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Crème fraîche creates a creamy broth in this recipe for briny-sweet steamed clams
Crème fraîche creates a creamy broth in this recipe for briny-sweet steamed clams

Winnipeg Free Press

time3 days ago

  • General
  • Winnipeg Free Press

Crème fraîche creates a creamy broth in this recipe for briny-sweet steamed clams

A big bowl of steamed clams and juicy-crisp corn is summer eating at its finest. The combination is fresh, sweet and briny, almost like a chowder made for eating with your fingers. In this recipe from our cookbook ' Milk Street 365: The All-Purpose Cookbook for Every Day of the Year,' we finish the clams and corn with a small measure of crème fraîche (or whole-milk yogurt); the briny-sweet liquid released by the clams becomes a subtly creamy broth that's as delicious as the clams themselves. Fennel perfumes the broth with anise-like notes. Scrub the clams well before cooking and be sure to dispose of any with cracked or damaged shells. Give any clams with open shells a gentle tap and toss if they do not close within a few seconds. If you can, use corn kernels cut from freshly shucked ears (you'll need two good-size ears to get the 2 cups kernels called for in the recipe), but frozen corn works in the off-season. When buying corn, look for bright green husks and supple silk, and avoid ears small brown holes in the husk. To easily remove kernels from the cob, place the ear flat on the cutting board and slice, rotating as needed. Serve with oyster crackers, or with crusty bread for mopping up the broth. Steamed Clams with Corn, Fennel and Crème Fraîche Start to finish: 30 minutes Servings: 4 Ingredients: 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 medium fennel bulb, halved, cored and thinly sliced 1 medium yellow onion, halved and thinly sliced 2 teaspoons fennel seeds Kosher salt and ground black pepper 2 cups corn kernels 2 pounds hard-shell clams (about 1 1/2 inches diameter), such as littleneck or Manila, scrubbed 1/4 cup crème fraîche OR plain whole-milk yogurt Directions: In a Dutch oven, heat the oil until shimmering. Add the fennel, onion, fennel seeds and a pinch of salt, then cook, stirring, until the vegetables are lightly browned. Stir in the corn and 1 cup water. Bring to a boil and add the clams. Cover and cook over medium, stirring once or twice, until the clams have opened. Stir once more, then remove and discard any clams that haven't opened. Off heat, stir in the crème fraîche and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Season with salt. Optional garnish: Hot sauce OR chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley OR lemon wedges OR a combination EDITOR'S NOTE: For more recipes, go to Christopher Kimball's Milk Street at

Spicy-sweet gochujang elevates this simple chicken stir-fry
Spicy-sweet gochujang elevates this simple chicken stir-fry

Winnipeg Free Press

time21-07-2025

  • General
  • Winnipeg Free Press

Spicy-sweet gochujang elevates this simple chicken stir-fry

Flavor-packed, spicy-sweet gochujang elevates a couldn't-be-simpler, 30-minute chicken stir-fry. Gochujang is a fermented chili paste used widely in Korean cooking. Made the traditional way, it ferments in clay pots for months or years to create a concentrated paste with tremendous depth and complex chili heat. In this recipe from our cookbook ' Milk Street 365: The All-Purpose Cookbook for Every Day of the Year,' the complexly flavored Korean refrigerator staple is balanced by the pepperiness and pungency of ginger and garlic, plus a splash of salty soy sauce and a spoonful of sugar to round everything out. Many brands of gochujang are available in the U.S., though quality varies widely. When shopping, start by reading the ingredient list. Traditional gochujang should contain little more than gochugaru (red chili flakes), glutinous rice, fermented soybeans and salt. The product's label also should specify its heat level. Cooking the chicken on on each side creates deeply flavorful browning, so resist the urge to flip it more than once or stir it in the pan. Garnish with toasted sesame seeds and scallions. Serve with steamed rice and a chilled beer. Stir-Fried Gochujang Chicken Start to finish: 30 minutes Servings: 4 Ingredients: 1/4 cup gochujang 3 tablespoons soy sauce 1 tablespoon white sugar 3 tablespoons neutral oil 1 1/2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken thighs, trimmed and cut crosswise into thirds 3 medium garlic cloves, finely chopped 3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh ginger Directions: In a small bowl, whisk together the gochujang, soy sauce and sugar; set aside. In a 12-inch skillet over medium-high, heat the oil until shimmering. Add the chicken in an even layer and cook without stirring until browned on the bottom, about 5 minutes. Reduce to medium, then flip the chicken and cook without stirring until browned on the second sides, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the garlic and ginger; cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the gochujang mixture and cook, scraping up any browned bits and occasionally turning the chicken, until the sauce has thickened lightly and coats the chicken, 2 to 3 minutes. Optional garnish: Toasted sesame seeds OR sliced scallions OR both EDITOR'S NOTE: For more recipes, go to Christopher Kimball's Milk Street at

These flavor-packed pork burgers were inspired by Indian street food
These flavor-packed pork burgers were inspired by Indian street food

Winnipeg Free Press

time14-07-2025

  • General
  • Winnipeg Free Press

These flavor-packed pork burgers were inspired by Indian street food

These flavor-packed burgers are a spin on a spiced pork sausage from Goa in southern India, based on the garlicky, European-style chouriço introduced by Portuguese settlers. To combat the humidity of the region and prolong the shelf life of the sausage, the meat is heavily salted and flavored with a mixture of spices and tangy vinegar. Goan sausage is ubiquitous in southern India, where you can find it sold at street food carts and high-end restaurants alike, sometimes baked into a bun or minced and stuffed between layers of fried naan. In this recipe from our cookbook ' Milk Street 365: The All-Purpose Cookbook for Every Day of the Year,' we take inspiration from those burger-like sandwiches, using a combination of grated garlic, garam masala, cumin, paprika and cayenne to give the all-pork patties deep, complex flavor and a rusty hue. Grating the garlic ensures it melts into the meat without any distracting bits. Instead of naan, we use classic hamburger buns. Egg and panko bread crumbs help the patties keep their shape. Don't undermix the pork mixture; be sure to combine it well so the breadcrumbs and seasonings are evenly distributed. These burgers are especially delicious topped with yogurt, torn fresh mint leaves and thin slices of cucumber or tomato. Indian-Spiced Pork Burgers Start to finish: 35 minutes Servings: 4 Ingredients: ⅔ cup panko breadcrumbs 1/4 cup plain whole-milk yogurt, plus more to serve 5 teaspoons garam masala 5 teaspoons sweet paprika 1 tablespoon ground cumin 1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper 2 large egg yolks 2 medium garlic cloves, finely grated Kosher salt and ground black pepper 1 pound ground pork 2 tablespoons grapeseed or other neutral oil Wednesdays Columnist Jen Zoratti looks at what's next in arts, life and pop culture. 4 hamburger buns, toasted Directions: In a large bowl, combine the panko, yogurt, garam masala, paprika, cumin, cayenne, egg yolks, garlic, 3/4 teaspoon salt, 1/2 teaspoon pepper and 1/4 cup water. Using a fork, mash the mixture into a smooth paste. Add the pork and mix with your hands until evenly combined. Form into 4 patties, each about 4 inches in diameter, place on a large plate and refrigerate for 15 minutes. In a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium, heat the oil until barely smoking. Add the burgers and cook until well browned, 7 to 8 minutes. Flip, reduce to medium-low and continue to cook until the patties are well browned on the second sides and the centers reach 160°F, another 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer to a clean plate, tent with foil and let rest for 5 minutes. Serve on the buns with additional yogurt on the side. EDITOR'S NOTE: For more recipes, go to Christopher Kimball's Milk Street at

Savory-spicy peanut dressing complements the sweetness of this tomato salad
Savory-spicy peanut dressing complements the sweetness of this tomato salad

Winnipeg Free Press

time07-07-2025

  • Lifestyle
  • Winnipeg Free Press

Savory-spicy peanut dressing complements the sweetness of this tomato salad

This robustly seasoned, almost meaty tomato salad was inspired by Mexican salsa macha, a savory-spicy condiment made with dried chilies, garlic, nuts and seeds that are fried in oil, then pureed. In this recipe from our cookbook ' Milk Street 365: The All-Purpose Cookbook for Every Day of the Year,' we skip the blender and deconstruct the salsa, adding the ingredients directly to the salad — the fried peanuts and sesame seeds add texture that contrasts beautifully against meaty tomatoes. For an especially colorful salad, use heirloom tomatoes of different hues. You also can combine tomato varieties and sizes for more varied texture and appearance. Salting the tomatoes and letting them stand deepens their flavor and softens them slightly for extra succulence and juiciness. Halve any smaller tomatoes, like grape or cherry, so the salt can season the flesh. When toasting the peanuts and sesame seeds, be sure to use a neutral oil such as grapeseed. Extra-virgin olive oil will lose its flavor when heated to the temperature needed to fry the peanuts. And when salting the tomatoes, kosher salt is best. The large granules distribute more evenly and won't clump the way table salt can when tossed with moist ingredients. Tomato Salad with Peanuts, Cilantro and Chipotle-Sesame Dressing Start to finish: 35 minutes Servings: 4 to 6 Ingredients: 2 tablespoons neutral oil 1/4 cup roasted peanuts 2 tablespoons sesame seeds OR 1 medium garlic clove, thinly sliced OR both 1 chipotle chili in adobo sauce, minced, plus 1 teaspoon adobo sauce 3 tablespoons cider vinegar Kosher salt and ground black pepper 2 pounds ripe tomatoes, cored and cut into 1/2-inch wedges (see headnote) 1 1/2 cups lightly packed fresh cilantro OR basil OR flat-leaf parsley OR a combination, torn if large Directions: In a small saucepan over medium, combine the oil and peanuts. Cook, stirring occasionally, until fragrant and browned, 4 to 6 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the peanuts to a paper towel-lined plate. To the same saucepan over medium, add the sesame seeds. Cook, stirring, until lightly golden, about 2 minutes. Remove from the heat, then stir in the chipotle and adobo sauce, vinegar and 1/4 teaspoon each salt and pepper. Cool to room temperature. Meanwhile, in a serving bowl, toss the tomatoes with 1/2 teaspoon salt; let stand for about 10 minutes. Chop the peanuts. Spoon the chipotle-sesame mixture over the tomatoes. Add the cilantro and peanuts, then stir gently. Taste and season with salt and pepper. Optional garnish: Flaky salt or crumbled cotija cheese or both. EDITOR'S NOTE: For more recipes, go to Christopher Kimball's Milk Street at

Dried bay leaves bring layers of flavor to Portuguese-style beef skewers
Dried bay leaves bring layers of flavor to Portuguese-style beef skewers

Winnipeg Free Press

time30-06-2025

  • General
  • Winnipeg Free Press

Dried bay leaves bring layers of flavor to Portuguese-style beef skewers

On the Portuguese island of Madeira, espetadas are made by threading chunks of beef onto fresh-cut branches of bay and cooking the skewers over the embers of a fire. The bay infuses the meat with its unique menthol notes while also releasing a heady aroma. In this streamlined take on espatadas from our cookbook ' Milk Street 365: The All-Purpose Cookbook for Every Day of the Year,' we pulverize dried bay leaves in a spice grinder to make a seasoned salt, mix in garlic and olive oil, then use the mixture to season the meat before threading it onto metal skewers and grilling over charcoal or gas. Though a bit unconventional, we add tomatoes to these skewers and also make a simple Madeira reduction to finish the dish. Seasoned with garlic and some of the bay salt, the glaze-like sauce bolsters the flavors of the beef. Flat iron steak or beef sirloin tips offer the best combination of tender texture and rich flavor, but if you're up for a splurge, beef tenderloin also is excellent. Don't use fresh bay leaves in place of dried; they won't grind down into a fine powder. Also, don't trim the beef; bits of fat — what the Portuguese call 'the flower of the espetada'— help with charring and add rich flavor. Finally, don't use top-shelf Madeira here; an inexpensive nonvintage bottle will do just fine. Espetada-Style Grilled Garlic and Bay Beef Skewers Start to finish: 45 minutes, plus grill prep Servings: 4 to 6 Ingredients: 10 dried bay leaves, crumbled Kosher salt and ground black pepper 6 medium garlic cloves, finely grated (about 1 1/2 tablespoons) 1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided 2 pounds beef sirloin tips or flat iron steak, cut into 1 1/2-inch cubes 12 cherry tomatoes 1/2 cup Madeira (see note) 2 tablespoons salted butter, cut into 2 pieces and chilled Directions: In a spice grinder, combine the bay, 1 1/2 teaspoons salt and 1 teaspoon pepper, then pulverize to a fine powder. Transfer to a small bowl. In a medium bowl, combine 2 teaspoons of the bay salt, 1 tablespoon of garlic and 1 tablespoon oil, then mash with a fork until combined. Add the beef and toss, rubbing the seasonings into the meat. Thread the beef onto four 10- to 12-inch metal skewers alternating with the tomatoes; set aside. In a small saucepan over medium, heat the remaining 2 teaspoons oil and the remaining bay salt, stirring, until fragrant and sizzling, about 3 minutes. Add the remaining 1 1/2 teaspoons garlic and cook, stirring, until fragrant and sizzling, about 10 seconds. Add the Madeira and bring to a simmer, then reduce to low and cook, stirring, until reduced to 2 tablespoons. Cover and set aside off heat. Prepare a charcoal or gas grill. For a charcoal grill, ignite a large chimney of coals, let burn until lightly ashed over, then distribute evenly over one side of the grill bed; open the bottom grill vents. Heat the grill, covered, for 5 to 10 minutes, then clean and oil the grate. For a gas grill, turn all burners to high and heat, covered, for 15 minutes, then clean and oil the grate. Place the skewers on the hot side of the grill (if using charcoal). Cook, uncovered, until the beef is lightly charred on both sides and the center of the thickest piece reaches 125°F for medium-rare, 10 to 14 minutes total, flipping once about halfway through. Transfer to a platter, tent with foil and let rest while you make the sauce. Set the pan with the Madeira reduction over medium and heat uncovered just until steaming. Remove from the heat, add the butter and swirl the pan until the butter is melted and the sauce is emulsified. Remove the meat from the skewers and drizzle with the sauce. EDITOR'S NOTE: For more recipes, go to Christopher Kimball's Milk Street at

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