Continuing Excellence at Robert Mondavi Winery
He probably didn't realize it at the time, but when Robert Mondavi opened his eponymous winery in Oakville in 1966, he was ushering in a renaissance of Napa Valley glory. This was the first winery of any size to open in Napa Valley since the end of Prohibition in 1933, and Mondavi hired Cliff May to build a striking mission-style edifice that was architecturally sleek and unforgettable.
That was, by itself, an historic moment, but it was Mondavi's philosophy of producing wines of the highest quality, offerings modeled on the best wines of France, that marked a substantial turnaround for Napa Valley. Yes, there were world class wines made before this, but soon after Mondavi established his marque, there were multiple wineries that opened in Napa Valley which elevated the status of the valley; these wineries included such now-famous names as Sterling, Freemark Abbey, Clos du Val, Shafer, Stag's Leap Wine Cellars and dozens of others.
Mondavi's wines, especially his Reserve Cabernet Sauvignons, were rated as among the very best in Napa Valley and all of California. The excitement for these wines inspired other producers to make the best wines possible, and for several years, tastings of Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignons compared to classified growths of Bordeaux were held, with Mondavi's wines rating favorably. Other producers organized these tastings as well; Napa Valley, if anyone doubted, was a source for world class wines.
Arch & Tower - Tasting room of Robert Mondavi Winery overlooking the Napa River Photo by Adam Potts
Flash forward several decades; as you can imagine, changes were plentiful in Napa Valley in general and for Mondavi in particular; due to a number of conditions; Mondavi sold his winery to Constellation Brands, a large marketer of wine, beer and spirits; Mr. Mondavi passed away in 2008. These two events lead to much speculation that things would be vastly different, with quality being sacrificed.
I'm happy to report that Robert Mondavi Winery is doing quite well these days, thank you, with Director of Winemaking Kurtis Ogasawara overseeing production; under his watch, the top wines - Cabernet Sauvignon and Fumé Blanc, especially the reserve bottlings from the historic To Kalon vineyard directly behind the winery in Oakville - are glorious representations of this site, and certainly would make Robert Mondavi himself very proud.
Kurtis Ogasawara, Director of Winemaking, Robert Mondavi Winery Copyright Chris Leschinsky 2019
I asked Ogasawara what makes Oakville and especially To Kalon vineyard such an ideal home for Cabernet Sauvignon. 'Oakville's location in Napa Valley, roughly halfway up the valley, makes it a great location for growing Cabernet Sauvignon,' he explains. 'We get enough heat during the day to achieve full ripeness but also receive the influence of the morning fog which helps maintain freshness in our wines. To Kalon Vineyard sits on an alluvial fan on the western side of Oakville. The soils are well draining and encourage stress on the vines that help produce concentrated and intense grapes.
'For our wines, Oakville offers a combination of black and dark red fruit with dried herbs layered in. They have a muscular structure with plenty of tannins that can be extracted in a way that shows finesse and elegance.'
Regarding Fumé Blanc, the name Mr. Mondavi used for his examples of Sauvignon Blanc, and the name still used today for the winery's finest examples from To Kalon and other sites in Napa Valley, Ogasawara remarks, 'It's important to create wines that speak to the vineyard they're from. We walk and taste grapes leading up to harvest to understand what the vintage is offering. We pick the grapes at the ideal point where intensity, freshness, and concentration collide. We like our Fumé Blanc to show a balance of fruit intensity and herbs. Each block shows a different personality and it's our job to capture that and let it shine in the glass.'
Here are my notes on recent and current offerings of Sauvignon Blanc, Fumé Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon from Robert Mondavi Winery. (I will review the winery's examples of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir in the near future).
Sauvignon Blanc Stags Leap District 2023 (Stags Leap District, Napa Valley) - Bright, medium yellow; aromas of melon, freshly cut grass and spearmint. Medium-bodied, with lovely freshness, very good acidity, textbook varietal purity and good persistence. The finish is clean, refreshing and very appealing. Enjoy over the next 3-5 years. (91)
Fumé Blanc The Estates 2021 (Oakville, Napa Valley) - A blend of 87% Sauvignon Blanc and 13% Semillon; the fruit is from a younger block and an older block in the Oakville estate. Bright, medium yellow; lovely aromas of chervil, tarragon, melon and thyme. Medium-full, with an elegant entry on the palate. There is lively, slightly tangy acidity, a rich, clean finish with notes of ginger and white pepper, and outstanding harmony. Displaying outstanding varietal purity and typicity, this is a product of superb fruit from a classic vintage backed by minimal winemaking interference; the result is striking with a definite nod to white Bordeaux. Enjoy over the next 5-7 years. (94)
Fumé Blanc The Estates 2022 (Oakville, Napa Valley) - A blend of 87% Sauvignon Blanc and 13% Semillon, all from Oakville vineyards. Bright, medium-deep yellow; enticing aromas of mango, Anjou pear, orange rose and a hint of pine. Medium-full, with excellent ripeness. There is noteworthy texture along with outstanding varietal purity. There is excellent persistence, very good acidity and significant length in the finish, which offers delicate notes of grapefruit, melon and a hint of basil. Wonderful complexity, this is very well made and is quite stylish. Enjoy with Oriental cuisine (sweet and sour pork would be ideal) over the next 5-7 years. (93)
Fumé Blanc To Kalon Vineyard 'The Reserve' 2022 (Oakville, Napa Valley) - A blend of 95% Sauvignon Blanc and 5% Semillon; the Sauvignon Blanc is from the Monastery Block and the V Block of To-Kalon. Bright, medium yellow; aromas of basil, broom, freshly cut grass and a hint of tarragon. Medium-full, with bright fruit of impressive ripeness, very good acidity and excellent persistence; there are distinct notes of white spice and chervil in the finish. This has excellent varietal character and would be best paired with strongly flavored shellfish. This is a bit tightly wound now, so time will round out the wine and let it display great harmony. Peak in 3-6 years. (92)
Fumé Blanc To Kalon Vineyard 'The Reserve' 2021 (Oakville, Napa Valley) - Bright, medium yellow; textbook varietal aromas of chervil, basil, yellow peppers and hints of gooseberry and lime. Medium-full, with impressive depth of fruit, very good acidity and outstanding persistence. Excellent typicity and a beautiful expression of To Kalon Fumé Blanc. Enjoy over the next five to eight years, although this may drink well in 10-12 years. Brilliant wine! (95) As this is not the current release, it may be difficult to find, but if you want to experience one of the finest releases of Sauvignon Blanc from Napa Valley over the past few years, do what you can to find a bottle.
Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 (Napa Valley) - A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (91%), Petit Verdot (5%), Cabernet Franc (3%), Malbec (1%); the fruit is sourced from several Napa Valley districts including Oakville, Stags Leap District, Oak Knoll and Rutherford. Bright, medium deep purple; aromas of black currant, black cherry, mint and black poppy. Medium-bodied, there is very good typicity, well-integrated wood notes, good acidity and appropriate acidity. Nicely balanced, the wine can be enjoyed with most red meats tonight or over the next 3-5 years. A nice value for a Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon at $55. (90)
Cabernet Sauvignon The Estates Oakville (Oakville, Napa Valley) - A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (83%), Cabernet Franc (11%), Petit Verdot (2.5%), Merlot (2%) and Malbec (1.5%); most of the grapes come from the To Kalon Vineyard in Oakville behind the winery. Bright, medium deep purple; aromas of black currant, black plum and hints of mace, peppercorn and violet. Medium-full, with excellent ripeness, good acidity, medium-full tannins that are nicely balanced, evident oak notes and very good persistence. This is an impressive wine that is an excellent example of Oakville terroir. Give this another 2-3 years to round out and display greater complexity. Peak in 12-15 years. (92)
Cabernet Sauvignon To Kalon Vineyard 'The Reserve' 2021 (Oakville, Napa Valley) - A blend of 94% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot. Bright, medium purple; rich aromas of black currant, black licorice, peppercorn, mocha and graphite. Medium-full, with excellent concentration, very good acidity, well- integrated wood notes, rich tannins and significant persistence. From the outstanding 2021 Napa Valley vintage, there is the stuffing and structure to last for at least 20 years, perhaps even as long as 30 years. A wonderful sense of To Kalon terroir with definite mineral and savory notes in the finish. An exceptional wine that calls to mind the Robert Mondavi Reserve Cabernet Sauvignons of the late 1960s and early 1970s. (96)
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