Dishoom is coming to Glasgow: Here's my verdict on the breakfast naan

The Herald Scotland

2 days ago

I'm of the opinion that the beauty of any breakfast rests solely in the eye of the beholder.
Tall stacks of American-style pancakes drowning in a pool of sticky maple syrup could be your idea of early morning bliss, while others would be much more likely to thank you for a spartan serving of smoked fish on wholegrain toast.
There are no wrong answers when it comes to the most important meal of the day, a mantra I repeat to myself while booking in to try one of Dishoom's signature breakfast dishes: The Bacon Naan Roll.
Founded in 2010, this popular chain takes inspiration from the Irani cafes of Mumbai in the 1960s. Their first restaurant opened in Covent Garden and the company now operates 10 sites across the UK between London, Birmingham, Manchester, and Edinburgh.
Pictured: The breakfast menu at Dishoom in Edinburgh (Image: Newsquest)
If you've ever passed by at brunch time on St Andrew Square, you'll likely have witnessed just how busy this city centre spot can get on the weekends.
With planning permission now approved for Nelson Mandela Place in Glasgow, we could soon be about to witness the phenomenon for ourselves further west.
So what are we in for if and when Dishoom does make its move to a new Scottish city?
Even on a Tuesday morning, I'm surprised to find the Edinburgh branch is completely packed. It's unlike me to be organised enough to book, but as I'm shown to the only free table in the entire upstairs dining room, I thank the past version of me who sensed it would be a wise move.
There's a quarter of an hour left to order from the breakfast menu, I'm informed not long after settling in, and I suspect there's little time to turn around these tables before the next lot of diners arrive for the all-day offering. No matter, I know what I'm here for.
And even if this wasn't a mission to see how the breakfast naan compares to a classic Glasgow morning roll, I'd likely have made the same order thanks to a chatty server's recommendation. He appears to know his stuff when it comes to the crowd pleasers, suggesting also the House Chai made with 'comforting and satisfying spice'.
I wonder how many of those he manages to push a day.
Although it's the naan rolls that arguably become synonymous with Dishoom's breakfast offering, the rest of this sizeable menu makes for good reading. Should they go ahead with the Glasgow launch, I'd be tempted to try the Parsi omelette with chopped tomato, onion and green chilli or perhaps a Chole Puri Halwa with chickpeas, semolina, pickles and a puffed-up puri.
Pictured: The Bacon and Egg Naan at Dishoom in Edinburgh (Image: News)
In fact, almost all of the dishes sound more adventurous than my choice of flatbread stuffed with Ramsay of Carluke streaky bacon, runny yolked eggs and chilli jam. The only difference to your regular roll shop order is the naan bread in place of a crispy roll.
But who am I to say no to a gimmick?
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I've barely taken a sip of House Chai (as sweet, spiced and warming as promised) before a plate of food arrives.
I wonder if they might be rushing through the last of the breakfast orders, but judging by the high volume of diners and speed at which floor staff swoop in to clear tables, I reckon this could be par for the course.
Great if you're hungry, less so if you want to get through your meal without being asked if everything is ok at least three times mid-mouthful.
The naan itself doesn't look all that impressive at first, folded over in a neat triangle of blistered dough that conceals the filling, save for a glimpse of egg white that's been lightly frazzled in oil peeking out from the side.
Pictured: A worthy rival to the morning roll (Image: Newsquest)
Once the dough is peeled back, things are a lot more exciting. The yolk is a vivid orange colour, indicating a high-quality egg, something you unfortunately won't always find at a chain spot. The all-important 'pop' is the stuff of a food blogger's dream, leaving the rich, runny liquid to trickle over slices of salty Ayrshire bacon.
Paired with the soft, ever-so-slightly chewy texture of the naan bread, there's absolutely nothing to complain about here.
I'll save that for the sauce pot of chilli jam, which I could take or leave. Had this been a little more fiery than sickly sweet, it would be a knock-out addition to the dish.
There are other menu options that I'd be eager to explore at Dishoom before re-ordering the famous naan. After all, at a hefty £12.50 it's perhaps not all that fair to compare this creation to the humble Glasgow roll.
But this buzzy chain delivers on breakfast, and I sincerely hope they do go ahead with plans to transform a unit that has lain vacant in the city centre for far too long already.
Just do yourself a favour, and remember to book.
Dishoom will open on Nelson Mandela Place in Glasgow city centre on Friday, August 29.