Brisbane's best places to eat and drink

The Age

11 hours ago

Happy Boy
A modern institution a short walk from James Street
Brothers Cameron and Jordan Votan channelled their childhood love of the humble suburban Chinese restaurant to create this rambunctious, keenly priced eatery, which packs out with diners seven nights a week. But what looks simple is, in fact, sophisticated: the menu draws its inspiration from all corners of China, and is matched by a brilliant wine list that presents some of Australia's best small growers. The restaurant's neighbouring sister venues – Snack Man and Petite – are also essential. All are just a short stroll from hip James Street.
Under fairy-lit trees, East Street, Fortitude Valley. Phone: [phone]. See happyboy.com.au
Agnes
A wood-fired star in a heritage-listed warehouse
Brisbane's best restaurant? Take a straw poll of local diners and most will tell you it's Agnes. Wood-fired dining is everywhere now but rarely this considered or precise, chef-owner Ben Williamson and head chef Ryan Carlson tapping the best local, seasonal produce and transforming it over a dramatic open hearth. The heritage-listed setting in a late 19th-century warehouse accounts for the rest of the charm. If you dine at just one Brisbane restaurant, make it Agnes.
22 Agnes Street, Fortitude Valley. Phone: [phone]. See
Essa
A James Street local's pick
A hidden, low-key antidote to the surrounding glamour of James Street, Essa is where those in the know go for their midweek date nights. Chef Phil Marchant is a master at getting out of the way of his seasonal produce – you might eat wood-fired bugs with bay leaf butter and sea herbs, or barbecue spatchcock chicken with mortadella and beluga lentils. Most will chase a table in the moodily detailed dining room, but at the counter opposite the wood fire, watching the chefs in action, is the regulars' tip. Match it with a drink either before or after at neighbouring Nixon Room.
181 Robertson Street, Fortitude Valley. Phone: [phone]. See
Greca
Generous, fast-paced Greek food on the river
Brisbane's busiest restaurant? Greca is in with a decent shout. It doesn't matter when you visit, always book ahead. Homey, fast-paced Greek food – think luscious saganaki, oven-baked lamb shoulder and whole barbecue trout – is given a contemporary touch-up in this lively taverna-style eatery at Howard Smith Wharves. Where to sit? On the deck overlooking the river is best, with prime views of the city's financial district. The Barthelmes Group's neighbouring sister venue, Yoko, is excellent also.
Howard Smith Wharf Precinct, 3/5 Boundary Street, Brisbane. Phone: [phone]. See greca.com.au
Stanley
Elevated Cantonese from a top chef
The king of Brisbane's Cantonese restaurants, Stanley occupies the heritage-listed former Water Police headquarters at buzzy Howard Smith Wharves. Star chef Louis Tikaram taps his local roots to present exceptional seasonal produce cooked with vibrant Cantonese flavours. You might order soy-poached chicken with Cantonese five spice roast duck, or wok-tossed typhoon shelter mud crab. Hit the restaurant early in the evening to catch the best of the riverside sunset, before heading upstairs for knockoffs at Stans, its vinyl-spinning, cocktail-slinging sister bar.
5 Boundary Street, Brisbane City. Phone: [phone]. See
Coffee Anthology
The yardstick for Brisbane specialty coffee
Rated as the eighth-best coffee shop in the world, Coffee Anthology's Adam Wang has built his reputation on a laser-focused eye for detail when presenting the best roasters from around the country. Like any coffee spot worth its weight in beans, the brew is available as espresso, filter or batch. Anthology shares its smart city digs behind a refurbished heritage facade with two sister venues: grab a flaky croissant from The Whisk and takeaway your coffee to nearby City Botanic Gardens, or settle in at Fika for one of the best brunches in the CBD.
155 Charlotte Street, Brisbane City. See intersectionfd.com.au
Baja
A lively frontrunner for the city's best Mexican
Australia's evolution of Mexican cuisine into something more authentic took a moment to reach Brisbane, but owner-operator Daniel Quinn took the initiative with this freewheeling, brightly detailed restaurant. The food is all braised brisket and carnitas tacos, reef fish aguachile, and charred and pickled sweet corn, the drinks anchored by a list of tequila and mezcal mostly sourced from smaller, independent agave farms in Mexico. The perfect starting point for a night out in party precinct Fortitude Valley.
211 Brunswick Street, Fortitude Valley. Phone: [phone]. See
Exhibition
Essential omakase in a subterranean CBD space
Tim Scott moved on from the acclaimed Joy (also fabulous, if you can nab a booking) to open this precise, Japanese influenced restaurant in the heart of the CBD. Head down the stairs into a moody, subterranean bolthole as Scott channels his vivid creativity into an experience designed to showcase the best local produce (the restaurant's co-owner is Michael Nguyen of Thai Hoa Grocer – one of the best suppliers of fresh produce in the city). A must-do, particularly when combined with a cocktail from natty Dr Gimlette upstairs.
Milquetoast
Brilliant wines and British food in a rumpus room-like space
Find the moody laneway opposite the newly opened InterContinental Hotel on Elizabeth Street and you've found Milquetoast, which occupies an old garage behind a roller door. Billed as a wine bar first, Milquetoast co-owner James Horsfall has compiled a 70(ish)-bottle list that focuses on small producers, while venue manager Aidan Perkins manages a cocktail list that focuses on higher end spirits. For food, chef Jack Burgess cooks a surprisingly innovative menu that drills down on a revitalised interest in British food. Treat this as a two-hander with rock bar Alice, across the laneway.
Laneway/199 Elizabeth Street, Brisbane. Phone: [phone]. See milquetoastwinebar.com.au
RDA
Peerless French technique meets Australian produce
Chef-patron Dan Arnold (RDA is short for Restaurant Dan Arnold) has taken years of training in Gallic kitchens and applied them to local produce presented over either a three-course, five-course or 'carte blanche' (chef's selection) menu. It's often breathtaking stuff that will reward seasoned diners, but is just as appealing to those on a date night. Head to Arnold's La Cache a Vin in Spring Hill if you're chasing something more provincial in style.
10/959 Ann Street, Fortitude Valley. Phone: [phone]. See
Rothwell's
Trans-Atlantic dining in sumptuous digs
Inspired by restaurants such as The Wolseley in London, and Musso & Frank Grill in Los Angeles, Rothwell's is a favourite among the power lunchers from the nearby financial district, but at night dims the lights to welcome occasion diners drawn by chef Ben Russell's (formerly Aria Brisbane) European-inspired menu. The heritage space, with its sumptuous booths and reams of marble, is the perfect place to celebrate over generous pastas and meat dishes, while knocking back a few martinis (served with a sidecar on ice). Co-owner Dan Clark also operates 1889 Enoteca in Woolloongabba if you're after Roman comfort food accompanied by an award-winning wine list.
Florence
A picture-perfect excuse to explore Brisbane's bucolic suburbs
Florence occupies an old weatherboard shopfront in bucolic Camp Hill, about 10 minutes from the city. Generous breakfasts and brunches in the cafe's light-filled dining room are the go here, but it's worth visiting just for a coffee before hitting up nearby Camp Hill Antique Centre for something to take home with you.
54 Martha Street, Camp Hill. Phone: [phone]. See florence-cafe.com
Naldham House Brasserie
A slick linchpin in a heritage dining precinct
From Dap & Co (Andrew Baturo, Denis Sheahan and Splendour in the Grass creator Paul Piticco) comes this heritage-listed diner, that has hatted chef Doug Kyte (formerly Grill Americano in Melbourne) in the kitchen. Expect a menu of elevated Euro-inspired comfort food in a dining room decked out in a kaleidoscope of patterns from crack designer Anna Spiro. The linchpin in a three-level mini dining precinct, and upstairs you'll find cocktail bar Club Felix and The Fifty Six, a brilliant new Cantonese restaurant.