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The Advertiser
5 days ago
- The Advertiser
This ancient thermal wonder is a sole-stirring experience
The guard looks at me, points to my feet, and barks: "Shoes off!" The guard at Pamukkale looks at me, points to my feet, and barks: "Shoes off!" Subscribe now for unlimited access. or signup to continue reading All articles from our website The digital version of Today's Paper All other in your area I look ahead - a long and wide pathway of white lies before me, filled with visitors with their shoes in their hands. I take mine off and step onto the strange-looking surface. The monumental gateway to the city of Aphrodisias. Picture by Michael Turtle From my research, I know the white surface is calcium that's been washed down in the water for centuries, deposited here and hardened. But before arriving, I had no idea of how it would actually feel. Although everyone is being ordered to remove their shoes to protect this natural wonder, the rule has the unintended benefit of making the experience tactile. Now my feet can touch the white path - chalky but smooth, solid but a bit slippery where the water runs over, naturally chilled but warmed by the sun. This is Pamukkale in Trkiye, a natural wonder and World Heritage Site that's been created by the thermal spring water flowing down the hill. Natural terraces down the slope have been formed by the minerals, along them are hundreds of pools with reflective water and calcified edges. The calcium terraces of Pamukkale are a World Heritage Site. Picture by Michael Turtle Pool upon pool cascade into each other. Some are now unfortunately empty because overuse by tourists over the years has tampered with the natural flow (even now, despite rules not to go into the water, I see some children splashing around). But when I get to the top of the track and put my shoes back on, I can look back down across the dozens of layers of these travertines and get the full effect. I've arrived at Pamukkale just before sunset and the changing light creates an animated spectacle as the colours morph in front of me. From bright turquoise blue, hints of yellow appear, before the rich oranges fill the pools. The white calcium carbonate glows at first, before turning into dark black borders between the water. At one point, a strong wind picks up and the water comes alive, jumping out of the travertines and blowing across the cliff into my face. The water is said to have heath benefits. Picture by Michael Turtle For thousands of years, the pools and the water within them have been considered to have health benefits. The overuse that has damaged them is not a new phenomenon. To manage their popularity in Classical times, the spa city of Hierapolis was built at the top of the cliffs more than 2000 years ago by the Ancient Greeks and then adapted by the Roman. Once stretching for more than a kilometre along the top of the hill, it would've been an elegant resort with colonnaded streets, public baths, a theatre, and temples dedicated to healing gods. There is still enough to see of the ruins of Hierapolis today to get a sense of how it might once have felt when the streets were busy with pilgrims and health-seekers. But the next morning, I set off from Pamukkale to explore a much larger and more impressive Ancient Greek city that once stood here in this part of Trkiye. Aphrodisias is about an hour's drive from Pamukkale. As you might be able to tell from the name, this city was once all about love. Although it was a large regional capital with a population of about 15,000 people, it would've attracted a lot of visitors for its central focus, the temple dedicated to the love goddess Aphrodite. Aphrodisias was famous for its marble sculptures. Picture by Michael Turtle When it comes to the ancient ruins of Trkiye, most people think of the most famous of them, Ephesus. But Aphrodisias also has much to offer. The site stretches out over a large area and has been well preserved or restored. It also generally doesn't have large tourist crowds, allowing you to lose yourself in the moment. Many of the houses that would once have filled the suburbs have yet to be excavated, but you can see some of the larger ones (often taking up a whole city block) that reveal a wealthy and prosperous community. The traditional-style baths take a prominent place in the city's layout and would have been the epicentre of the gossip trade, while a beautiful amphitheatre shows a dedication to celebrating the arts. The amphitheatre of Aphrodisias. Picture by Michael Turtle But one of the main attractions is the remains of the enormous open-air stadium, described on the information plaque as "the largest ancient stadium in the world and one of the best preserved". Standing at one end, the other seems so far away - 270 metres, to be exact. And there would've been times when 30,000 people from across the whole region would've filled every seat along that length, shouting and cheering in the blazing sun. Of course, all of this revolves around the Temple of Aphrodite, with many of its mighty marble columns still standing. Although there was probably a sanctuary here from about the 6th century BC, this building is from about 500 years later. Some marble statues that once might have adorned the building have been found nearby, while other pieces of the structure lie amongst grass and flowers. Ruins of the city surround the Temple of Aphrodite. Picture by Michael Turtle And while the temple is the highlight, I find myself drawn to a much smaller monument - a marble headstone above a patch of grass marking a grave. It's here that Turkish archaeologist Kenan Erim was buried when he died in 1990 after 30 years leading the work to uncover Aphrodisias. If it wasn't for his passion, we probably wouldn't be able to see all the wonders that have been discovered here. While the love of Pamukkale over the centuries has led to some damage to the travertines that only time will be able to heal, Kenan Erim's love of Aphrodisias has brought this once bustling centre back to life. Words by Michael Turtle Michael Turtle is an Australian journalist who left his job in televisionto travel the world forever. He'll show you how to find the lesser-knownplaces, get involved in the culture, learn the history, and meet locals along the way.
Scottish Sun
03-07-2025
- General
- Scottish Sun
Who REALLY built Egypt's Great Pyramid is ‘revealed' in hidden inscriptions dating back 4,500 years
Click to share on X/Twitter (Opens in new window) Click to share on Facebook (Opens in new window) ARCHAEOLOGISTS have unearthed hidden inscriptions inside Egypt's Great Pyramid which could reveal who built the iconic structure. The groundbreaking discovery could hold the key for who is responsible for the monument's construction nearly five thousand years ago. 2 A view of the great pyramids, Giza, Egypt Credit: Getty 2 Archaeologists have challenged the accepted belief that the Great Pyramid was built by slaves Credit: Getty According to the Ancient Greeks, 100,000 slaves who worked in three-month shifts over 20 years produced the Great Pyramid of Giza. However, fresh discoveries suggest that paid laborers who took three days off a month are responsible. Egyptologist Dr Zahi Hawass and his team recently explored a series of narrow chambers above the King's Chamber using imaging technology, finding never-before-seen markings left by work gangs from the 13th-century BC. They subsequently stumbled upon tombs of the laborers which included statues of the workers during the pyramid's construction. read more in tech PHWOAR-CA Never-before-seen moment two killer whales are filmed KISSING in incredible vid "[The discoveries] confirm that the builders were not slaves. If they had been, they would never have been buried in the shadow of the pyramids," Hawass said during an episode of the Matt Beall Limitless podcast. "Slaves would not have prepared their tombs for eternity, like kings and queens did, inside these tombs." The Great Pyramid of Giza, is the oldest and largest of the three pyramids in Giza, Egypt. As the name suggests it is in Giza, a city on the west bank of the River Nile close to Cairo. It was built as a tomb for the Fourth Dynasty pharaoh Khufu, also known as Cheops, and his queen. Khufu is believed to have reigned during the 26th century BC from 2589BC to 2566BC. Astonishing moment a dog is spotted at the top of 455ft Great PYRAMID of Giza after climbing up to bark at birds Few details about the ruler are known, with all the information coming from inscriptions in his necropolis in Giza and later documents. He is thought to have had two wives, Meritites I and later Henutsen. Inside the pyramid are three chambers - the Queen's Chamber and the King's Chamber, connected by the Grand Gallery. The latest findings also shed light on how the pyramid was built, revealing that limestone from a quarry just 1,000 feet away was hauled to the site using a rubble-and-mud ramp, remnants of which were found southwest of the monument. Inscriptions were previously found inside the Great Pyramid during the 19th century, sparking debate that the writings were forged hundreds of years after it was built. "There was some debate on whether or not that could be a forgery, but now you're saying that you've discovered three more cartes within the King's Chamber,' Beall asked Dr Hawass. "They were found in chambers that are difficult and dangerous to access, and they use writing styles that only trained Egyptologists can accurately interpret,' said Dr Hawass. "It's nearly impossible that someone in recent times could have forged something like this. You must climb about 45 feet and crawl through tight spaces to even reach those chambers." Dr Hawass and his team also scooped a number of tools inside the tombs which were likely used to build the pyramid, including flint tools and pounding stones. He added: "The base of the Great Pyramid is made from solid bedrock, carved 28 feet deep into the ground. "This means that after marking the square base, the builders cut down into all four sides of the rock until they created a level platform of solid stone, no blocks, just bedrock. "You can still see this today on the south side of Khufu's pyramid." Pyramid building in Egypt reached its peak with the Fourth Dynasty of Pharaohs which saw constructions in both Giza and Dashur. Pyramids were not built in isolation but formed only one part of a pyramid complex. Other elements usually included a satellite pyramid, other small pyramids for queens, a mortuary temple, a valley temple, and a causeway between them. A brief history of Ancient Egypt Here's everything you need to know... The Ancient Egyptians were an advanced civilization who at one point owned a huge portion of the globe The civilization began about 5,000 years ago when ancient humans began building villages along the River Nile It lasted for about 3,000 years and saw the building of complex cities centuries ahead of their time – as well as the famous Great Pyramids The Ancient Egyptians were experts at farming and construction They invented a solar calendar, and one of the world's earliest writing systems: The hieroglyph The Egyptians were ruled by kings and queens called pharaohs Religion and the afterlife were a huge part of Ancient Egyptian culture. They had over 2,000 gods Pharaohs built huge elaborate tombs to be buried in, some of which were pyramids – at the time among the largest buildings in the world The Egyptians believed in life after death, and important people's corpses were mummified to preserve their bodies for the afterlife The Ancient Egyptian empire fell due to a mix of factors, including wars with other empires and a 100-year period of drought and starvation
Cosmopolitan
09-06-2025
- Entertainment
- Cosmopolitan
Words for penis: a ranking of the 30 weirdest (and funniest)
Wiener? Willy? Weenie? These are just a few nicknames used to affectionately (we hope) refer to the more anatomically correct 'penis.' But while many prefer to use the p-word when describing the external sex organ, others like to get a little more creative. Seriously, have you ever heard of baloney pony? Us neither. And thanks to the internet, it means that access to weird and wonderful words has never been easier. So, whether you're searching for something new to call your package, or you're looking for a cute, private pet name for your boyf's 'thing,' we've got you covered. Here are 30 different words for penis... Of course we start with this one. It's the most common informal word, after all. Also, why not begin with one that everybody knows, just to ease us in a bit? Did you know the term 'phallus' actually originates from the Ancient Greeks? Back then, it was a symbol of strength and power... Dual meaning, here. While 'dick' is another common nickname for penis, it can also be used as an insult. Although, in British humour, if someone calls you a 'dick,' it probably means you're funny and they like you. When it's hidden beneath clothes, it's called a package. Simple as that. Well, if it gets the job done, as Chappell Roan would say, it's a fair description. The same as dick, including the affectionate insult. " (that's shorthand for, 'same as above.') OK, this one's actually quite cute. It can stay. This is more American, we reckon. But in Germany and Austria, a wiener is a sausage. So again, kind of makes sense. It also seamlessly brings us to our next word... Slang, innuendo, whatever you want to call it. It's basically due to the physical resemblance between the two. Who doesn't remember the lads in school casually throwing this word around every two minutes? Oh, the nostalgia. Or, if you put the word 'Magnum' in front of it, you're suddenly transported to the iconic It's Always Sunny in Philadelphia scene, where Danny DeVito, aka Frank Reynolds, drops his "monster condom" that he uses for his "magnum dong." Maybe because it rhymes with slang? Who knows? Bit vulgar, but not completely offensive because it is true. Not really what we'd want an adult calling their penis, but not the end of the world. Because sometimes you just forget words... This one's more of an offensive euphemism, we'd say. Maybe best to avoid. Yep, the internet is home to some creative brains. Bit smutty. Bit funny. Not suitable for vegetarians. We'll never understand why these typically middle-aged men's names are always used as innuendos. Maybe it's because they feel quite approachable? We don't even need to explain this one. This just does not sound nice AT ALL. Cock... rooster... You get the association. Any food item that has a remote phallic resemblance will not escape a penis nickname. See? Not wrong. Anatomically speaking, a penis is a sexual organ. In the words of Lady Gaga's "LoveGame"... If anybody ever referred to their penis seriously as a 'love gun', there would never be a second date. Stand up to attention and all that. Also incredibly cringe. Best left in the past. Yes, it's very childish, we know. Sophie Williams is a Freelance Journalist and Copywriter, covering everything from Fashion to Entertainment to music, Lifestyle and Features. She has interviewed a range of musical artists and authors including Alyssa Edwards, Courtney Barnett, Confidence Man, The Vaccines, Loyle Carner, Gabrielle, and John Niven, and has written for publications like Metro, Reader's Digest, ITV's Woo! and Vice's NBGA. She is also working on a book for HarperCollins about Taylor Swift, due to be published in 2024.
Emirates Woman
02-06-2025
- Business
- Emirates Woman
How I got my job as… Founder of this UAE-based resortwear label
This week, we speak to Lucy Redfern, Founder of the UAE-based fashion label Scorpio Rizing. Welcome to the Emirates Woman weekly series 'How I got my job as…' where we speak to some incredible entrepreneurs and businesswomen both based in the UAE and globally to find out about their career paths that led them to where they are now; what their daily routines look like; the advice they'd give to those starting out; and the hurdles they've had to overcome. It's in a Scorpio's nature to be passionate about their art, and at Scorpio Rizing, the brand embodies this. All products are designed and made in the UAE, where designs will be launched in exclusive collections to advocate sustainability and will feature around stand out pieces. With resortwear pieces taking centre stage, these piece are exactly what you need to pack for your next holiday. To delve into her journey as a creative lead and founder, Emirates Woman spoke to Redfern to see how it began for her in the fashion world. What was your favourite subject at school? My favourite subject was History, right from an early age I had a huge interest in the history of the world from the Ancient Greeks up to the Tudors. My grandmother was a history and Latin teacher so she would teach me both subjects on a weekend as a child. Our house was full of old history books that my grandfather picked up as he travelled the world after he served in the Gurkhas during WW2 and subsequently then after for his work. I also loved English Literature, I am a very creative person who doesn't have the ability to draw, so English Literature allowed me to be creative through writing. What was your first job? I got my first job working in a perfume shop in a shopping centre in Yorkshire, England (where I was born and raised) on my 16th birthday. I would get my weekly salary and then go straight into the stores to spend it. I have always been obsessed with clothes. What brought you to Dubai? I was working as fashion buyer for a fast fashion company in Manchester, England when I was contacted by a recruiter for an opening at the e-commerce brant that is Namshi. I had never even been to Dubai before, but 4 weeks later I was packing my bags and saying goodbye to my family, ready to move to Dubai. I remember being amazed as I drove down SZR for the first time ever after leaving the airport. I owe alot to Namshi, not only were they responsible for me moving to Dubai, but I gained so much valuable experience from them that absolutely helped me start my own business. What inspired you to enter the space and launch your brand? I had been a fashion buyer for 10 years and always had the dream of having my own brand but I really had no idea where to start. I have always been told that I have a 'good eye' for fashion and I could pick on and source pieces/prints/trends that nobody else would see, so I always knew that I wanted to channel this into something of my own, something that didn't necessarily have the restrictions that can come from buying for a large company. Then in 2022, my best friend suddenly passed away and it made me realize that life really is too short not to chase your dreams and that Dubai was really missing a 'cool girl' brand. So after some hesitation, and alot of doubt, one of my closest friends Elle (who owns Posture Pilates Studio), finally gave me the pep talk I needed to get up and go for it, and Scorpio Rizing was officially born. Talk us through the concept? I always knew that if I started a brand, it would be called Scorpio Rizing (as I am, of course, a Scorpio rising!). I have always been into fashion, right from a young age as my mum would make a lot of my clothes for me (she too has a great eye!) and my interest in history from a young age also lead me to explore things such as astrology as I would read about this and spirituality in many of the old, worldly books we had at home. I always had a vision of combining fashion with astrology. I ultimately want women to wear the pieces and to know that she stands out because of her femininity. We avoid any sort of mainstream trend and design pieces which are eye catching and original but can be worn again and again. I very much position the brand as a part of the 'slow fashion' movement, meaning that we limit consumption by releasing limited collections each year. What are the key elements of your role? As well as being the owner of Scorpio Rizing – I am also the social media manager, customer service manager, and occasional logistics and finance manager! I am heavily involved in all aspects of the business as we grow but mainly I focus on the creative direction of the brand by creating moodboards and design ideas which I then share with my incredible designer who will then takes care of the actual sketching/CAD'ing process.. I also oversee all content and creative shoots as well as managing the day-to-day communication with my suppliers and fulfilment partners to ensure everything runs smoothly and on time. I do however hire people for the design and digital marketing side of the business. Talk us through your daily routine. I am an early riser so this means starting emails at 6am, I will respond to any customer service enquiries at this time. I then check over all orders received the day before to ensure our fulfilment centers in the UAE and UK have packed and shipped on time. I then start one of my favorite parts of the job which is checking the daily analytics of the store, which countries are people looking at the website from (it blows my mind that people all around the world know about Scorpio Rizing!), have we acquired new customers, what product are people buying/looking at the most etc. Then I will work on social media posts and ensure these are scheduled through the week (I'm really trying to build TikTok so try and document what I can but I keep forgetting!). I have regular catch ups with the wonderful freelancer, Beth, who manages all my digital marketing as I will approve all ad and email messaging as well as analysing the performance of our paid ads. I also have regular calls with my suppliers to ensure there are no issues or delays – they will regularly send me samples and fabrics to fit and approve as well (the average time from design to going online is around 8 months as I like to make sure everything is done to a high standard and as we are a 'slow fashion' brand, we don't rush the process). And then we have the general admin side of the business. What advice do you have for anyone looking to follow in the same footsteps? Be passionate. Many people say they want to start a business or a brand but they don't know what business or what space they want to be in – I think if you don't already have that business/niche idea in your head, then you're not passionate enough to get started. Also ensure you do your research on suppliers, logistics, and the tech and AI needed to go into building a website. Make sure you have a target audience in mind and design everything for them. I always knew I wanted to capture the 'cool girl' who spends summers in Ibiza and winters in Dubai (with a little bit of Thailand and Bali thrown in!) so I build my branding to appeal to them. Tell us more about the pieces? Our pieces are limited, meaning we only initially buy 50-80 pieces per style and then repeat what works well (our Orange Tie Dye Soleil Maxi Skirt has been a best seller since day 1 so we always try to keep this in stock). I always start the design process by thinking 'where is the Scorpio Rizing girl going this summer?' and then I design based on that. Last summer it was the South of France, the summer before that when we launched was Coachella and this summer it is a full Euro Summer vibe! Each piece is designed with feminine fits (think backless, fishtail hems, flared sleeves) and stand out prints. We have released our first ever few pieces of swimwear this season and it has been amazing to see the reaction to this (pre-sales were crazy!). Our newest collection 'Celestial Waves' is really inspired by the magical island of Ibiza and the beautiful crystal waters that surround it. We develop our pieces using left over plain fabric which we then dye to our specific print, meaning we keep consumption as low as possible. What is the best piece of advice you have ever received? ALWAYS TRUST YOUR GUT INSTINCT. Nobody knows your vision and goals like you do, so if you feel that something isn't aligning with them, remove it. I have had a few instances where external parties have tried to strong arm me into things that haven't felt right, so I have always followed my gut. Also a few occasions where I have felt that a particular style wasn't perhaps right and they have ended up being my worst sellers. Your instinct is a very powerful thing. And what is the worst? 'That's life' – my wonderful mum said this to me after I once complained that I didn't want to work a corporate job for the rest of my life! That isn't life for me, life for me is building something of your own that gives you freedom. I love my mum more than anything, but she was wrong just this once. What's the biggest challenge you have had to overcome? It has been my own mindset when things haven't gone to plan or I've faced setbacks. As a Scorpio, we do have the tendency to be maybe just a little overdramatic sometimes, so when I have faced setbacks I have initially seen this as the end or a sign to give up, but each time I have persevered and always pulled through to resolve the issue at hand. What's lies ahead for the brand? Growth! We have some exciting partnerships coming up with 3rd party e-commerce platforms, we are already partnered with Wolf and Badger and Silk Fred in the UK and are now expanding with our UAE partnerships which is so exciting. On top of this we are also strengthening our D2C (Direct to Consumer) business through our website by really improving the functionalities. Due my experience in e-commerce, I have been able to build really strong foundations which will support growth. I am also attempting to build a TikTok audience (when I find time to document everything) on top of growing our overall social presence through Instagram. And as always, designing really great pieces with a big focus on strong creatives. – For more on luxury lifestyle, news, fashion and beauty follow Emirates Woman on Facebook and Instagram Images: Supplied & Feature Image: Instagram @scorpiorizing
Yahoo
23-05-2025
- Yahoo
In search of ‘fjaka'—the Croatian art of doing nothing
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK). This story begins — as many good yarns do — in a bar. Specifically, Beach Bar Dodo beside Dubrovnik's seafront, where I'm sipping beer with a friend. David Farley had sub-let his perfectly nice flat in New York to decamp to Croatia. What's he doing with his days, I ask. Not much, he replies: 'Perfecting my fjaka.' Fjaka, pronounced 'fee-aka', could only have come from a land of sunbaked islands. It is, David explains, no place to go, no place to be. Allowing days to drift and blur. Back in the capital, Zagreb, they make rude jokes about Dalmatians as donkeys, but that misses the point entirely. With fjaka, the region has elevated easy living into an artform. With no better plans, I decide to embark on a quixotic search for something the Croatians can't exactly define themselves — but which I'll apparently know when I find it. Lastovo seems the place to look. Croatia's second-most remote island after Vis, Lastovo was once a naval base and off limits from the mid 1940s until 1988 — like a Bond villain's lair, tunnels that once concealed submarines burrow deep into its cliffs. But if Vis is bohemian chic, Lastovo represents something Homeric, almost epic. In 2003 the World Wildlife Fund for Nature called Lastovo a last paradise of the Mediterranean. In 2006 Lastovo was designated a nature park. Croatians speak about it with a kind of reverential awe. As I approach by ferry, it seems little altered since the Ancient Greeks dropped anchor: just one house among wild, pine-scrubbed hills. We dock in a glassy bay and I board the island's only bus — a tatty people-carrier — to reach the sole hotel, Hotel Solitudo: a modestly tarted up Yugoslav relic in the island's only resort, Pasadur. There's not much to that either: two restaurants, a kiosk renting kayaks and bikes, and some concrete platforms that islanders call 'beaches' with a straight face. Beaches are Lastovo's weak spot, but what a place to attempt fjaka. For a few days, I potter. I swim in water so turquoise it would make a peacock blush. I read. At night, I sit with my feet in the sea, breathing in the smell of pines as you might a fine wine, goggling at a sky boiling with stars. With zero light pollution, Lastovo hopes to become Europe's first Dark Sky Sanctuary. Is this fjaka though? Not really, says Diana Magdić of the Lastovo Tourist Board. Swimming and reading are too active, apparently. 'Fjaka is a state of mind,' she says. 'It's not thinking. It's just letting time pass, the sound of cicadas, the heat.' Diana perfected her fjaka after she moved to the island as a 'refugee' from Zagreb. 'I don't think Lastovo people realise how pure this island is. You can hear the quiet here. You can feel it.' I know what she means. Beyond the tourism office, Lastovo Town turns out to be a semi-ruin of pale stone and forgotten secrets, where cats doze in sunny corners, weeds sprout between marble steps and doorways reveal courtyards with plants in old tomato tins. If it wasn't for the occasional radio blaring behind lace curtains, I might have thought it entirely abandoned. I rent a scooter — not exactly fjaka either, but irresistible. At Lučica cove I swim beneath former fisherman's houses, their shutters painted shades of emerald and cobalt. In Zaklopatica bay I enjoy a lazy lunch in Triton restaurant — fresh grilled fish, served on a terrace that dangles above the water. I glimpse yachts, nodding at their moorings, and am reminded of a board I spotted earlier, advertising trips with a fisherman from Pasadur. 'This is my boat,' says Ivica Lešić, gesturing vaguely. In front of us is a smart gulet, its wood shiny, its sails neatly stowed — not what I had expected at all. He steps on board, then clambers over a railing into a plastic tub moored beneath, where his wife Helena waves from beneath an awning. During summer, the couple run trips in partnership with the World Wildlife Fund. Ivica is probably right when he says they are more play than work, but they also protect fish against overfishing — the fund compensates him for earnings lost by not fishing commercially. It's also a lovely trip. Ivica talks about island life as he hauls up nets in a series of dark-teal bays: a bonito like a silver bullet, scorpionfish, silvery yellow-striped barbona. Then we drop anchor in an empty bay, fire up a griddle and eat: our catch of the day soused in homemade olive oil, with homemade fennel bread, the couple's own wine and rakija brandy. The sea chuckles against the hull. Time unspools. In the haze afterwards, Ivica says a fjaka mood can settle like Valium post-lunch: 'Fresh fish. Wine. Heat. You can do nothing, just sit.' More holidaymakers arrive in Lastovo each year, says Ivica. There's even talk of another hotel. The question is not simply do islanders want more development – do we? Laughably ill-equipped for a conventional holiday, Lastovo poses a singular question about what we seek from a trip away. To relax, many of us might say — but do we even know how? It strikes me that if we embrace fjaka — the delicate art of Dalmatian holidaymaking — we can help preserve Lastovo's purity, even its dark skies. 'Lastovo island is nothing special,' Ivica says with a shrug. 'It's simplicity. It's liberation. To love Lastovo you just need to be.' The boat rocks gently. The cicadas throb. And for long, delicious minutes we lapse into silence. To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only).
