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Who was Sacagawea? Here's the real story of her critical role in U.S. exploration

Who was Sacagawea? Here's the real story of her critical role in U.S. exploration

Often remembered merely for guiding Lewis and Clark, Sacagawea's story is far more complex. Discover the deeper story behind the life of this Shoshone woman—beyond the expedition. Explorer Sacagawea stares into the distance while Jean Baptiste Charbonneau sleeps soundly on her back. She was vital to the Lewis and Clark Expedition after the Louisiana Purchase. Photograph by ZUMA Press, Inc, Alamy Stock Photo
Of all the figures that emerged from the American West, none may be so wrapped in mythology as Sacagawea. When she joined Meriwether Lewis and William Clark's infamous expedition west, she was just a teenager and a new mother. However, Sacagawea emerged as an icon of the New World.
Today, her name is synonymous with a period characterized by rapid westward expansion at the great expense of the Tribal Nations who stewarded the land since time immemorial. Though her brief life burns brightly in the American consciousness, here's what is known about the young Native American woman who accompanied the famed explorers on the journey that would change America forever. Who was Sacagawea?
It's estimated that Sacagawea was born in the late 1780s, however, not much is known of her early life before she met Lewis and Clark at age 16.
As a citizen of the Lemhi Shoshone Tribe, Sacagawea would have grown up in what is now Idaho, along the Salmon River. In Sacagawea: A Biography, historian and author April Summitt writes that the Lemhi Shoshone people subsisted on the salmon abundant in its waters. As a young woman, she would have contributed to the daily tasks essential for survival: preparing and drying fish, curing animal skins, harvesting wild berries, seeds and root vegetables, and even building shelter.
Sacagawea's life changed forever when she was abducted at around 10 years old. As the Lemhi Shoshone were camped near what is now Three Forks, Montana, the Hidatsa Tribe attacked. The conflict culminated in the capture of a group of young Shoshone women, including Sacagawea. The captives were taken to the Hidatsa villages near what is now Bismarck, North Dakota.
Sacagawea lived as a captive of the Hidatsa for three years until she married a 38-year-old French Canadian fur trader, Toussaint Charbonneau, who lived among the tribe. Sacagawea's forced marriage
Charbonneau was already married to another Shoshone woman when he took Sacagawea as his wife in 1804. Historical accounts offer a dark glimpse of the man with whom Sacagawea would spend much of her young life. In 1795 while working for fur trading business, North West Company, he was discovered raping a young Indian woman, according to journal's kept by the company's clerk.
Not much is known about how their marriage came to be. However, we do know that Sacagawea had little agency over her fate. A 2002 Los Angeles Times article reported that Charbonneau "won" her as his wife in a gambling bet. Others say he bought her in exchange for goods. In Sacagawea: A Biography, historian and author April Summitt writes that Charbonneau likely exchanged horses or other goods with the Hidatsa for Sacagawea's hand.
Others point to the union as a means of forging an alliance between Native communities and settlers.
Historically, matrimony between Native women and a European man was not one of romance. For European men in the fur trade, marrying into a Tribal Nation meant gaining insider status in what could otherwise be a hostile relationship. A Native wife could interpret for their husbands and tribes, forge deals and alliances, and open access to trade routes. For tribes, those alliances might keep them safe from destruction at the hands of colonizers or offer political mobility in a swiftly changing world.
Debra Magpie Earling, a member of the Bitterroot Salish tribe and author of The Lost Journals of Sacagawea, a fictionalized account of Sacagawea's life based on historical documents, emphasizes that the reality of the arraignment was likely more sinister.
'There are some historians who claim that Sacagawea was sold, that Charbonneau was trying to sell Sacagawea to other men,' Earling said. The Louisiana Purchase's influence on Indigenous life
Sacagawea's life took place against the backdrop of a quickly evolving geopolitical landscape brought on by the Louisiana Purchase in 1803. The largest land deal in American history, the United States doubled in size when it purchased 820,000 square miles from France—a swath of land that would become 15 states spanning from Louisiana to Montana.
The Louisiana Purchase also opened the West to a deluge of settlers spurred on by Manifest Destiny—the belief that it was their divine right to expand America beyond the vein of the Mississippi River. Settlers and indigenous tribe's clashed, the former fought for what they thought was divinely theirs, and the latter held their ground to protect their homeland and lifeways.
In just a few decades, the Native tribes that stewarded western land would be forced to the confines of reservations created by the U.S. government and subject to sanctimoniously cruel campaigns to rid the country of their peoples and memory. The Indian Removal Act of 1830 saw the U.S. military forcefully marching Native people great distances away from their homelands, resulting in the deaths of thousands by starvation, disease, and exposure.
(Read more on how North America's Native nations are reasserting their sovereignty.)
As settlers displaced Native communities, Sacagawea's fortunes changed. In November 1804, while she was six months pregnant with her first child, Lewis and Clark arrived at the Hidasta settlement to wait out the winter.
President Thomas Jefferson had commissioned the two men to lead an expedition into America's vast new territory acquired in the Louisiana Purchase. The expedition aimed to survey the land, forge relationships with various tribes, and collect information about new species of plants and animals.
Lewis and Clark recruited Charbonneau to their expedition, dubbed The Corps of Discovery, for his ability to speak French and some Hidatsa. The journey would span from the northern plains of modern-day North Dakota, through the Rocky Mountains and to the Pacific Ocean.
The fur trader's young wife quickly piqued their interest. Sacagawea was fluent in both Hidasta and Shoshone, an indispensable asset to a team of explorers venturing into Native American territories where language barriers could impede relations and even lead to deadly violence. Sacagawea, a member of the Lewis and Clark Expedition, is retrieving supplies after one of the boats keeled over. Sacagawea was vital to the expedition as she translated and guided the group from the Mississippi River to the Pacific Coast. Painting by Rob Wood, Wood Ronsaville Harlin, Inc. USA, Bridgeman Images Sacagawea's influence in the Lewis and Clark expedition
On April 7, 1805, two months after giving birth to her son Jean Baptiste Charbonneau, Sacagawea, her new baby, and her husband began the journey west with Lewis and Clark. She was the youngest member and only woman in the group, carrying her baby on a cradleboard on her back, in her culture's tradition.
While Lewis and Clark's journals mention Sacagawea less than two dozen times, many entries contain clues that may tell us what her life was like on the journey.
In an entry on August 14, 1805, Clark wrote that Charbonneau struck her during dinner, for which he was reprimanded. At times, she and her baby slept in Lewis and Clark's tent.
A month into the journey, the explorers were canoeing down a tributary of the Missouri River when the boats capsized, spilling people and supplies into the roaring waters. Sacagawea remained calm while gathering essential papers, books, instruments, medicines, and provisions that would have otherwise been lost to the river. The act inspired Lewis and Clark to name the river after her.
Sacagawea's language skills proved essential when it came time for the expedition to negotiate the purchase of horses from a group of Shoshone near the Lemhi Pass in modern-day Idaho. While discussing the purchase with the group's leader, she discovered it was, in fact, her brother, Cameahwait. Clark wrote in his journal that the reunion was clearly emotional, and the typically stoic young Shoshone woman expressed joy upon meeting her long-lost brother.
Sacagawea used knowledge culled from her Native culture to the benefit of the group, harvesting edible plants for food and medicinal purposes and making clothing and footwear. She also read the landmarks in the vast landscape, advising the party on the best route to return east.
Her contributions elevated her status in the group. By the time the voyage reached the Pacific Coast in November 1805, she was allowed agency that was otherwise not afforded to a woman. The captains allowed her to join a scouting party to see the remains of a whale beached on the shore and Clark's journals note that she even had a vote when it came time to decide where to set up camp to wait out the winter.
While the captains ultimately chose not to settle in the area she suggested—where wapato, or root vegetables, were plentiful—casting her vote as a lone woman among men would later inspire the women's suffrage movement to adopt her as a symbol.
Upon returning to the Hidatsa settlement in August 1806, Charbonneau was paid $500.33 and 320 acres of land for his role in the expedition. Sacagawea received no compensation from Lewis and Clark.
Little is known about Sacagawea's life after the expedition.
In 1811, Sacagawea and Charbonneau took Clark up on his offer to oversee their son's education in St. Louis, after the explorer was appointed the superintendent of Indian Affairs. Meanwhile, the couple worked for the Missouri Fur Company, and it's believed Sacagawea gave birth to a girl named Lisette in 1812.
Records point to Sacagawea's death from illness later that year; but that might not be the end of her story. In 1925, the U.S. government directed Sioux physician Charles Eastman to seek out where Sacagawea was buried so a monument could be erected in her honor. After interviewing tribes in North Dakota and Wyoming, he came to believe that she left Charbonneau to marry into the Comanche tribe, and lived a long life well into her 80s, passing away in 1884. Sacagawea's legacy in the United States
Today, Sacagawea's image is immortalized on the U.S. Golden Dollar coin, with her face peering over her shoulder as her baby is nestled safely against her back. First issued in the year 2000, the coin sought to honor her contributions to American history and was created in collaboration with Native American communities. The image seeks to remind us of the tenacity of the young Native woman as an explorer in her own right, and her strength as a mother.
From the waters from which she saved crucial records and supplies to Sacagawea Peak in Oregon, her impact on the country is remembered. An effigy in Salmon, Idaho—the homeland of her people—also stands in her honor.
"I think America has told itself this tale, made this myth of this young Indian woman who came along and helped the explorers as a false justification for the stealing of native lands," Earling said. "She isn't mentioned very much [in Lewis and Clark's journals], but her presence is so powerful.'
As Clark noted in a letter after the expedition, Sacagawea deserved "a greater reward for her attention and services ... than we had in our power to give her."
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10 must-do experiences for your next trip to Seattle
10 must-do experiences for your next trip to Seattle

National Geographic

time16 hours ago

  • National Geographic

10 must-do experiences for your next trip to Seattle

Known for its rainy weather and as the birthplace of Starbucks, Seattle offers far more than these well-worn reputations. From wandering the city's mysterious underground to immersing yourself in the vibrant glass art scene or joining the roar of crowds at a local sports game, these 10 experiences invite you to uncover what truly defines Seattle. Watch the fish fly at Pike Place Market in Seattle. In addition to fishmongers, the farmers' market also sells jewelry, art, baked goods, books, flowers, and more. Photograph by Peter Horree / Alamy Stock Photo Shop at Pike Place Market Since 1907, the flying fish and buskers have injected Pike Place Market with an energetic vibe that represents Seattle's community spirit. You'll brush shoulders with chefs picking up seafood for their restaurants' dinner crowd, local entrepreneurs selling everything from jewelry to ceramicware, and residents grabbing lunch from generational vendors serving everything from piroshkis to chowder. 'Many locals are deeply engaged with Pike Place Market and genuinely shop there,' says Heather Refvem, director of operations at Savor Seattle, which offers tours centered around the market. If you're looking to avoid the crowds, Refvem has one tip: 'I suggest visiting around 8 a.m., when the vendors are just setting up. It's the most peaceful and special time to experience the market.' (Meet the famous fish throwers of Seattle's Pike Place Market) Visit a popular pop culture museum The Museum of Pop Culture's (MOPOP) metallic exterior in hues of fuchsia, silver, and gold makes it hard to miss. Inside, the 140,000-square-foot space celebrates Seattle's creative legacy as the birthplace of grunge and a hub for indie game design and tech innovation. The Seattle Monorail, Seattle Space Needle, and Museum of Pop Culture (MOPOP) are all popular attractions located within the Seattle Center area of the city. Photograph by Eric Carr / Alamy Stock Photo Start with 'Massive: The Power of Pop Culture,' an exhibition developed as an introduction to MOPOP itself. 'It explores what pop culture is, how it constantly evolves, why it's worth preserving and interpreting, and how MOPOP does that work. It's the perfect first stop for understanding both the museum and the wider cultural world we're all part of,' says Jacob McMurray, chief collections and exhibitions officer. Don't miss the Sound Lab, where you can play drums and electric guitars, mix tracks, and record your own music like a pro. Try the Seattle's fresh seafood Seattle's celebrated seafood scene nods to tradition, like alder-smoked salmon rooted in Indigenous practices, while also pushing boundaries as chefs blend local catch with global flavors. Whether you're perched at the rustic counter at Pike Place Chowder, slurping oysters at James Beard–nominated The Walrus & the Carpenter, or dining with a view of Lake Union and the Cascade Range at Canlis, one thing stays constant: the freshness. Local icons like Dungeness crab, geoduck, and black cod remind you you're squarely in Pacific Northwest waters. (The essential guid to visiting Seattle) First-time visitors to Seattle should consider adding the Chihuly Garden and Glass to their itinerary. Colorful glass artworks created by American glass artist Dale Chihuly fill the sculpture garden. Photograph by Mara Brandl via Stock Photo Delve into the glass art scene Seattle's status as a global glass art hub owes much to Dale Chihuly, whose bold installations inspired a local community of glass artists who continue to shape the medium in unexpected ways Though Seattle's home to several glass art galleries and studios, Paula Stokes, a local arts consultant and artist working primarily in glass and printmaking, says Chihuly Garden and Glass is essential viewing. 'Dale Chihuly's work in glass has pushed the boundaries of traditional glassmaking into the realm of fine arts and architecture. This venue is the perfect entry point into Seattle's glass art culture as it demonstrates his overarching vision and its evolution from simple objects to complex installations in a way that is visually engaging, delightful, and welcoming to all.' Save time for the light-filled Glasshouse, a showstopper that's both functional and artistic. 'The red and yellow Persian chandelier soars overhead in undulating, dynamic curves, suspended in space,' says Stokes. Tour Seattle's underground Beneath Pioneer Square, Seattle's oldest neighborhood and original downtown, lies a hidden layer of storefronts and passageways that once made up the city's original street level. 'It turns out that building at sea level is a bad idea. The fire gave the city planners an opportunity for a reset,' says Terrilyn Johnson, co-founder of Beneath the Streets, which offers walking tours of Seattle's underground. She's referring to the Great Fire of 1889, which destroyed 25 blocks. Planners rebuilt the city by raising the streets, leaving the old city underground. Through guided tours, you can learn about some of the quirky engineering features that were adopted during the rebuild, such as vault lights and hollow sidewalks. 'From early on, resilience and ingenuity have been a part of the city's history,' says Johnson. (The 9 best hotels in Seattle for every kind of traveler) Explore the hip Capitol Hill neighborhood Packed with vintage shops, indie record stores, buzzing bars, and music venues, this neighborhood just east of downtown is where creativity and self-expression thrive. Two deeply rooted, overlapping communities—artists and Seattle's queer and trans communities—have shaped Capitol Hill's unmistakable character. 'Everywhere you go, you can see evidence of this, from one of the nation's oldest lesbian bars, the Wildrose, to longtime music venues like Neumos, as well as murals, writers' cafes, street art, a bronze sculpture of Jimi Hendrix, and rainbow crosswalks that dot the landscape across Capitol Hill,' says Egan Orion, executive director of Seattle PrideFest. To get a feel for the heart of Seattle's LGBTQ+ community, he recommends a walk down Broadway. 'Look up at the light poles at a myriad of flags that represent our community, then stroll through Cal Anderson Park, named after the state's first openly gay representative,' Orion says of one of the city's main gathering spots for PrideFest. Taste a locally-made craft brew Situated near the Yakima Valley, which produces over 70 percent of the country's hops, Seattle has ready access to prized varieties like Citra, Mosaic, and Centennial, resulting in exceptionally fresh and flavorful beer. Add in a community of brewers experimenting with locally foraged ingredients and collabs with distilleries and coffee roasters, Seattle's craft beer scene is both creative and deeply rooted in place. Beer lovers will find more than 70 breweries across the city, primarily clustered in Ballard, Fremont, and SoDo. 'Every neighborhood in Seattle has a unique feel, and the breweries that exist in those neighborhoods reflect that spirit,' says Robyn Schumacher, co-owner and brewer at Stoup Brewing. 'I think of our breweries as hyper-local community centers where Seattleites hang out for just about every life event you can imagine, big or small.' (7 of the best coffee shops in Seattle) Experience Seattle's game-day magic With five major men's pro teams, two women's pro teams, and a spirited college football program, there's a good chance you'll be in town during a high-stakes game or match. The stadiums themselves are part of the draw. Climate Pledge Arena, home to the WNBA's Seattle Storm and the NHL's Kraken, is the world's first zero-carbon certified arena. Over at Lumen Field, Seahawks fans bring the noise, while the Sounders (Major League Soccer) and Reign FC (National Women's Soccer League) rally equally electric crowds. At T-Mobile Park, you can catch a Mariners baseball game with views of the skyline and, on clear days, Mount Rainier at a distance. No game day is complete without sinking your teeth into a Seattle dog, a street food staple that takes a classic hot dog and levels it up with a slather of cream cheese and a heap of grilled onions for a savory-sweet combo. Enjoy a perfect day on a lake, beach, or island Seattleites take full advantage of the city's location because Puget Sound, Lake Washington, and Lake Union surround it. Catch a water taxi to Alki Beach, or hop the 35-minute ferry to Bainbridge Island, where the commute doubles as a scenic tour, with views of the downtown skyline and mountains. If you're up for a paddle, kayak past bobbing houseboats and floating homes on Lake Union, while seaplanes lift off overhead. Visit the nearby national parks The city's love of nature stretches far beyond its urban green spaces, as Seattle is also the ideal jumping-off point for two iconic national parks. Mount Rainier National Park sits less than a two-hour drive away, and in summer, its alpine meadows burst into color, and the 5.5-mile Skyline Trail delivers views of glaciers, jagged peaks, and wildflower-filled terrain. Olympic National Park is a bit farther, about a 2.5-hour drive from downtown Seattle, but it feels like three parks in one. Explore a rugged coastline lined with tidepools and sea stacks, lush moss-draped rainforests like the Hoh, and snow-dusted mountain ranges. Vivian Chung is a Vancouver-based freelance journalist who covers a wide range of lifestyle stories, including travel and outdoor adventure. Follow her on Instagram.

Headed to the Pacific Northwest? Here's a first timer's guide to visiting Seattle
Headed to the Pacific Northwest? Here's a first timer's guide to visiting Seattle

National Geographic

time16 hours ago

  • National Geographic

Headed to the Pacific Northwest? Here's a first timer's guide to visiting Seattle

Travelers visiting Seattle for the first time often think it will be all coffee and rain. Both are bountiful in this Pacific Northwest city tucked between Puget Sound and Lake Washington, but the Emerald City dazzles year-round with world-class museums and attractions, festivals galore, and countless ways to experience nature on water and on land. Best time to visit Seattle Spring: Laugh off the rain at Moisture Festival, a four week-long showcase of aerialists, acrobats, and odd surprises starting mid-March. In May, preview independent films during the two-week Seattle International Film Festival. Over Memorial Day weekend, the Northwest Folklife Festival convenes at Seattle Center for a free celebration of arts, culture, and heritage. Summer: In June, Seafair begins a 10 week-long city-wide party with fireworks, parades, hydroplane races, an air show, and other events. In July, the Seattle Art Fair fills Lumen Field with modern and contemporary art. Over Labor Day weekend, Seattle Center hosts Bumbershoot, a joyous end-of-summer music and arts festival. Fall: In September and October, harvests are in, summer crowds are out and it's the ideal time to visit the farmers, crafters and other vendors at the historic Pike Place Market. Seattle celebrates the glass arts in October during Refract: The Seattle Glass Experience. Winter: Head to Seattle's Chinatown-International District for Lunar New Year celebrations. February's Northwest Flower & Garden Show offers previews of spring. February is also Museum Month, when downtown hotel bookings include passes for half-off admission at many museums. In mid-March, join the 'bloom watch' for peak viewing of Yoshino cherry trees on the University of Washington quad. (10 must-do experiences for your next trip to Seattle) Key areas to explore in Seattle Downtown waterfront: Seattle's revitalized waterfront is a 20-acre walkable experience with art, parks, and viewing spots out to Elliot Bay and the surrounding mountain ranges. The Seattle Aquarium, Ye Olde Curiosity Shop, and the Great Wheel are among of the attractions here, but visitor can also go sightseeing on a ferry or an Argosy Cruise or head up to Pike Place Market on the terraced Overlook Walk. Seattle's waterfront features a Ferris wheel and Miners Landing, a building that houses restaurants, shops, and attractions, such as Wings Over Washington and The Crab Pot. Photograph by Wolfgang Kaehler / Alamy Stock Photo Seattleites head to the Saturday market on Western Avenue near Pike Place. Photograph by Ian Dagnall / Alamy Stock Photo Seattle Center: The 1962 World's Fair site is now a 74-acre urban park that's home to the 605-foot Space Needle, Chihuly Garden and Glass, the Museum of Pop Culture (MOPOP), a dancing fountain with its own DJ, and Seattle Center Festál, a rolling series of 25 free festivals celebrating the city's many cultural communities. The parks: Seattle has hundreds of parks in the city limits, including Volunteer Park in the Capitol Hill neighborhood, which is home to Volunteer Park Conservatory and the Seattle Asian Art Museum, and 300-acre Seward Park, which has both beaches and 120-acres of old growth forest. At Lake Union Park you'll find the Center for Wooden Boats, the Museum of History and Industry, and the NW Seaport's floating fleet of historic vessels. The water: On Lake Union, kayaks and paddleboards, electric boats, donut boats, and hot tub boats are available to rent. The Center for Wooden Boats rents sailboats and offers free one-hour rowboat rentals and free monthly public sails with volunteer skippers. Where to stay in Seattle The Edgewater Hotel: Seattle's only over-the water hotel is not only right on the downtown waterfront, it's also where The Beatles stayed during their 1964 U.S. tour, famously fishing from their hotel window. Poles and bait are no longer sold in the giftshop, but the views remain notable and the hotel is steps from the free Olympic Sculpture Park and a short walk to the Seattle Aquarium and other waterfront activities. Hotel Sorrento: Built in 1909, this hotel in Seattle's First Hill neighborhood take inspiration from the storied Hotel Excelsior Vittoria in Sorrento, Italy, and is rumored to be haunted by Alice B. Toklas, of hash brownie-recipe fame. The hotel's Fireside Room hosts Silent Reading Parties during which patrons read silently, but together, while listening to live music. Inn at the Market: A boutique charmer tucked inside historic Pike Place Market, this hideaway hotel is well-loved for its restaurants, including Café Campagne, its proximity to the waterfront and to the market's offerings and for its rooftop deck offering panoramic views of Elliott Bay. (The 9 best hotels in Seattle for every kind of traveler) Fishmongers at Pike Place Market sell fresh seafood, including salmon, halibut, tuna, clams, crab, cod, and rockfish. Photograph by Gabbro / Alamy Stock Photo Taste of Seattle Seafood reigns supreme in Seattle, with fresh salmon, oysters, crab, and halibut among the options to look for on local menus. Reliable places to indulge include Walrus and Carpenter in Ballard, Taylor Shellfish Oyster Bar(Pioneer Square, Capitol Hill, Queen Anne), Oyster Cellar (Pioneer Square), Half Shell (north end of Pike Place Market) and Local Tide in the Fremont neighborhood. (7 of the best coffee shops in Seattle) Getting around Seattle By public transportation: It's easy to get around bus, light rail, and streetcar. Plan your trip using King County Metro's Trip Planner tool and pay for single rides or day passes with the Transit Go app. By car: Traffic can be challenging in the urban core. But if you've got a rental, the city's map of street parking locations and parking facilities will be useful. Rideshare services and taxis are plentiful. Here's what you should know about visiting Seattle Weather: Don't let Seattle's bad weather rep scare you. Late fall and winter can be gray and rainy, but you're more likely to encounter a day of misty rain than one filled with downpours. Pack waterproof shoes and a light raincoat and you'll blend in with the locals. Summer may start late, but stretches from mid-June through October, with average temperatures ranging from the mid-60s to the mid-70s Fahrenheit in July and August. How to visit Seattle sustainably Seattle is serious about sustainability. You'll spot recycling and composting bins in restaurants and attractions. Compostable take-out containers and utensils are standard. The city banned plastic bags back in 2012, so tuck a tote into your suitcase. Transportation: Downtown is hilly, but very walkable. Sound Transit's Link light rail is electric powered. King Couty Metro's fleet is almost entirely hybrid or zero-emission vehicles. And there are plenty of e-scooters and e-bikes available for rent. Shopping: Explore neighborhoods via vintage and secondhand stores by shopping at Barn Owl Vintage Goods in Georgetown, Lucky Vintage outlets in Fremont, Ballard and the University District, and Two Big Blondes, the country's largest plus size consignment store, in the Central District. Harriet Baskas is a Seattle-based journalist who writes about museums, airports and travel. She's the author of 9 books, including . is a Seattle-based journalist who writes about museums, airports and travel. She's the author of 9 books, including 111 Places in Seattle That You Must Not Miss

This May Be The Most Unique National Park in the U.S.—and It Has Historic Bathhouses, Thermal Springs, and a Brewery
This May Be The Most Unique National Park in the U.S.—and It Has Historic Bathhouses, Thermal Springs, and a Brewery

Travel + Leisure

time7 days ago

  • Travel + Leisure

This May Be The Most Unique National Park in the U.S.—and It Has Historic Bathhouses, Thermal Springs, and a Brewery

Hot Springs National Park encompasses over 5,500 acres and includes downtown Hot Springs, Arkansas. There are 47 hot springs in the area, and you can soak in the healing waters at several bathhouses. Fill up your water bottle with fresh spring water at seven fill stations around the park. Enjoy a cold beer made with thermal hot spring water at Superior Bathhouse Brewery, the only brewery located within a national park. Hot Springs National Park is free to access. With ancient thermal springs, historic bathhouses, and mountain views, Hot Springs National Park is arguably one of the most interesting national parks in the country. It spans over 5,500 acres, is home to 47 hot springs, and includes parts of downtown Hot Springs, Arkansas, as well as forested hikes and scenic creeks. Originally Quapaw and Caddo land, the area has long been a place where travelers came to seek treatment for various ailments. Hot Springs became a part of the United States during the Louisiana Purchase in 1803, and it quickly became a popular resort town. The government decided to preserve it in 1820, long before the creation of Yellowstone, but it wasn't designated as an official national park until 1916. Hot Springs is the only national park with nonvolcanic geothermal springs, with over 700,000 gallons of water produced per day. The Victorian-era bathhouses that served visitors from the 1800s are still standing, and you can find them today in Bathhouse Row. 'The thing that most people should know about the national park is that it's one of the few urban national parks in the country,' says Coleman Gocio, a Hot Springs native and the owner of Hot Springs Bicycle Touring Co. 'As far as stuff to see, the spring water is amazing. A lot of people think that we're going to have big pools of springs to jump in, but they're piped off to jug fountains where you can taste the spring water.' Here's what you need to know before planning a trip to Hot Springs National Park. A sign for the Hot Springs National Park. Hot Springs National Park is free to visit, although some tours and activities require an admission fee. The park is also open year-round, but some points of interest, like the Hot Springs Mountain Tower, are closed between November and March. Unlike some of the parks out west, there is no outdoor bathing in the hot springs. If you want to have a soak, you'll need to book a reservation at a place like the Buckstaff Bathhouse or the Quapaw Bathhouse. You can, however, feel the heat of the thermal springs at The Display Spring behind the Maurice Bathhouse, the Hot Water Cascade at Arlington Lawn, and the Fordyce Fountains between the Fordyce and Maurice Bathhouses. Visitors gathered around a hot spring. In terms of weather, the best times to visit Hot Springs are in the spring and fall. 'Fall is one of my favorite times of the year around here because the temperature [and] weather is just phenomenal,' says Gocio. 'The mountain biking is incredible with our really stellar trail system.' But there's really no bad time to visit Hot Springs, and no matter what time you visit, there's likely something going on around town. The World Championship Running of the Tubs in June pays homage to Bathhouse Row with a Pinewood Derby-style race using modified bathtubs. The World's Shortest St. Patrick's Day Parade in May brings in celebrity guests for the merriment. The Hot Springs Documentary Film Festival in October is the oldest documentary film festival in North America. Hot Springs National Park is about 53 miles southwest of Little Rock's Clinton National Airport (LIT)—that's about an hour-long drive. Hot Springs Memorial Field Airport (HOT) has regional flights available on Southern Airways Express, but you will likely find more flight options out of Little Rock. Since Hot Springs National Park is in an urban area, you'll be able to find ride-hailing services such as Lyft and Uber. However, renting a car will be more convenient for exploring Hot Springs and the surrounding area. Guests entering a bathhouse located on Bathhouse Row. The most popular part of the Hot Springs experience is Bathhouse Row, where generations of travelers have come to 'take to the waters." The Fordyce Bathhouse is now a visitor center, with historic artifacts and incredible stained glass ceilings on display—if you want to learn more, you can also catch daily ranger tours of the facility. If it's a real soak you're after, the Quapaw and Buckstaff bathhouses are still in operation. The mineral-rich water that made Hot Springs famous can be found throughout the park, where visitors can fill up their personal containers. You'll even see people drive up with large jugs to take with them. These thermal springs can be found in seven locations, but the easiest and most popular one to access is the Hale and Maurice bathhouses. Hot Springs Bicycle Touring Co. even has a bike tour that visits the different springs and compares the water minerality. Several iterations of the Hot Springs Mountain Tower has stood in the park since 1877, but the current version was built in 1983 and is 216 feet tall. From the top, visitors can see over 140 square miles of the surrounding area, including the entire park and the Ouachita Mountains. You can reach the top by elevator, making it accessible to all. However, note that this attraction does charge an admission fee of $14 per person. A sign for the Hot Springs Mountain Trail. Hot Springs National Park has 26 miles of trails, so you have plenty of hiking routes to choose from, varying from 0.2 miles to 17 miles. For an easy stroll and hardly any grade, check out the Hot Springs Mountain Trail. At 1.7 miles, it follows the top of the mountain with scenic lookout points to stop for water and soak in the views. At 0.6 miles, the Peak Trail is short but with a slight grade. It's on the steep side, so step carefully, but you're rewarded when you reach the Hot Springs Mountain Tower, the best way to see the park from above. The longest trail in the national park, the Sunset Trail is 10 miles one way or can be done in a loop, ranging from 15 to 17 miles. It also reaches the highest point within the park, Music Mountain, at over 1,400 feet. A guest room at Lookout Point Lakeside Inn. Lookout Point Lakeside Inn Hot Springs National Park doesn't have a traditional 'lodge,' but that doesn't mean there aren't plenty of great places to stay. Want to stay in the hotel of choice of gangster Al Capone? You can do just that at The Arlington, where he had his own suite. The historic property, which opened in 1875, has 500 luxury rooms, multiple restaurants, and an on-site spa that has pools full of the local thermal waters. Live out your Schitt's Creek dreams at Dame's Fortune Cottage Court, a converted historic motel accented with vintage charm. Each of the eight pet-friendly rooms has a different design, and guests can enjoy nearby restaurants and wander the surrounding Bellaire Court Historic District. Gulpha Gorge Campground is the national park-run campground with 40 riverside spaces for tents and RVs. Reservations are required and can be booked six months in advance, starting at $34 per site. The campground also has accessible sites and trailhead access. While it's a short drive outside of town, Lookout Point Lakeside Inn is worth the trip and sits on the shores of Lake Hamilton, where guests can take out canoes and kayaks. There are stunning guest rooms with lake views and a daily breakfast is included in the nightly rate. Located in a 1913 doctor's office, The Waters Hot Springs reopened as a hotel in 2017 with 62 modern guest rooms. The hotel also has an on-site restaurant and a rooftop bar with the best views in town. An outdoor dining patio at Superior Bathhouse Brewery. Superior Bathhouse Brewery If you're camping, you might want to pick up groceries on your way into town. But Hot Springs has plenty of great restaurants if you don't want to bother. Located in a historic motor court, Best Cafe and Bar is open for breakfast and lunch, and highlights regional, local ingredients in its dishes. Start with the biscuits and gravy with a sunny-side-up egg, or the confit pork belly hash. A New York transplant brought his brick oven pies to Deluca's Pizza, arguably one of the best pizzerias in the states. The Sidetown (a Margherita-style pie) is one of the most popular selections, but the restaurant also has pasta and salads. The Pancake Shop is a Hot Springs classic, open since 1940. Of course, the pancakes are the big draw, including buttermilk and buckwheat flapjacks stuffed with fruit. The eatery also has its own blend of coffee and all the other breakfast favorites, such as oatmeal and omelettes. For traditional German fare, turn to Steinhaus Keller, which brings the Oktoberfest vibe year-round. Menu staples include spaetzle, goulash, schnitzel, and wurst platters, all of which can be paired with beer straight from the motherland. Founded in 2013, Superior Bathhouse Brewery is the only brewery located within a national park and sits in a historic bathhouse. It makes its beer using the thermal waters of the spring, and while you're enjoying your brew, you can also enjoy elevated pub fare, including pretzels, wings, and sandwiches.

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