What is hair and scalp oiling, and will it make my locks long like Rapunzel?

The Guardian

a day ago

Mythical representations of women, whether Botticelli's Venus, the Hindu goddess Lakshmi or the pre-Raphaellites' women of the Arthurian legends are often united by a common trait: their long flowing hair. You might think such lengths are confined to the realm of myth untouched by the realities of split ends, but if you look on social media you'll find content creators with locks that could rival Rapunzel.
These creators often promise specific products have helped them grow their hair 'crazy long crazy fast'. Hair and scalp oiling is most commonly what they attribute to growing their hair so long – as much as five inches in two months – often accompanied by other haircare routine tips such as using a bamboo bristle brush, scalp massaging and hair growth supplements.
But what do the experts say?
As far as hair length goes, it is mostly predetermined by your genetics, says Rebecca Anderson, a trichologist and salon owner.
There are four phases of the hair growth cycle: the anagen (growth) phase, catagen (transition) phase where growth slows down, telogen (resting) phase and finally exogen (shedding phase) when the hair falls out and is replaced by the new hair growing from the same follicle, which starts the process over again.
A person's anagen (growth) phase can last from anywhere between two and six years. 'Some people are just blessed and they have a longer growth cycle, and some people's is very unfortunate,' Anderson says.
Dr Annika Smith, a dermatologist at the Skin hospital in Sydney, agrees thickness, length and growth rate are largely genetically determined. 'While good hair care can support hair health and reduce damage, no topical product or supplement can override genetic limits or alter the duration of the hair growth cycle.'
Apart from genetics, the other things that influence hair growth are age, ethnicity, hormonal changes and balanced nutrition, says Adjunct Associate Professor Michelle Moscova from the faculty of medicine at the University of New South Wales.
Evidence that hair and scalp oiling help hair grow faster is very limited, Moscova says. Regular scalp massage can improve circulation to the scalp and hair follicles, which in theory can improve hair growth, but there is little data to back up this claim, she says.
Most perceived benefits of oiling are likely due to reduced breakage or improved shine, rather than true stimulation of hair follicles, Smith says.
Associate Professor Yousuf Mohammed, an expert in pharmaceutics at the University of Queensland, says although he is sceptical of these videos, the advice around oiling is 'very commonsense and intuitive'. He adds that many ancient cultures, for example Indian and Egyptian, promoted hair oil as a way to boost hair quality.
Oils can create a protective barrier around the hair shaft, which helps retain the moisture and prevent damage, while also nourishing the scalp and the hair follicles with essential fatty acids and minerals dissolved in oils, Mohammed says. In this way, not so much has changed from those older practices, as he has come across two hair care products used in ancient Egypt: saffron powder in snake oil and fenugreek in lion fat. 'If I break it down simply, what I see is that there's one ingredient which is a blood flow booster … and then there is a fatty base that helps in its absorption.'
Young and healthy people are typically not the subjects of research related to hair, which mostly focuses on those who experience hair loss, Moscova says. 'Several drugs have been shown to be effective to treat this in men and women who are experiencing balding. For example, minoxidil is a topical treatment that improves blood flow to the follicle, and Finasteride is a prescription-based drug.'
Drugs such as minoxidil only work for specific conditions of hair loss, and won't be suitable for everyone, Anderson warns.
Dr Frances Tefany, a dermatologist at the Skin hospital in Sydney, says the commonest cause of hair loss seen in clinical practice is generalised shedding (known as 'telogen effluvium'), which is usually reversible if it's under six months. Common causes in women in particular are iron deficiency, thyroid issues, as well as certain medications, Tefany says.
'What should alert them is if they start to lose hair suddenly, and then it escalates, and they notice, when they pull back their hair into a ponytail, it's half the size of what it was, or when they're brushing the hair is easily falling out.'
A smaller percentage of people will have a more chronic condition, such as autoimmune conditions that cause hair loss such as alopecia areata, for which there are new treatments available, Tefany says.
Hair oils are helpful for hydration in patients with a coexistent inflammatory skin condition such as eczema or psoriasis of the scalp, but people who suffer from dandruff shouldn't use oils as often there is coexistence of yeast in the scalp which can cause irritations and also potentially hair loss, she says.
Tefany says it's important not to overuse hair products. 'It's a little bit like skincare. These days we find a lot of people are using so much additional products on their skin, even when they don't have an issue.'
In general, if people want to have good hair health they should have regular trims, avoid chemical weathering which can occur due to hair dyeing and heat styling, avoid habits such as smoking and over-drinking, and eat a balanced diet. 'All the things that we know that are good for other parts of us will certainly show up in the hair, just like it does on the skin,' Tefany says.
Antiviral is a fortnightly column that interrogates the evidence behind the health headlines and factchecks popular wellness claims
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