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This ancient thermal wonder is a sole-stirring experience

This ancient thermal wonder is a sole-stirring experience

The Advertiser7 days ago
The guard looks at me, points to my feet, and barks: "Shoes off!"
The guard at Pamukkale looks at me, points to my feet, and barks: "Shoes off!" Subscribe now for unlimited access.
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I look ahead - a long and wide pathway of white lies before me, filled with visitors with their shoes in their hands. I take mine off and step onto the strange-looking surface.
The monumental gateway to the city of Aphrodisias. Picture by Michael Turtle
From my research, I know the white surface is calcium that's been washed down in the water for centuries, deposited here and hardened. But before arriving, I had no idea of how it would actually feel. Although everyone is being ordered to remove their shoes to protect this natural wonder, the rule has the unintended benefit of making the experience tactile. Now my feet can touch the white path - chalky but smooth, solid but a bit slippery where the water runs over, naturally chilled but warmed by the sun.
This is Pamukkale in Trkiye, a natural wonder and World Heritage Site that's been created by the thermal spring water flowing down the hill. Natural terraces down the slope have been formed by the minerals, along them are hundreds of pools with reflective water and calcified edges.
The calcium terraces of Pamukkale are a World Heritage Site. Picture by Michael Turtle
Pool upon pool cascade into each other. Some are now unfortunately empty because overuse by tourists over the years has tampered with the natural flow (even now, despite rules not to go into the water, I see some children splashing around). But when I get to the top of the track and put my shoes back on, I can look back down across the dozens of layers of these travertines and get the full effect.
I've arrived at Pamukkale just before sunset and the changing light creates an animated spectacle as the colours morph in front of me. From bright turquoise blue, hints of yellow appear, before the rich oranges fill the pools. The white calcium carbonate glows at first, before turning into dark black borders between the water. At one point, a strong wind picks up and the water comes alive, jumping out of the travertines and blowing across the cliff into my face.
The water is said to have heath benefits. Picture by Michael Turtle
For thousands of years, the pools and the water within them have been considered to have health benefits. The overuse that has damaged them is not a new phenomenon. To manage their popularity in Classical times, the spa city of Hierapolis was built at the top of the cliffs more than 2000 years ago by the Ancient Greeks and then adapted by the Roman. Once stretching for more than a kilometre along the top of the hill, it would've been an elegant resort with colonnaded streets, public baths, a theatre, and temples dedicated to healing gods.
There is still enough to see of the ruins of Hierapolis today to get a sense of how it might once have felt when the streets were busy with pilgrims and health-seekers. But the next morning, I set off from Pamukkale to explore a much larger and more impressive Ancient Greek city that once stood here in this part of Trkiye.
Aphrodisias is about an hour's drive from Pamukkale. As you might be able to tell from the name, this city was once all about love. Although it was a large regional capital with a population of about 15,000 people, it would've attracted a lot of visitors for its central focus, the temple dedicated to the love goddess Aphrodite.
Aphrodisias was famous for its marble sculptures. Picture by Michael Turtle
When it comes to the ancient ruins of Trkiye, most people think of the most famous of them, Ephesus. But Aphrodisias also has much to offer. The site stretches out over a large area and has been well preserved or restored. It also generally doesn't have large tourist crowds, allowing you to lose yourself in the moment.
Many of the houses that would once have filled the suburbs have yet to be excavated, but you can see some of the larger ones (often taking up a whole city block) that reveal a wealthy and prosperous community. The traditional-style baths take a prominent place in the city's layout and would have been the epicentre of the gossip trade, while a beautiful amphitheatre shows a dedication to celebrating the arts.
The amphitheatre of Aphrodisias. Picture by Michael Turtle
But one of the main attractions is the remains of the enormous open-air stadium, described on the information plaque as "the largest ancient stadium in the world and one of the best preserved". Standing at one end, the other seems so far away - 270 metres, to be exact. And there would've been times when 30,000 people from across the whole region would've filled every seat along that length, shouting and cheering in the blazing sun.
Of course, all of this revolves around the Temple of Aphrodite, with many of its mighty marble columns still standing. Although there was probably a sanctuary here from about the 6th century BC, this building is from about 500 years later. Some marble statues that once might have adorned the building have been found nearby, while other pieces of the structure lie amongst grass and flowers.
Ruins of the city surround the Temple of Aphrodite. Picture by Michael Turtle
And while the temple is the highlight, I find myself drawn to a much smaller monument - a marble headstone above a patch of grass marking a grave. It's here that Turkish archaeologist Kenan Erim was buried when he died in 1990 after 30 years leading the work to uncover Aphrodisias. If it wasn't for his passion, we probably wouldn't be able to see all the wonders that have been discovered here.
While the love of Pamukkale over the centuries has led to some damage to the travertines that only time will be able to heal, Kenan Erim's love of Aphrodisias has brought this once bustling centre back to life.
Words by Michael Turtle Michael Turtle is an Australian journalist who left his job in televisionto travel the world forever. He'll show you how to find the lesser-knownplaces, get involved in the culture, learn the history, and meet locals
along the way.
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Top picks and insider tips: six experts on travelling in Asia like a pro
Top picks and insider tips: six experts on travelling in Asia like a pro

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time6 hours ago

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Top picks and insider tips: six experts on travelling in Asia like a pro

The Golden Triangle. Picture: Getty Images Updated July 25 2025 - 1:06pm, first published 12:00pm FAVOURITE PLACE: The name of Beijing's Summer Palace is a bit misleading. After two hours of walking, I've seen parks, temples, even a waterfront merchant street - but nothing that looks like a palace. That won't come until the end of the visit when I eventually reach the opulent wooden halls decorated with porcelain folding screens and dragon statues. Subscribe now for unlimited access. or signup to continue reading All articles from our website The digital version of Today's Paper All other in your area Ten kilometres away, the Forbidden City feels like ... well, a city. Here, the Summer Palace feels like a whole country! Needing a full day to explore properly, the historic imperial complex has 3000 buildings that reflect centuries of evolving culture - just one of them, the Long Corridor, has 14,000 paintings of Chinese folklore. But the highlight is getting between the buildings, through the sculpted landscape of hills, lakes and gardens inspired by feng shui, Confucianism, and the best of China's countryside. A dumpling feast in Taiwan. Picture: Getty Images ON THE WISH LIST: Among countless reasons I regret not yet visiting Taiwan, one has really been eating at me ... the dumplings. Boiled, fried, steamed, filled with soup - there are so many types and I one day plan to devour them all until I look like a dumpling myself. Of course I won't ignore the hiking and the beaches or the museums and the festivals, which also offer a taste of this small but dynamic country. TOP TIP FOR TRAVELLING IN ASIA: As I hang on white-knuckled to the back of the motorbike, the young Vietnamese woman weaving us through Saigon's traffic points out restaurants. I'd prefer she keep her hands on the bike (and, anyway, my eyes are clenched shut from fear). 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This introduction to Cantonese opera includes song and performance, guided by a moderator who briefly explains the history of the artform. Plus, it comes with dim sum and tea to sup on during the performance. It's this mix of the traditional and contemporary that ensures you can't ever be bored in Hong Kong. Cardamom National Park. Picture: Getty Images ON THE WISH LIST: In Cambodia, near the border of Thailand, is the Cardamom Mountains, south-east Asia's largest tract of tropical rainforest. It's not easy to get there and most of the accommodation is in tented ecolodges, but it's a haven for wildlife. Research camera traps in 2023 recorded 108 different species of animals, 23 of them vulnerable, including Asian elephants, sun bears, clouded leopards, pileated gibbons and Sunda pangolins. Most of them are almost impossible to see, but I'm willing to take my chances trekking in the jungle. TOP TIP: Don't try to pack too much into your Asian trip. 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The Ping River murmurs past as you settle in beneath a huge banyan tree to enjoy the best heart-starter breakfast in the north, eggs Lanna Benedict spiced with green chilli nam prik noom. Aloi maak (that's Thai for delicious). Later, cross the Iron Bridge to the river's quieter side, explore its shoreline and visit Wat Ket Karam, where the eccentric temple museum might be open or not. Traditional samlor drivers in Chiang Mai. Picture: John Borthwick ON THE WISH LIST: To travel the Mekong south from the Thai border at Sop Ruak (the Golden Triangle) to the Mekong Delta, in Vietnam, would complete some unfinished business on south-east Asia's longest river. I've done the almost 5000-kilometre-long Mekong in parts from Kunming in Yunnan, China, by river ferry, longtail speedboat, cargo shuttle and cruise vessel, but not as far as the South China Sea. Why do it? Simply because it's there. Worse reason: because it's being dammed and double-damned to oblivion. 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PS, never leave your passport as a deposit or "guarantee".

Overseas travellers are paying an extra $80 when they don't have to
Overseas travellers are paying an extra $80 when they don't have to

The Advertiser

timea day ago

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Overseas travellers are paying an extra $80 when they don't have to

Picture: Shutterstock Use a card with no international fees Set up your PIN before you leave for your holiday Don't withdraw money at airport currency exchange kiosks Pay in the local currency Foreign transaction fees are surely the bane of every overseas traveller's existence. You often forget about them until you have to pay for something - or worse, until you get home and see your credit card bill. Subscribe now for unlimited access. or signup to continue reading All articles from our website The digital version of Today's Paper All other in your area I experienced this on a recent trip to Europe, but more on that later. New research from shows almost 60 per cent of Australian travellers paid foreign transaction fees on their most recent overseas holiday, costing them $80 on average. A third of those were slugged with charges of $100 or more. says foreign transaction fees - charges banks apply when you use your card overseas or make a purchase in a foreign currency - typically range from 1 per cent to 3 per cent of the transaction amount. These charges can quickly add up. If you spend $5000 overseas, a 3 per cent foreign transaction fee adds up to $150 in unnecessary charges. Saving on international fees puts more money in your pocket for seeing the sights. Picture: Shutterstock finance expert, Sean Callery, says these fees are one of the most overlooked travel expenses and one of the easiest to avoid if you're willing to shop around. "Most people look for savings on flights, accommodation and travel insurance - but forget about international transaction fees," he says. There are plenty of credit cards and debit cards on the market that don't charge international transaction fees. Some allow you to see your balance and spending in both local currency and AUD, as well as the conversion rate, so you can control your spending. But there are other ways you can avoid hefty bank fees, too. Here are Explore and top tips to avoid those pesky fees. Use a card with no international fees Australians can pick from more than 30 debit and credit cards that charge no foreign transaction fees, Mr Callery said. Switch before you travel and save up to 3 per cent on every purchase or ATM withdrawal you make overseas or online in a foreign currency. Don't forget to set up your PIN Before my Europe trip, I obtained a travel money card. But once overseas, I realised I could only tap and pay up to a maximum of AU$100 and once over this cap, I had to punch in my PIN. The problem was, I hadn't set up my PIN before leaving Australia, so I used my other card for larger payments and ended up being slugged with the very fees I was trying to avoid. Make sure you set up your PIN before you travel. Avoid overseas ATMs with extra fees Mr Callery advises sticking to partner banks or major networks when withdrawing cash abroad. Some ATMs also charge their own fees on top of what your bank may add, so it's a good idea to check with your bank about fee-free global ATM partners or daily withdrawal charges. "Avoid withdrawing cash using a credit card as high cash advance rates and fees typically apply," he says Always pay in the local currency There are instances overseas when you might be asked whether you want to pay in Australian dollars or the local currency. Always choose the local currency, Mr Callery says. Picture: Shutterstock If you pick AUD, the merchant's payment system handles the conversion using its own exchange rate, which will trigger dynamic currency conversion, and this often adds hidden fees, he says. Avoid currency exchange kiosks at airports "Airport currency counters have some of the worst exchange rates and fees," Mr Callery says. "If you need cash, withdraw a small amount from a reputable ATM abroad using a debit card or use a prepaid travel card." Words by Sarah Falson Sarah is ACM's travel producer. She believes regional travel is just as fun (if not better) than staying in the big cities and loves any travel experience to do with nature, animals and food!.My all-time favourite destination is ... Cornwall. From the giant seagulls to the blustery beaches, Cornish pasties and fishing villages, it stirs something romantic and seafaring in me. Next on my bucket list is … Mongolia. I want to go somewhere really unique that feels totally foreign and challenges my way of life. My top travel tip is … Don't plan too much. Walk the streets and let it happen. And make sure you check out what's within a few blocks of your hotel - sometimes the best local food is found that way.

Cheaper prices, fewer people: why Aussies are embracing off-season travel
Cheaper prices, fewer people: why Aussies are embracing off-season travel

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time3 days ago

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Cheaper prices, fewer people: why Aussies are embracing off-season travel

Camping at a Reflections Holidays park in Australia. By Sarah Falson Updated July 22 2025 - 12:24pm, first published 12:30pm A growing percentage of Aussies are turning their backs on popular European summer in favour of "off-season" travel. Subscribe now for unlimited access. or signup to continue reading All articles from our website The digital version of Today's Paper All other in your area The off-season and shoulder season market is growing as tourism operators spruik the benefits of avoiding the peak travel months in Australia and abroad. These can include fewer crowds, cheaper prices and less impact on the environment. Holland America Line's ANZ director of sales, Alex Pikardt, said the organisation had expanded its 2026 Europe cruise season by six weeks to allow more people to cruise outside European summer. Popular off-season destinations are Norway during the winter for a chance to see the Northern Lights, and Belgium for its picturesque streets and Christmas markets which can be visited outside the peak Christmas holiday season. A Holland America Line ship cruising through Norwegian fjords. Mr Pikardt said shorter lines at iconic sites during the off-season meant "a more authentic, less hurried atmosphere" for travellers. The reduced number of ships competing for dock space allowed for extended shore visits. Wendy Wu Tours Australia managing director, Simon Bell, said the company had a 30 per cent growth year-on-year in passengers travelling to Japan during the northern hemisphere summer. Japan's peak season is March to April when the cherry blossoms are blooming, and October and November when the autumn leaves turn. May and September are also popular for sumo wrestling tournaments. Mount Fuji, as seen from a Wendy Wu tour in summer. During the off-season from June to August, travellers can enjoy festivals including Kyoto's Gion Matsuri. Travelling during the off-season also helps to tackle overtourism by spreading travellers out throughout the year. "Travelling in the off-season not only offers a more enjoyable and relaxed experience, with fewer crowds and more breathing room, but also plays a key role in reducing pressure on heavily visited destinations," Mr Bell said. "It allows travellers to engage more deeply with local culture, while helping to distribute tourism more evenly throughout the year." Extending school holidays For East Coast Car Rentals CMO, Ben Whitmore, the big benefit of embracing the off-season is the cheaper prices and therefore the opportunity to extend the holiday. He said Aussies are feeling fatigue from "revenge travel", and with interest rates and household costs rising, they are looking for easier, more affordable escapes - like a domestic road trip. Road tripping. Picture: Shutterstock "There's definitely been a shift in how Aussies are travelling - and it's happening pretty quickly," Mr Whitmore said, adding the idea of "peak season" is starting to fade as Aussies look for better value. East Coast Rentals has had a 20 per cent rise in visits to the sites and cars are being rented for 20 per cent longer compared to last year. He said this was "a sign that Aussies are embracing more leisurely, family-style holidays and taking the journey at a slower, more relaxed pace." Reflections Holidays CEO, Nick Baker, said the organisation's Australian east coast holiday parks don't have "much of an off-season" but attract different kinds of travellers. "Outside of summer and school holidays, our coastal parks tend to shift from families to a more relaxed pace, welcoming grey nomads, couples, solo adventurers, and those seeking a peaceful nature escape," Mr Baker said. A Reflections Holidays glamping tent. "Many people also look inland during the off-season, to enjoy activities such as hikes and fishing in the cooler months. "The atmosphere is generally quieter and more serene, making it ideal for those who want to slow down, reconnect with nature, and enjoy uninterrupted time outdoors." Reflections was forecasting a 10 per cent increase in winter bookings compared to the same period last year, which represents approximately an additional 20,000 winter guests. His top tips for enjoying the winter months either camping, caravanning or staying in a cabin were to pack layers - including thermals, waterproof jackets and extra bedding - put your screens away so you can make the most of nature, and get to know your camping neighbours to build a sense of community, and hopefully memories. "Many of the people you meet in the off-season will be camping enthusiasts and there is always something to talk, laugh about and even learn about for your next trip," he said. Words by Sarah Falson Sarah is ACM's travel producer. She believes regional travel is just as fun (if not better) than staying in the big cities and loves any travel experience to do with nature, animals and food!.My all-time favourite destination is ... Cornwall. From the giant seagulls to the blustery beaches, Cornish pasties and fishing villages, it stirs something romantic and seafaring in me. Next on my bucket list is … Mongolia. I want to go somewhere really unique that feels totally foreign and challenges my way of life. My top travel tip is … Don't plan too much. Walk the streets and let it happen. And make sure you check out what's within a few blocks of your hotel - sometimes the best local food is found that way.

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