead of the trip, including any stopovers. Thunder Bay is a great spot to stop along the way. And don't forget to pose for pictures in front of the giant Wawa Goose in Wawa, Ont. — Greg Lockert, night editor I knew it was gonna be good because there was a lineup before it opened on a weekday morning. Sarah Vandale photo Blueberry lemon pancakes inside Jam Cafe in Kitsilano, B.C. in 2022. Sarah Vandale photo Blueberry lemon pancakes inside Jam Cafe in Kitsilano, B.C. in 2022. And it wasn't opening day, or, as far as I knew, anywhere near opening day. Jam Cafe, is just like that — drawing scores of people hungry for breakfast. Maybe it's the pancakes. They are the size of your face, stacked, fluffy and sometimes topped with unexpected ingredients, like pulled pork. My friends' mouths dropped when their orders came. I suspect that's the usual reaction from newbies. I opted for the avocado Benedict, because doesn't that scream Vancouver? We were at Jam Cafe's Kitsilano location, one of its three Vancouver hubs. It has another restaurant in Victoria. Sarah Vandale photo French toast from Jam Cafe. Sarah Vandale photo French toast from Jam Cafe. It's been three years since I've visited and I still think about it. Not necessarily the food, though with meals like 'green eggs and ham' and 'the fat Elvis waffle' — a melding of caramelized bananas, bacon and peanut butter — there's a lot to think about. What I remember is my group's excitement. The food was outstanding, the beach was nearby, the staff was so friendly. Downtown was a short bus ride away. This was the West Coast, and this was the perfect way to start an adventure-filled day. Jam Cafe fits perfectly into Kitsilano — a neighbourhood that encourages you to both speed up and slow down; the city bustle is around the corner, but so are sandy shores. It's a hustle to beat Jam's lineups. And once you're in, it's a happy space to slow down and enjoy. — Gabrielle Piché, business writer If you're a golf aficionado and looking to check off an important item on your bucket list, consider Cabot Cape Breton. Located in the seaside town of Inverness, N.S. — roughly three-and-a-half hours from Halifax — it's a magical place that features two incredible 18-hole layouts, Cabot Links and Cabot Cliffs. The number of breathtaking holes is difficult to comprehend and trying to choose a favourite when you've completed the test is nearly impossible — even after playing each course twice. Ken Wiebe / Free Press Cabot Cape Breton Golf Resort Ken Wiebe / Free Press Cabot Cape Breton Golf Resort To enhance the experience, go out with a caddie, as their knowledge is impeccable and you'll benefit from their ability to read the greens and offer insight on which trouble spots to try and avoid. As an added bonus, not having to carry your clubs during the day will allow you to feel like you're out playing on the tour — whether you're a scratch player or high handicapper. One of the other perks was having the ability to gather around the lounge chairs with the Atlantic Ocean providing a picturesque backdrop. Since my trip, the property has added an 11-hole short course called The Nest, which is located on the highest point of the property and offers a number of stunning views to go along with the challenging par-3s. Staying at the resort was the cherry on top for our stay and it offers the opportunity to enjoy a casual evening in the pub or a five-star meal in another one of the three restaurant options offered on site. I can't wait to get there again. — Ken Wiebe, sports writer While Leonard Cohen's So Long, Marianne specifically refers to an old love, the song also cannot help but conjure a modest street in Montreal's Plateau neighbourhood — Marie-Anne Street East — just off which the celebrated bard resided for a time. In a city of historic thoroughfares and scenic stretches featuring one-of-a-kind shops, eateries and cultural institutions, Marie-Anne is a narrow street (but nowhere near Old Montreal-vintage) mixing residential and commercial properties, and stretching 2.5 kilometres east from 'the Main' (St. Laurent Boulevard) near Cohen's former apartment just off Portugal Park, and terminating at Rue Fullum. Jason Halstead / Free Press During most of my time living in Montreal, I resided just north of Marie-Anne, a stone's throw from the bustling intersection of Mont-Royal Avenue and Saint Denis Street. I'd often bike home from downtown through Mont Royal Park, but instead of taking its busier, wider neighbours, I became partial to Marie-Anne. Not being a 'destination' street, there was just something about its mellow mix of the odd tiny mechanic's shop, low-key Portuguese eateries and cramped dépanneurs amid apartment stoops that attracted me. As did the tiny P'tit Plateau menu-fixe bistro at the corner of Rue Drolet and, a few blocks east, the tagine resto Au Tarot (both are still in business). In fact, many of the shops and eateries I frequented all along Marie-Anne remain in operation decades later (including independent record shop, L'Oblique), a testament to the street's enduring allure and livability. — Jason Halstead, copy editor About 26 kilometres north of Nakusp, B.C., and 11.5 kilometres up a series of winding, mountain switchbacks, a rough forest service road gives way to some of the best hidden hot springs in the Kootenay region. Located almost exactly halfway between Nakusp and Revelstoke, the Halfway Hot Springs are a natural oasis off the beaten path. The route may feel treacherous for an uninitiated Prairie tourist, owing to the steep incline, frequent washouts and blind corners. It is best travelled with a rented SUV and a loving companion in the passenger seat. Amber Tolsma photo Tyler Searle standing at the base of the mountainside staircase, right before the river valley. Amber Tolsma photo Upon arriving at the designated parking area, make your way to the trailhead, where hundreds of wooden steps are hewn into the mountainside and twist down between towering trees. You may need your companion again now, to hold your hand as you navigate each step, root and boulder on the 10-minute journey to the river valley below. There, you will find a smattering of mud-bottom springs, lined with stones and ground-fed via a makeshift tube network — all situated next to the babbling Halfway River. The site has been well known in local circles for generations, but has became more popular in recent years, particularly after BC Parks partially developed it in 2016. Amenities remain limited, but it now features change rooms, outhouses and about 22 campsites located away from the springs. Some have said it was once a popular destination for nudists, although that may be a story told to scare away tourists. Either way, it's a good place to spend an afternoon with someone you love. — Tyler Searle, news reporter At its peak Sandon, B.C., boasted 5,000 residents, an opera house, 29 hotels and a brothel. Today, one resident's all that's needed in this ghost town to run its hydro-electric plant, which services the wider area and is Canada's oldest continuously operating plant of its kind. When I visited Sandon about a decade ago, this resident was a grizzled philosophy PhD dropout in his 60s, who seemed to prefer using his spare time to work on his vintage BMW. Follow the snaking trolley cars and rail lines, and you'll arrive at Sandon's museum. You'll learn that the 'capital of the Silvery Slocan' glittered intensely from about 1891-1900, fuelled by the ambition of rough-and-tumble speculators free from the oversight of a mining company. After being disincorporated in 1920, Sandon went through other incarnations, including serving as a Japanese-Canadian internment camp during the Second World War. It's easy to get lost in this history, but there's more to see. Drive your truck or Jeep up the mountain's gravel road on a bright summer day — passing more dilapidated houses and real estate, too remote to be useful in B.C.'s housing crisis — to the summit. Gaze over the valley if you can take your eyes off the fireweed, paintbrush and wildflowers vibrating under the sun around you. Before leaving Sandon, penetrate its neighbouring forest for its cemetery, a small, dark sea of wooden crosses still standing tall for long-forgotten upstarts. An eerie, pretty relic of the boom-and-bust cycles that continue to surround Western Canada's extractive spirit. — Conrad Sweatman, feature writer At the end of every Wild Card podcast, host Rachel Martin poses a final question to celebrity guests: if they could take a trip in a memory time machine, where would they like to linger a little longer? Any family vacation with my wife and two daughters would rocket to the top of the list, but there is one remote locale that has long kept residency in the Gibbons memory motel. I don't know how Haida Gwaii, an archipelago off the northwest coast of B.C., landed on our pre-children holiday radar, but in the late 1990s we packed up the car and headed west. Joan Thomas photo Forest in Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve, Haida Gwaii. Joan Thomas photo Forest in Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve, Haida Gwaii. We camped along its northern tip (hey, you can see Alaska), hiked its sandy eastern flank strewn with thousands of washed-up logs, stood awestruck in rain forests, feasted on smoked salmon and marvelled at Haida artwork — from intricately carved canoes and masks, to fading totem poles eroded by time and the elements, to gift-store collectibles. The trip culminated with a kayaking adventure through the southern islands of Gwaii Haanas, a national park reserve and Haida heritage site, exploring natural wonders and culturally significant remnants of the First Nation, and sampling marine delicacies (sea urchin gonads, anyone?) After a week of paddling, we finally hit rough seas, forcing our group to take emergency shelter on a speck of land no bigger than a small city block. Overnight, the wind dropped and a thick fog descended, preventing our rendezvous with a float plane for nearly two days. Our entertainment options were limited — a campfire, short scrambles along the rocky shore and the occasional strumming of our guide's guitar. Surrounded by the bone-chilling waters of the Pacific and wrapped in misty walls of grey — isn't it the simple moments of life that we remember best? — Scott Gibbons, associate editor
