Everyone should have a white Christmas once – this place has my vote
As enchanting as it is, this grand old dame is distinctly Canadian, a testament to the nation's rail history. Built in 1888 by the Canadian Pacific Railway (CPR), it was part of a strategy to boost tourism in the Rockies by creating luxury hotels in scenic spots along the rail line.
'Christmas at the Castle' begins on December 5, with an advent calendar of themed events including everything from campfire experiences to making toffee popsicles in the snow, bedtime stories with Mrs Claus to a private good night visit from Santa.
Forget the Christmas card fantasy. This is a full-speed Polar Express into every storybook, Christmas movie and fairytale you've ever imagined, all wrapped in a bear hug only a Canadian can give.
I enjoy maple cream cocktails beside a fire pit on a rooftop terrace, dine on prime rib Alberta beef in The Vermillion Room restaurant (the resort has 13 places to eat and drink) and soak in a thermal spa amid the snow. I could easily stay cocooned here forever, but an ice walk through Johnston Canyon – one of the signature attractions of Banff National Park – calls.
It's minus 17 degrees. I have cleats strapped to my boots for grip and my new woollen thermal is making me itch like a bear in poison ivy. My progress is more awkward penguin shuffle than confident march. 'You need to show the cleats who's boss,' says our guide Neil Evans from Discover Banff Tours. We haven't even left the car park yet.
We trek for an hour – past rock walls draped with icicles, over snowy bridges, and through a cave-like tunnel – to the 30-metre-tall Upper Falls, frozen in time like a winter masterpiece. At any moment, I half expect a raven to arrive with news of Winterfell.
Back in Banff,the Christmas markets are filled with artisanal products and mulled wine, while the Hot Chocolate Trail leaves me buzzing from a sugar-rush. For this sweet-tooth, the winner is a toss between the toasted coconut hot chocolate served at Mountain Folk Coffee Co and the Bueno Smash at the Uprising Bake Shop. Across town, more than 30 restaurants and cafes are whipping up festive-themed hot chocolates.
The highs continue that evening as I ascend Sulphur Mountain, the Banff Gondola whisking me to the summit to witness 'Nightrise', a dazzling multi-media show of lights, projections and soundscapes. Dinner at Sky Bistro is the icing on top, err, the mountain.
It's under a cloud-free blue sky that I set off from Banff for the 50-minute drive to Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise, the second palace-like railway hotel in the Rockies to be built by the Canadian Pacific Railway.
I've arrived early, but a Christmas miracle means not only is my room ready, but I've been upgraded to a junior lake-view suite. There's even a Christmas tree in my room. There are so many Christmas trees – standing tall in the lobby, sprouting along stairwells, forming festive forests in the hallways – each one dressed to the nines and sparkling like a Swarovski crystal.
I'm torn between spending time in my room, mesmerised by the view of frozen Lake Louise, hiding out in the hotel's antiquarian bookstore or enjoying live music in the ballroom. But it's the lure of high tea in the Fairview Restaurant, with its sweeping views of the saw-toothed Rockies, that wins me over.
Afterwards, I burn off the house-made scones and devilled egg sandwiches with a hike across the frozen lake, the sharp air filling my lungs as I crunch across the ice. Next, it's time for a snow-shoeing tour with a mountain guide, where we explore the hidden trails in the snowy slopes above the lake.
Later in the season, sections are cleared and groomed to create a rink for ice skating and hockey. Complete with an ice bar, it's about as cool as it gets. And then there's the annual Ice Magic festival (a five-day event in late January, complimentary for hotel guests) where blocks of ice are transformed into whimsical sculptures by professional ice carvers. It's almost impossible to reconcile this frozen expanse with the emerald blue lake I've seen on summer postcards.
On the way back from my snow-shoeing tour, I stop to watch a group of small children throwing snowballs – all ruddy cheeks and swaying pompoms – and for a moment, I feel the pull of my own grandchildren back home. I guess it's never too early to start planning the next festive escape.
THE DETAILS
STAY
Fairmont Banff Springs is a landmark hotel in the heart of the Banff National Park. A Fairmont Mountain View King room starts from $C829 ($916) during December.
Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise has 539 rooms and suites, with a Fairmont Mountain View King room starting from $C499 ($551) during December. The hotel is currently undergoing renovations, including a new lakeshore wellness centre due to open mid-September, 2025.
See fairmont.com/banff-springs
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TOUR
Discover Banff Tours offers a four-hour Johnston Canyon ice walk, from $C99 an adult/$C62 a child ($109/68). See banfftours.com
FLY
Air Canada offers direct flights between Sydney and Brisbane to Vancouver with connections to Calgary. See aircanada.com
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Sydney Morning Herald
2 days ago
- Sydney Morning Herald
Everyone should have a white Christmas once – this place has my vote
From Calgary, I board the Brewster Express shuttle (where's the crystal chariot when you need one?) for the 130-kilometre drive along the Trans-Canada Highway to the Fairmont Banff Springs, my luxury home for the next three nights. Rising above the snow-dusted forest like a fantasy castle, its turrets stand stark against the looming mountain backdrop. As enchanting as it is, this grand old dame is distinctly Canadian, a testament to the nation's rail history. Built in 1888 by the Canadian Pacific Railway (CPR), it was part of a strategy to boost tourism in the Rockies by creating luxury hotels in scenic spots along the rail line. 'Christmas at the Castle' begins on December 5, with an advent calendar of themed events including everything from campfire experiences to making toffee popsicles in the snow, bedtime stories with Mrs Claus to a private good night visit from Santa. Forget the Christmas card fantasy. This is a full-speed Polar Express into every storybook, Christmas movie and fairytale you've ever imagined, all wrapped in a bear hug only a Canadian can give. I enjoy maple cream cocktails beside a fire pit on a rooftop terrace, dine on prime rib Alberta beef in The Vermillion Room restaurant (the resort has 13 places to eat and drink) and soak in a thermal spa amid the snow. I could easily stay cocooned here forever, but an ice walk through Johnston Canyon – one of the signature attractions of Banff National Park – calls. It's minus 17 degrees. I have cleats strapped to my boots for grip and my new woollen thermal is making me itch like a bear in poison ivy. My progress is more awkward penguin shuffle than confident march. 'You need to show the cleats who's boss,' says our guide Neil Evans from Discover Banff Tours. We haven't even left the car park yet. We trek for an hour – past rock walls draped with icicles, over snowy bridges, and through a cave-like tunnel – to the 30-metre-tall Upper Falls, frozen in time like a winter masterpiece. At any moment, I half expect a raven to arrive with news of Winterfell. Back in Banff,the Christmas markets are filled with artisanal products and mulled wine, while the Hot Chocolate Trail leaves me buzzing from a sugar-rush. For this sweet-tooth, the winner is a toss between the toasted coconut hot chocolate served at Mountain Folk Coffee Co and the Bueno Smash at the Uprising Bake Shop. Across town, more than 30 restaurants and cafes are whipping up festive-themed hot chocolates. The highs continue that evening as I ascend Sulphur Mountain, the Banff Gondola whisking me to the summit to witness 'Nightrise', a dazzling multi-media show of lights, projections and soundscapes. Dinner at Sky Bistro is the icing on top, err, the mountain. It's under a cloud-free blue sky that I set off from Banff for the 50-minute drive to Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise, the second palace-like railway hotel in the Rockies to be built by the Canadian Pacific Railway. I've arrived early, but a Christmas miracle means not only is my room ready, but I've been upgraded to a junior lake-view suite. There's even a Christmas tree in my room. There are so many Christmas trees – standing tall in the lobby, sprouting along stairwells, forming festive forests in the hallways – each one dressed to the nines and sparkling like a Swarovski crystal. I'm torn between spending time in my room, mesmerised by the view of frozen Lake Louise, hiding out in the hotel's antiquarian bookstore or enjoying live music in the ballroom. But it's the lure of high tea in the Fairview Restaurant, with its sweeping views of the saw-toothed Rockies, that wins me over. Afterwards, I burn off the house-made scones and devilled egg sandwiches with a hike across the frozen lake, the sharp air filling my lungs as I crunch across the ice. Next, it's time for a snow-shoeing tour with a mountain guide, where we explore the hidden trails in the snowy slopes above the lake. Later in the season, sections are cleared and groomed to create a rink for ice skating and hockey. Complete with an ice bar, it's about as cool as it gets. And then there's the annual Ice Magic festival (a five-day event in late January, complimentary for hotel guests) where blocks of ice are transformed into whimsical sculptures by professional ice carvers. It's almost impossible to reconcile this frozen expanse with the emerald blue lake I've seen on summer postcards. On the way back from my snow-shoeing tour, I stop to watch a group of small children throwing snowballs – all ruddy cheeks and swaying pompoms – and for a moment, I feel the pull of my own grandchildren back home. I guess it's never too early to start planning the next festive escape. THE DETAILS STAY Fairmont Banff Springs is a landmark hotel in the heart of the Banff National Park. A Fairmont Mountain View King room starts from $C829 ($916) during December. Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise has 539 rooms and suites, with a Fairmont Mountain View King room starting from $C499 ($551) during December. The hotel is currently undergoing renovations, including a new lakeshore wellness centre due to open mid-September, 2025. See Loading TOUR Discover Banff Tours offers a four-hour Johnston Canyon ice walk, from $C99 an adult/$C62 a child ($109/68). See FLY Air Canada offers direct flights between Sydney and Brisbane to Vancouver with connections to Calgary. See

The Age
2 days ago
- The Age
Everyone should have a white Christmas once – this place has my vote
From Calgary, I board the Brewster Express shuttle (where's the crystal chariot when you need one?) for the 130-kilometre drive along the Trans-Canada Highway to the Fairmont Banff Springs, my luxury home for the next three nights. Rising above the snow-dusted forest like a fantasy castle, its turrets stand stark against the looming mountain backdrop. As enchanting as it is, this grand old dame is distinctly Canadian, a testament to the nation's rail history. Built in 1888 by the Canadian Pacific Railway (CPR), it was part of a strategy to boost tourism in the Rockies by creating luxury hotels in scenic spots along the rail line. 'Christmas at the Castle' begins on December 5, with an advent calendar of themed events including everything from campfire experiences to making toffee popsicles in the snow, bedtime stories with Mrs Claus to a private good night visit from Santa. Forget the Christmas card fantasy. This is a full-speed Polar Express into every storybook, Christmas movie and fairytale you've ever imagined, all wrapped in a bear hug only a Canadian can give. I enjoy maple cream cocktails beside a fire pit on a rooftop terrace, dine on prime rib Alberta beef in The Vermillion Room restaurant (the resort has 13 places to eat and drink) and soak in a thermal spa amid the snow. I could easily stay cocooned here forever, but an ice walk through Johnston Canyon – one of the signature attractions of Banff National Park – calls. It's minus 17 degrees. I have cleats strapped to my boots for grip and my new woollen thermal is making me itch like a bear in poison ivy. My progress is more awkward penguin shuffle than confident march. 'You need to show the cleats who's boss,' says our guide Neil Evans from Discover Banff Tours. We haven't even left the car park yet. We trek for an hour – past rock walls draped with icicles, over snowy bridges, and through a cave-like tunnel – to the 30-metre-tall Upper Falls, frozen in time like a winter masterpiece. At any moment, I half expect a raven to arrive with news of Winterfell. Back in Banff,the Christmas markets are filled with artisanal products and mulled wine, while the Hot Chocolate Trail leaves me buzzing from a sugar-rush. For this sweet-tooth, the winner is a toss between the toasted coconut hot chocolate served at Mountain Folk Coffee Co and the Bueno Smash at the Uprising Bake Shop. Across town, more than 30 restaurants and cafes are whipping up festive-themed hot chocolates. The highs continue that evening as I ascend Sulphur Mountain, the Banff Gondola whisking me to the summit to witness 'Nightrise', a dazzling multi-media show of lights, projections and soundscapes. Dinner at Sky Bistro is the icing on top, err, the mountain. It's under a cloud-free blue sky that I set off from Banff for the 50-minute drive to Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise, the second palace-like railway hotel in the Rockies to be built by the Canadian Pacific Railway. I've arrived early, but a Christmas miracle means not only is my room ready, but I've been upgraded to a junior lake-view suite. There's even a Christmas tree in my room. There are so many Christmas trees – standing tall in the lobby, sprouting along stairwells, forming festive forests in the hallways – each one dressed to the nines and sparkling like a Swarovski crystal. I'm torn between spending time in my room, mesmerised by the view of frozen Lake Louise, hiding out in the hotel's antiquarian bookstore or enjoying live music in the ballroom. But it's the lure of high tea in the Fairview Restaurant, with its sweeping views of the saw-toothed Rockies, that wins me over. Afterwards, I burn off the house-made scones and devilled egg sandwiches with a hike across the frozen lake, the sharp air filling my lungs as I crunch across the ice. Next, it's time for a snow-shoeing tour with a mountain guide, where we explore the hidden trails in the snowy slopes above the lake. Later in the season, sections are cleared and groomed to create a rink for ice skating and hockey. Complete with an ice bar, it's about as cool as it gets. And then there's the annual Ice Magic festival (a five-day event in late January, complimentary for hotel guests) where blocks of ice are transformed into whimsical sculptures by professional ice carvers. It's almost impossible to reconcile this frozen expanse with the emerald blue lake I've seen on summer postcards. On the way back from my snow-shoeing tour, I stop to watch a group of small children throwing snowballs – all ruddy cheeks and swaying pompoms – and for a moment, I feel the pull of my own grandchildren back home. I guess it's never too early to start planning the next festive escape. THE DETAILS STAY Fairmont Banff Springs is a landmark hotel in the heart of the Banff National Park. A Fairmont Mountain View King room starts from $C829 ($916) during December. Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise has 539 rooms and suites, with a Fairmont Mountain View King room starting from $C499 ($551) during December. The hotel is currently undergoing renovations, including a new lakeshore wellness centre due to open mid-September, 2025. See Loading TOUR Discover Banff Tours offers a four-hour Johnston Canyon ice walk, from $C99 an adult/$C62 a child ($109/68). See FLY Air Canada offers direct flights between Sydney and Brisbane to Vancouver with connections to Calgary. See


Perth Now
2 days ago
- Perth Now
Bali travellers horrified by items washed up on beaches
Travellers seeking the pristine white sand beaches of Bali have been left horrified by a series of shocking items that have been found washed up on some of the islands most popular beaches. Aussie traveller, Kirsty Grist shared pictures of rubbish washed ashore on Legian and Kuta beaches on the Bali Bogans Facebook page. The pictures included bags of medical waste that she had collected which included syringes. 'Hey everyone, if you are in this area, especially with little ones, please be careful. There is a heap of medical waste washed up on the beach. We have picked up 2 bags worth of syringes … some with needle ends, some without,' she wrote. The post was flooded with comments from fellow travellers, many agreeing that the waste that washes up on Bali's beaches is very unpleasant. Aussie traveller, Kirsty Grist shared pictures of rubbish washed ashore on Legian and Kuta beaches Credit: Facebook 'Yuck. That's disgusting,' one person said. 'We picked a big one up off the beach the other week at Bloo Lagoon, the needle was huge,' another commented. However, others claimed that not all of the syringes were necessarily medical waste and didn't believe the scenes that Grist had captured were real. Kirsty Grist claimed to pick up two bags of syringes from Bali's beaches. Credit: Facebook 'Yeah it was here on beach in Seminyak last night too. Some are alcohol shots (usually larger ones) but some are the real deal. Be careful folks,' someone commented. 'Never seen it, been going to Kuta and Legian for 40 years. Absolute bulls**t,' another said. Regardless of the severity of the latest claims, the pictures expose the ugly truth behind the much-loved Indonesian island. Indonesia is second in the world only to China in terms of its contribution to marine plastic pollution due to poor plastic waste management, according to The worst tides of plastic washing ashore Bali's beaches usually happens during the wet season of October to March. Last Christmas, Bali awoke to a monumental tide of plastic on Jimbaran Beach on December 24; Charity, Sungi Watch, had to call on volunteers for an emergency cleanup event in early January 2025. 'A massive 66,000kg of trash was collected by volunteers between over the Christmas holiday period in 2024,' said the not-for-profit. The waste isn't just from the unregulated rubbish which is deposited in the waters around Bali by shipping vessels, it's added to by the island's open landfills . As they become fuller, they put pressure on local waste management operations. Rubbish is then spilt into waterways and dumped in unofficial landfill sites, often on the edges of some of Bali's most beautiful natural landscapes.