Eight Irish restaurants where it pays to book ahead
19 Cross Kevin Street, Dublin 8; 087-4701577,
instagram.com/assassination_custard
Assassination Custard squad: Gwen McGrath and Ken Doherty, the return. Photograph: Dara Mac Dónaill
When Gwen McGrath and Ken Doherty recently announced the reopening of Dublin's smallest restaurant, there was much rejoicing. This time out they accept bookings, much to the relief of those who struggled to get tables before, and there's also wine to accompany lunch. Small sharing plates of smoky aubergine, calf's liver with fenugreek butter, and radicchio dressed with guanciale fat epitomise the eclectic Italian influence for which this cosy spot is much loved.
Joanne Cronin
Chapter One
18-19 Parnell Square, Dublin 1; 01-8732266,
chapteronerestaurant.com
Mickael Viljanen, chef-patron of Chapter One, one of the best restaurants anywhere. Photograph: Alan Betson
Mickael Viljanen's Chapter One isn't just Ireland's best restaurant – it's one of the best anywhere, and not just for the two-Michelin-star, €90 three-course lunch. At a recent meal, a parade of canapés (warm mushroom beignet, pissaladière hidden in transparent pastry) was followed with Loire Valley asparagus, wild turbot, Anjou pigeon and razor-sharp desserts. Bookings open for November and December 2025 on September 2nd at 9:30am. Tables for two go first; fours have more chance. Get on the waiting list now and sign up for the newsletter.
Corinna Hardgrave
Fish Shop at The Beach House
Turkey Road, Tramore, Co Waterford; 051-338270,
beachhousetramore.ie
The Beach House owners Jumoke Akintola and Peter Hogan. Photograph: Patrick Browne
Peter Hogan and Jumoke Akintola have stripped things back at their Victorian townhouse seafood spot in Tramore, now running a casual Fish & Chips Café on the ground floor. Light beer-battered fish – John Dory, haddock, whiting – leads the menu, backed by daily specials like Woodstown Bay oysters, Boatstrand crab salad and Roaring Water Bay mussel curry. It operates as a diningroom from Friday to Sunday. The wine list is as impressive as ever, and organic and biodynamic wines are poured by the glass, bottle or carafe.
CH
Goldie
128 Oliver Plunkett Street, Cork; 021-2398720,
goldie.ie
Goldie's Aishling Moore and Stephen Kehoe
There are dishes at Goldie that make you want to eat nothing but seafood for the rest of your life. Aisling Moore's creativity seems to know no bounds, creating pâté made from local meaty Rossmore oysters, Mexican-inspired pibil monk cheek sope or pan-fried megrim with cafe de Paris butter. There are generous mounds of crushed colcannon for sides and a modern wine selection available by the glass, carafe or bottle.
JC
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Grano
Unit 5, Norseman Court, Stoneybatter, Dublin 7; 01-5382003,
grano.ie
Grano's pasta is made fresh daily. Photograph: James Forde
Grano is one of Dublin's hardest reservations to secure, but it's worth it if you want pasta excellence. All pasta is made fresh every day, using flour from an ancient Italian grain grown by owner Roberto Mungo himself. New additions to the menu include cappellacci stuffed with slow-cooked beef and onion, romanesco artichoke ravioli, and spaghetti with asparagus, saltwort and Calabrian chilli breadcrumbs. Ask for recommendations from the all-Italian wine list.
JC
Kicky's
Castle House, Unit 9, South Great George's Street, Dublin 2; 01-9061008,
kickys.ie
Kicky's, South Great George's Street, Dublin. Photograph: Nick Bradshaw
When a meal starts with a chunk of potato focaccia, carbonara butter and guanciale, you might justifiably feel that you're in good hands. At Kicky's, chef Eric Matthews and team will take you through a spectrum from refined to indulgent. Think mussels bound lightly in taramasalata with smoked eel and kohlrabi, wild brill cooked over charcoal or rabbit Bolognese. Make sure to finish with Audrey Cahatol's signature Irish Coffee dessert.
JC
Library Street
101 Setanta Place, Dublin 2; 01-617099,
librarystreet.ie
Chef Kevin Burke in Library Street, in Dublin 2. Photograph: Naoise Culhane
Kevin Burke's restaurant is one of Dublin's toughest reservations, and for good reason. The room fizzes with energy and the food is smart, focused and inventive. The choux with horseradish and Cantabrian anchovy has been there since day one. Small plates include marinated peppers with salsa verde and kohlrabi, followed by a tranche of turbot with jus gras, sorrel and Béarnaise. The wine list, put together by ace sommelier and restaurant manager Ann-Marie Duignam, is just as sharp. Book via their website – and if only 5pm shows, email for cancellations.
CH
Variety Jones
79 Thomas Street, Dublin 8; 01-5671164,
varietyjones.ie
Variety Jones head chef Keelan Higgs
Variety Jones has finally settled into its new home at the junction of Thomas Street and Francis Street. The attractive high windows allow passersby to gaze in at the kitchen and chef Keelan Higgs at the pass. This is exactly what a neighbourhood Michelin restaurant should be, with a tasting menu that combines comfort and fine dining. The old premises a few doors down will reopen soon as a wine bar.
JC
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