Lhamo La-tso: The sacred Tibetan 'life spirit' lake connected to Goddess Kali

India Today

6 hours ago

Lhamo La-tso, revered in Tibetan tradition older than Buddhism, is believed to be the sacred home of the 'life-spirit' that embodies the soul of individuals and families. This lake, guarded by the goddess Pelden Lhamo, symbolises the lifeforce of Tibet, where any harm to it foretells disaster and suffering for the people connected to this spiritual source.As Keith Dowman writes in his book 'The Power-Places of Central Tibet: The Pilgrim's Guide', it is the Tibetan belief, older than Buddhism, that every individual, every family and an entire country, possesses a life spirit, called a la. This la is embodied in natural phenomena, such as mountains, lakes, trees and so on.advertisementWhen the place of residence of the la is damaged, the individual, family or the nation suffers directly. Thus, when a lake, that is, the home of a la dries up, this omen of death or disaster can inflict the terrible result that is presaged. The "life spirit" of Tibet is identified with Lhamo La-tso (The life-spirit-lake of the goddess), and the goddess is Pelden Lhamo, the Protectress of Tibet, also identified with the Indian goddess Kali.SIGNIFICANCE OF LHAMO LA-TSO
Pilgrimages to Lhamo La-tso are undertaken by Dalai Lamas and regents to seek visions of future events, including details about reincarnations. Situated 5,300 metres above sea level, the lake is part of a significant pilgrimage route featuring temples, prayer flags and breathtaking landscapes. Today, it remains a vital spiritual destination for Tibetans seeking insight into the region's future and personal fortunes.Dowman writes that the specific form of Pelden Lhamo at the sacred lake is Gyelmo Maksorma, and "the victorious one who turns back enemies". "Hence, the lake is also known as Pelden Lhamo Kalidevi, indicating that Pelden Lhamo is none other than Goddess Kali, the shakti (strength) of Lord Shiva's destructive mode. She is also known as Remati," he says.Most of the Dalai Lamas make at least one pilgrimage to Lhamo La-tso, usually after completing their geshe (a Tibetan Buddhist academic degree for monks and nuns) examination and before assuming their functions in the political sphere, to foresee the events of their careers and the manner of their deaths.The powers of the lake also provide detailed knowledge of the place and nature of the Dalai Lama's reincarnation, and Lhamo La-tso was visited by the Regent, whose task it was to search for the infant reincarnation. Even today, pilgrims from all over Tibet visit the lake to gain information about the future of the region and their fortunes.A SPIRITUAL JOURNEYThe pilgrimage to Lhamo La-tso, beginning at Chokorgyel near Chamsing mountain, is a spiritually significant journey through striking natural landscapes. After a three-to four-hour trek past the vivid red Lhamonying mountain, pilgrims reach the glacier-fed Yoni Lake, renowned for its diamond shape and sacred status.advertisementAt 5,300 metres, the ridge above the lake, known as the Dalai Lama's throne, was historically used for divination. Despite challenging terrain, pilgrims perform a korra, a circumambulation around the lake. The route connects to other sacred sites, including Daklha Gampo and Demchok Tso, enriching Tibet's profound spiritual heritage.Dowman says "the path to Lhamo La-tso leaves Chokorgyel on the northern side of the Chamsing mountain, turning north at the base of the red mountain called Lhamonying, which remains as a pregnant vision behind the pilgrim as one walks for three or four hours up the valley to the north"."Halfway along the route is Yoni Lake, a diamond-shaped pond fed by glaciers. At the top of the valley is a sharp cragged ridge upon which is built the Dalai Lama's throne, and from this eminence the divine rulers of Tibet once sat to gaze into the lake 150 metres below, and a kilometre in front, to divine the future," he adds.There was a temple dedicated to Maksorma at the eastern end of the lake and its site is now marked by prayer flags and pilgrims' offerings. The ridge upon which the throne is built is above the snowline for most of the year.advertisementThe stream that drains the lake is an effluent of the Nye Chu. The Nye Valley, passing Daklha Gampo, descends to Tsangpo, which can be reached in three days from Lhamo La-tso.A six-to eight-day korra in Dakpo, beginning and ending at Daklha Gampo, includes Lhamo La-tso, a lake sacred to Demchok called Demchok Tso, and twenty-one peaks and lakes belonging to the twenty-one forms of Drolma. One of these lakes lies just below the Gyelong La on its western side, Dowman says.- Ends