I'm in my 50s and embrace my wrinkles. What is the best type of makeup that won't sink into fine lines?
Dear Proudly Wrinkled, First off: Good for you! I love hearing from women who are celebrating aging over dreading it. Frankly, I'd like to see more of this, especially on social media, where the graphic, omnipresent plastic surgery videos are becoming particularly grim. To my eye, a lined face is beautiful, can be radiant and is. Despite what the "anti-aging" racket will tell you, there's nothing to be afraid of.
However, as you note, older skin does acquire new beauty needs. Namely, as we lose collagen and elastin, our skin becomes drier and more delicate, and our complexions become flatter and less vibrant. There's also often an uneven texture to contend with — fine lines, wrinkles and visible pores — that can make applying any kind of makeup less, let's say, fluid than it was before.
What does all this mean? Well, for starters, the makeup you use today should be adding moisture to your skin, not soaking it up. Unless your skin happens to be extra oily, you should stay away from powders and anything with the word matte to avoid that cakey, creasy, extra-wizened look I'm imagining you've experienced and hated.
From your letter, I'm guessing you are, like me, a fairly low-maintenance person, so I'm not going to try to push a multi-step makeup routine here. But, if I were, I'd tell you that for best results, prep your skin with a moisturizing primer before applying your makeup. Next, create a pool of concealer or foundation on the back of your hand and then stipple it on slowly using a damp cosmetic sponge and a few high-quality makeup brushes designed for different parts of your face. According to makeup pros, these steps, plus a post-application setting spray, will give you a "flawless" finish. But depending on your temperament, it might be too annoying for everyday use. I myself apply my favorite products with my hands like a finger-painting child, so I know it can be done.
Let's just keep things simple. All skin is different, of course, but the best makeup for a face with wrinkles will tend to be lightweight liquid foundations and concealers, especially those that are makeup-skin care hybrids, which offer sheer coverage, won't settle into fine lines and tend to restore a natural-looking glow.
Here are some of my favorites:
Ilia Super Serum Skin Tint SPF 40: I first came upon this lightweight serum, plus foundation, plus sunscreen a few years back on Instagram, and now I wear it most days. It glides on your skin, and the coverage is sheer but just enough to even tone and boost dullness and make me look more awake than I feel.
L'Oreal Paris Age Perfect Radiant Serum Foundation SPF 50: This is a good swap for Ilia at a fraction of the price. The texture is somewhat thicker, and the coverage is a little denser. It's wildly well-reviewed, and though it won't make your skin quite as glowy as the Ilia version, many people prefer a less glowy finish. Also in this price point is e.l.f.'s Halo Glow Liquid Filter, which I haven't tried but has been highly recommended by a few women over 60 I trust.
Keys Soulcare It's Like Skin 2-in-1 Concealer + Tint: I did not know Alicia Keys had a cosmetics line until someone sent me this excellent skin tint and concealer, which has an incredible shade range, really brightens your skin and has a luxurious texture and feel.
Nars Light Reflecting Foundation: If you're willing to splash out price-wise, I have yet to meet a makeup artist who doesn't rave about this light-reflecting foundation from Nars. It's a gorgeous gorgeous product, buildable and smooth and, even at $54, a product many older women say they wouldn't want to live without.
Jones Road What the Foundation: I don't know that I'm legally allowed to talk about makeup for mature skin without mentioning Jones Road, a line that was specially designed with the needs of older women in mind. This particular product is a bit polarizing — it has the texture of a thicker balm or cream and takes a minute to blend. If you're willing to fiddle with it, the all-natural formula really does leave skin looking dewy and bright.
Laura Geller powders and concealers: If you're attached to using a powder formula, Laura Geller is the best game in older-lady makeup town. Her powders are actually baked on terracotta tiles and have an oddly satisfying creamy texture that's not as drying as the powder compacts you used in your youth. While you're there, Geller's under-eye concealers are some of the best I've tried for covering over — and not sinking into — fine lines.
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