First look: New food market gathers the best of global street food vendors in one place

Irish Times

14-06-2025

Inside Priory Market in
Tallaght
, with no rent, low risk, and serious talent, immigrant chefs are finally getting the backing they deserve.
'I am who I am because I came from Tallaght,' says
Anna Haugh
, the chef-owner of Myrtle restaurant and The Wee Sister wine bar in London, currently fronting Anna Haugh's Big Irish Food Tour TV show on BBC One. She's back in Ireland next month to launch something Tallaght has never had – a food hall, brewery and roastery all under one roof, run as a social enterprise supporting immigrant communities. For Haugh it's more than a launch – it's personal.
'It's really important to me that we bring fresh energy to Tallaght – businesses, food, culture – all of it,' she says. 'People often focus on the negative. This is something positive. It's great for the newer communities, too – people who didn't live here when I was growing up in Old Bawn.'
For migrant-led and small food businesses, it's the hardest thing to find: a foothold. At Priory Market, which opens to the public on Friday, June 20th, there's no rent, no fitout, just 15 per cent of turnover for access to a unit, utilities and footfall. The project is backed by the Immigrant Investor Programme (now closed). Some €3.6 million was raised from nine Chinese investors; Partas – a long-standing social enterprise based in Tallaght – contributed €400,000 more.
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The model is designed for sustainability, in every sense. It's not just a local experiment – it could be a blueprint for other cities. Profits are reinvested into local jobs, training and community programmes.
'We're not a landlord,' says John Kearns, chief executive of Partas. 'We're a support structure. We don't want to trap people – we want them to grow and move on, if that's their goal. Tenants don't need capital to renovate or fit out kitchens. If someone wants to trial something – or scale it – this is where they can do it.'
Haugh is particularly energised by what the market offers to immigrant communities – both those new to Tallaght and those raising Irish-born children. 'I see these kids who look totally different to me, but sound exactly like I did at their age. They're Irish. And it's beautiful to see their parents' cultures being shared – through food, especially.'
Anna Haugh of Myrtle. Photograph: Andrew Ogilvy
For her, food is more than sustenance; it's a way to build a life. 'Learning about food and cuisine is an important part of cultural exchange. It's how we understand each other. That's what makes Priory Market so exciting – it's not just a business space. It's a way for people to connect, to start small, and to be seen,' she says. 'Hospitality is one of those rare jobs where you can learn a proper skill, and use it to work for someone – or start something yourself, even from your house. It doesn't have to be big jumps or investors. Just doing something you believe in. You can build from that. Maybe even an empire.'
Priory Market takes its name from the nearby St Mary's Priory, one of the most significant early monastic settlements in Ireland. Though the market isn't on the original site, it sits just around the corner from the St Mary's ruins – a Church of Ireland site that includes remnants of the original monastery, The Pale wall, and the site of a Fenian uprising. Plans are in place to introduce a walking tour linking the market to these historic landmarks.
The vendors at Priory Market have been carefully selected – most are family-run – and together span a wide range of cuisines. These include Delhi2Dublin's handmade Indian dishes, Afro-Caribbean flavours from Bless Up, and Venezuelan street food from Flavouritos. Seoul Kitchen brings Korean classics, while El Milagro serves Mexican dishes from a mother-and-son team. Zaira focuses on Lebanese cooking with Brazilian roots, there is fresh pasta from
Buongusto
, Mama's Boy serves Vietnamese banh mi; and Hell Fire Grill centres on fire-cooked meats and plant-based options. Tallaght local, Warren Mahon, offers Asian street food with bold, balanced flavours at Park 27. Coke Lane Pizza – located beside the on-site brewery – rounds out the line-up with wood-fired pizza.
Cochinita pibil tacos from Maribel Pascual and Julian Trejo of El Milagro
Patrizio Di Pietrantonio and Andree Danalache with tagliatelle and meatballs at Buongusto
Warren Mahon of Park 27 with khao soi gai - coconut curry broth served on egg noodles with chicken coriander lime, shallots and chilli oil
Ricardo Solis, head brewer at the Priory Market
Everything at Priory Market must be 100 per cent compostable – packaging is preapproved, and compost bins are placed throughout, with signage to guide proper disposal. 'If everything's compostable, it's easier in the long run – once you get used to it,' says Kearns. 'The goal is to streamline waste, with future plans to mulch on-site and eventually grow herbs and plants using the compost.'
The space itself is a blend of the reclaimed and the purpose-built – salvaged lights, Clancy Barracks bomb doors, and seating designed for flow and comfort. There's a conservatory-style patio, a visible coffee roastery above, and views through to the brewery and wine bar. The market includes co-working kitchens, a private speakeasy room, and a demo/events space upstairs. It's designed as a stepping stone between food trucks and full restaurants – a place for emerging chefs to test, scale, and grow with real support.
Three of the first vendors at Priory Market, Bless Up, Delhi2Dublin and Flavouritos, each represent a different background, a different culture – and a shared ambition: to build something new, on their own terms.
Femi and Margaret Abonde are the husband and wife team behind Bless Up, a modern African-Caribbean food business that first opened in Tallaght's Belgard Square. Their original restaurant gained a loyal following for its bold, home-style cooking – but despite strong demand, the scale and cost of running a full restaurant proved unsustainable. 'It was just taking too much from both of us,' says Femi, who has worked in the hospitality industry for nearly two decades. The pair handed the unit over without financial loss and rethought their business model. Now they're relaunching Bless Up at the market, in a format that's leaner, sharper and more sustainable.
Femi Abonde of Bless Up
'It's the cheapest place to trade,' says Femi. 'You don't have to worry about renovations, maintenance, or heavy overheads. It lets you just focus on the food.'
The couple have refined and streamlined their original menu. They're serving modern takes on traditional west African and Caribbean dishes – jollof rice with boneless chicken, jerk chicken and rice, shawarma-style wraps with African spices, and their signature Blessed Burger made with marinated, 100 per cent chicken thigh. Spice levels are customisable, and everything is made in-house. 'It's a low-cost way of doing food,' says Femi. 'We're using proper equipment, keeping everything in-house, locking in flavour – but without the stress and cost of a full restaurant.'
Beyond the food, they value the collaborative atmosphere Priory Market is creating. 'There's this family feel,' says Margaret. 'Everyone's sharing ideas, helping each other out. We're all here for the same reason – to get our food out there and let people experience what we grew up with.'
Another new tenant is Delhi2Dublin – a family business that's making the leap from weekend markets to a permanent home. Mum, Chandra Shukla, is in the kitchen, her daughter, Aanchal, runs the business, and her son, Ardash, a software engineer, chips in between writing code. They've been doing the rounds: Temple Bar, Moore Street, Merrion Square – hauling gear and prepping from scratch each time, but Priory Market will be their first long-term base.
'Markets are intense,' says Anchal. 'You're setting up gazebos, prepping food, lugging equipment – sometimes for just a two-hour lunch rush. It's a lot. And it's always just been the three of us.'
Staff at the Priory Market
The logistics were punishing – everything had to be cooked offsite and carted in. Rain could wipe out footfall. Generators failed. Storage was limited. Each day was a gamble. Now, for the first time, they have a kitchen of their own – a fixed unit, open seven days a week. 'This is the first time we're hiring staff. Finally, we have space to breathe,' she says. 'We can focus on what we actually want to do: the food.'
And the food is serious. Their menu draws on Chandra's Punjabi-Delhi heritage but stretches across India – from Mumbai street snacks to Himalayan-style momos. There are samosas served with home-made coriander and tamarind chutneys; vada pav, a spiced potato burger from Maharashtra; panipuri, the crisp, liquid-filled snack beloved on TikTok; and momo dumplings that are hand-folded and steamed or fried to order. Their mains include rich curry bowls with meat and vegan options, and on some days, Chandra's signature parathas.
'The parathas were our first big hit,' says Ardash. 'Those are Mum's special. When she's in the kitchen, they're on. She rolls them by hand, fills them, fries them fresh – and it brings people straight back to childhood. We've had Indian students video-calling their mothers from the stall, saying 'Look! Real food!''
They've refined their offering down to 13 items – a challenge in itself for a cuisine known for range. They're careful to strike a balance: traditional enough to hit home with Indian customers (who they say are the toughest critics), but accessible for Irish diners who might be wary of spice. 'Irish customers are asking us for extra fried chillies now,' laughs Ardash. 'Two years ago, they'd ask, 'Is this very spicy?' Now they're like, 'Make it hotter.''
Marian Garcia of Flavouritos with pastelitos (crispy pockets filled with Irish potatoes and cheese); and tequeños (cheese fingers with a sweet twist)
Across the way from them is Flavouritos – bringing something totally different to the mix, and something that's just as rooted in family. Marian Garcia Vivolo, the chef behind Flavouritos, is originally from Venezuela and has lived in Ireland for six years. She started out doing catering and food development with her sister, but now, her focus is on bringing bold, flavour-rich Latin American street food to Dublin. Garcia Vivolo has traded before, but Priory Market is her first kitchen with four walls and a steady crowd.
Her food is rooted in Venezuelan tradition, but it's been carefully reworked to suit Irish palates. This is intentional – what Garcia Vivolo calls a kind of 'Lat-Irish' cuisine. 'I'm not copying the exact dishes from home – I'm adapting them. It's really difficult to imitate my flavours because we use tiny peppers that only grow in that part of Venezuela, and condiments that you can only get there. I want to elevate Latin flavours with what's available here. Everything I serve is made with locally sourced Irish ingredients.'
The menu at Flavouritos is compact but punchy. Snacks like tequeños and pasteles – crisp, hand-held, and deeply savoury – are perfect as finger food, loaded with flavour, not heat. 'We're not spicy. We're just full of flavour – garlic, herbs, onions, tomatoes, peppers. Nothing overwhelming, just really tasty,' says Garcia Vivolo.
The main event, though, is the arepa – a traditional Venezuelan and Colombian dish made with corn dough. Naturally gluten-free, arepas are like a hand-held, stuffed flatbread, and Garcia Vivolo is using them to showcase a wide range of fillings. There are five options: one vegan, one vegetarian, and three meat-based (chicken, pork, and beef), all seasoned with her signature Venezuelan-Latin style. She also makes her own sauces: garlic mayo, chipotle mayo, and salsas to match.
'It's food that feels different – familiar but new. I want people to try it and say, 'I've never had this before, but I like it.' That's the goal.'
What makes Priory Market different, she says, is the space and the support. For the first time, she can cook and serve hot food straight to the public – and stay open every day. 'This is exposure – finally. It's a chance to show what Latin American food can be here, on our terms, with real flavour and real heart. I'm putting it on the map. This is just the beginning.'
Priory Market in Tallaght will be open to the public seven days a week from Friday, June 20th, 11am-11pm, with a coffee shop from 8am.
priorymarket.ie