For 200 yrs, remote U'khand temple has had men & women as priests

Time of India

3 days ago

Dehradun: A centuries-old Vishnu shrine in a forested Himalayan valley in the upper reaches of Chamoli district has quietly been appointing a man and a woman each year for more thanm two centuries to serve jointly as priests.
This year, the Phulanarayan temple in Urgam valley opened its doors last week, marking the beginning of a 45-day ritual calendar that ends on Sept 2, the day of Nanda Ashtami. Rajeshwari Devi and Vivek Singh, selected a year in advance by the local panchayat, have taken on the responsibilities of priesthood for this cycle.
Devi, a resident of Bharki village and aged above 55 as required, is in charge of floral arrangements, preparing tulsi garlands, and cooking prasada for the devotees.
Singh, from neighbouring Baintha village, leads the main aarti and prayers. Both remain within the temple premises throughout the 45-day period.
No official record traces the exact origins of this practice in Phulanarayan. But for the communities of Bharki and Baintha, it simply continues — an annual partnership shaped not by political declarations but by quiet repetition. There is no spectacle or assertion of modernity here.
Just a garland of tulsi, handed to a woman, who steps without hesitation into a role still forbidden to many others.
"It is an honour for a woman to be given the key responsibility. As the announcement is made in advance, we do not have any problem," said Devi, seated beside baskets of fresh tulsi and wildflowers. Chandra Mohan Panwar, a local who has observed the tradition for over five decades, added, "This is something passed down from the time of our forefathers.
Each priest has different but essential tasks."
The temple's elevation — close to 3,000 metres above sea level — only adds to its isolation. The approach road from Helang to Kalpeshwar stretches for 13 km and is in utter disrepair. From Kalpeshwar, a steep 4 km trek through deodar and oak forest is required to reach Phulanarayan. Unlike Kalpeshwar Mahadev — a cave shrine nearby that is part of the Panch Kedar circuit and is now accessible year-round with a road reaching within 300 metres — the Phulanarayan temple remains disconnected from motorable routes and entirely off-grid.
Savita Devi, the president of the Mahila Mangal Dal of Bharki village, said, "The road from Helang to Urgam village is in poor condition. We demand that the construction of this road be prioritised, as it could boost pilgrimage and tourism activities here." She added that many travellers visit, but there are no facilities for them. Another resident of the same village, Govind Devi, said, "Although our village is quite behind in terms of development, we are ahead in social support and harmony.
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Urgam valley itself is steeped in spiritual significance. In addition to Kalpeshwar Mahadev, it hosts several ancient shrines: Dhyan Badri, Urva Rishi, and Bansi Narayan. The last, an 8th-century shrine dedicated to Lord Krishna situated around 3,600 metres, opens only once a year on Raksha Bandhan. On that day, women from nearby villages tie rakhis directly onto the deity — another rare practice that underscores the valley's unusual spiritual rhythms.
Brijesh Sati, general secretary of Char Dham Teerth Purohit Mahapanchayat, told TOI, "Right from parliament to the streets, we keep talking about gender equality. This temple, in one of the most difficult terrains, has shown what it looks like in practice." He added that Phulanarayan may well be the only Vishnu temple in India where a female priest serves alongside a male counterpart in full religious capacity.