Latest news with #OTB
Fashion United
2 days ago
- Business
- Fashion United
Made in Italy under scrutiny: A call for transparency and credibility
"Made in Italy" has recently come under intense scrutiny, not only due to tariffs that continue to penalise many sectors despite recent trade agreements, but primarily because of persistent issues surrounding illegal labor exploitation. Companies are also grappling with significant difficulties in effectively monitoring their entire supply chains, encompassing both direct suppliers and sub-suppliers. These incidents of exploitation, the latest of which involves the prestigious Loro Piana brand, consistently highlight a critical theme for FashionUnited: the paramount importance of transparency and clear communication. Businesses must sincerely, simply, and carefully explain what "Made in Italy" truly signifies and how its standards are upheld throughout the production process. Saying "Made in Italy" without concrete explanation is no longer enough Simply stating that a product is "Made in Italy" without a concrete explanation is no longer sufficient to entice customers. This is particularly true in light of revelations concerning exploitation and unsafe working conditions, even involving highly prestigious brands. The knowledge that a designer handbag or luxury garment, retailing for thousands of euros, is sometimes paid to the supplier for a mere few tens of euros, as uncovered by various investigations, exacerbates the problem and alienates consumers from designer labels. Less than a week ago, Giusy Bettoni, founder and CEO of CLASS, an international eco-hub based in Milan, spoke with FashionUnited. She warned that claiming to be "Made in Italy" without a precise, clear, simple, concrete, and concise explanation of the concept is unhelpful, benefiting neither fashion nor the supply chain. A few months prior, Renzo Rosso, owner of OTB, the holding company behind brands such as Diesel, Jil Sander, Maison Margiela, Marni, and Viktor&Rolf, also urged brands to speak up. He encouraged them to explain and demonstrate what "Made in Italy" genuinely represents. "We have unique qualities, good taste, we must assert ourselves for who we are and for what we have to offer," explained the founder of OTB. "Italy produces around 80 percent of the world's luxury goods and is considered the number one country for the production chain. This is why our artisans are sought after all over the world, we must not let them escape," Rosso emphasized to RaiNews24 during the programme Pomeriggio 24, on Made in Italy Day. Among the prominent supporters of a concrete approach to "Made in Italy" is the Minister of Enterprise and Made in Italy, Adolfo Urso. Last week, he announced that the introduction of a certification system was under consideration. This announcement followed the placement of the Loro Piana brand under judicial administration for alleged violation of workers' rights. Urso told trade associations during a fashion roundtable that some illegal businesses in the fashion supply chain have tarnished the image of "Made in Italy." A statement from the Ministry of Enterprise and Made in Italy clarified, "To counter the illegal behaviour of a few regarding labour, which can damage the reputation of the entire sector, Urso highlighted that the government is working on legislation to certify the sustainability and legality of companies in the sector, with the aim of offering a structural solution to the problem." This proposed legislation seeks to certify the supply chain belonging to the brand owner, based on specific preliminary checks. The goal is to prevent the brand owner from being held responsible for illegal or opaque behavior attributable to suppliers or sub-suppliers along the chain. What truly defines "Made in Italy" However, the fundamental questions remain: what truly defines "Made in Italy," and can certification genuinely provide a comprehensive solution? Experience with certifications for gender equality indicates that such measures, while useful, have not fundamentally altered corporate approaches or fully equalized treatment in the workplace. Similarly, the introduction of increasingly stringent regulations, while necessary, is often insufficient on its own. Therefore, this issue is complex and deeply cultural, encompassing numerous facets. In some instances, it may be necessary to move beyond the "Made in Italy" label and instead focus directly on the credibility of the brand, its people, and the company itself. Patrizio Bertelli, owner of Prada, was an early proponent of this view, decades ago advocating for "Made in Prada" to de-stigmatize offshoring to China. His philosophy was that if a product bore the brand's logo, it inherently guaranteed quality production, sustainable practices, and social responsibility. Adriano Goldschmied, widely known as "the godfather of denim," echoes this sentiment. He has consistently maintained that a product must be "made anywhere" but ultimately a winner. As far back as 2017, he told FashionUnited that "Made in Italy" could be seen as a "sin of presumption." He argued that consumers trust the brand, not merely the "made in" label. "I'll give you an example: this phone I have in my hand is an Apple; the consumer doesn't care whether it's made in Taiwan or the US, but they care that it works well, which is guaranteed by the brand. This philosophy of 'Made in Italy', in many cases, has taken the Italian market out of reality. It is also true that in Italy there are excellent companies that know how to do their job, examples of great skill and quality," Goldschmied explained. "The consumer is informed, they know how to recognise quality and that's what counts, not the 'made in' label. You have to be 'made anywhere but a winner'," Goldschmied concluded. This reflection holds more relevance now than ever. To successfully navigate this complex situation, the industry must regain credibility through storytelling that communicates impeccable, real, and concrete story-making. The consumer is informed, they know how to recognise quality Credits: FashionUnited, image generated with the help of Artificial Intelligence This article was translated to English using an AI tool. FashionUnited uses AI language tools to speed up translating (news) articles and proofread the translations to improve the end result. This saves our human journalists time they can spend doing research and writing original articles. Articles translated with the help of AI are checked and edited by a human desk editor prior to going online. If you have questions or comments about this process email us at info@
RTÉ News
6 days ago
- Business
- RTÉ News
Committee urges Govt to include services in OTB
A cross-party Oireachtas foreign affairs committee report on the Occupied Territories Bill (OTB) "strongly recommends" services as well as goods should be included in any Government legislation. RTÉ News understands the committee agreed to make the key recommendation in a private meeting at Leinster House today, which is likely to continue until Friday afternoon. The committee has been tasked in recent weeks with drawing up a pre-legislative scrutiny report on the long-awaited Occupied Territories Bill, which will include a series of non-binding recommendations that will subsequently be considered by Government. The question of whether the bill should be limited to goods from what it describes as the Occupied Territories or be extended to services as well has been a key subject of debate in recent weeks due to the potential economic impact such a move could cause. However, in a recommendation which will be included in the committee's report and was agreed by all parties, the committee has said: "The committee strongly recommends progressing the bill and the prohibition of imports from the Palestinian Occupied Territories should be extended to include trade in services, in line with the advisory opinion of the International Court of Justice and the resolution which Ireland co-sponsored at the United Nations general assembly." The move is likely to place further pressure on Government to include services as well as goods in the Occupied Territories Bill, despite international warnings from the US administration last week over the potential economic consequences were Ireland to do so. In a statement to RTÉ News, Labour TD Duncan Smith said: "This is a welcome outcome from the committee and one I didn't think would happen when our work began as I feared Government members wouldn't support opposition calls to include services. "The fact we have this agreed recommendation with no dissent is a testament to the compelling evidence given by multiple witnesses as to why services must be included with goods. They cannot be separated. "The sends a strong message to the Minister for Foreign Affairs that he needs to expand the scope of this bill to include services. which is not only the wishes of this committee but, we believe, the popular wishes of the Irish people." Sinn Féin TD Donnacha Ó Laoghaire also said: "Including services is an important statement by the foreign affairs committee. The situation in Gaza is disgraceful and we need ot move decisively and quickly." The committee meeting is continuing this afternoon, with more than 60 other amendments not related to this key recommendation also being considered. On RTÉ's Morning Ireland on Wednesday, Taoiseach Micheál Martin again confirmed the Occupied Territories Bill is likely to go before the Dáil and Seanad in early autumn.
Irish Independent
23-07-2025
- Politics
- Irish Independent
Letters: Ireland and the US worked together for peace in the past and can do so again
Many comments were coarse and showed no evidence of their having read the meticulously worded Occupied Territories Bill (OTB). We must do more than respond in kind. Many of us have strong American links. US citizens with Irish ancestry can grasp Ireland's empathy for victims of famine and forced depopulation. Other Americans may not have such insights and might need inspiration from wise and erudite US politicians. Unfortunately, such guidance was often lacking in recent tragedies in Palestine and Israel. By contrast, from 1970 onwards, Democratic and Republican politicians tried to help Ireland during the Troubles. They sought the advice of Irish politicians, including John Hume. These exchanges hastened peace and brought enormous benefits for the island of Ireland. It is beyond time to revive the Ireland-US diplomatic and political exchanges of the John Hume era. Not all Gaza peace negotiations need to be held in Qatar. With Ireland's history, perhaps sharing the nuances of the OTB, Ireland could help bring a lasting accord. It could reciprocate the vital US input of 1998. Philip Powell, Co Dublin Israeli use of antisemitism defence rings hollow as abhorrent war continues The abhorrent and continuing inhumanity to the people of Gaza cannot be described as anything other than genocide. At the time, there was little awareness of the Holocaust, but today, there are ceaseless daily media reports of the killing of innocent people – God's children – by the Israel Defence Forces. Israel, alleging it is the sole democracy in the Middle East, claims criticism of the carnage is antisemitic. The Oxford English Dictionary defines 'semitic' as 'relating to or denoting a family of languages that includes Hebrew, Arabic and Aramaic and certain ancient languages such as Phoenician and Akkadian, constituting the main subgroup of the Afro-Asiatic family'. Therefore, Israel has no moral claim to the term 'antisemitic'. This is nothing other than an inhumane, immoral attempt to press naive parliamentarians into doing the bidding of those who desire to depopulate Gaza, allowing settlers to take it over. I can only conclude the perpetrators of this genocide do not trust God, as they delude themselves on the seriousness of what believing in God incurs personally. Declan Foley, Melbourne, Australia We put ourselves at risk of economic shock in cosying up to the once-friendly US Ireland can't afford to dismiss Donald Trump's 30pc tariff threat. I think from an Irish perspective it could be argued by some commentators that this really illuminates how foolish we were in making ourselves a US vassal state and becoming so economically dependent on the whims of one country. It's all fine and dandy when there's a US president who is affectionate towards Ireland. However, when there isn't that same affinity and closeness, and when we are just being treated like any other nation, especially when it comes to US interests, we are vulnerable to shocks, particularly when it comes to pharmaceuticals. Many would suggest that if we were a US vassal state, it has transformed this country. If one were to look at our nearest neighbour, Britain, and compare the standard of living, it could be argued that we are in a different league to the UK and most European countries. However, most young people in Ireland are living with their parents. For many of our citizens, there is a palpable cost-of-living crisis, and it could also be argued that this thriving economy of ours doesn't always translate to a real quality of living. John O'Brien, Clonmel, Co Tipperary Cork hurlers did so well this year, I hope they won't be too hard on themselves While I fully understand why Cork's management and players did not want a big homecoming reception, I would also say to them that they have done Cork proud in 2025 by winning the National League and the Munster Championship – no small achievement. Disappointment I can understand, but they did bring a lot of happiness to Cork fans this year, so they should not be too hard on themselves. But of course, full congratulations are due to Liam Cahill and the Tipp boys. Donough O Reilly, Stillorgan, Dublin Cork may have been the experts' choice, but their predictions fell flat on day In the Irish Independent sports section last Saturday ('All-Ireland final jury',) a so-called panel of experts, namely Colm Keys, Michael Verney, John Mullane, Frank Roche, Dermot Crowe, Conor McKeon and Eddie Brennan, all predicted at least a four-point win for Cork in the All-Ireland hurling final. The defence rests. Brendan Daly, Clonmel, Co Tipperary Good to see budget move from cost-of-living action to more capital spending The Summer Economic Statement details what levels of funding will be available for Budget 2026. It is good to see that there will be a move away from the so-called once-off cost-of-living measures towards more capital spending and investment in healthcare, education and social protection. There is going to be investment in infrastructure, and this is good for the future. There is an uncertainty out there and the Government needs to be careful. Each department needs to have a plan, and they all need to be cautious going forward. At least this year's budget will not fall in an election year. There will not be the same lobbying by interest groups. However, there will be a presidential election in November, which will be more of a personality contest than a political one. The economic state of the country should be the most important priority at the moment. We are about to enter choppy waters thanks to Donald Trump. However, we are fortunate that our economic state is in the safe hands of Paschal Donohoe. He and Jack Chambers are a formidable partnership. Thomas Garvey, Claremorris Mayo
Observer
21-07-2025
- Business
- Observer
Finally, Another Woman Designer Gets a Big Brand
In the latest move in the unprecedented realignment of the fashion world, Meryll Rogge was appointed creative director of Marni on Tuesday. She will be responsible for womenswear, menswear, accessories, store design and communications, replacing Francesco Risso, who left the Italian brand last month after almost 10 years. Rogge is the 17th new designer named to a big brand since mid-2024, but only the fourth woman. It's a striking imbalance in an industry that is still largely powered by womenswear and accessories, and one that was quick to pay lip service to diversity in recent years but has seemed to retreat from many of its pledges in terms of gender and race. Rogge will become the sole female designer in the stable of OTB, the holding company that also owns Maison Margiela, Jil Sander, Diesel and Viktor & Rolf and that reported sales of 1.7 billion euros in 2024, down 4% from 2023. Similarly, Louise Trotter, who will make her debut at Bottega Veneta in September, is the only female fashion designer at Kering, the luxury group that owns Gucci, Balenciaga and Saint Laurent, among other brands. The other two women who became creative directors of major fashion houses this year are Sarah Burton at Givenchy and Veronica Leoni at Calvin Klein. In a news release, Marni CEO Stefano Rosso called Rogge 'an exceptional creative talent and an inspiring woman.' A Belgian designer who started her career at Marc Jacobs before becoming head of women's design at Dries Van Noten and founding a namesake brand in 2020, Rogge, 40, shares a certain quirky practicality with Marni's founder, Consuelo Castiglioni. It was Castiglioni who transformed her husband's family fur company into a runway name beloved of bohemian intellectuals and art gallerists with a messy bent. In 2012, OTB bought a majority stake in the company, acquiring it fully in 2015. The next year, Castiglioni left, citing personal reasons, and Risso was named creative director. Though Risso's collections could be eye-poppingly imaginative, bristling with three-dimensional metal flowers or covered in what looked like finger paint, they could also seem self-indulgent — fun to look at but hard to wear. Rogge, who is relatively unknown outside the fashion world, became the first woman to be named designer of the year at the Belgian Fashion Awards in 2024 and was the recipient of the Andam Prize earlier this year, one of fashion's most prestigious awards. In explaining the selection, Guillaume Houzé, the president of Andam, cited Rogge's ability to turn 'ambiguity, hybridity and the unexpected into allies.' Like Castiglioni, she is also adept at marrying the conceptual to the commercial and has an affinity for color and the sort of print combinations that are alluring in their oddity. In the news release, Rogge called joining Marni 'both humbling and inspiring.' A spokesperson for Marni did not specify when Rogge would unveil her first collection. She did say, however, that the designer planned to maintain her own line and split her time between the two brands. Multitasking, as it were. —NYT
The Star
21-07-2025
- Business
- The Star
Who is Meryll Rogge, the under-the-radar fashion designer now heading Marni?
Meryll Rogge, who is relatively unknown outside the fashion world, became the first woman to be named designer of the year at the Belgian Fashion Awards in 2024. Photo: Instagram/Marni In the latest move in the unprecedented realignment of the fashion world, Meryll Rogge was appointed creative director of Marni last week. She will be responsible for womenswear, menswear, accessories, store design and communications, replacing Francesco Risso, who left the Italian brand last month after almost 10 years. Rogge is the 17th new designer named to a big brand since mid-2024, but only the fourth woman. It's a striking imbalance in an industry that is still largely powered by womenswear and accessories, and one that was quick to pay lip service to diversity in recent years, but has seemed to retreat from many of its pledges in terms of gender and race. Rogge will become the sole female designer in the stable of OTB, the holding company that also owns Maison Margiela, Jil Sander, Diesel and Viktor & Rolf and that reported sales of €1.7bil (approximately RM8.4bil) in 2024, down 4% from 2023. Similarly, Louise Trotter, who will make her debut at Bottega Veneta in September, is the only female fashion designer at Kering, the luxury group that owns Gucci, Balenciaga and Saint Laurent, among other brands. Read more: All eyes on fashion provocateur Demna as he attempts to revive Gucci's fortunes The other two women who became creative directors of major fashion houses this year are Sarah Burton at Givenchy and Veronica Leoni at Calvin Klein. In a news release, Marni CEO Stefano Rosso called Rogge 'an exceptional creative talent and an inspiring woman'. A Belgian designer who started her career at Marc Jacobs before becoming head of women's design at Dries Van Noten and founding a namesake brand in 2020, Rogge, 40, shares a certain quirky practicality with Marni's founder, Consuelo Castiglioni. It was Castiglioni who transformed her husband's family fur company into a runway name beloved of bohemian intellectuals and art gallerists with a messy bent. In 2012, OTB bought a majority stake in the company, acquiring it fully in 2015. The next year, Castiglioni left, citing personal reasons, and Risso was named creative director. Though Risso's collections could be eye-poppingly imaginative, bristling with three-dimensional metal flowers or covered in what looked like finger paint, they could also seem self-indulgent – fun to look at, but hard to wear. Rogge, who is relatively unknown outside the fashion world, became the first woman to be named designer of the year at the Belgian Fashion Awards in 2024 and was the recipient of the Andam Prize earlier this year, one of fashion's most prestigious awards. Read more: Why is Jonathan Anderson's first Dior show at Paris Fashion Week so significant? In explaining the selection, Guillaume Houze, the president of Andam, cited Rogge's ability to turn 'ambiguity, hybridity and the unexpected into allies'. Like Castiglioni, she is also adept at marrying the conceptual to the commercial, and has an affinity for colour and the sort of print combinations that are alluring in their oddity. In the news release, Rogge called joining Marni 'both humbling and inspiring'. A spokesperson for Marni did not specify when Rogge would unveil her first collection. She did say, however, that the designer planned to maintain her own line and split her time between the two brands. Multitasking, as it were. – ©2025 The New York Times Company This article originally appeared in The New York Times.
