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First look: New food market gathers the best of global street food vendors in one place
First look: New food market gathers the best of global street food vendors in one place

Irish Times

time14-06-2025

  • Business
  • Irish Times

First look: New food market gathers the best of global street food vendors in one place

Inside Priory Market in Tallaght , with no rent, low risk, and serious talent, immigrant chefs are finally getting the backing they deserve. 'I am who I am because I came from Tallaght,' says Anna Haugh , the chef-owner of Myrtle restaurant and The Wee Sister wine bar in London, currently fronting Anna Haugh's Big Irish Food Tour TV show on BBC One. She's back in Ireland next month to launch something Tallaght has never had – a food hall, brewery and roastery all under one roof, run as a social enterprise supporting immigrant communities. For Haugh it's more than a launch – it's personal. 'It's really important to me that we bring fresh energy to Tallaght – businesses, food, culture – all of it,' she says. 'People often focus on the negative. This is something positive. It's great for the newer communities, too – people who didn't live here when I was growing up in Old Bawn.' For migrant-led and small food businesses, it's the hardest thing to find: a foothold. At Priory Market, which opens to the public on Friday, June 20th, there's no rent, no fitout, just 15 per cent of turnover for access to a unit, utilities and footfall. The project is backed by the Immigrant Investor Programme (now closed). Some €3.6 million was raised from nine Chinese investors; Partas – a long-standing social enterprise based in Tallaght – contributed €400,000 more. READ MORE The model is designed for sustainability, in every sense. It's not just a local experiment – it could be a blueprint for other cities. Profits are reinvested into local jobs, training and community programmes. 'We're not a landlord,' says John Kearns, chief executive of Partas. 'We're a support structure. We don't want to trap people – we want them to grow and move on, if that's their goal. Tenants don't need capital to renovate or fit out kitchens. If someone wants to trial something – or scale it – this is where they can do it.' Haugh is particularly energised by what the market offers to immigrant communities – both those new to Tallaght and those raising Irish-born children. 'I see these kids who look totally different to me, but sound exactly like I did at their age. They're Irish. And it's beautiful to see their parents' cultures being shared – through food, especially.' Anna Haugh of Myrtle. Photograph: Andrew Ogilvy For her, food is more than sustenance; it's a way to build a life. 'Learning about food and cuisine is an important part of cultural exchange. It's how we understand each other. That's what makes Priory Market so exciting – it's not just a business space. It's a way for people to connect, to start small, and to be seen,' she says. 'Hospitality is one of those rare jobs where you can learn a proper skill, and use it to work for someone – or start something yourself, even from your house. It doesn't have to be big jumps or investors. Just doing something you believe in. You can build from that. Maybe even an empire.' Priory Market takes its name from the nearby St Mary's Priory, one of the most significant early monastic settlements in Ireland. Though the market isn't on the original site, it sits just around the corner from the St Mary's ruins – a Church of Ireland site that includes remnants of the original monastery, The Pale wall, and the site of a Fenian uprising. Plans are in place to introduce a walking tour linking the market to these historic landmarks. The vendors at Priory Market have been carefully selected – most are family-run – and together span a wide range of cuisines. These include Delhi2Dublin's handmade Indian dishes, Afro-Caribbean flavours from Bless Up, and Venezuelan street food from Flavouritos. Seoul Kitchen brings Korean classics, while El Milagro serves Mexican dishes from a mother-and-son team. Zaira focuses on Lebanese cooking with Brazilian roots, there is fresh pasta from Buongusto , Mama's Boy serves Vietnamese banh mi; and Hell Fire Grill centres on fire-cooked meats and plant-based options. Tallaght local, Warren Mahon, offers Asian street food with bold, balanced flavours at Park 27. Coke Lane Pizza – located beside the on-site brewery – rounds out the line-up with wood-fired pizza. Cochinita pibil tacos from Maribel Pascual and Julian Trejo of El Milagro Patrizio Di Pietrantonio and Andree Danalache with tagliatelle and meatballs at Buongusto Warren Mahon of Park 27 with khao soi gai - coconut curry broth served on egg noodles with chicken coriander lime, shallots and chilli oil Ricardo Solis, head brewer at the Priory Market Everything at Priory Market must be 100 per cent compostable – packaging is preapproved, and compost bins are placed throughout, with signage to guide proper disposal. 'If everything's compostable, it's easier in the long run – once you get used to it,' says Kearns. 'The goal is to streamline waste, with future plans to mulch on-site and eventually grow herbs and plants using the compost.' The space itself is a blend of the reclaimed and the purpose-built – salvaged lights, Clancy Barracks bomb doors, and seating designed for flow and comfort. There's a conservatory-style patio, a visible coffee roastery above, and views through to the brewery and wine bar. The market includes co-working kitchens, a private speakeasy room, and a demo/events space upstairs. It's designed as a stepping stone between food trucks and full restaurants – a place for emerging chefs to test, scale, and grow with real support. Three of the first vendors at Priory Market, Bless Up, Delhi2Dublin and Flavouritos, each represent a different background, a different culture – and a shared ambition: to build something new, on their own terms. Femi and Margaret Abonde are the husband and wife team behind Bless Up, a modern African-Caribbean food business that first opened in Tallaght's Belgard Square. Their original restaurant gained a loyal following for its bold, home-style cooking – but despite strong demand, the scale and cost of running a full restaurant proved unsustainable. 'It was just taking too much from both of us,' says Femi, who has worked in the hospitality industry for nearly two decades. The pair handed the unit over without financial loss and rethought their business model. Now they're relaunching Bless Up at the market, in a format that's leaner, sharper and more sustainable. Femi Abonde of Bless Up 'It's the cheapest place to trade,' says Femi. 'You don't have to worry about renovations, maintenance, or heavy overheads. It lets you just focus on the food.' The couple have refined and streamlined their original menu. They're serving modern takes on traditional west African and Caribbean dishes – jollof rice with boneless chicken, jerk chicken and rice, shawarma-style wraps with African spices, and their signature Blessed Burger made with marinated, 100 per cent chicken thigh. Spice levels are customisable, and everything is made in-house. 'It's a low-cost way of doing food,' says Femi. 'We're using proper equipment, keeping everything in-house, locking in flavour – but without the stress and cost of a full restaurant.' Beyond the food, they value the collaborative atmosphere Priory Market is creating. 'There's this family feel,' says Margaret. 'Everyone's sharing ideas, helping each other out. We're all here for the same reason – to get our food out there and let people experience what we grew up with.' Another new tenant is Delhi2Dublin – a family business that's making the leap from weekend markets to a permanent home. Mum, Chandra Shukla, is in the kitchen, her daughter, Aanchal, runs the business, and her son, Ardash, a software engineer, chips in between writing code. They've been doing the rounds: Temple Bar, Moore Street, Merrion Square – hauling gear and prepping from scratch each time, but Priory Market will be their first long-term base. 'Markets are intense,' says Anchal. 'You're setting up gazebos, prepping food, lugging equipment – sometimes for just a two-hour lunch rush. It's a lot. And it's always just been the three of us.' Staff at the Priory Market The logistics were punishing – everything had to be cooked offsite and carted in. Rain could wipe out footfall. Generators failed. Storage was limited. Each day was a gamble. Now, for the first time, they have a kitchen of their own – a fixed unit, open seven days a week. 'This is the first time we're hiring staff. Finally, we have space to breathe,' she says. 'We can focus on what we actually want to do: the food.' And the food is serious. Their menu draws on Chandra's Punjabi-Delhi heritage but stretches across India – from Mumbai street snacks to Himalayan-style momos. There are samosas served with home-made coriander and tamarind chutneys; vada pav, a spiced potato burger from Maharashtra; panipuri, the crisp, liquid-filled snack beloved on TikTok; and momo dumplings that are hand-folded and steamed or fried to order. Their mains include rich curry bowls with meat and vegan options, and on some days, Chandra's signature parathas. 'The parathas were our first big hit,' says Ardash. 'Those are Mum's special. When she's in the kitchen, they're on. She rolls them by hand, fills them, fries them fresh – and it brings people straight back to childhood. We've had Indian students video-calling their mothers from the stall, saying 'Look! Real food!'' They've refined their offering down to 13 items – a challenge in itself for a cuisine known for range. They're careful to strike a balance: traditional enough to hit home with Indian customers (who they say are the toughest critics), but accessible for Irish diners who might be wary of spice. 'Irish customers are asking us for extra fried chillies now,' laughs Ardash. 'Two years ago, they'd ask, 'Is this very spicy?' Now they're like, 'Make it hotter.'' Marian Garcia of Flavouritos with pastelitos (crispy pockets filled with Irish potatoes and cheese); and tequeños (cheese fingers with a sweet twist) Across the way from them is Flavouritos – bringing something totally different to the mix, and something that's just as rooted in family. Marian Garcia Vivolo, the chef behind Flavouritos, is originally from Venezuela and has lived in Ireland for six years. She started out doing catering and food development with her sister, but now, her focus is on bringing bold, flavour-rich Latin American street food to Dublin. Garcia Vivolo has traded before, but Priory Market is her first kitchen with four walls and a steady crowd. Her food is rooted in Venezuelan tradition, but it's been carefully reworked to suit Irish palates. This is intentional – what Garcia Vivolo calls a kind of 'Lat-Irish' cuisine. 'I'm not copying the exact dishes from home – I'm adapting them. It's really difficult to imitate my flavours because we use tiny peppers that only grow in that part of Venezuela, and condiments that you can only get there. I want to elevate Latin flavours with what's available here. Everything I serve is made with locally sourced Irish ingredients.' The menu at Flavouritos is compact but punchy. Snacks like tequeños and pasteles – crisp, hand-held, and deeply savoury – are perfect as finger food, loaded with flavour, not heat. 'We're not spicy. We're just full of flavour – garlic, herbs, onions, tomatoes, peppers. Nothing overwhelming, just really tasty,' says Garcia Vivolo. The main event, though, is the arepa – a traditional Venezuelan and Colombian dish made with corn dough. Naturally gluten-free, arepas are like a hand-held, stuffed flatbread, and Garcia Vivolo is using them to showcase a wide range of fillings. There are five options: one vegan, one vegetarian, and three meat-based (chicken, pork, and beef), all seasoned with her signature Venezuelan-Latin style. She also makes her own sauces: garlic mayo, chipotle mayo, and salsas to match. 'It's food that feels different – familiar but new. I want people to try it and say, 'I've never had this before, but I like it.' That's the goal.' What makes Priory Market different, she says, is the space and the support. For the first time, she can cook and serve hot food straight to the public – and stay open every day. 'This is exposure – finally. It's a chance to show what Latin American food can be here, on our terms, with real flavour and real heart. I'm putting it on the map. This is just the beginning.' Priory Market in Tallaght will be open to the public seven days a week from Friday, June 20th, 11am-11pm, with a coffee shop from 8am.

Meet the Irish chefs making waves in top London restaurants
Meet the Irish chefs making waves in top London restaurants

Irish Examiner

time31-05-2025

  • Entertainment
  • Irish Examiner

Meet the Irish chefs making waves in top London restaurants

We all know London is a culinary powerhouse and one to watch when it comes to what's hot in food. Do you know what's hot there right now? Ireland. Irish food, Irish pubs, Irish cooking. And it's no wonder when there has always been a constant stream of chefs making the pilgrimage over the water to sharpen their skills. Some chefs do their time and head home and we're all the better for it. Kevin Burke returned and opened Library Street; Niall Davidson came back and launched Allta; and, more recently, Adam Nevin returned to his home town of Maynooth, earning the first Michelin star for Carton House. Then there are the chefs who put down roots in London and become an intrinsic part of the food scene, led by the formidable Richard Corrigan, who's been the flag bearer for Irish cuisine in his restaurants and on British TV screens for decades. There are plenty following in his footsteps, most notably Anna Haugh, who runs Myrtle, a contemporary Irish restaurant in Chelsea, and has become a familiar face on the BBC, and Dubliner Robin Gill, with his expanding group of brilliant restaurants across the city. Anna Haugh of Myrtle In fact, there are so many significant Irish names in the hospitality game that each year one of London's top restaurant websites, Hot Dinners, publishes the Murphia list, highlighting the 50 most influential Irish people in the food scene in the city. Corrigan, Haugh, and Gill are always in the mix along with other stalwarts such as Antrim-born Clare Smyth, one of the most accomplished chefs in Britain, Kerry man Kenneth Culhane, the head chef at Michelin-starred The Dysart Petersham, Corkonian Dee Rettali, of Fortitude Bakehouse, and Dubliner Nick Fitzgerald, chef-owner of Tacos Padre in the famous Borough Market. Newer additions include Tipperary native Christine Walsh, who's now the head chef at Chishuru, a West African Michelin-starred restaurant, and Paddy Maher, who's cooking at the Pearly Queen in east London, where his mashed potato with Guinness and seaweed gravy has been getting rave reviews. Robin Gill at Darby's Speaking of Guinness, the whole of London's Soho seems to have a pint of Guinness in hand since The Devonshire opened its doors in late 2023 under the watchful eye of pub landlord and Sligo man Oisín Rogers. It joins a long list of Irish hospitality stories making noise in London. In 2021, chef Max Rocha opened Café Cecilia in east London and quickly garnered a cult following, becoming the darling of the fashion and foodie crowds. Then there's the Yellow Bittern on Caledonian Rd, a restaurant from Belfast-born Hugh Corcoran and his partner Frances Armstrong-Jones that got every food critic scribbling an opinion on their purposefully anachronistic approach to doing things, only taking bookings by phone and only accepting cash payments. At the other end of the spectrum is the upscale Marylebone bistro Lita, which made headlines partly because of its pricey menu but more recently because they gained a Michelin star within a year of opening. Guess where head chef Luke Ahearne is from? Tipperary. Gone are the days, it seems, when finding something Irish in London meant a grotty pub and a pack of Tayto. Christine Walsh Christine Walsh of Chishuru Christine, originally from Tipperary, gained recognition while cooking in Galway at Loam and then Éan. She moved to London three years ago and is now the head chef at Chishuru, a modern West African, one-star Michelin restaurant in Fitzrovia. Irish ingredients: We use a lot of Irish protein — lamb and beef. Not intentional but we source the best fish at the most sustainable time for fishing it, and it often comes from the Irish Sea, which I love. Irish spots in London: Brendan The Navigator in Highgate. They host huge trad sessions on Sundays. For a pint, The Winchester on Archway Rd (my local), The Lamb on Holloway Rd, or The George in Fitzrovia. Favourite thing about London: The diversity of food and culture. Middle Eastern food and hospitality are beyond some of the best you'll find and so, so reasonably priced. For Turkish, I go to an ocakbasi grill in Green Lanes called Hala. For Palestinian, I love Akub in Notting Hill. Homesick for: The sausages in my local butcher, O'Dwyer's in Killenaule, Tipperary. My dad has them stocked in the fridge when I come home. Luke Ahearne Luke Ahearne of Lita Luke is the head chef at Michelin-starred Lita in Marylebone. He grew up in Clonmel, Co Tipperary, and moved to London at 23, honing his skills at The Clove Club, Luca, and later as head chef at Corrigan's Mayfair. Irish ingredients: My menu is very much south Mediterranean focused but my cooking is very seasonal and produce-driven so prime Irish produce does make an appearance on the menu. At the moment, I use Irish beef and Irish butter. Irish spots: The Devonshire and Homeboy in Islington, for sure. Any Richard Corrigan restaurant is always a good bet. Darby's by Robin Gill. In East London, Molly Bloom's for a pint. Favourite London food: There are great, diverse food markets. I love eating Turkish food in Dalston and, for pizza, Gordos Pizzeria, and also Crisp W6 at The Chancellors. Homesick for: I miss Tayto crisps — they always come back in the suitcase with me. Patrick Powell Patrick Powell of The Knave of Clubs Hailing from Killala, Co Mayo, Patrick has been cooking in some of London's top restaurants for over 14 years, having previously worked in Ireland and Australia. He is culinary director for East End pub The Knave of Clubs and adjoining restaurant One Club Row. Irish ingredients: I use a lot of Irish oysters, brought in by Simon Lamont. They are exceptional. Irish influence: I like to cook stuff that's quite comforting and generous and I think a lot of that stems from Irish hospitality. Irish pubs: Nancy Spains, a new pub done up like an old pub. Doesn't serve Guinness, only Murphy's, which is interesting. I like the Auld Shillelagh. We were hoping to get Beamish into our new pub but I'm not sure we can get it. Homesick for: My big one is always Hunky Dorys. I get my mum or sisters to bring them over. The Irish Dairy Milks are better too. You don't get Golden Crisp or Mint Crisp here. Beth O'Brien Beth O'Brien Dublin-born Beth has been in London for nine months working on a new opening in west London called The Fat Badger, where she will be the sous chef. In Ireland, she worked at Ballymaloe House and made a name for herself by sharing recipe tests on her Instagram page @bethcooksthings. Irish influence: I make soda bread quite regularly, which is quite similar to my mum's brown bread. I also incorporate some elements in the dessert menu that are inspired by my childhood, like the marmalade steamed pudding. Irish spots: Cafe Cecilia in Hackney and Fortitude Bakery in Bloomsbury. My local, Angie's in Westbourne Park, is my favourite place (and the cheapest I've found) for a pint. Favourite food in London: The bacon maple pastry at Pophams, pain au choc at Layla, morning bun at Fortitude, bacon sandwich at The Devonshire, tortilla txistorra at Sabor, and pasta at Canteen. Homesick for: I miss a good, consistent pint of Guinness. I can get most of the Irish food I love in London, so the only thing I bring back regularly is stoneground wholemeal flour, which is quite difficult to find in the UK. Diarmuid Goodwin Diarmuid Goodwin Diarmuid grew up just outside Belfast and has been cooking in London for well over a decade, training with Angela Hartnett and then heading up some of the city's favourite restaurants. He's currently freelancing and focusing on pop-up events and residencies. Irish influence: I've been leaning more into this recently, which I'm finding incredibly fulfilling. Roast skate wing with smoked eel peppercorn sauce and colcannon has become a bit of a signature dish for me. Irish pub: You can't beat the Auld Shillelagh, one of my favourite Irish bars in London — they've a very good pint of Guinness. Favourite thing about London: The endless food and drink places. Every week, a new place opens. London is full of incredibly talented and creative people. It's a melting pot of so many different people and cultures, especially restaurants, and it's really beautiful to be immersed in this. Homesick for: Veda bread, with mountains of butter, and Harp Ice on draught. Five signature Irish dishes to try in London Chicken fillet roll at Inis Chicken fillet roll at Inis 13 Rookwood Way, Fish Island, E3 2XT, This East London restaurant has plenty of Irish influence on its modern, seasonal menu and the lunchtime chicken fillet roll has become a fast favourite for locals. Guinness and oysters at Darby's 3 Viaduct Gardens, Nine Elms, SW11 7AY, Darby's may be Robin Gill's New York-inspired spot but this pairing is purely Irish. Don't miss their great value oyster happy hour. Shpuds n' butter at Shankey's 221 Well St, E9 6RG. At this Irish-Indian restaurant and bar, there is lots to love including an epic cocktail list featuring the unique Shpuds n' Butter made with Kerrygold washed Ban Poitín. Guinness bread at Café Cecilia 32 Andrews Road, Hackney, E8 4FX, Chef Max Rocha cites his Guinness bread as the backbone of Café Cecilia. Every meal begins and ends with it from the bread plate when you first sit to the Guinness bread ice cream for dessert. Beef stuffed boxty at Myrtle 1a Langton Street, Chelsea. SW10 0JL The menu at Anna Haugh's contemporary Irish restaurant changes seasonally but you'll always find a version of her famous boxty stuffed with braised Irish beef.

TV chef Anna Haugh felt right at home on NI food tour: ‘I'd never been to Belfast... it felt unique'
TV chef Anna Haugh felt right at home on NI food tour: ‘I'd never been to Belfast... it felt unique'

Belfast Telegraph

time11-05-2025

  • Entertainment
  • Belfast Telegraph

TV chef Anna Haugh felt right at home on NI food tour: ‘I'd never been to Belfast... it felt unique'

Restaurateur joined by Carl Frampton, Ian McElhinney and more as food tour heads north Chef Anna Haugh felt like she was 'coming home' when she landed in Belfast to film a new TV show despite never having visited before. The 44-year-old visited the city as part of her new BBC TV series Anna Haugh's Big Irish Food Tour, teaming up with local celebs.

Anna Haugh's Big Irish Food Tour is coming to BBC Two
Anna Haugh's Big Irish Food Tour is coming to BBC Two

BBC News

time28-04-2025

  • Entertainment
  • BBC News

Anna Haugh's Big Irish Food Tour is coming to BBC Two

In this 15-part series, starting on Monday 5 May on BBC Two, Anna Haugh travels around the island of Ireland, exploring all that is unique, and new, about Irish cuisine and culture. From Ballycastle in County Antrim to Cork city, Anna is joined by celebrity guests including Katherine Ryan, Dennis Taylor, Ed Byrne, Shayne Ward, Laura Whitmore and Vanessa Feltz, who share their own Irish food memories and don their aprons to help her prepare a special meal. On this culinary journey around the island Anna and her guest meet local food producers and sample an array of local ingredients and flavours. Anna says: 'Irish food is my passion and it's a passion that took me from Dublin to London to pursue my dreams. 'Throughout this series, viewers can look forward to lots of delicious, inspiring food ingredients, wonderful recipes and great chats with my celebrity guests and food producers.' In the first episode, Katherine Ryan joins Anna in the city of Cork – the 'foodie capital of Ireland' - where memories of her grandmother's 'over-boiled and under-seasoned' dinners have left the comedian with a bad impression of Irish food. In episode two snooker legend Dennis Taylor returns to the snooker hall in County Tyrone where it all began and after a spot of fishing, Anna and Dennis do some outdoor cooking with one of the area's most unique delicacies - the Lough Neagh eel. Later in the series, in her native Dublin, Anna meets actor Eilish O'Carroll from Mrs Brown's Boys in an area of the city where traditional markets mix with global street food, and in County Antrim she visits a Ballycastle farm with garden designer Diarmuid Gavin. The pair are put to work during potato planting season, and Anna later creates a goat hotpot for Diarmuid using these local spuds. Far from the bright lights of London, Anna explores the rugged landscape of County Mayo with presenter Angela Scanlon and travels to Portrush on the north coast to meet actor Ian McElhinney. In the seaside town, Ian reminisces about childhood holidays spent enjoying dulse, a local seaweed snack. Other well-known faces joining Anna on her tour include, presenter Vanessa Feltz, Father Ted actor Pauline McLynn, wildlife broadcaster Liz Bonnin, rugby legend Bundee Aki and The Saturdays popstar Una Healy. Anna's journey comes to an end with singer and actor Shayne Ward in County Louth. Shayne is keen to connect with his Irish Traveller heritage and Anna introduces him to one of Ireland's last surviving tinsmiths. They also visit a local farm where Shayne gets his hands dirty picking cabbage. Anna Haugh's Big Irish Food Tour was commissioned for BBC Daytime and BBC Northern Ireland as part of the Hot House Initiative with support from Northern Ireland Screen. The series, made by Below The Radar TV, starts on Monday 5 May and airs weekdays at 6.30pm on BBC Two. The full series is now available to watch on BBC iPlayer. Watch Anna Haugh's Big Irish Food Tour on BBC iPlayer ML

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