How Can I Be Sure My Clothes Aren't Made in a Sweatshop?

New York Times

6 days ago

Ever since the 2013 disaster at Rana Plaza in Bangladesh, the deadliest accident in the history of the garment industry, it has been impossible for anyone to deny knowing that there is a labor crisis in the modern fashion world. It is one that prioritizes the constant production of more and cheaper stuff over the safety and livelihoods of many of the people employed to make that stuff.
Since then, a variety of laws and private agreements have been put in place to supposedly change this reality, but in fact every year seems to bring new revelations about fashion brands being caught for working with manufacturers that enforce sweatshop conditions. Once upon a time these revelations centered primarily on fast-fashion or mass-fashion brands working with factories far overseas, but lately, as you point out, they have also come from luxury houses that are working with factories in Italy.
Brands like Dior, Armani, Valentino, Montblanc and Loro Piana have all gotten in trouble because of factories in Italy said to be operating with abusive conditions. Often the factories that have been subcontracted by factories the luxury brands officially employ, though similar stories have been made public since the release of the 2007 documentary 'Luxury Slaves.'
This is particularly jarring, because for years luxury brands justified their high price tags by pointing to the quality of both the materials and the labor as well as the know-how involved in creating their products. The implication was that part of what you were paying for was the security that what you were buying was made in a responsible way, by people who were fairly paid for their expertise. This is why 'Made in Italy' and 'Made in France' became synonyms for 'made well.'
Not anymore. These days, policing supply chains can feel like playing Whac-a-Mole. As soon as one bad actor is exposed, another one pops up. If you want to know how bad it is, check out the investigations of an NGO called Transparentem that is focused on stopping modern slavery. It has looked into the supply chains of more than 100 apparel companies.
So what's a consumer to do?
It's not enough to check to see if a brand claims to demand a code of conduct by their suppliers. The only way a brand can ensure that a factory abides by the rules is to fully own it. And while brands like Louis Vuitton and Hermès do, many companies also contract out to factories that sometimes then subcontract. A lot of them, it turns out, don't have complete pictures of where their products are made.
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