The key to reviving a ‘crumbling' ghost town? Make it Instagrammable
Stornara, a once-prosperous city in Puglia, was well-known for its production of agricultural goods like wheat and olives, but as the population shifted — younger people began to stop settling down where they were raised, instead moving away from the town in favor of more job opportunities in bigger cities.
Though some locals began to resign themselves to the empty streets and broken-down buildings, Lino Lombardi, an artist, decided to try to bring the city back to life.
4 Though the residents themselves love the murals, they attract plenty of tourists who are on the hunt for unique, captivating spots to take photos.
Luciano Magaldi Sardella / SWNS
Though other Italian towns are known for their collections of Renaissance paintings or their preserved Roman ruins, Lombardi offered up Stramurales, an annual street art festival. Lombardi, along with artists from across the world, painted murals on buildings across the town.
While 2018, the first year of the festival, was a relatively slow start — six murals were produced — there are now over 140 in Stornara, adding plenty of color and life to the town that locals and tourists alike have enjoyed.
According to SWNS, tourist-based revenue has increased 25% since 2020, allowing eight new businesses — three bed and breakfasts, two restaurants, and an art supplies shop included.
'Suddenly, there were loads of people turning up with cameras and guidebooks. I had to quickly learn to say 'welcome' in five different languages,' explained cafe owner Antonio Maglione in an interview with SWNS. 'The murals saved my business, but more than that, they saved our community.'
Lombardi says that the murals that decorate over a hundred town walls are inspired by a variety of themes, including the city's history, migration within Italy, and the importance of the citizens as the core of the town.
4 A crowd gathers around one of the murals in Stornara.
Luciano Magaldi Sardella / SWNS
'We had lost our pride, but the murals reminded us that our town and our stories are worth celebrating,' said Salvatore Nappi, a retired olive farmer, when speaking with SWNS.
Nappi is one of many citizens who get to vote on the content suggested for each mural, and because a variety of artists work on the pieces, they range from vibrant to muted to cartoonish to ultra-realistic, adding even more texture and life to the town.
One woman, Rita Gensano, returned to Stornara in 2017 to look after her parents after being away for years. At first, she said she was dreading moving back, but after Stramurales started up and tourists began to visit, she told SWNS it's 'the coolest town in Italy.'
4 An artist working on their mural.
Luciano Magaldi Sardella / SWNS
'At first people thought I was crazy, but I couldn't just watch the town fade away. I started looking at the walls as blank canvases which could be turned into something beautiful,' Lombardi said.
'Every mural reflects both the artist's vision and our community's heart. We never planned to be a case study, but if our experience can help other communities, that's even more meaningful,' he concluded.
Following the success of Stramurales, Lombardi also founded a charity that offers high schoolers opportunities to get involved in art.
For the July 2025 edition of the festival, Lombardi is inviting artists from each continent to contribute to Stramurales, prompting more diverse visitors and captivating new art to look at — a decision the town's citizens are certainly pleased with.
4 Many of the murals are in central or populated locations in the town, so people can enjoy the art to its fullest extent.
Luciano Magaldi Sardella / SWNS
'When I first returned, it felt like a sacrifice, it was like walking into a ghost town,' shared Gensano, who now acts as a tour guide and lives in her hometown full-time. 'I had left it full of life and laughter, but when I returned, it felt like it was dying.'
'But actually it has become something extraordinary which I have been fortunate to be a part of,' she concluded.
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National Geographic
3 hours ago
- National Geographic
The little-known Sicilian town that feeds the world's almond craze
Avola, set in the heart of Sicily's Ionian coast, might be unknown to many at first glance. But behind its humble name lies the beating heart of a successful business, where the almonds produced are considered among the finest in the world. With its strategic position, overlooking the Gulf of Noto, it has a rich history intertwined with the art of the almond cultivation (from Italian 'mandorla') that has been shaped by the influence of Phoenician and biblical symbolism, creating a one-of-a-kind cultural and gastronomic legacy. 'Centuries of tradition and hard-work, passed down from generation to generation, are rooted in Avola's fertile lands' says Salvatore Rizzo, a third-generation farmer raised in the town. 'The quality of these almonds is the result of intensive irrigation techniques first introduced by the Arabs, that helped turn this nut into a cornerstone of the Italian patisserie'. Avola's history Avola, commonly known as the hexagonal city, preserves a deep identity typical of a true Mediterranean melting pot. The town was once seen as a golden land for its position along the Sicilian coastline, which inevitably attracted Greeks, Romans, and Byzantines, each of whom left an indelible mark. With an earthquake in 1693, much of this legacy was shaken, making Avola a living mosaic of Sicily's layered past. The method of growing almonds from Avola's almond trees—also known as mandorlo—follows the rhythms of nature. Photograph by Adam Eastland, Alamy Stock Photo (Top) (Left) and Photograph by siculodoc, Getty Images (Bottom) (Right) Today, the past can be seen through its still-standing Baroque places of worship, historical buildings, old recipes, and stunning landscapes. 'I've always been drawn by Avola's quiet resilience, seen through the eyes of locals. It feels like being suspended between past and future," says Rizzo. 'On a normal day, you'll spot kids enjoying almond biscuits and elders pouring soap mixture into molds, still making scibina by hand." Over the centuries, there's still a creativity that doesn't come prepackaged and it's rare in nearby bigger cities. (10 must-do experiences in Sicily) The almond-growing process The method of growing almonds from Avola's almond trees—also known as mandorlo—follows the rhythms of nature. Trees are carefully planted by hand, spaced far apart to allow their root systems to stretch deep into the volcanic soil. A testament to meticulous selection can be seen in the harvesting process, done by hand, aided by gently shaking off the branches to loosen the ripe Pizzuta almonds. Today, farmers manage the work without any artificial tools, unlike in ancient times when irrigation was essential. Much of Avola's almonds are used to make traditional Sicilian sweets, from marzipan and rich cassata to sugared almonds. Beyond the kitchen, they are used by the cosmetic industry, where their oils and creams are renowned for their soothing properties. An operator carefully inspects the Avola almonds, discarding broken or damaged ones to ensure only the finest proceed to the peeling stage. Photograph by Francesco Vigliotti (Ancient ruins, city tours and cannoli on a family tour of western Sicily) 'The almond tree of Avola is still nurtured thanks to methods that have nothing to do with modern agriculture and is probably one of the first introduced crops by conquerors of the Sicilian coast' says Rizzo. "Avola's porous soil lives in symbiosis with Southern Italy's dry summers and mild winters, which create great conditions for the healthy blooming of its prized almonds.' One of the oldest and most renowned almond producers in Avola is Nastasi Mandorle, a family-run business with two locations in town, just a few miles from Syracuse. The company's roots date back to 1898, when entrepreneur Lorenzo Nastasi, together with his two sisters, began cultivating almonds in the surrounding countryside. Nastasi practices a dry-farming approach, which relies entirely on natural rainfall and the nutrient-rich soil of Avola. Given the particular terrain and the summer blossoming, almonds are harvested from July to September, carefully hulled and sun-dried for three days, in order to preserve their sweet oils and woody hull, also named mallo. Where to try it Nastasi: A trusted name in the almond business, Nastasi's factory is a stop you can't miss if you're a food enthusiast. The well-stocked store offers a wide range of products, from silvered and whole-peeled almonds to fragrant almond pastes, pistachios, and hazelnuts. A visit to this place guarantees a full immersion in Avola's almond history. Various stages in the traditional processing of the Avola almond, a jewel of Sicilian agriculture. Photograph by Francesco Vigliotti Nama : Nama is a family-run business founded by the Tiralongos. If you are looking for a sweet snack, head here. This centuries-old factory welcomes its visitors with a curated selection of Avola's finest nuts, including fresh almonds, organic products (creams, almond oil), and nut pestos, all made with devotion to the land. Pippo Si Pappa Bar : This lovely cafe is famous for its silky and fresh almond granita (rated the best in town), warmed brioche, local ricotta, and artisanal ice-cream. Where to stay Avola offers countless charming accommodations for a relaxing stay. Morfeo Charming Rooms & Relax is the best option to quickly reach the city center, and it features a private pool, a spacious garden, and suites with private balconies. Le Torrette Rooms and Apartments is a cozy bed-and-breakfast with its own restaurant and a bicycle rental service, which is a perfect way to explore the coast. When to go Avola is an urban jewel year-long, but it's best enjoyed in summer (July-September), when you can sunbathe on beaches with crystal-clear waters and witness the almond harvest. October is a good compromise for those who are more inclined toward tasting tours. The temperature is pleasantly breezy, and never too hot. Getting there Avola is easy to reach from major Italian metropolises. Flights from Catania Fontanarossa (CTA) or Comiso Airport operate all year-long. Alternatively, you can take a high-speed train to Catania (Italo or Frecciarossa), followed by a bus to Avola that takes about 1.5 hours. (How chocolate went from rough to refined in one Sicilian town) Maria Salvati is an Italian freelance journalist and copywriter. Born and raised in Rome, she writes about lifestyle, politics, and travel with a focus on Italy's culture. Her work has appeared in Business Insider, Thrillist, and Fodor's. Follow her on Instagram @mariasalvati2
Los Angeles Times
2 days ago
- Los Angeles Times
The passion and wild herbs of a Tuscan chef
A meal in Tuscany's Valdichiana. Plus, L.A.'s best new Armenian restaurant. Avner Levi's cherry-topped hamachi crudo. The chicken Caesar wrap comeback. And the best wedding gifts for restaurant lovers. I'm Laurie Ochoa, general manager of L.A. Times Food, with this week's Tasting Notes. Most of the time we travel to escape our everyday lives, to experience something new. But sometimes we travel to return to something familiar. I've been returning to the same part of Italy, an Umbrian town where it's easy to slip across the A1 into Tuscany, for more than 20 years. For many of those years I've made my way to Osteria La Vecchia Rota in Marciano della Chiana, a small fortress town between Arezzo and Siena. Two things bring me back. Certainly, there is the food, intensely local pastas and roasted meats you are unlikely to find in any of the thousands of Italian restaurants that exist in the U.S. And then there is the proprietor, Massimo Giavannini, who appears before you in a burgundy-red chef's apron and matching chef's hat that, in contrast to the stiff toques favored by classically trained French chefs, flops jauntily to the side — a sign of friendliness and approachability. You can order from a printed menu, but most of the time, if he is not handling a rush of orders in the kitchen, Giavannini — who has called himself 'the innkeeper with a passion for organic produce' — prefers to describe the dishes for you in his distinctive raspy voice. These are the moments you realize you have found yourself in the hands of a passionate cook, one who wants you to understand what is special about the ingredients that will go into your food. 'You know pesto,' he said on one visit, 'but our grandmother and grandfather made another pesto. We make it with selvatica mint [or wild mint], good garlic, good oil, pine nuts and walnuts.' He explains that the portulaca, or purslane, which sauces his tortelli, is critical to the region in summer — for people and for animals — 'because inside the leaf it's like water ... it's important for energy, to cool off.' Of the black truffle-topped ricotta gnudi I always order, he says, 'Ours are green because they are made with ... ' He struggles with the English word and then smiles big when I ask, 'nettles?' 'Yes!' he says. We have done this information exchange before and I love it every time. Often, I'll learn something new, but mostly I like being in his now-familiar presence. Of course, it was my late husband and this paper's previous restaurant critic, Jonathan Gold, who first brought me and our kids — and then our friends — to La Vecchia Rota thanks to his obsession with trying as many places in the guidebook Osterie d'Italia, put out by Italy's Slow Food organization. I didn't see it in this year's guide, but at one point La Vecchia Rota — specializing, as its website says, in 'the now-forgotten cuisine of the Valdichiana' — was awarded a 'snail,' the guide's highest ranking for restaurants that epitomize Slow Food's cook-local ethos. Last month, a big group of us gathered in the piazza outside the restaurant, where tables are set out in the summer for al fresco dinners. Plates of our favorite pastas were passed around, including one of hand-cut squares of dough sauced with pears and Pecorino cheese and another made with Tuscany's big-bulbed garlic known as aglione di Valdichiana, then platters of chicken 'made the way it used to be,' roast pork, onions cooked in the ashes of the wood-fired oven and some of the best potatoes I've ever eaten. We may have been a group of outsiders with no actual roots in this land, but after being fed here by Giavannini year after year, this corner of Tuscany has started to feel a bit like home. Ever since I shared a meal with critic Bill Addison early in his research for this week's review of Tun Lahmajo in Burbank, I haven't stopped craving the Armenian restaurant's many meaty and cheesy breads, stews and roasted potatoes hand-mashed at the table. Since then, I've tried to get other people to come try what Addison calls 'L.A.'s best new Armenian restaurant' — in part because Tun Lahmajo serves dishes that go beyond the classic repertoire of charcoal-grilled meats and sides we've come to love in Southern California. I wasn't always successful. Maybe now, with Addison's official blessing on the place, I can persuade my friends to come along. 'A trio of friends — all from L.A.'s Armenian community, and all high school dropouts — scraped together $900 in 2017 because they believed that their Nashville-style fried chicken stand was the future,' writes Food's reporter Stephanie Breijo. 'Now Dave's Hot Chicken is worth $1 billion.' Breijo describes how Arman Oganesyan, Tommy Rubenyan and Dave Kopushyan (a former line cook at Thomas Keller's now-closed Bouchon Bistro in Beverly Hills) went from an unpermitted pop-up in an East Hollywood parking lot to the central figures in 'one of L.A.'s most astounding small-business success stories' after being acquired in June by private equity firm Roark Capital. It's a classic L.A. story — one more national fast-food chain born in Southern California. Of course, Dave's is not the L.A. restaurant that popularized hot chicken in Southern California. That would be Howlin' Ray's started in 2015 by Johnny Ray Zone. He gives full credit to the Black cooks of Nashville, who started bringing the fire to fried chicken, especially the family behind Prince's Hot Chicken, started in the 1930s by Thornton Prince after an angry lover tried to get her revenge on the philandering entrepreneur with an overdose of spice on his fried chicken. (The name of the woman who made that first fuming batch seems to have been lost to history.) Angelenos have access to the Prince legacy through Kim Prince, who partnered with Dulan's on Crenshaw owner Greg Dulan to start the Dulanville Food Truck. Back in 2020, columnist Jenn Harris made hot fried chicken with Prince and Zone for her Bucket List video series. It still makes good watching. Cento Raw Bar has become one of L.A.'s hottest new restaurants of 2025. Its chef, Avner Levi, came to the Times Test Kitchen recently for our 'Chef That!' video series to show us how he makes hamachi crudo, fresh jalapeños and an unusual but delicious addition of sweet cherries. Watch Levi break down half of a hamachi into two filets and then transform the fish into a perfect summer appetizer in this video. Then try the recipe for yourself. It's a wonderful summer dish. Reporter Lauren Ng talked with Shibumi chef-owner David Schlosser about his decision to close the Kappo omakase-style restaurant on Saturday. 'In the end of 2023 to 2024, things really flattened out,' he said. 'The staff is the same, the recipes were the same. The only thing that wasn't the same was people just weren't coming in.' And in another loss for downtown L.A., Verve Coffee Roasters has closed its Spring Street location, the first shop it opened in Southern California. 'Like many businesses in downtown L.A., we saw lasting changes in foot traffic patterns that deeply affected day-to-day operations,' a Verve spokesperson told Ng in an email. 'The level of consistent foot traffic simply didn't support what is needed to sustain the cafe in a high-overhead environment like downtown.' Its other L.A. locations remain open. Chef Michael Mina's Mother Tongue in Hollywood has also closed, and Cabra, the Peruvian-inspired restaurant from Girl & the Goat chef Stephanie Izard at downtown L.A.'s Hoxton hotel is closing on July 31.
Business Insider
2 days ago
- Business Insider
I moved from Florence to London and wasn't ready for the fast-paced lifestyle. It made me wish I'd never left Italy.
I'm from Chicago and took a gap year to travel when I turned 30. I started out in Florence. I loved living in Florence, where it was easy to meet people, and everyone I met seemed welcoming. I was optimistic about my next destination, London. However, it wasn't a right fit for me. When I hit my 30s, I hit the road. I quit my job in the US and flew straight to Florence, where I spent the next six months basking in the city's sunlight and rich culture. It was a beautiful start to my gap year of travel, which I was treating myself to as I entered a new decade of life. After Florence, I ventured to London, which was a bit of a culture shock. I'd always pictured London as this luxurious city filled with Royals and cheeky accents. However, living there was a new reality far from what I'd expected. All in all, I wasn't ready for the fast-paced life in London after living the slow life in Florence. The harsh contrast was something that made me wish I had never left Italy. I felt welcome in Florence, and meeting people was easy In Italy, I was spoiled by the welcoming nature of the Florentines I met. From the start, I was getting approached by locals in bars, overjoyed to speak with an American. One day for lunch, I was sitting solo, and the waiter invited me for a ride on his Vespa during his break. He showed me the most beautiful outlooks of the city. It was one of the best spontaneous moments of my time there. The generosity and excitement from strangers to show me their city is what made living there so special. I even became part of an Italian family. After six hours of learning how to make pasta, my teacher invited me to meet his wonderful wife and son the following night at their home. They made me feel so welcome, it was as if no barrier existed between us, despite their being Italian and my being American. I went to their home for many dinners throughout my time in Italy. My experience in London was very different After having such a positive experience in Italy, I was confident about going to another city to meet people. However, I was surprised to find the people I met a bit more reluctant than I had imagined. When I went out for a night, I would sit at the bar and actively strike up a conversation with someone. Most of the time, the people I met didn't want to be bothered, and I ended up talking to the bartender all night. Upon my entering stores, it was common for associates to greet me with "You alright?" While this greeting may be natural for locals, the question always felt jarring to me, and I found myself keeping my guard up far more often than in Italy. For most of the two months I spent in England, I felt alone due to the interactions I had when trying to make friends. To me, the city felt like a city of cliques, with groups of people from Uni or work that had no intention of expanding their circle. This feeling isn't unique to London, but of bigger cities in general. As an American, I felt welcome and seen in Italy. In England, I felt isolated and guarded. Going from sun to consistent cloudy skies Besides the culture shock, the March weather in England was also a harsh adjustment. After the first week, the lack of sun overshadowed my sparkly view of this bustling city. I was used to the sunny days in Florence, where it was encouraged to take time to enjoy your morning cappuccino, followed by a two-hour Aperitivo, and finally a four-hour dinner that lasted well into the night. London's fast pace was also a shock. Being from Chicago, I thought I would also ease right into the Tube and large crowds. However, I had gotten so used to the lightness of Italy that I had a hard time adapting. For example, it took me a month to understand the London layout and how vast it really was. I took countless trains going the wrong direction and waited for buses that never came. By contrast, it only took me about two weeks to get my bearings in Florence. I hardly ever took public transportation and found its accessibility to be one of its best parts. I could easily walk three to five miles from one neighborhood to the next. I could give it another try This isn't to say that there aren't wonderful things about London. I was able to find a slower lifestyle, more akin to Florence, by the southern coast and in the Somerset countryside. All in all, the contrast between Italian and English cultures was too drastic. I wasn't able to adapt in a way that made me feel comfortable in London. In fact, I ended up going back to Italy for four months after my time in England. However, that's not to say that I wouldn't enjoy England if I lived there at a different time. I am currently living in New York City and think the similarities would actually help me enjoy London the next time around. Both cities have a flourishing cultural scene and many unique neighborhoods worth exploring. I did myself a disservice by trying to compare Italy and England while I was visiting. In reality, there is no comparison to Italy. In my experience, its slowness and warm embrace are truly unmatched.
