Dried bay leaves bring layers of flavor to Portuguese-style beef skewers

Winnipeg Free Press

30-06-2025

On the Portuguese island of Madeira, espetadas are made by threading chunks of beef onto fresh-cut branches of bay and cooking the skewers over the embers of a fire. The bay infuses the meat with its unique menthol notes while also releasing a heady aroma.
In this streamlined take on espatadas from our cookbook ' Milk Street 365: The All-Purpose Cookbook for Every Day of the Year,' we pulverize dried bay leaves in a spice grinder to make a seasoned salt, mix in garlic and olive oil, then use the mixture to season the meat before threading it onto metal skewers and grilling over charcoal or gas.
Though a bit unconventional, we add tomatoes to these skewers and also make a simple Madeira reduction to finish the dish. Seasoned with garlic and some of the bay salt, the glaze-like sauce bolsters the flavors of the beef.
Flat iron steak or beef sirloin tips offer the best combination of tender texture and rich flavor, but if you're up for a splurge, beef tenderloin also is excellent.
Don't use fresh bay leaves in place of dried; they won't grind down into a fine powder. Also, don't trim the beef; bits of fat — what the Portuguese call 'the flower of the espetada'— help with charring and add rich flavor. Finally, don't use top-shelf Madeira here; an inexpensive nonvintage bottle will do just fine.
Espetada-Style Grilled Garlic and Bay Beef Skewers
Start to finish: 45 minutes, plus grill prep
Servings: 4 to 6
Ingredients:
10 dried bay leaves, crumbled
Kosher salt and ground black pepper
6 medium garlic cloves, finely grated (about 1 1/2 tablespoons)
1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
2 pounds beef sirloin tips or flat iron steak, cut into 1 1/2-inch cubes
12 cherry tomatoes
1/2 cup Madeira (see note)
2 tablespoons salted butter, cut into 2 pieces and chilled
Directions:
In a spice grinder, combine the bay, 1 1/2 teaspoons salt and 1 teaspoon pepper, then pulverize to a fine powder. Transfer to a small bowl. In a medium bowl, combine 2 teaspoons of the bay salt, 1 tablespoon of garlic and 1 tablespoon oil, then mash with a fork until combined. Add the beef and toss, rubbing the seasonings into the meat. Thread the beef onto four 10- to 12-inch metal skewers alternating with the tomatoes; set aside.
In a small saucepan over medium, heat the remaining 2 teaspoons oil and the remaining bay salt, stirring, until fragrant and sizzling, about 3 minutes. Add the remaining 1 1/2 teaspoons garlic and cook, stirring, until fragrant and sizzling, about 10 seconds. Add the Madeira and bring to a simmer, then reduce to low and cook, stirring, until reduced to 2 tablespoons. Cover and set aside off heat.
Prepare a charcoal or gas grill. For a charcoal grill, ignite a large chimney of coals, let burn until lightly ashed over, then distribute evenly over one side of the grill bed; open the bottom grill vents. Heat the grill, covered, for 5 to 10 minutes, then clean and oil the grate. For a gas grill, turn all burners to high and heat, covered, for 15 minutes, then clean and oil the grate.
Place the skewers on the hot side of the grill (if using charcoal). Cook, uncovered, until the beef is lightly charred on both sides and the center of the thickest piece reaches 125°F for medium-rare, 10 to 14 minutes total, flipping once about halfway through. Transfer to a platter, tent with foil and let rest while you make the sauce.
Set the pan with the Madeira reduction over medium and heat uncovered just until steaming. Remove from the heat, add the butter and swirl the pan until the butter is melted and the sauce is emulsified. Remove the meat from the skewers and drizzle with the sauce.
EDITOR'S NOTE: For more recipes, go to Christopher Kimball's Milk Street at 177milkstreet.com/ap