Made in Italy under scrutiny: A call for transparency and credibility

Fashion United

4 days ago

"Made in Italy" has recently come under intense scrutiny, not only due to tariffs that continue to penalise many sectors despite recent trade agreements, but primarily because of persistent issues surrounding illegal labor exploitation. Companies are also grappling with significant difficulties in effectively monitoring their entire supply chains, encompassing both direct suppliers and sub-suppliers.
These incidents of exploitation, the latest of which involves the prestigious Loro Piana brand, consistently highlight a critical theme for FashionUnited: the paramount importance of transparency and clear communication. Businesses must sincerely, simply, and carefully explain what "Made in Italy" truly signifies and how its standards are upheld throughout the production process. Saying "Made in Italy" without concrete explanation is no longer enough
Simply stating that a product is "Made in Italy" without a concrete explanation is no longer sufficient to entice customers. This is particularly true in light of revelations concerning exploitation and unsafe working conditions, even involving highly prestigious brands. The knowledge that a designer handbag or luxury garment, retailing for thousands of euros, is sometimes paid to the supplier for a mere few tens of euros, as uncovered by various investigations, exacerbates the problem and alienates consumers from designer labels.
Less than a week ago, Giusy Bettoni, founder and CEO of CLASS, an international eco-hub based in Milan, spoke with FashionUnited. She warned that claiming to be "Made in Italy" without a precise, clear, simple, concrete, and concise explanation of the concept is unhelpful, benefiting neither fashion nor the supply chain.
A few months prior, Renzo Rosso, owner of OTB, the holding company behind brands such as Diesel, Jil Sander, Maison Margiela, Marni, and Viktor&Rolf, also urged brands to speak up. He encouraged them to explain and demonstrate what "Made in Italy" genuinely represents. "We have unique qualities, good taste, we must assert ourselves for who we are and for what we have to offer," explained the founder of OTB.
"Italy produces around 80 percent of the world's luxury goods and is considered the number one country for the production chain. This is why our artisans are sought after all over the world, we must not let them escape," Rosso emphasized to RaiNews24 during the programme Pomeriggio 24, on Made in Italy Day.
Among the prominent supporters of a concrete approach to "Made in Italy" is the Minister of Enterprise and Made in Italy, Adolfo Urso. Last week, he announced that the introduction of a certification system was under consideration. This announcement followed the placement of the Loro Piana brand under judicial administration for alleged violation of workers' rights.
Urso told trade associations during a fashion roundtable that some illegal businesses in the fashion supply chain have tarnished the image of "Made in Italy."
A statement from the Ministry of Enterprise and Made in Italy clarified, "To counter the illegal behaviour of a few regarding labour, which can damage the reputation of the entire sector, Urso highlighted that the government is working on legislation to certify the sustainability and legality of companies in the sector, with the aim of offering a structural solution to the problem." This proposed legislation seeks to certify the supply chain belonging to the brand owner, based on specific preliminary checks. The goal is to prevent the brand owner from being held responsible for illegal or opaque behavior attributable to suppliers or sub-suppliers along the chain. What truly defines "Made in Italy"
However, the fundamental questions remain: what truly defines "Made in Italy," and can certification genuinely provide a comprehensive solution? Experience with certifications for gender equality indicates that such measures, while useful, have not fundamentally altered corporate approaches or fully equalized treatment in the workplace. Similarly, the introduction of increasingly stringent regulations, while necessary, is often insufficient on its own.
Therefore, this issue is complex and deeply cultural, encompassing numerous facets. In some instances, it may be necessary to move beyond the "Made in Italy" label and instead focus directly on the credibility of the brand, its people, and the company itself. Patrizio Bertelli, owner of Prada, was an early proponent of this view, decades ago advocating for "Made in Prada" to de-stigmatize offshoring to China. His philosophy was that if a product bore the brand's logo, it inherently guaranteed quality production, sustainable practices, and social responsibility.
Adriano Goldschmied, widely known as "the godfather of denim," echoes this sentiment. He has consistently maintained that a product must be "made anywhere" but ultimately a winner. As far back as 2017, he told FashionUnited that "Made in Italy" could be seen as a "sin of presumption." He argued that consumers trust the brand, not merely the "made in" label. "I'll give you an example: this phone I have in my hand is an Apple; the consumer doesn't care whether it's made in Taiwan or the US, but they care that it works well, which is guaranteed by the brand. This philosophy of 'Made in Italy', in many cases, has taken the Italian market out of reality. It is also true that in Italy there are excellent companies that know how to do their job, examples of great skill and quality," Goldschmied explained.
"The consumer is informed, they know how to recognise quality and that's what counts, not the 'made in' label. You have to be 'made anywhere but a winner'," Goldschmied concluded.
This reflection holds more relevance now than ever. To successfully navigate this complex situation, the industry must regain credibility through storytelling that communicates impeccable, real, and concrete story-making. The consumer is informed, they know how to recognise quality Credits: FashionUnited, image generated with the help of Artificial Intelligence This article was translated to English using an AI tool.
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